Johnny P

I use my leatherman for all tricky situations.

I am currently working on a tr tr cours to.I made this bridge in lego.When flat its easy but when raised its difficult.It can carry about 3kg and it can cross 1 m .It holds 2 xl's and 2 LA's. You have also given me some great ideas. My next project will be stairs with adjustable heigth of the steps.So it can be made easy and difficult .My goal is to make a course for beginners and pro's in one.

i have tried this at home for myself and indoor the performance is tesame. The rubber is lees sticky but the contactpoint is smaller and there is more pressure on that point. Outside in dirt i found it was better . For indoor tr tr its worse. Its to small for it. Just my findings. Grtz johnny

Nice mod .I also did this a while ago,but just a litlle more .Mine has 6*6 drive by xl-motor.Steering with medium. 4 mediums for the four functions off the crane. 3 PF receivers. Larger crane . Pictures in my brickshelf folder. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=515598

when i get a new xl motor in my hands i Always open it and put a few drops of oil inside the planetary gear boxes. this way they are much more quiet and i think more efficient.

here's the story of grum64. its truly amazing the things he does.much respect for this man. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=67664&hl=grum64

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=523552

at the moment i am also working on something special. i don't think it has done before in lego. a log yarder.

i made 9998 of the number of supporters

hey frederic your moc looks really nice .a nice detail would be that the steeringbar also turns when the wheels turn.but thats just detail. and i think for trial your speed is a little high for precision driving. i also see that you are using diffs. are they limited slip or lockable in a way?because otherwise diffs are not done in trial. another problem for the belgium outdoor trial is that when you use 2 XL motors for drive you MUST use 2 bat boxes.

here's one of mine.

i also think we wil get it in black . and do you mean the part right in front of the fourth axel mounted verticaly?

to everyone that is crying about the fact that the boom uses la's instead of pneumatics . dismantle everything that has to do with the la's and mod it by placing a compressor and valve on that gearbox exit. mount 4 pneumatic cilinders under the boom and you have a magnificent crane.i dont have any problems with the la's. they work great, are strong,maintains position when loaded or not loaded. but thats just my opinion. grtz Johny

hey Pat-ard the total width is 19 studs. i dont own the unimog so i don't really know. but for a unimog you may want to remove a few axles since it will have to be a drawbar trailer then. and since my computer knowledge is nihil and posting pictures is al i can at the moment .making an ldd with not happen soon. sorry for that.

more fotos will be public probably tommorow i managed to fit in the trailer . a servo for steering and a medium + gearbox for function 1 : ramps on back off the trailer operated by 1 mini la. function 2 : 2 mini la that acts like feet on the front off the trailer . i used tesame wheels as you except my trailer is 13 studs wide between wheels.

when using an extra pf receiver to steer the wheels of the trailer you will also have to use a different channel than the one you use for steering your truck because again you will not be able to drive backwards. the best way(in my opinion) to steer the wheels of the trailer is linking them to the fifth wheel. maybe in a smaller scale than 17.5 like my trailer you could use a mechanical way of linking them. but in scale 17.5 it is not possible because there is to much slack in the connections you have to make. and the trailer will never come back in line with the truck after cornering. i used a pf switch and servo in my trailer. i connected the switch to the fifth wheel and this way it always steers the trailer in the right direction. fotos can be found by following this link. grtz Johnny http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=520119 fotos 38 and 41 show the simple system best.

i am also pretty sure that when you connect it to a rc truck you can not drive backwards with this way of steering . the truck will push the rear trailer wheels in the other direction then you want to drive. i just made a semi lowloader with six axxes that al steer with a different steering angle by using 1 servo motor. i tried lots of different ways to steer the axxes but this was the only way it works proper when its loaded with a crane or something else. grtz Johnny

my trailer is hooked on with a towball and socket. works well for me and moves in every direction you want and looks realistic. but now i am looking for ideas on how to build a remote controlled fifth wheel hitch . not automatic . remote controlled. @ legotechnicblue sorry for hijacking your topic but its in the same theme i suppose? grtz Johnny

for the moment we also have snow in belgium . and if in the uk the snow is tesame as over here the snowscooter will be to noseheavy. it will sink in the snow unless you go on snow that is allready compressed by something else. grtz Johnny

my guess is gravity. grtz

tatra uses independent suspensions on all there models. grtz

don't fix it! in real life the pto of some tractors also turns a little bit without anything mounted on it. grtz

i made one REALLY fully rc. 1 xl drive 6*6 1 m steering 1 m outriggers 1 m main boom 1 m second boom 1 m turning crane 3 receivers 1 battery box http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=515598

i also have the telehandler.i motorised it and there is the same problems with mine . so it must be a design problem. but it also cant lift anything.and the steering is terrible so i will take it apart for parts i think.

what are the dimensions this hauler will be in the end? what scale are you working at? nice work so far. it's looking great