dr_spock

Maybe LEGO can do a giant STAMP (sticker across mulitiple pieces) to cover the back side. Hide it with NYC style graffiti. A sticker shouldn't interfere with the opening and closing of the sides.

Thanks for the explanation. I forgot about that scene.

Welcome, Peter.

Intel Compute Sticks offer computing power in a small USB package. It doesn't look like it has easily accessible General Purpose IO ports that development boards have. One could make or get an IO to USB board to connect sensors, motor control ICs, etc. There is always some way to get things to work with enough time, resources or money. The prix de 150$ is higher than Raspberry Pi ($35) or Arduino UNO ($25). Pi and UNO don't come with Bluetooth and Wifi onboard but can be added. If you prefer programming for Intel, Intel has a Galileo development board based on a 32-bit Pentium system SoC chip for around $70. An Arduino clone board can be bought for the low price of $5 plus free shipping from China. Connect reed switches and IR LED directly to it, upload a quick program and have a little self-contained unit controlling LEGO Power Functions. If Bluebooth needed, a little Bluebooth module board can be had for around $6 with free shipping from China. ESP8266 wifi module board is around $5. I do need a PC to write and upload my code to the Arduino. Once loaded, I no longer need my PC. I can leave it at home and take only the Arduino to my LUG events like outdoor kids picnics. You can certainly use a PC to control your LEGO if you have a PC preference. It's an option among others. You could get some complex control system going with a PC as supervisor over various microcontroller devices that function as remote sensors and controls.

You can stuff "things" into the tire to keep them from collapsing under very heavy loads. The weight of your MOC will be spreadout on at least six of those tires. I guess best to test and see. Or let us know the weight of your MOC and those of us with the tires can check for you if you don't have the tires.

Nice. I guess I have no room for another tag.

Day 316 of 365: Howitzer by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Day 314 of 365: Roofers by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Thank you.

Welcome aboard.

Welcome to Eurobricks. Nice to see those older sets.

I'm in Canada. One of my friends lives in a town where the local public library has funding for free 3D printing for its residences. Mine charges $1 plus 2 or 3 cents per minute. I'm trying to convince him to get a library card and learn to upload my STL files. It's worthwhile to check out your local library or school to see if it is something they offer.

It depends on what you want to do whether a PC is more appropriate or not. The PC can be too power hungry to run off 4 AA batteries, not easy to sew into your clothes, very tight fit inside a LEGO train, etc. It can be like using a sledgehammer to tap in a tiny pin into your metal watch wrist strap.

Great job. Looks like a lot of fun to play with.

Your local public library may offer free or inexpensive 3D printing. I have used a my local library to print a LEGO compatible holder for a SG90 servo motor. There are plenty of free STL designs for download and software to design your own stuff.

When was the downtime? Things appear to working fine for me. I don't notice any slowness.

It is not that expensive for a consultant who charges $800+ per student per day of corporate team building training. Plus she can probably write off the set as a business asset depreciation.

Quiet is good. I've been playing around with an Arduino clone to control Power Function trains: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=110202 Arduino is very inexpensive and easy for input/output at TTL levels if you don't have to a lot of complex calculations. Pi is better if you need a general purpose computer to run an operating system on. I have an ESP8266-12 wifi SoC module but I haven't done much with it yet. I haven't tried to Arduino to NXT through Bluetooth either. So much stuff and so little money. Being able to control devices and read sensors over a network has been around for long time. Don't forget to implement good security in your designs.

You can try to fit an axle across the pulleys to keep the string from falling out like this guy did. Picture 7642 by dr_spock_888, on Flickr

He alluded to the price in his YouTube video review of the crane.

Did he have an exclusivity contract with the museum?

Someone building the greatest ultimate Batmobile MOC found a solution by drilling out the axle hole in wheel hubs into a round hole. I find Technic built plastic hook block can sometimes be too light when you have too many reeves. It would need some weight or load attacted to the hook to overcome friction to lower it.

A. Coincidence by supernatural beings. B. Attempt to increase piece count and price. C. LEGO may have chosen not to release the HQ with Ecto-1 to minimize their risk since they didn't have any previous Ghostbusters. Ecto-1 could have been their market test. Ecto-1 sales were good enough to help green light the HQ to production. D. All of the above. E. None of the above. F. Fill in blank _____________________________

Would something like a DC-DC 9V/12V/24V to 5V 1.5A Step Down Power Module Vehicle Charger Module work?

Disneyland de Paris

Cranes Etc. has links to various shops selling model cranes and they also review model crane accessories 1/50 is popular scale for model cranes and machinery.

I guess it is ok to substitute since the metal hook part is out of production. Plus it is getting stupid expensive.