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OleBM

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Everything posted by OleBM

  1. OleBM
    I need a new pair of pants..
  2. OleBM
    It's a solid axle setup, the most basic suspension there is. See here for info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live_axle Commonly used in old cars, muscle cars and trucks.
  3. OleBM
    This looks awesome! And btw, congratz on making it on the frontpage of the lego car blog http://thelegocarblo.../30/the-tudors/
  4. OleBM
    Thanks! That looks like a simple enough tutorial to start with But will any LEDs do? And how do you make them compatible with PF battery boxes?
  5. OleBM
    I love the idea of adding this sort of lights to lego models. I don't know ANYTHING about electronics or soldering, so does anyone know if there's a "guide" for dummies on the net? This looks so much better than the normal PF lights, which doesn't light things up that much..
  6. OleBM
    The performance looks awesome. Few trucks/cars would manage what you accomplished with yours, especially when climbing that board. I thought it was going to tip backwards for sure, but the weight distribution in this car is obviously perfect
  7. OleBM
    Cool! Am I correct when I assume that you could actually (to a certain deegree) "meet and climb" a vertical object with the front? And are those the rims used on the unimog? If so, I would love to know where I can order some of those tyres! They look awesome
  8. OleBM
    Very nice! This is the sort of customisation in lego I really like! Keep up the nice work!
  9. OleBM
    And so skynet was born...
  10. OleBM
    The 24-16 diff is also very good. If you're into modifying, you can cut and reduce the axlehole depth on one of the old 24T crown gears, to make it compatible with the 24t gear on the 24-16 diff, eliminating the needs for gears in between. The result is a very compact diff solution
  11. OleBM
    That's just a matter of how you build it The 8T gear is just hopeless when it comes to heavy duty drivetrain. I guarantee you that this is the first part to break in drivetrain applications. With the old style diff 28T, the 12T gear is the way to go. You just have to know how to build it properly so the gears won't slip.
  12. OleBM
    Why do you need to only use the 14 teeth gear? I ALWAYS use the old style 28 teeth diff with either a 12 or 20 tooth double bevel... It's the strongest diff lego has ever made.
  13. OleBM
    Most extreme monstertrucks are actually fueled by a mixture of turpentine, whiskey, and gasoline/diesel, so I suppose vodka could work too "Everything is allright with enough vodka." But the model looks very nice!
  14. OleBM
    This looks very nice! May I ask what you have put in there? Brass wire/rod? And I totally agree with you. Sometimes, standard lego parts will not allow for a complete and functional model, simply because they just don't work. This is a brilliant example of just that.
  15. OleBM
    Haha Nice one!
  16. OleBM
    The files in your folder is not yet made public ;)
  17. OleBM
    That's kind of a harsh thing to say. I consider creations with modified parts as having "the little extra" (but only if it's thouroughly made of course). And I think I speak for all us "customizers" when I say that we only customize parts if it will look/work/appear better than standard lego parts would
  18. OleBM
    I cut and glue pieces all the time. I am more than willing to go to past the "extremes" to achieve a full building potential. For example, in order to make a realistic gearbox, you will require a 28-teeth gear, which can only be found in this differential: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=73071 The solution? Let's say that you will need something sharp... Like a knife Why not just use towball connectors with short/long flexcables? I even made my own custom length flexcables once. I work in an industrial hardware store here in Norway, and believe me, Loctite is one of the best glues you can get. I've tried several different ones, but the "loctite 416" is the best. http://www.henkel.no/full-product-list-loctite-3912.htm?countryCode=no&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=000001FMT0 (norwegian site) This is specifically for plastic, and dries up in 10-20 seconds. It's so strong, that you easily can glue an axle into a round pin hole, without hope of ever removing it without damaging the parts.
  19. OleBM
    This works well if you disassemble it, and then use a thick needle to poke one or two holes in the round rubber dampening part. When you then assemble it, it will work as a real shock absober in a real car.
  20. OleBM
    The x873c01 is no doubt the best there is. It's more stable than the other normal wheel hubs.
  21. OleBM
    I like the minifig that's cleaning the IR-receiver..
  22. OleBM
    Aha, the thought of small pins didn't cross my mind. Nicely done though!
  23. OleBM
    Welcome to Eurobricks! How on earth did you manage that? I assume that is a real picture? I would think the only way to assemble this is to cut away the middle "ring" on the pins holding that wheelhub, allowing them to be pushed through the whole structure. But it would be next to impossible to dissasemble
  24. OleBM
    That is indeed cruel
  25. OleBM
    I think it's possible to pull out the red 2L axle with a needle or something, if you use the pinhole next to the black pin
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