DLuders

Here is Jennifer Clark's webpage for her Demag AC50-1 All-Terrain Crane : For the picture below, she wrote: "A 9V motor, battery box and several coins reside within the counterweight of the Lego model giving a total of 250 grams, equivalent to 2 tons in the real world. The motor used for telescoping is located at the bottom of the boom and will also add some weight. Making the counterweight heavier would be easy, but it would put more strain on the drive motors."

@ rm8: Congratulations! I suppose you had to sign an agreement (as outlined on this 2012 Lego Technic Competition webpage ), so I guess your Building Instructions cannot be made now by you: "The Top 10 candidates must accept to transfer all intellectual property rights as outlined below. The LEGO Group will contact the Top 10 candidates directly.... "Intellectual property rights By entering this competition you accept that ownership and all intellectual property rights to your design is automatically awarded and transferred to LEGO Juris A/S, Koldingvej 2, 7190 Billund, Denmark without any limitations. You will not receive any payment for the transfer of your design or any intellectual property rights, nor will you receive any payment for the products sold in connection hereto. The LEGO Group can use the design and any intellectual rights deriving from the design without any limitations."

@ samar: Welcome to Eurobricks! Notice that the two Differential Gears (the Dark Bluish Grey items centered between the sides of the wheels) need to face the SAME WAY, like this:

I wouldn't go that far. Perhaps the lack of American sales are due to several factors: (1) The parts are hard to obtain --> great expense on Bricklink. (2) People are "broke" from buying expensive Lego sets for Christmas. (3) Some people are not Lego Pneumatic fans.

If you want maximum speed, use the gears shown on the left. If you want maximum torque, use the gears on the right:

No, they don't anymore. You can get the rare 8528 "Converter Cables for Mindstorms NXT" from Bricklink, and see them described on this Mindstorms.Lego.com webpage .

@ Crist Clapper: Welcome to Eurobricks! You said you tried using Lego Digital Designer (LDD) to build a virtual Jeep Grand Wagoneer model? Since that is (probably) one of the easier programs to master, what aspect of LDD did you not like? Sariel has this "Scaling Tutorial for Vehicles" to use pictures and build properly-scaled models. Do you want to build your model with Lego Technic elements, or with conventional "System" elements? How big do you want your model to be?

Conchas published Part 1 of a two-part TechnicBRICKS TechTalk interview with Jennifer Clark.

@ Boxerlego: When you say you had to "shunt" your Lego Power Functions Battery Box, did you do the same thing that Ximbary did on this Eurobricks post? He wrote: "i dont have a working camera right now, this is all i can provide at this point: all you have to do is to connect the 2 metal ends of this HL5L thingy as in this picture. i have never done solding before but i got it done with an extremely cheap solding gun (or whatever its called) on 4 battery boxes without fails within half an hour. its really a piece of cake.. but you have to take care that the solding is done rather thin or you will not be able to push the button of the battery box towards the right position anymore.." :D

That claw picture is from jpsindustrie's SeTechnic Review of the 42006 set! View it in the original French and in this English translation ; you can change the "TO" language at the top of that Translate.Google.com webpage to fit your own native language so that you understand the review better. flapjacklego just posted this YouTube video of The Lego Group's official animation video of the 42006 Lego Technic Excavator set: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqWqpIfZ0xE

Nice find, but the 42006 B-Model instructions are nowhere to be found....

This TechnicBRICKS article shows (and describes) how the Linear Actuator II differs from the older version. This TechnicBRICKS article shows (and describes) what came with the 8043's Service Pack (to fix the problems in September-October 2010).

Did anybody on this forum buy one of those MinuteBot bases (USD $20)? If so, what did you use it for?

3D printing is a lot more expensive than just buying the rare part off of Bricklink.

@ 750ACE: You can attach an image to your reply by pressing the "More Reply Options" button at the lower-right corner of the "Reply to this topic" window. You will then see an "Attach Files" window at the lower-left corner. Everyone only gets a total allotment of 150k of attachments, so your picture will have to be pretty small. You could upload an image to Brickshelf, then "Deeplink" it so that others don't have to wait several days for the image to be "moderated" (made public). I like using Flickr (which is free for less than 200 images), because you can upload images quickly, add descriptions, and have some control of the SIZE you link to your Eurobricks reply (800x600 pixels maximum).

Nice MOC!

Sariel also came up with this "Compact Axle With Differential Lock" design -- it is a "Simple driven, non-steered axle assembly with a differential lock, based on studless pieces. Building instruction included. The following design addresses the problem of the new differentials being difficult to lock, and the older, easily lockable differential being difficult to use with studless pieces. This simple driven, non-steered axle is based on a studless 5×7 frame and allows to drive the differential with a 3:1 gear reduction. Locking is done by a transmission driving ring controlled with a 32039 connector, without the need for more specialized pieces such as the transmission changeover catch. The entire assembly is very compact and rigid, and the 32039 connector is less likely to snap over the transmission driving ring than other pieces. Small pneumatic cylinder shown in the example is only one of several possible ways to control locking. While using pneumatics may be convenient when there are many suspended axles, as it allows to control them all from a single valve, and requires only connecting elastic hoses to them, it is also possible to use a motor – directly or, for example, with a small linear actuator."

