Chilly

New 8 tooth gear? Picture/part number anyone? Also what is it for? And why? To replace 3647?

Ugh. I've got sets with blue connectors, but then the model is mainly blue too. What's wrong with black for friction and greyish for non-friction?

Please may I join too. (Although I have a feeling all the Technic sets have already been reviewd!)

What's with all the blue connectors? Looks daft to me.

Can't wait to try this, it looks great. Not going to see my lego for at least a week tho'. How will I survive?

When Lego was bricks, bricks, and bricks, plus a few bases, roof tiles,windows and doors, they sold parts not sets. I wish they'd go back to selling small boxes of one part like they did when I was a child. But I'm not going to hold my breath!

I'm new to EB, and even newer to Technicopedia, but like the others above, it's the text that grabs you by the throat and makes you want to buy what you've just read about. (Sorry bank balance.) In the space of an hour's reading I decided my collection would be complete only after I add two more sets - the Control Centre II and the Air Tech Claw Rig, plus a new set - the one everyone on here seems to rate (and it's the one the other half wants too) the Unimog. I'd previously dismissed the AirTechCR as being "not me", but after reading what it contains and the enthusiasm of Blakbird I've got to have it. Don't worry about updating the site, it teaches us history, and like history, things change. Use new technology in the next parts you write, but don't go backwards. Your writing style will bind it all together. I haven't looked at any of the renders, but do like the little animations, particularly of the gears. I just love the one showing the worm gear moving along the axle, then not moving when it is contained within the gearbox. These are the things that make it such a useful resource. There seem to be many experts on here who could help out with the techy side and take on some of the load, leaving you to spread your enthusiasm and knowledge more quickly.

None. But they changed all the phones in the building where I used to work - around 1,000. Wish I'd rescued a few more of the boxes, they're quite useful!

Yes. Eeek. Maybe I'll post the compressor. It's got a bit bigger, with a huge tyre for a flywheel, as the little cylinder was struggling I think they were phone boxes. There were hundreds being chucked out every day. Just the right size for a whole set and they fitted nicely into the toybox. Chinese takeaway, ice-cream, tomato trays. Yep anything recycled. Preferably with lids. They stack both with and without lids, and aren't too big. Compressor has grown, see comment above.....

Wow, you guys are so organised. This is where my lego lives in the winter This is where it lives when I'm actually playing And this is where it lives when I have to tidy up between play sessions

I've been looking to buy some pneumatic pumps that don't have the spring, so I can make a compressor. I mistakenly thought that some items on ebay were pumps because they only had one outlet, like the sprung-loaded pumps I already have, but having bought them, it seems they are cylinders! So, my question is: why and where would you use a single outlet cylinder. ( I have two sets that came with pneumatics, the 8462 Tow Truck and the 8455 Backhoe Loader, and although they have different style cylinders, they all have two outlets.)

Wow. Thanks all for your replies. Seems like I missed those instructions, but have now made a note for next time.

Thank you all for your replies. Seems like what was on Peeron is all there is. (Strange? how all the sites have exactly the same scanned pics. Now you've shown me those other sites, I'll never get any work done, lots more Lego to explore. Yippee.

I'm missing a couple of pages if anyone has an original and could scan them for me. The pages I have are from Peeron, but one page is there twice and I'm convinced others are missing as there's pictures of a shoveller, dumper and crane? but no instructions. Thanks

Two Questions: 1) Why do search"terms"have to be 4 letters of more? I want to search for a set numbered 850. What other character could I put in there? 2) Can you edit the Topic Title after you've submitted it? I didn't proof one properly, now can't search for it, coz it's only got 3 letters! Thanks

Anone know where i can find instructions for the compressor? (Not clever enough to work it out for myself. Yet?) It looks like good fun.

And finally, the changes I made to the top half of the cable car. ftp://readypedalgo.co.uk@213.171.193.5/htdocs/Lego/37%20mods.jpg ftp://readypedalgo.co.uk@213.171.193.5/htdocs/Lego/38%20mods.jpg I took a grinder to the inner flange of the two 8 tooth gears (that are between the motor and the top section),so they would sit closer together. (Naughty but necessary.) It runs very smoothly now.

Good Luck. I've just looked at the instructions for the other two models you mention, I can't see how the seats slide in the 8865, but it looks quite easy in the 8860, but I don't think there is enough space. Would love to see pics if you succeed. I made mods to mine the last time I made it, to make the attachment of the seats more secure. Before, every time I picked it up or moved it the seats would fall out. They only attached on one side and with only a couple of pips.

Well, the good news is that I persevered with LDD and have drawn up some of my changes. Does it always take longer to draw than to build in the first place? If yes, I might not bother again, although the alternative of taking photographs doesn't show up the changes too well. Anyway, here is the link to the changes on the lower section to accommodate the PF motor and IR, although I cannot get it to let me put the battery box in. It fits fine, but I guess the software thinks the space is too small.......... .html"]http://www.readypedalgo.co.uk/Lego/Building%20Instructions%20[Cable%20Car%20mods].html The battery box goes in by removing the two yellow bushes and axles, then threading the axles through the lower holes in the battery, and replacing the bushes. And finally, is there a way to put numbers by the axles? Haven't found it yet........ Thanks

So I've started to draw it using LDD and after 19 "bricks" I'm frustrated. Can't find 2 x 2 corner plate, 1 x 1 plate, 1 x 12/14 technic bricks. Going to give up and go for the next level. (Perhaps to be fair, I should have started by saying I Teach Photoshop and Corel, not just use them.) SR3D or MLCad ?

I've sorted it. Made some adjustments to the design. Now, how best can I draw it up? I have experience using PhotoShop and CorelDraw, but no Lego Design Software. Any suggestions please? thanks.

Oh ooh. I don't own any (yet), but as I have lots of the old instruction books that show them, I 've been thinking for a while that I should buy one. (Or two or more). Just looked at them on Bricklink, and don't like the blue ones, so looked at other colours. Seems like I like the most expensive ones - oops.

I built mine just before xmas and had same problem. I stuck a post-it on the instructions on step 9, page 43 that says: "Not long enough to allow boot to fully close, Needs a 1 x 2 hole (brick) at BOTH ends." Looking at picture now, I'm not sure whether I should have written 1 x 1 hole. Anyway, I remember fiddling around for ages with the length of that beam and did finally get it to open and close properly. Don't remember checking the axle position as mentioned above. I've now added another post-it to check that next time. Thanks.

Oh no, please don't get rid of the paper instructions. I build sitting on the lounge floor in front of the woodburner. I've got loads and loads of "computer" instructions, but the cost to print them at home is way higher than commercial printing, and also I suspect has a higher environmental cost too. If anyone has printed instructions they don't want they can always send them my way !!! Or do what most people do and recyle them through eBay or boot sales

Hiya Step 3 shows the two 8 tooth gears that mesh with the two crown gears shown in steps 4/5. The upright "bits" with the lift-arm on the right-hand side of step 5 move the axle with the 8 tooth gears from side to side, thus enabling forward and reverse - as shown by the top right hand pictures on page 35. I've got it all built, checked it, double checked it........ The bits don't seem to move the axle enough. I've looked at all my loose parts and other sets to see if I can work a better way round, but failing at the mo. I know I can get it to reverse by using the reverse button on the battery box, but that isn't the point. (My next step would be to swap the old style battery for the new PF one with a remote............ Hope that makes sense. Thanks Ann