Anio

That's perfectly normal.

Yes. Your link is broken. :/ The UCS Slave is not my best MOC. But I'm very satisfied with it. I think that I can not improve it anymore. I really get what I wanted to get with it. ^^

Yes, I e-mailed him too one month ago. But I get no reply either. Otherwise, I find it a bit annoying to supply the instruction. Actually, it is not mine, you understand. I think that asking to the owner of the model is, in a certain maner, a way to show his recognition. I know that. Cause I built MOCs too. And I'm very happy when people contact me about my (UCS) work. Be patient for few days, and I will give you my 3D file.

I asked him the building instruction. But I would have been able to built it with photos if I hadn't been lazy. Troll and trueness ON : The proportion are totally wrong. And it is sometimes poorly designed inside. What the hell are U-joints doing there ?!!? He could have find something better. Troll and trueness OFF.

OMG. What a coincidence. I built Curtis's IH (see my signature). But currently, I'm working on a 108cm long model. It will have the right proportions. And it will also have the same scale as the Venator UCS (see my signature too). Here is a screenshot : I should be able to supply the files in the next days or weeks. For free. So, my only advise : be patient ! ;)

Not necesseraly.

I voted for the last one ; Brickthing. Cause this one has the most iconic character of the SW Universe : Darth Vader. Other banners are very well deisnged, but they have some characters who are not representativ of the Star Wars Univers. Star Wars, it is the story of Anakin Skywalker/Dark Vader.

No. What you really have to ask is : Is the hexagonal shape the best way to get a nice looking final model ? Arf... Actually, it is very much a matter of feeling. Cause the MOCer is an artist, isn't it ? ^^ Well, I'm gonna try to give some ideas (not necessarily for your current X-wing) : - changing some angles to make the shape more aggressive, dynamic, to emphasize some key details/elements/parts of the model - building things in a simple way is often the best way to get something sleek. No need to make something complex when something easy is enough. Try to build efficiently. - working on the textures (with bricks and colors) to add some variations. - and about big MOCs : for them to be good looking outside, they must first be well designed inside.

Woo, this model from psiaki is really impressive. It has nice colors, shapes, details, and a good mix of studded and tiled surfaces. It is IMO the best model from all those shown in this thread, by far. :) @ Fallenangel : you should focus on more obvious things first instead of pitnicking. Here are few things I can see from the pics you posted in the first message : - the way it is built seem very weak. :/ - too many studs - get ride off these ugly and blocky engines - a "plate" design is not viable in such a small model. Do it with solid bricks. Like other people did on the X-Wing you've shown. Good luck ! IMPORTANT EDIT : Fallenangel, please, keep in mind this golden rule : a Lego MOC has to look good, which doesn't mean that it has to be correct. A good MOCer has to understand that building things in Lego requires to build things differently from what they are in reality. Not because the builder lakes skills or whatever. But because the model looks better with small Lego adaptations. And what is hard for a MOCer or a set designer (who is actually an official MOCer ) is precisely to find these adaptations. And other few word about the criticism : I do not think that Fallenangel is brutish or negativ. He is polite and express his feelings well, with pictures of real ship (studio model), etc. BUT IMO, what Fallenangel has to understand is that this kind of criticism is not what MOCer are expecting. Cause MOCers are not model maker (see what I just wrote above).

3 pneumatic cylinders, 4 switchs, 1 compressor, 1 M motor, 1 battery box, more than 2,000 others parts, the Mercedes brand, for a MSRP of only €190 ? Either the part number is wrong, or the MSRP is wrong. And I think it's the part number. I do not see how this 8110 could have more than 2,000. IMO it has about 1,500. And I do not believe that TLG is going to sell a set which costs more than €190.

Very nice !

Sometimes, a pic is worth 1000 words. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=3839558

Hey, my 8049 with compressor worked perfectly (fast and smooth). And I din't change anything compared to the building instruction.

The model shown in the video may have some problems : the video is speeded up (x2 or x3) and the moves are still very slow. O_o

Avoid 8t. They break easily with high torque.

+1 with Junkstylegio. We do not see anything on that video.

Disagreed. For a given quantity of detail, I would say that smaller is always better. I see no reason to make something bigger that what's necessary, excepted for showing off, and for the sake of saying "Haha, look, my model is twice bigger than yours (but do not repeat that : it's quite pointless, I could have easily build the same model twice smaller)" I do not like Sandcraler cause it is not a nice looking model, but the size of your model seems pretty good with the great details you put in it.

Cause you think the way these contests are made is subtle ?

Fail again ?

Hi, There is no true instruction in these files. Actually, to built the model, in each file (the frame, the wing, the tail, the greebs, etc) you have to switch off all the parts (with the little yellow light) and switch them on part after part to see where each one is located. It is long, but it is doable.

Hi, I've found how 8071 works. First, easy, the steering : 12t/rack 7L. Ok, everyone already knew that. Same for the outriggers with the 2 black knobs at the back. But the 2 other (and main) functions were harder to find. So, the knob on the left of the truck is used to rise the arm. A 16t with a 20t double bevel. This 20t is with an other 20t double bevel (not 100% sure about this one, there are maybe 2 knob wheels instead) to get a vertical axis. Then, worm gear/24t. The knob on the right of the truck is used to rotate the arm. There is 16t/20t double bevel again. Then, there is 2 knob wheels to get a vertical axis. And eventually, there is 1 8t (yes, I wrote 1, not 2) which works with the crown of the turntable (56t). The second 8t is not really used in the mechanism. Actually, it is attached with a blue pin with friction. Thus, it is here for the bucket not to be too much shaken. edit : sorry for the mistakes I may have done. I wrote basic sentences for the message to be understandable since my English is not good enough to well explain that kind of things.

A friend did instruction for the TIE and the podracer. Polo also share a CAD file of the Venator. So, you can get 3 of the UCS MOCs. The Invisible Hand is also based on Curtis' design. So, if you contact him, you should be able to reproduce this model as well. The Slave is not so hard to build, even without instructions. The photos on my Brickshelf may be enough to rebuild it. I'm afraid that there is no way to reproduce the AT-TE and Executor easily. So, with patience (and many BL orders), you can get 5 of my non official UCS.

Hey, there is ! Well, not the one you may be talking about...

DLuders, you should add the answer "a fake" in your poll. ^^

I've always thought that this thread was for people to show their SW minifigs only. Dunno why. :-S But I just have seen that we can also show our collection. So, here are my models :