@ Alasdair noted, you can read more about Sariel's "3 Studs Wide Differential Lock" . He wrote that "It relies on the transmission driving ring, which is a rare part but very easy to engage/disengage. It’s so compact that the driving ring actually touches the differential case, but the resulting friction is minimal thanks to its smooth surface. The 16-teeth and 20-teeth gears are well meshed and capable of handling a considerable torque, while their ratio reduces the torque transferred to the transmission driving ring by 20%. I suppose the driving ring and the differential have similar torque resistance, but the driving ring is a much more expensive loss "

@ 750ACE: What would that do, to replace the 48989 "Light Bluish Gray Technic, Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with 4 Pins" with two 6558 "Technic, Pin Long with Friction Ridges Lengthwise" parts? -->

YES

@ 07jkearney: Your setup is perfectly safe. I've done a similar setup before, and one can be assured by this answer to "Frequently Asked Question" 10 on PowerFunctions.Lego.com : "10. Can I use Power Functions with the MINDSTORMS NXT? Yes. With 8886 Power Functions Extension Wire or 8871 Power Functions Extension Wire 20”and the MINDSTORMS 8528 - NXT Converter Cable you can incorporate Power Functions elements with the NXT." If you want to be adventuresome, you could try Philo's "Power Functions NXT Remote Control" setup: You can use either the standard Power Functions (PF) Remote Controller or the 8879 PF Speed Control Remote, modified with a steering wheel as Sariel did. Your setup should not care either way.

Saberwing40k made a LDD File of the Lego Power Functions L-motor and Servo-motor, and posted it here. You can see how he built up the equivalent pinhole locations: They represent Bricklink Part 99498c01, "Light Bluish Gray Electric, Motor 9V Power Functions Servo with Dark Bluish Gray Bottom". ...and Bricklink Part 99499c01, "Electric, Motor 9V Power Functions L with Dark Bluish Gray Bottom."

@ efferman: Aanchir's Lego Technic Sprocket Wheel Template should work -- here it is on this Eurobricks post : "LDD file (includes sprocket wheel wrapped in 6 tread pieces, straight length of 12 tread pieces, and green alignment tool) User's Guide (step-by-step instructions, including tips on avoiding snags)." From Aanchir's Brickshelf gallery, his User's Guide says: "Hi! I'm Aanchir, and I created this template. This template is for building models on LDD that require part 57520 (the small sprocket wheel) and part 57518 (the tread). To use this template: 1) Download the file 2) Remove one or more of the tread pieces that surround the sprocket wheel so that it's no longer a complete loop. I recommend removing one of the 60-degree tread pieces so there's a horizontal tread to connect to. 3) Connect as much extra tread as you need. A chain of horizontally-placed treads is provided for you to use or copy. WARNING! Clips on LDD do not like to center correctly! There will usually be a left or right offset, which can do a lot of harm if all of your clips are offset in the same direction. The chain of tread pieces may not be lined up at both ends! To avoid this, use the green alignment tool included in the file. Place new tread pieces on every other pin, then place tread pieces on the pins in-between. The alignment tool is entirely in green so you can use the "color select" tool to select all its parts at once. If you need to use green parts in your actual model, feel free to select the tool and change its color to something a color you will not be using. 4) Once you have the length of tread you need, you will need it to wrap it around the other wheels of your model. ALWAYS use the hinge tool to ensure the tread is wrapped snugly around each wheel. It may help to paint the treads TRANSPARENT so you can see how they align in the grooves. 5) Some sets and MOCs will have some "sag room" on their treads, or will have wheels that have to be rotated to align properly. I am not yet equipped to deal with either problem, but perhaps you will find your own solution. If the alignment goes smoothly, the last hinge rotation will make your length of tread link back up at the ends. Congratulations! You're done! I hope this template proves useful."

Nice find! I always admired Mahjqa's green-and-orange Stilzkin Bridge Launcher (seen in the and composite picture below), but there's always room for another interpretation like Itchy4000's grey bridge launcher. Itchy4000's YouTube video in efferman's post above is the "long version" -- below is a of that same MOC: In the video description, Itchy4000 wrote: "Lego Brückenlegepanzer Biber - Armoured vehicle launched bridge Supported by TomsBrickstore.de Speeded up 4 times. 6x IR Receiver 6x M-Motor 2x L-Motor 3x XL-Motor Cost 500€ Bridge length 93cm (37") Weight incl. bridge 3400g Bridge were tested with a 5 kg load on top and a wide of 80 cm (32"). You can see all photos on brickshelf under my username Itchy4000. No building instruction available."