Spitfire2865

Saving plastic? Choking hazard? Could it be an improvement somehow? Maybe Lego geometry works better with it shorter?

How much do you value your time as?

Could you post a picture? The only thing I think would have any similarity to what youre saying is the very old style of head which had a solid stud instead of the semi-open recessed stud.

An Energizer ad would be perfect. Haha.

Some Europeans dont use a comma for numbers over 999. they use a period. Sorta like 45,987 is 45.987

How big will the models be? You have to take into account how much the actual Lego will cost you. (Unless they give it back after the commercial, I dont know what the terms are for the commission) And just think of a price for an entire day of your time. How much is your day worth? Thats up to you to decide. And no I am not experienced with paid work, but just thinking about it, material and time costs, thats about it unless theres something I missed.

Its interesting. I think the tender is 1 or 2 plates too tall. Oh wait, nevermind.

Well yes, But motorizing a train is different from motorizing a vehicle, which I guess the Shellraiser is both, but I figured you would want it as a car more than a train.

Yeah, no. Not a lego switch. You might be able to fit a normal switch on the bottom from a tech store like Radio Shack or something. But that would require a lot of customizing of the PF elements. Maybe if you can fit it in one of the other cars. Thats really the only option I see.

Maybe he expects us all in the Train Tech to be experts on PF? Id look for help in the technic forum for information on PF.

Does he do printing over multiple bricks?

Hey, sorry for bumping, but I was just remembering these ladders and I could maybe use them. Are you still producing these? And could you do a custom length?

Maybe you could build a more sturdy brick base for the straights like you did on the curves.

I was just thinking. What you have done with these tracks is very similar to guard rails found on many bridges.

No real way to know for sure Im afraid. As the other topic on bricks cracking, it all has to do with climate, yet some people find nothing wrong with yearly climate change, even extreme ones. Though for your 9V equipment, Im sure the electronic parts are all fine. Though I have been wrong before...

Yeah thanks but I dont think that would work well. I need the doors on an outside hinge, not an inside one. Im thinking of doing them with standard clips and stuff, I just have to figure out the spacing of all the parts. But thanks anyway. If all else fails, I have this to fall back on. And as far as handrails, none on the car are white, so thats good. Though I did just order some white ladders. If I cant make ladders out of tubes, Ill use the pre formed ones.

Can you print working points? People can print workings guns so Id assume you can. Id love to see a set of points with this design. Lots of frogs. Haha

I think he meant more of a figuratively, what is the money spent on. Like why a set is so much more than just the cost of the parts at resale. I think its really mostly going to the image of the product. It says Lego on the box, which almost all over the world is a symbol of quality. Yet on the secondary market, such as bricklink, its already assumed its Lego, so the image is sorta not there.

Merchants Dispatch reefer WIP by Trevor B Young, on Flickr Still trying to figure out doors. I want them flush with the walls and openable. Need hinges... Merchants Dispatch reefer WIP by Trevor B Young, on Flickr A relatively pointless detail but Im happy I could do it.

Whats funny is I just realized I built these cars to a 1 stud=1 foot scale. Haha, honestly didnt know that. Sorta guestimated at the time because Im using the frame from one of my flat cars for this reefer. How do you delete posts?

I do need those 3 stripes down the sides as they are key for the look of the car I am modeling. (Its a white New York Central Merchants Dispatch reefer) I really just chose it because I have an N scale model of it and its white (a Lego color I have plently of)...yet somehow not enough plates to do the walls yet. Grr... My main problem now isnt really the roof as I can have that floating, its the problem with the bit of wall above the 6 stud door. With the wall design I have, I cant manage to fill that gap properly without ugly spaces. Also, there is a little horizontal door frame above the doors and Im afraid I probably will have to leave that detail out. Also, with snot walls, how exactly do I attach ladders and stuff? Those things would be easy with non snot walls. Ill try using those brackets rather than the headlights, though I may need to do a bit more fiddling with the measurements again. Yes I realize it will be heavy. An XL motor should be able to pull it though. I dont have much rolling stock to pull now anyway and if I ever finish my Modern American, it should look nice behind it. Thanks! I never downloaded LDD...Probably should. Exactly how did you attach the wall bits above the door openings? And it looks as if you indented the doors. Not sure what youre doing there but Ill figure it out. Yeahh...Thanks but the walls are 8 studs not 7. Im not sure if changing that will affect the dimensions and fitting but Ill try.

I actually did just that before, and the picture just came out as a link.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/89954298@N05/9149770394/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/89954298@N05/9147541505/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/89954298@N05/9147542849/ Forgive the cr@p photos, its past midnight here and Im too tired to get out my good camera. So yes, the walls. I want them to be secured in a way like this. I just have to figure out how to attach the doors, ladders, grab irons, and how to design the ends of the car while maintaining the vertical wood design. Fun! My biggest problem right now is how I can attach the bits of wall above the doors. There is 1 stud of wall above the doors and the 2 sides dont want to line up properly. If I cant figure this out Im going to have to give up and build studs up walls.

Actually, I have a frame already designed and built. I just have to figure out how to build the side walls in a way that they can work with normal studs up building. I should post a picture of the model so far. Maybe that would help.

Now that's an interesting item. It'll one day be worth both the Lego in it and the signatures.