Anio

Yeah, it may jump, but hoses may also go off with a very high pressure. It seems that nothing prevent the pressure from being very high (for example, no clutch like the motorized 8049).

There are 5L between the black liftarms. So, on the instruction it may be 4L old diff + 1L red bush.

Haha. It seems TLG didn't appreciate that the set was revealed before they expected (even if my review was a very positiv criticism). But now, TLG seems to have learn its lesson and get the situation under control. Now, they choose the LUG they want in order to reveal the set. I think that a comprehensive review would have been better to know what the model has really in him, though. As for the diff, it is an old 4L diff. I do not see what else it could be.

Very, very well seen, Allanp ! It is indeed a 4L diff in the little light blue inventory. What is strange is that on the 1:1 scaled drawing, it doesn't seem to be a 4L diff, neither a 3L one. And on the next page, it does not seems either to be a 4L diff.

I looked carefully all the pictures, and I do not get how the engine works. Green : the steering mechanism. Ok, everyone see how it works. Yellow : the transmission, for the engine. The middle differential really seems not to be linked to the DBG 16t clutch above. But I guess the model will have a working L4, though (a fake fake engine would be too bad). The easiest way to link the gears would be to use a 4L differential, as Crowkiller did a while ago.

Uh... No ! I may have miss something.

I'm disapointed by the model because of how the model is built. But my happyness does not depend on a model. I will buy the model, I will build it and have fun. Nevertheless, I will still think it could have been better designed. Ok, the 2 axles are great and will much improve the TT the AFOLs may build. It is also very nice to get a big pneumatic model. But the way the middle of the chassis is built is very muddleheaded. Sorry to say that, but using U-joint to transmit the movement for "regular" functions (by regular functions I mean no steering wheel or transmission to the engine, cause in these cases the use of U-joint is very understandable) is a way AFOL build their MOC, not Lego designers. And in that aspect, I think the model is disapointing, even if overall it is still a great model. 8043 is much more complex. More generally, the pneumatic models are not the most complex sets.

I must say that I am very disapointed, with these new pics. IMO, the heavy use of driving ring extension to remedy the not well located gear boxes, the use of U-joint which provides ugly diagonal transmissions, and the necessity to create so many new parts for this model is a clear indication that the chassis is not enough accomplished. Anyway, thanks a lot for the pics !

And what do you think of being a little bit harsher and demanding when writing a review ? It's pretty boring to read "Oh ! it's a must have, the minifigs are great !" everywhere.

We can see the portal axles wih 16t, on the last version. On other model, it is very strange to see U joint for the HOG. I think that a U-joint here does not match with TLG standards.

I like the inside very very much. Waiting for more pics.

Unless you are sponsored.

Very VERY true. IMO, what is very interesting in building models the way set designer build their models is to find the find the easiest way to build something. Optimizing things is a guarantee of simplicity and so, of efficience. So yes, to achieve that, you have to understand what you build to find the best balance between overall design (how the set looks), accuracy (how the model is similar to what we can see in the movies), part number (and thus cost), and playability (is it fun to play with ?). THAT's what I like when I build.

But it seems that some models may inspire them... haha.

It is crazy to read that people are impressed by... a box ! C'mon, this is the same model as 7660. No, actually 7660 was better.

I know what is in the folder. And I did not downloaded it cause I do not need it, not because I do not like your efforts. But that was not my point. I mean that MOCer appreciate to present their work themself, to get the recognition they deserve in the thread they created. MOCer also appreciate to present their work themself for people to read what they wrote on their own website, etc. But let's be clear : I do not say to stop everything you do. Actually, running a blog would feet pretty well to what you do. Don't you think ? But if you disagree, it's fine. Actually, that was just a suggestion.

+1 IMO, during the lasts years, there were too many LAs and motors in the sets. More knobs and gears is good ! :D I'm not yet conviced that motorising this 8109 was a real necessity.

What for ? If people want to look at this model, they browse BS, and even better, if they want to download it, they use the soft BS Backup. I mean that uploading the file somewhere in the Internet hides the autorship of the model (in some extent). The guys did a folder where people can look at his work. It's fine. Let people check what he did. I would not be very pleased to see my work reuploaded like that on such a website. For example, for my own MOC, I prefer (by far) people to check my vids, to send me PM, etc. This is the same idea when you present so many models here on EB, before people can even show their own work. If I remember well, a member already told you that about a MOC (and I must say that I would have been upset like him). On the contrary, I fully agree if you tell me that about 80% of the MOCs you present would never appear on EB if you had not presented them. So, my point is that you maybe do "too much". Just my 2 cents. :p edit : maybe you should run a blog. ^^

On SeTechnic, we finally found how 8109-B works to rise the arm : Under the battery box, we can see the small dark bluish gray 8t. It works with a with clutch (you can see it too). At the end of this axis (in the middle of the chassis), there is a worm gear which works with a 24t (you can see 2 or 3 teeth of the 24t). On the same axis of this 24t, there is a black 12t. And with this last gear, the 13L rack can slide (you can see the rack on the left of the only red connector in the chassis). Hope my message is understandable (not sure ).

Some of you have been asking for a video in another thread. So, I eventually kept Curtis Black's design. I think the model looks pretty good. The size is perfect for such a ship (similar to 10019), and the details are very satisfying. The proportions are wrong (vertical ; horizontaly they are fine), but they definitely give some consistency to the model, which is very important to me. If the model had right proportions, it would have been too thin, slender, and so ridiculous. edit : few photos here : http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=463293

On both mods, I prefer the original set.

A well designed UCS model does not need to be modified. :o

In reality, everyone knows it is not true.

To avoid people like you.

@ Solscud007 : Shame on you.