Johnny P

Efferman. you also dont have the ability to skid steer. or you have to use switches and servo for every side . But then the connectivity problem comes back.

4kg max as some claim here.

and when do you start choosing mocs for MoM? just to know when to art posting mocs?

maybe then Jim can decide to, take a moc from a month earlier when there is nothing to put on the FrontPage. but then again its maybe becoming complicated?

Hey Jim. As you stated before. keep it simple. So no categories , just one moc a month. A place in the hall of fame doesnt come for free. You have to earn it.so al of the less skilled builders as myself. Keep on building , learning and one day maybe you will get a spot in the Hall. And if never , don't cry , you've had fun didn't you? that's what lego is about . Grtz Johnny

I would be willing to do the tests. But i also don't own any of the older red joints. Grtz Johnny

I think this can't be so difficult to test. just make a little device were you can lock one side of the joint and put a lever on the other side. Then ad weight to the lever and see when the joint pops/cracks. Then tesame for the other joint and you will have a good indication of wich is stronger and How much stronger. Downside is that you will also have 2 broken joints.

Or Sariels pneumatique difflock. When the mindstorm detects to much difference , it automaticaly locks the dif pneumaticaly. This would be so real. Great idea Andythenord

This last idea is the most usefull imo. Agread it takes up some space, but when needed it really locks. And if you want to have more free play before it locks,just gear the "lock" down. The Solutions with the clutch gear and rubber bands is not so good imo . when you take turns there allready is some friction to overcome,so power loss and diff working loss. Also when enough power is used , you can still stop one wheel .

i am not saying that his video is fake. but something could be helping the car to rol .like a little slope or so. and as you can read a couple of posts back . i will be trying this ,this weekend. and with the same amount of pressure that allows you to move the car, with less pressure you can stop the lego car. but as this is an endless discussion , lets just leave it at this. grtz johnny

@Blackbird The weight of the car is resting on the tyres. So they generate friction.Because it are rubber inflatable tyres.Not cast iron wheels. So i believe they create enough friction to keep the car from getting pulled by a lego car.

If you look at an event were there are gbc displayed, there is almost always White dust at the rotating parts. Tis comes from wear and tear. Lego will not put something on the market that will destroy itself. thats my guess Grtz Johnny

Or buy the tyres on bricklink. The wheels are tesame as you have now. Grtz Johnny

Hey skriblez if you are willing to come to Belgium with your atv , i will provide you 2 fully loaded trucks. 44ton a piece. And i drive a suv. This weekend i will try to pull with my 8x8x8. Just for the fun of it .

@ skriblez. 1. You can even mount a winch on your atv that pulls 6000kg ,it doesn't mean your atv can pull that. 2. For comparison. Lego 4kg times 225 is car 900 kg Atv 400kg times 225 is 90.000kg . Do you think your atv can pull 90 ton on tyres, not on railroadtrack cause thats a completely different story. maybe i should do the test with my 8x8x8. its much slower because it only has 2xl's( belgian truck trial rules) but it also has enough power to spin all 8 wheels when you hold it.just need to find a small car cause my car weights 2400kg. ps: this not an attack at anyone , its just my mind that tells me to be sceptic about it. Grtz Johnny

I like the idea of 2 categories. This way everybody gets a chance.excluding pro builders isn't fair imo. but how do you define if a model is pro or normal? does it depend on size,how many pieces,or do you look at the person to determine wether its pro or normal? for technic tags. Maybe something in the line of smal gear for normal and larger for pro? Or a liftarm and size depends on level of building?just thinking out loud here.

like dr-spock says . waiting and presenting your moc in a month that guys like sheepo/ vfracingteam/sariel/bricksonwheels/ to name a few.don't present one of their mocs really gives you more chances. Otherwise the "less gifted" builders (like myself) never get a chance of becoming Mom. Unless you're a girl but thats a different kind of Mom. this Mom will encourage me to post my moc's. And maybe others to.

i am a little sceptic about this "car towing". I don't believe that some toy ,that only weights 3 / 4 kg can pull 900 or so kg. if the car is on a small slope maybe. so i would like the see a video without editing where you pull the car forward an then backwards , without replacing the real car. for offroading this thing really rocks and has lots of power and it looks great to. Congrats on this beast.

I have a suzuki samurai for offroading. The rear axle has permantly locked diff. The front axle has a automatic one. When the front axle gets power from the drive axle it locks. When you disengage the power to the frontaxle it opens.this is purely mechanical ,nothing electrical about it. I just put my gearbox in 4x4 or 2x4 and it engages or disengages. don't know How the internals work. But it is a EZ locker.

Looking forward to this superawesomeamazing rc supercar . But right now al i hear is a lot of blabla .

I really like both. Nice design and good performance. what i like the most is your replica off rough terrain. Great idea . I must use it in my trial course. maybe i will use the crawler to. Thanks for the idea. Grtz Johnny

I really like How you made this. I don't think that the clutch gears will live long this way.but there are plenty of them out there . just maybe if there is room you could motorize the cabin tilt and it will be really finished. All and all really nice excavator.

I don't really care what TLC comes out with. If i like IT i will buy it , if not i won't. Thats How simple it is to me. i love to take the little pieces and put (or try) something together that pleases me. More than half of the sets i own , i have never build. I don't like to follow the stupid books that tell you what to do next . Everything that i make has to contain motors. And the more the better. In my opinion. I don't like to turn the knobs to make something move. I would like that TLC created more parts like gears and diffs , suspension pieces, wheels, planetairy hubs,.... My 2 euro's Grtz Johnny

Yes 2 xl's is maximum for batt box. Or you have to bridge the thermal fuse.

4l-motors is less power than 4 xl-motors. I think he wants real power. Sorry for the double post but edit button doesn't work on my phone. SHE wants real power.