codefox421

Really liking your newest carriage in sand green. This is a great little gem! I see the middle wheel helps guide the outer wheels through curves as well. I would love to know how well this works in the brick. Have you tried it before?

I've used this brand of copper foil tape and a different kind from Lowes or Home Depot (this one maybe?) The copper tape is convenient since it's already the correct width and can pass current through the adhesive, but it looks a little out of place and isn't very durable. The other type of tape (aluminum I think) is more durable and looks more natural, but you'll have to cut it down to size and it has a paper backing that prevents current from flowing through the adhesive (which could be a good thing in this case). For this, I'd try putting aluminum tape on the "rail" portions and join the sides to the middle using a combination of aluminum and copper.

I bet it would be possible to use some copper or aluminum tape to electrify this.

+1 Though after watching the video, it looks like it may be a technical limitation of getting the bogies to swivel. The sacrifice to move the tiles out 1 plate might be a noticeable gap between the bogies and the rest of the frame. Will this make it around standard curves and switches?

Thanks for writing this up (especially the link to the wire!) If one were to use thinner wire, would .025 be the size you'd suggest?

Very nice automation. What is the hardware needed for a setup like this?

Interesting choice to brick-build the buffers. It works very well, in my opinion. What about the brake van do you feel is "too fat"?

Excellent technique for placing grass between the rails and keeping the line usable without modifying parts! I may have to borrow this some day.

These look great! The trans panels work well enough, though should you find the windows cheap enough they will make it come to life even more! The hole punch seems to give the best effect, definitely better than the black circles, though like you say it looks a little too small. By the way, have you considered wrapping a 1x2 trans brick with a hole-punched sticker? It would eliminate the offset due to the window pane.

It looks like lifelites uses JST connectors... maybe JST-ZH. It should be easy enough to respin a board to use those specific connectors. You might look into using a shift register though, so you can control more outputs with the one micro-controller.

Really great build! I'm curious: how are you keeping those long runs of sideways brown bricks along the bottom sides in place? I think 2x6 is a good size for the black greeble box, but I'd suggest making it 1 plate thinner. It sticks out a little too far in my opinion.

That looks really fun to drive. Hell, I had fun just watching you drive it! XD Great build, man. Looks superb!

You could also try my open source Bluetooth solution, BricksTer. The PCB is quite small and can be hidden much more easily than the IR receiver. For example, check out legoman's GE AC4400CW, which uses a BricksTer receiver.

That's a really clever solution! I didn't even notice the pin on the roof in the first picture.

Yep, that was me, not you. I will look into eventually, but there are less-cosmetic things to work on right now. It's been on my mind to extend the firmware so as to alleviate the guessing game. I just haven't had the time to develop it yet. You could take a stab at it. This outline gives an idea of where it fits into the protocol (under "Program Mode"): http://codepen.io/niaconis/full/CawKD/ The AT command for the Bluetooth module is AT+NAMEdevice_name (where device_name is the name you want it to show up as) and the response is OKdevice_name You could say Mindstorms compatibility has been paramount from the start. I started this project after reading an exciting comment (on a LEGO Cuusoo post) that outlined the benefits of having a Power Functions Bluetooth receiver by referencing its use with Mindstorms. I'm sure SBrick chose BLE because it's the path of least resistance to iOS support. A kit designed to be inside a case isn't ready yet, but I could sell you some PCB-only prototypes. PM me if you're interested.

No worries OzShan! I've got great news: Doc and I had some productive discussion and he provided an excellent mockup of a case! I went on to make some modifications, and the 3d file is now hosted in the repository: https://github.com/B...kster8884bt.stl (The interactive preview shows some invisible faces on the inside of the bottom half, but they do exist. I think the normals are backward.) I had the prototype 3D printed from Shapeways, and put together this little video update: In summary: Dimensions: 3 x 4 x 1 2/3 Input: 1 on bottom Output: 2 on top Technic holes: added externally (can make holes face sides, or use axle holes, etc) I really appreciate any feedback I can get about the current case design. Please let me know what you like and what you don't like. Do you think BricksTer needs a case at all? As a last note, I had to really hack the PCB to get it to interface with the enclosure. Even now it can still be a little uncooperative at times. This is understandable; the current PCB wasn't designed to be put in a box! I plan to make another revision of the PCB and design it with this in mind.

