steph77

Ok for the tan parts. For the rest it is not the virtual model that i want to change, but the real life model. I'll have a try at rebrickable for searching the parts.

Oups. I mises that. Sort. This automatic speed correction is a great stuff. Then! Thx

Hello, Big model... Won't you experience powersupply issue ? 8 XL motors is quiet a lot for one BB. And if you have differents sources, how can manage the eventual difference of power of the different sources (=different speeds at Wheel in final)?

Hi all, First i finished the LDD model. I experience prblems when trying to post it at Mocpage. Somme of Java issue i think. I'll tell you as soon as i manage to solve that. Second, i need your help. As some of you my know i am daltonian. This mean, for me, that i experience troubles in color perception in particular in the shade of grey/blue and green sperctrum. I would like to convert my 911 in blue. The only blue fender panel i know are those of the car transporter truck. I do not own it. So, i would like to ask you if, in this shade of blue, the other neccecery parts exists (panels, flex rods, angle connectors. As i cannot be certain of the exact shade of blue, i would need the reference of sets that use the same shade of blue parts. I use photoshop to realize this picture, wich is hopefully the good shade of blue (tell me if i am wrong) Here is what i would like to do: I also would like to realise a Tan color interrior. Does the panel use for seats exists in this color? Thanks for your help.

I am drawing this Under standard LDD… I assume that even without thos fender, everyone who want to build this will achieved it easily.

For those who asked me: New fender panels doesn't exist actually. But ok, WIP. Still need some days to complete.

Did you try to add a 1/2 bush Inside your shock absorber? Do like below with yellow ones. Must solve your issue Simply.

Thanks all. I will make one LDD for parts list and mybe a 'challenge ' instructions base on only 3 pictures, could be fun. Let's go for a mini. Blue color would be a great mix with the 911. Had to command some parts now...

On your pictures, it seems to me that the rear wheel pop up largely out of the fender. Maybe it's a perspective issue. I would enlarge them if the 2/3 of the tires weren't under the fender. If the tires already fit Under the fender , it's ok.

Sorry, this model was from 2015... And it has already been disassembled

This will be the last version for this one. After publishing it at french forum Techlug, some members give me a go for modifying both front and rear parts. Here is the final result: New front design, compressed by two studs and recolored supports New rear design too. Added the curve beginning right behind the rear wheel Seen from the rear. The whole design has been reviewed in order to remove flimsy parts. Sturdy designed par now: more accurate engine detail (removed the fan for a pulley) And this is off for this one. I now will begin another car at that scale. So funny (and tricky) to build. Maybe a Mini, or Fiat 500, still don't now. Steph

Hi! This is way better with the cab growned by one stud! I love the global render of your tractor, very credible. Agree with you, counterweight would be better in green though. I also would enlarge the rear fender by one stud (extend the green part of them). Last thing, this model has a strong identity, i could tell this is your design event if seen without knowing it's yours at first, and this is a great achievement according to me

hi, Here is mine, very similar to your first design, not that much technic frame in fact. and the 'final product' The important thing to now is that they are bogies at the lower part that guide the tracks. All the weight of your future excavator applies on these small wheels. Therefore, you have to build a structure specifically strong from the turntable to thes bogies, all the rest could be 'deco'. Steph.

Take 04 Thanks to @Thirdwigg and @johnnymI now get a serious headache, thanks mate. I completely rethought my approach on this project. What has be done? - I take the roof up by one stud, - I found a way to fix the front A pillar one stud up, - I equilibrate the global line to get a flat line just at fenders level, and perfectly aligned - I review the front fenders, getting out with the gaps that were subsisting - I designed new seats and add a dashboard, getting a credible line for the front windshield - I remove the panels that where the main part of the roof as they where not that credible and compatible with the real design of that car. I add a rear windshield... - I build one rear motor hood that support the rear spoiler, as in real life - I do some recoloring job everywhere, getting off with blue pins and replacing them by black ones, -I review the lower parts of front and rear fenders to achieve the bodywork in the lower zone And finally, after hours of some tricky work to find right angles and fixation points: I think I capture correctly those hell curved lines Detail of the, rear windshield and engine cover: Once opened: And from the front POV, with the new front fender design: New seats and credible inner space (the suppression of the roof panels give more inner space in the cab the front and rear views: So, now my headache is gone, any new idea or comments? Thanks all for support, without you guys I would have let that project down way too soon

Thanks for comments and advise Ok let's go, I worked yesterday evening on the front end, trying to get It with one more stud. The look is quiet different, moving to some kind of older Porsche's design.after tons of differents attempts I came out with one cool design I think. I also worked back on the doors with rear view mirror support integrated to the door structure, I also add some slopes giving more accurate curve to the bottom end of the door. This add fluidity to the overall design. Next I redesign the rear spoiler and add a cooling fan on the upper part of the engine. I also secure the front axle support. Pictures: front axle secured: cooling fan connected to transmission rear view, new spoiler: the new cam shaft and engine valves. no axle can get out So, opinions? Steph

Take 02 Slowly Moving to a full orange livery. Worked on @Thirdwigg advized comments and first attempt at rear end What has changed: - New headlight desigh - New orange livery - New camshaft of 1/2 stud offset (in place of one stud travel) for the engine: smoother and now the camshaft do not touch the ground anymore - Rear end first sketch design - Reinforcement of the chassis Pictures:

I'll try to implement all your advized imput :) The axle of the engine are perfectly secured and Don't fall down even if i shake strongly the model. I made use of an axle you can see on top of the engine ( in light grey ) that stop the movement of the 'valve'. This way the space let by the valve is just enough for the axle to be moved by the shaft and just not large enough to get the axle in it's place.

Well done! I am ok with the global philosophy of your project. It is a good idea to keep it manual, all benefit for the design. And it is very well designed! I particulary like the front Hood and the headlight integration I have just a point that could be upgraded according to me. It is in link with the model scale.: The steering wheel is way too large for this tractor... And, second, i Wonder if the cab size wouldn't be better with one (or two?) stud(s) more in height. At least, wouldn't you place front mudgards? Steph.

Flat Six symphony - Nine Eleven Wip project. The main difficulty is to find a way to built a flat six engine in the scale of the 42093 set. I do find one way to: Main design is there. Need some recoloring thought. opening elements: What is your opinion? To be continued..

5: 10 2: 6 4: 4 1: 3 7: 2 8: 1

Thanks! it does ;) @MajklSpajkl Here is the link you asked me : https://www.shapeways.com/product/QXZK3R5P7/lego-technic-bucket

@mpj I answer you in my own topic ;) @Hurri , I ask myself if the track length wouldn't be better with 2 studs more in each front/rear way and with one stud more in width both sides?

I used a IR receiver located in the understructure. This mean there is a cable going through the turntable, yes. This cable is long enough to provide up to 4 complete rotation before experimenting troubles. 4 rotations are largely enough for a normal use , simple need to be a little precautionous when using it ;) I evaluate for a long time the differents options, event if it is not the cleanest one it has its plus and cons. What decided me to use this setup was not that much the gain of free space but the fact that when rotating, the turret was source of parasite move of the tracks when rotating. Steph

Hi! Where are you going to locate the battery box? On my own ECR, i had to move the motors for tracks to the undercarrige in order to get enough place for both battery box and IR receivers. And my ECR is way bigger than yours... Steph

Time for my latest excavator to get it's own video. Enjoy!