allanp

Was the gearbox (transpher case 1) in this pic what you was thinking of?

There appears to be one other difference, in 8421 the cable drum was linked to the boom extention so that is would wind/unwind as the boom retracts/extends. The new one does not appear to do that.

Have to agree with 8109, was not expecting such a fantistic little mechanism. The programmable crane via a plate with gear racks on it is also pretty nifty. I'de also have to agree that for their time, the use of the drive rings in 8880 and 8480 were also awesome although in the case of 8880 a bit over used now. And yes I totally agree with Kumbbl, the 8880 ghear change is by far the best they ever did, no fiddling to change gears required. The sequencing mechanism of the 8868 b-model is also quite ingenious, also it was combined with the (at the time) all new motor compressor as well. I also love the auto reversing cable car from the ideas books and the way the destroyer droid deploys when you roll it.

Sorry legopast, couldn't think of anything else to say!

8049 control center, 8826 back hoe, 8865 test car, 8851 excavator (plus extra complete set of tracks) and 8860 auto chassis, all boxed in great condition all for about 117 euro, or £100 to be exact.

8455 is the mother of all pneumatic sets with 8868 being probably the most coverted. But time is running short for 8110. The previous sets I mentioned have more pneumatics than 8110 however 8110 still has a motor compressor, two large cylinders, one small cylinder, three valves and two pnematic power take-off pieces and is a fantastic set all round so I'de get that whilst you still can direct from Lego for a good price. Edit, forgot to mention non of the above sets have an airtank. The big blue tow truck from 1998 has two, something to consider perhaps.

Nice one, lots of lovely gear trains!

Superb work! The human hand is probably the most beautifully engineered thing there is, nice job recreating it

The 12t doesn't seem to improve things much in terms of slippage, it least for me anyway I haven't tried it much, the 20t doesn't give enough reduction for my taste. Tho I have used it with an 8t alot, works great with that and quite strong as well as having a 3.5:1 reduction.

They work fine in non motorised models, when all they have to do it turn the engine/gearbox (tho modern gearboxes are harder to turn than the older ones). They will also work for small motorised models such as the car from 8082. Used in these applications it works great, the 1:2 gear reduction you get by using a 14t bevel is nicer than the very low reduction you get from the modern diff. However it cannot move much weight. As weak as those 14t bevel gears are the teeth will slip past each other before they break.

Yeah, and I didn't even learn that much from mine other than "everything that I just did, don't do any of that again, ever!"

You need to combine it with this piece: http://rebrickable.com/parts/6543 It only allows up to 4 gears HOWEVER I still much prefer it to the newer version because changing gears is much smoother and easier. With the new one you have to move the stick to neutral, use two fingers to wiggle and slide it over to the next set of driving rings then move it forwards or backwards. The gate does not guide the gear stick into place for you like in a real car, it only prevents you from selecting two gears at once. But with this older one from 8880 it's a much more natural and realistic feeling gear change, just place one fingure on the top and move it to where you want it and it will guide it into place just like a real car.

Awesome!

Unimog is waaaaaaayy better IMHO, not only does it have more life like mechanics for the crane arm with it's onboard compressor and the ability to operate all functions (besides slewing) simultaniously, it also has mechanised and motorised slewing (as opposed to the purely manual one on the crane, no mechanisms there at all) and it also has more lifelike mechanics for the drive train including 4 wheel drive, suspension, 3 diffs, torque tubes, panhard rods and steering, the crane only has steering and 2 wheel drive. The only thing the crane has over the Unimog is the two function outriggers. Besides that the Unimog will be discontinued soon, a couple years before the crane so you would still have time to get that aswell.

This is all possible using 100% Lego. take a boat hull or something similar, fill it with fluid and submerge the motor pump (not the motor!) in it along with all the valves. Have levers or shafts going to all the valves and the pump so you can operate them. The motor pump will suck in fluid from the outside just as it sucks in air and the valve will vent the fluid back into the tank in which they are submerged. I have done some testing with this and have yet to be able to brake of damage anything doing this. The only problem is that sometimes fluid can leak from the top end of a pneumatic cylinder, if that happens swap it for another, some cylinders leak, others don't. I love the hydraulic system, you cannot get much more authentic. This isn't any more powerful than pneumatics tho as in both cases you are limited to what pressure the hoses will pop off at. I highly recommend a built in pressure limiter to prevent the hoses popping off. Still it's very powerful tho. You do get instant movements and presice control but a well designed pneumatic system can do that pretty well anyway. Hydraulics are better on the whole and not that difficult really, but so far I haven't had pneumatics not do what I want so haven't yet needed to risk soaking the carpet in oil in a MOC. But we have the technology, hydraulics are not only possible, but not that difficult and works as well as if the parts were designed to work with a water like fluid.

I think he means the last flagship crane was 8421.

The best thing would be to use the radio transmitter and reciever found in sets like 8475 and 8366. they have an internal servo for steering and an auxiliary output if you still want to use the m-motor. Other than that i would recommend using two battery boxes and two v2 recievers, one for each motor.

Sure do , well I was 7 when I created that masterpiece! Yes, yes it is

For me, it must have: correct scale for 81.6mm diameter tyres or bigger, fake engine, working transmission, working independent suspention, great styling which also looks like a supercar (not a hot rod or muscle car), working steering. 4 wheel drive is very nice but not that essential, a good 2wd setup is better than a crap 4wd setup, but a good 4wd setup is best. A working steering wheel as well as HOG (hand of God) is also very nice. Opening/moving body parts are also good, like pop-up head lights (old fasioned now I know) and opening doors/boot (trunk). Being motorised and/or RC is not needed, in fact may be more bad than good due to the current parts allowing heavy vehicles with multiple speed transmissions to move at rarely faster than a snails pace (unless you have a few RC buggy motors!), which kinda destroys the illusion of a supercar I think.

Nice gearbox Your crawler works great, it's faster and more powerful than 9398

Congratulations

Nice progress and scale work so far. I think the newer hubs from 42000 would be better suited to an RC car because they have less friction, meaning it shuld go faster with less wasted energy.

Possibly the earilest possible impossible lego technic, possibly, possible from 1980.

Thanks GuiliuG . I would say at least 3 times stronger. The smaller gears themselves are stronger due to the larger middle bit, there are two of them and they are acting on a 20t gear instead of another twelve tooth. Yes, the drawings are off, it's just a sketch I did in MS paint by stitching parts together printscreened from MLcad. Well, it would require 5 new parts, two of them bonded together to make the main part, like the very first diff was. So more expensive than the current one, dunno if it would be prohibitively expensive tho, all the other parts could be useful in other places.