Thank you! One of these days I'm going to have to play around with someone's IR system or buy my own. I don't really have any comparison to consider while I'm developing the BricksTer Bluetooth receiver. It's so nice to be able to just whip out my phone and go, even though it's getting to be an old man of a phone with only Bluetooth 2.1. And yeah it takes some nose-dives, especially going downhill. Can't wait to try out your version too! Maybe when I have some time over the weekend.

I highly recommend the ones with bottom tubes. They stick to other bricks much more readily. http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=88930

I do wish it cornered a little tighter, which I think all wheel steering would provide. I just knew I couldn't achieve it within a short time frame with my limited technic skills and parts, and I really wanted to have something to drive around in order to try out the accelerometer interface I had just written! This is why I still want to try Splat's version: he achieved AWD and all wheel steering! Oh, and I use this open source Bluetooth controller called BricksTer: http://www.eurobrick...topic=87340&hl= It does, doesn't it?! Thanks. Thanks! Glad you like it.

I really liked the look of 42005 Monster Truck, but wanted to motorize it. I found Splat's motorized version, which helped kick me into gear and order the necessary parts. Once all the parts arrived from several BrickLink orders, I started thinking: why not try motorizing the model without following Splat's build? Later, I'll tear my design apart and try his build. So here is the result of my tinkering. Motorized LEGO 42005 by niaconis, on Flickr I've been able to retain much of the look (and build) of the official LEGO model. Motorized LEGO 42005 by niaconis, on Flickr The battery box is easily removable and slips into the empty space at the back of the truck for use. Motorized LEGO 42005 by niaconis, on Flickr It is possible to charge the battery without removing it from the vehicle. Motorized LEGO 42005 by niaconis, on Flickr A BricksTer Open Source Bluetooth receiver prototype is mounted to the frame using technic pin/axles and half bushings. I found I needed the bushings because the holes are sized for studs, which have an ever so slightly larger diameter than technic axles. Motorized LEGO 42005 by niaconis, on Flickr A servo motor mounted in the front steers the front wheels while an L motor mounted at the back drives the rear wheels. I wish I could have geared down the drivetrain more, but I found I currently have no 48-tooth gears. Motorized LEGO 42005 Steering Demo by niaconis, on Flickr In the animated gif, you can roughly see how it is steered with an Android phone. And finally, I present a short video showing the monster truck driving around in a local park, controlled by the new proof of concept accelerometer input for the BricksTer Android app (which you can also see in the gif). Thanks for reading this far! I appreciate critique, comments, and suggestions!

Citing the 9V train motors for having metal wheels isn't particularly valid. They have traction rubber bands where they meet the top of the track and, while the metal portions do make electrical contact with the inside edge of the rail, those parts are spring-loaded so don't bare any weight. That said, I think you may be right about the extra engine weight helping create traction in this case. I suppose you will know for sure once you get your rolling stock.

Glad to see my Bluetooth motor drivers are still coming in handy. Since it's hidden away in the latest pics, I take it the "surgery" to the PCB went well? I'm finishing up some minor firmware/Android updates tonight; should fix some issues you may not have even noticed yet. I think the engine would definitely benefit from two extra studs, but it looks good at the length it is now too. I would be more concerned about getting the center wheels back into those nice 6 wheel bogies! Looking forward to the finished version and to a more in-depth look at those powered trucks with metal wheels!

Lots of good entries. It was tough to choose where to put my votes. 13: 6 21: 3 29: 4 31: 6 52: 1

Knew that had to be a reason. The use of negative space is really great!

If you think of the IR receiver as having 14 speeds, then BricksTer has 56! It is 28 in each direction. I have to do more research, but I'm working toward the ability to upload the firmware wirelessly over the Bluetooth link. It's looking like this will require the use of a more feature-full microcontroller, but that's good news for offloading PWM (and serial) to hardware! Also, Doc and I had a good chat last night. I'm looking forward to see what he comes up with for the case.