Lazarus

Good one SnapLock There is a store on trademe that sells the Enlighten stuff really cheap, if you in west auckland shop is called bag a bargin in Avondale. Forgot about that stuff coz i dont use PF good one.

This is mine, just missing the end scectiion what is a WIP, about 5m x 2m

I feal what you feal :-) Bricklink is where i get mine but you looking at around $5nz per streight. But I buy 9v track so I cant order when I do the LUG order. Also our LUG order has aready been done this year. Not sure about the Christchurch LUG if you are in south Island try and talk with them. But most of us all run 9v track. for 40 stregihts you looking at about $300nz maybe more deppending on where you getting them. Wellcome to the high cost of lego train track, I have 140 streights on my layout and that broke the bank a little.

Ohh ya sorry guys in the pics i laybeld the motor PF when it should be RC, sorry had PF on my mind. But the RC and PF look the same and the same mod needs to be done on both. But yes PF internals all the way. only RC if thats what you have to work with.

Suspect running a stock 9v and modded PF 9v would course issues at some point with the stock 9v, due to the PF is faster and has more torque. Performance is hard to tell speed wise but pulling power is better. I dont know what the % difference is between the 9v and PF but i dont think it is huge. Motors go from good to bad 1.PF 2. 9v 3. RC, this is based on RPM and torque, Would not know about life but I would suspect 9v is the most reliable as with more old electronics it was just made better back then. From testing I have no ill effects from the mods, but I have my Lego show coming up in October and that will be the trial 3 days of constant running will test these motors out.

yes, i need the + to go towards me on the photo and the - to go on the far end so they are crossed. This only effects the direction of the motor. Pic updated

Link to the RC fix tutorial http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=91724

Hello All. There is some talk at present about my right up I did for replacing the 9v internals with the PF internals. This fix works perfectly fine, but some people have some of the older RC motors around and by no fault but my own. I ordered one by mistake so I thought I would try the same fix out with the RC motor. For this 9v motor i did not need the PF cable and it is not a dual motor train, so the cons of the RC motor does not matter for me in this case. But to all who does not have any RC motors around and are looking at buying the RC or PF motor to fix an old 9v I would recommend always the PF motor over the RC. 1. The motors have been removed out of their housing, note the differences in the motors very slight but due to these we need to mod. 2. Now we want to remove some access plastic that will stop the motor sitting flush on the bottom of the 9v housing and also make it fit snug without modding the housing. 3. After being cut. note the plastic is very hard and will be a lot of work with a knife and maybe cost a finger. I recommend a cutting bit on a dremel. 4. Now with the motor installed, solder the two wires to the power pickups and do a test fit and run with a stranded 9v motor to make sure the direction is the same. If not just swap the wires around on the power pickups. Test Videos

no not that easy , u need to trim down the PF motor to make it fit the 9v case. Watch my videos it tells all. Also the thermistor is not a big deal, if you lose it it just stops the over heat cut out. Just compared the 9v internal with the RC internal and it wont be a swap. You need to do the same mods to the internal motor as i show in my video, The RC and PF internal motor casing are if not the same. So you can use a RC or PF internal motor to fix the 9V but minor mods needed and its only matter is sanding down some bits. The fix can be done for ether but for performance I would always recommend the PF internal over RC.

yes that is a PF motor with the cable Also will be working on the RC motor fix today some time and i will let u know how it goes all

I could do with doing some better videos at some point. But at present I have my HE with 4 motors in it and lights. each power car has a 9v with a PF motor, with the internal 9v motors replaced with PF internals. Yellow cargo with 9v and PF motors and the 9v with internals replaced. Would only recommend using a repaired 9v motor with PF motor in tandem with PF motors are these are the most powerfull out fo the 3 types and you will end up killing the PF motor if if it has to push a normal 9v around. About to do a 9v internal replace ment with an older RC motor (out of the 8866) to see if the change over is any easyer. But this motor in question is for a single motor tran so if the speed is diffrent than a PF motor no matter. The RC motors are the worse out of all 3 types for power so not a recommend swap and only if u had alot of these around to use. PF motors are in large surply at present and cheap.

My right up a few months back with a fix, I have since done all my faulty 9v in this way and no issues. http://www.eurobrick...topic=83667&hl= Would be good if any one in Admin could put this link somewhere as this questions comes up a little. If made this to help everyone out and save people some $$$ on buying working 9V motors.

chnage my mind I will by both locos but more the passenger now, the freight looks ok the train is a buy but the trucks not so much. That stashion is a big no no that is just crap.

If you like the EN, check out my Moc of my Flying scottsman what was based on EN design and heavly modded to look like what Lego where trying to copy. An A3 LNER Loco.

I agree with Murdock I love LDD also, have have done some very nice models in it once you know how to use it and get past some of the resricshions the software gives you. And thanks did not know about the bigge wheels, I might be able to use these XL ones to make my A4 Paciffic look a little better.

They look ok but not there best, the last few trains have been better. Was keen to by but i might only get the freight one the HS one looks naff.

train shed will get you about 3-400 maybe more in old dark gray as parts are rare.

I though most of the fixes where in the Railbricks books, just put rail bricks into google. There is a fix to stop the main drivers binding up in there. I also found removing the rubber ring around the front wheels and rear (small train wagon wheels) reduce drag also. Once i did these to i went from two 9v motors over heating pushing this train to one have no issues at all.

Cant wait for pics of the new trains, always need more haha. Station not that bothered about. I have the most resent and also the yellow grand Station from the 90s and I dont use ether on my layout me station on my layout is 5500 pieces and its not even that detailed. But will await those pics of the new trains. Yay for 2014 and new trains go lego keep the trains going.

Not bad I like it.

I run 9V so dont need to worry about battery. The main issue was the coaches pushing the loco and to tenders it did not work right. This should fix it, not sure about two tenders now with the extra lenth on the tender. I will find this out soon just waiting on a few parts to finish up then i will have a look. Will look at two motors but i dont think they will fit.

OK guys well working on a A4 this week and when I complete I will pass around the Lxf. As this is not my design and I am copying it with some minor changes to the loco I cant sell it and I will need to get the OK before handing it around. I will be close to Carl Greatrix design.

Some of the best a4s http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/275739 But very hard to reproduce with out more detailed pics. If the makers are around eurobricks I would love them to send me some more pics so I can reproduce for all these other people in LDD.

I have a flying Scotsman in my brick-link store. but i mostly do British diesels. You will find a lot of the guys dont design with LDD and just build from parts so they dont normally have plans for a lot of the amazing trains around.

EN was ok but needed improving to really look like the Flying Scotsman what i have since done and now happy with the model. I know lego need to keep the bricks down but the stock EN had so many running issues and look issues. A4 is something I have been trying to get right for 2 years now very hard body shape to do. I know some have done this already and they look really nice but I have been unable to replicate one to there quality yet. Would be nice if they put the plans out or more detailed pics on how they are made. This is what i do now If i manage to make something I put the plans up as i know its a real pain when you want something someone has made and cant do it yourself.