weavil

This might be all I need to survive!

I posted way back in this thread a solution:

Well I only have like 10 blue arms so.

Here is what I got so far, but I'm reworking the chassis in LDD.

I am working on a car. Just a car with no branding. It's in the trial and error period, but work is progressing. Right now it my be a bit big, but we will see. It will have a V10, 8 speeds(?), some other functions as I go, and some RC functions too. Currently I have @Didumos69 modified gearbox so it would be a little more compact for my build.

Looking at the pictures, I'd just put "About 2,000 parts"

It's a wish that was shopped because someone wanted to make something with SNOT and needed to join plates to an axle hole on another part. That was a few years ago though.

I experimented with using the red frictionless gear and a rack on both sections so I could operate the sections separately, but added an extra to the boom pivot. I was able to make the 3 sections extend at the same time with the red gear and two gear racks. I will try to make a mock-up tomorrow.

I like paper cause I started long before digital, so it's more of the nostalgia for me. I don't dislike the digital versions, except for instructions that include a lot of brown. Some paper can be hard to see where to put brown on brown, but even worse with digital. What about people that buy Lego that don't have internet, live where they can't get internet, or have internet but share one computer/device with others in the house? People could also lose there place with digital or accidentally delete it and get mad cause they have to re download it. While it makes sense financially for TLG to drop paper, they would out customers and I don't think they would take a loss on a product just to keep the none internet customers.

Function is the same, but not form. The right one is a little transparent and has a slight recess around the axle hole. The left one is a little proud around the axle hole.

It would look like a giant mouth and all you would need is googly eyes.

I took a few pics of a couple12 tooth bevel gears I had. The old one is on the left and the newer is on the right. The left is darker and the right looks like not enough color was added and/or different compound, mold, or process.

See if you could get a replacement bucket then use both when you build it!

I just happen to think, are the sets/parts your testing/using from the same factory? Cause they have a few factories to spread out the work load. Like did they send some of the old molds to #2 and #3 and make new ones for the original factory? Not sure if it was mentioned, but the quality of the plastic could be an issue or the mold is wearing quicker then thought causing parts to be out of shape of sorts.

I want a Clarkson fig with a reliant raobin!

I was thinking this - or this - or my favorite - But it probably won't be one of there super crazy cars they made.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/ba/bc/af/babcaf26e1b292563d2f4c7506a6e9d5.jpg But then I found the post on Reddit https://old.reddit.com/r/Hookit/comments/7ylwfp/interspecies_tow/ Then I came across this crane http://www.roadrunnertowncrane.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_0769a-1024x536.png

The moving parts need to be able to snap together with rims and be able to be removed from those rims with lowish force. They could use "pressed metal" manufacturing, because it would be cheaper at high volume, but it would cause wear/deformation on the snaps on the part. Also as the part gets used, the snaps would flex and after so many they could break or no be able to spring back. Other metals could be used, but the cost per part would be higher as more labor is used and snaps could still break. Then there is the the wear on the plastic as it spins. With out lubrication each part would have to be super smooth. Either way, metal+metal or metal+plastic, one grain of sand and it will be on its way out quicker. Exactly. They paid for the set/parts and can do as they please. I or others might not like it, but it's not my problem.

The 42000 could be worth a look at. I have it and to me it felt stiff. There are F1/Indy car MOC's out there that you could look at too.

When looking at sets for me or my daughter, I always look at these points when deciding a sets value (except for basic type sets): Licensed: Is the set a licensed product? If so is it a big name like Harry Potter/Marvel? or not as big a name like Jurassic World? Complexity of Parts: Does the set have large parts like panels/boats/supports/animals? If so what size are those parts? How many of the large parts? Is it one T-Rex? Twenty Technic panels? One small paddle boat? Are the large parts easy to make (like a 2 or 3 piece mold)? Or are they difficult to make (like a 5 or 6 piece mold)? Printed: Do any of the parts have printing on them (other then regular figs)? How many of the parts are printed on? Is it a little bit like a 1x2 tile or is it a lot like a big animal/creature/figure? Pre-Assembled: Does it have any pre-assembled parts? Are they simple or complex assemblies? Are they small or big? How many does it have? Design: Did the set take a few months to design? Did it take 10+ months to design? There will always be a debate about the value of a set. A collector will not worry too much over price. A builder will look at what parts they get for their money. A person who plays with the set will look at how many functions/entertainment they will get for their money. Right now we can use Bricklink to assess the the value of set, sans new parts for that set/year.

This is so cool! I knew where future money is going to go (at some point). Looking at that link I seen this cool tool: cause some of my blue 3L pins can be tight.

3-in-1 works ok for the turn tables (old or new). Used it on my old and new ones and they spin great. I had the same problem with mine; free spins fine, but spin it with pressure and it was stiff. I think I used a butter knife (or similar) to pop it apart to put 3-in-1 oil in it easier and it spins fine now.

Well started working on it late then my schedule started filling up.

I didn't think to flatten out the foot deck, but most real ones have a raised or textured pane/plate so you don't slip. It's not motorized, so it moves/turns however you like. Thanks.

So after about a year (or more) out of building, I went looking for something to build. I wanted to try and build something that wasn't common like a car, truck, or typical construction stuff. I thought riding mower, but that had been done with good or better skill. Then I thought zero turn mower! I looked and the Technic models I found did not look great or was someones C-model of a newer set. Well I had made up my mind! A zero turn mower I will make! It took longer then I liked for, not being in the game for a while, but I eventually shook of the rust and got back into the flow. The mower is some what based on a Snapper ZTR mower because of the wheels I had. This one is the third build, because I kept having a time getting the drive and chassis right for it to function like a mower. The mower has a V-Twin engine, triple blade deck, deck height adjustment, and a lever to engage/disengage the blades. The hardest part of the build was working out getting a clutch in there to engage the blades and working out the belts. Lego's "rubber bands" were too short/tight to use so I used two old o-rings for when I rebuilt my transmission. Enough rambling and onto the pictures! If you need higher resolution here is the folder with the pictures.