OleBM

Sometimes, the most difficult parts to disconnect, is two PF wires connected together. These can be a real pain

Why would you even do that? But if you want a 2L axle in there, this is the way to go: 1. First insert one of the pins 2. Then insert the 2L axle 3. Insert (or rather; squeeze) the last pin in. TADAAAAH! If you want to insert a 2L pin AFTER both of the pins are in place, you have to pull one of the pins out 1L, then bending it to steer clear of the other pin, then insert the axle and push the whole thing back inside.

As for Barry's engine instructions, it does not matter if his instructions are for free. He has the "right of origin" (dunno what this is called in english). I can see out of his brickshelf account that he can clearly state that this is his work, meaning that no one may redistribute this without his approval. He even has pictures of his engine in well-known magazines, making this quite easy for him to prove

Everything you make, design, create, compose, etc. are protected by the laws of copyright as long as it is a registered trademark and you have proof that the "design" is yours. As the owner of the copyright, you're entitled to entirely control distribution of rights, including the right to decide general distribution.

I would pull one of them out 1 stud, and then simply bend it a bit, then pulling it out

This guy is obviously taking some VERY unethical shortcuts to making money. Do you have any kinds of trademark in your instructions on your site Paul Boratko? Because this is a massive violation against copyright rules..

Looks nice! But this will not work on a heavy vehicle. You will need panhard rods though, to keep the axle in place and from swinging side to side.

Flexcables work great for simulating leafsprings! Especially if you build vehicles that originally has supporting shock absorbers/coil springs. Then the flexcables only act as stabilizers, yet they simulate the excact movement of real leafsprings.

I remember the "black defiant" he made just before closing down his webpage. Pity we didn't see more of that car

Would Ivan and you be okay with posting the dropbox-link here? Because I remember when he had his website, I used to look a lot at those detailed pictures of his. I think many people would like to see them again

Don't forget the "Mag wheel master" http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=8417-1

You should ask nicjasno at LPEpower. He might have access to some pictures or something

I know that the official set that lego released back in the day ( http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=7261-2 ) had pendular axles. It also had a very simple type of steering which I don't know the word for in english, but you achieve steering to either side by simply tipping the whole model over to that respective side. This would maybe be worth looking into. The model itself don't have to be able to steer extreme curves, because after what I have read about this tank, ( http://scifipedia.wikispaces.com/Heavy+Assault+Vehicle%EF%80%A2+Wheeled+A6+Juggernaut ) steering was a bitch, and the tank was suitable for open terrain combat only

Wow! Nice Moc! As a star wars fan, I gotta say that this is very impressive! To avoid your wheels steering and bending when hitting an object, and transforming that into a suspended action, you could add a certain degree of caster angle to your suspension. And of course, you could try to use more rigid pieces. Studless liftarms longer than 9 studs tend to be quite "woobly" when clicked together without reinforcements.

It will work even better if you mounted those shock absorbers closer to the wheelhubs Then the axle itself won't bend so much when compressed, and you take friction out of the equation

Looks very nice! How does it work independently? Are both the springs connected to the same "pullrod" which then again is connected to each wheelhub? Or are they fully independent?

I too recently bought two XL motors, and noticed some differences between them. One runs smooth, and the other one has a more high pitched sound to it. However, in time, after many hours of usage, you can be sure that they will even out Oil is like acid for lego parts. The only lubricant that should be applied to Lego plastic and rubber is normal silicone spray. Not oil, not vaseline, not grease etc, but silicon spray. Everything else has traces of a petroleum-like substance, which eats through plastic and rubber given enough time.

I would save those parts for a rainy day (for a time when you actually need to cut or modify some pieces. That is, if you're info that sort of thing). With a heatgun you might risk making the surface of the parts "bubbly". That tends to happen if you're not careful with the heat.

That tender looks really strong zephyr1934! You've given me quite some ideas folks! I'll hopefully soon start with the actual build :-)

Looks badass!

Word!

Truth is, I've never tried the new PF train motor. In fact, I've never seen one in real life! I'm a little nostalgic, and the more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards the 9V... A friend of mine had a couple of these when we were kids, and they were great! These are also battery-compatible, even with the power functions battery boxes

Yeah I saw that steamer with the XL motor too! Cool way of mounting it. I really like steamers. I've thought about trying to build a big boy or something similar

Absolutely not. Everything I've ever built has a studded "basis". HOWEVER, studless building is very useful when it comes to many things. I recognize the functionality of studless parts incorporated into a bigger studded build.

Thank you for your answer! I have indeed thought about the normal PF motors (medium, or even XL motor). This would maybe result in a stronger train, but they take up considerable space. That modified 7727 sounds interesting, Do you have some photos or something?