Anio

No. It is not fair to say that. Just compare 10221 to 10030, you will see the difference. 10030 is not perfect, but the greebs are very varied (more than 10221, at least). The joins between the section are also satisfying. The joins on 10221 are definitely not satisfying ("huge gaps" is a euphemism). Making good joins between all the sections is IMO the hardest part on a UCS model. It is also what makes that the job is well done on the final result. And if I can understand that the bottom is flat to make things easier, on the contrary, the tubes outside is not acceptable on a UCS, IMO.

Now, I do the stickers myself. :) But I think my skills on photoshop are still very limited. Indeed, the stickers are nearly the only thing I can do ! Well, in fact, that's all I need. :) Something very interesting for the community would be to redo the UCS stickers. So, everyone could get a (free) file of them and print his own stickers. This would prevent people from asking 100$ for a sticker sheet. -_-' I confess that I never had the courage to redo all of them. One day, maybe... one day... edit : an example of one of my stickers : http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Anio/SeTechnic/Podracer-UCS-ST03/sticker.jpg

The magnets are very strong if correctly used. I have absolutely no problem with magnets on my Executor and Venator. The reason why the magnets are not used is because they are VERY expensive parts. I'm curious to see the model "in flesh", to really see how poorly designed it is. From what I've seen so far, it is similar to the Death Star II #10143 : the model looks good when look at it from afar. When you look closer at it, you see all defects : poor greebs (or even no greeb for the back), bad joins between the different sections, and bottom flat with tubes.

It seems there is no difference between my model and this instruction. I think the problem com from inside the compressor. :)

Again : I'm speaking in the Technic theme. I thought it was clear, when I was talking of a 2 meters long crane, etc. If I build studful UCS models (with studful internal structures for the cruisers), it's a proof I understand that studded parts may be better sometimes, no ?

I'm obviously speaking about the Technic theme. --'

No. It is not my opinion. It is a fact. Studless if much superior in term of building techniques and compacity. As for the overall look of the construction (and here I give my personnal opinion), I generally prefer studless models with "suggested" lines.

That's because studless is vastly superior. It is cheaper on BL for example, you can build easily in all directions, and in a very compact way. Stufull is only better when you need a lot of sturdiness. For instance, for a crane which is 2 meters long or more. If you want to buy studless models, I advise to buy models of the same colors (yellow for example). At the beginning, when you have few parts you will appreciate them to be all of the same color. For the Technic theme, I really do not advise to design your models on a 3D soft. It is very very likely that what you designed does not work in reality. Building in studless requires to understand the spirit of the studless. For example, in studless, it is highly recommended to build with odd legnth. But that's only one very basic rule. You can look at many building instructions to see how things are made. And obviously, building with actual studless bricks helps a lot.

Very nice ! You captured the shaped perfectly. I've immediatly been thinking to the studful model when I saw your MOC. :) I'm not a big fan of this U-joint transmission for the steering, though.

On the real Sandcrawler, how the vehicle is supposed to steer ? With a real steering mechanism ? Or by driving the threads in opposite directions ?

You can use the knob wheels (4 round teeth yellow gear). It is very strong when used at 90°. Actually, this part has been designed to be used at 90° and support high torque) That part may be helpful too : http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=87408

Worm screw = wrong choice. You will loose about 30-40% of the power with them, due to friction. XL motors are slow. It is pretty easy to do a gearing down with regular gear, in a small space. And btw, avoid 8t gear too. They are weak. Same for the simple bevel gear. Then, it remain 12t, 20t, 36t double bevel, 16t, 24t and 40t. Try to put all the gear straight and not at 90°. It will be even more strong.

My current project is a secret. :) Well... not for everyone. ^^ Thank you. :)

For the final inventory to be 100% correct, I did few changes. It will help a lot to gather all the parts. The wheels are, as you said, not the good one. The few Technic parts that are outside of the model are supposed to be in the chassis, to hold the fake suspensions. This photo should help you to see how these parts are attached :

Indeed, design, technique, how things are built, why they are built in a way and not another one. THAT is what is interesting, IMO. Generally, I try to explain all the tricks I use. When I have a 3D file, I share it (though I'm still not sure if I'm gonna share the 3D file of my next MOC, because of several reasons ). Sometimes (depending on which MOC) I borrow ideas from other people (and I credit them). So, in return, I try to do my best to help the community. :)

The way the towing fork extends is absolutely EPIC !!! Very, very impressive !

It is a great set, IMO. It has nice features, and it is very cute. I like the white color and the small wheels. This 8071 is waaaaay better than 8289 which had the same functions, but twice more parts. That's an obvious clue of poor efficiency regarding the way 8289 was designed.

2 x

I've seen it too, few weeks ago. It is a great MOC. I will do a Republic Cruiser, one day. One thing is nearly certain : mine will be smaller than this one. Cause I think it is possible to include as much detail in a smaller model. :) The trickiest part at a smaller scale : the conical shape in the front.

Maybe you have not seen that I edited my previous message. :)

I've been in touch with Lego. The Unimog has indeed a problem. Of course, they will fix it in the next boxes they will produce. But they did not tell me precisely what was the problem. So, they could have only the panhard rod in mind. I've no idea if they will offer a service pack for all the model that have already been sent to the retailers, and for the few people who already own a copy.

I think you mean 1/2 pins. With 1/2 pins, it works. But the tire can come very close to the chassis (1 mm, maybe less) So I guess the designer choose the 3/4 pins to get a safer result.

"The wheel does not interfer with the chassis" Actually, theses 3/4 pins have a reason to be. Remove the pins, compress suspension at the maximum, and steer : the tire rubs a lot against the chassis. The wheel can not even rotate anymore. Conclusion : it is not advised to remove the pins.

The model is gone from Amazon. Impossible to pre-order it anymore. edit : it depends on which Amazon website we look at, actually. I think the best solution is to wait few days. edit : Maybe a moderator should move the few last posts about the "problems" in the "official thread of the unimog U400", instead of this "review" thread.

Very bad news : it seems the 8110 has been withdrawn from the Lego stores (basically the only place where it is possible to get the set at the moment). According to the Lego employees, a pneumatic part would have some problems. Since the classic cylinder, the small cylinder and the switch are used for many years, I think these parts are ok. So, the problem could come from the new compressor (keep in mind it is not the same as the one we used to know in 8049 and 8868). And this make sense since it is the compressor (and especially its join) which is constrained when the pressure is too high. The join has to leak, to let the air go. And that may damage the join, and so the compressor. The delay caused by this problem on one of the pneumatic parts could be a good opportunity to fix the problem on the front panhard rod (if it turns out that this panhard rod has indeed a problem). We should learn more about all of this in the next days...