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1gor

Eurobricks Grand Dukes
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Everything posted by 1gor

  1. 1gor
    Generally speaking manual models (that I make) are smaller and lighter (no batteries) and motorized are bigger ... But as time goes by I try to make simpler models even with power functions.
  2. 1gor
    This version is better with typical LEGO engine
  3. 1gor
    This first thing that comes toy mind is "custom" build with soft axles, but then you need HOG. Years ago I worked with big Honda fan who had civic like the one from Fast and Furious (first) and few houses away from him, his childhood green had S2000. Why am I bothering you with that is because S2000 had very small steering wheel less that 320mm in diameter but with airbag inside and he said it is additional sporty steering wheel by Honda as he ordered it in saloon. Perhaps this info can be usefull to you. Pardon me, but I did not notice the scale of this (extraordinary realistic) MOC; perhaps I have misread it somewhere...
  4. 1gor
    It looks really nice; but don't you think that smaller steering wheel will suit this MOC better?
  5. 1gor
    ...but then I'll have to redesign whole chassis just behind front wheel in order to make it stiff enough for front loader. By adding extra parts it will be more heavy and turning cycle will increase. My goal with this second version is to make it lighter and to save some parts. Linear actuators are IMHO a bit unusual for 3 point hitch so I decided to make pneumatic version....
  6. 1gor
    ...and if I made Volvo with a little bit of orange it will look like Bee
  7. 1gor
    Looks cool my friend. It is like much much improved 42070 set (in red) Few years ago I thought to make something like this but Tumblers were to expensive at that time so I decided to make Unimog. (Sorry if it is to much off-topic) Regards
  8. 1gor
    I hope that it will enable us to use portal axle hub from Unimog too, so we can have pivot point closer to center; by my perception maximum one stud... but I know that you'll inform us asap
  9. 1gor
    thank you my friend; as you know with age comes wisdom and I have some ideas in my head, but need at least 2 hours of peace to test them... Thanks buddy (thankfully not Bundy ) I was thinking on making some adjustments in order to lead linkage almost parallel to suspension arms and make some gear rack holders based on this liftarm... https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32140&idColor=85#T=C&C=85 ...and use perpendicular connectors to connect gear rack to it...
  10. 1gor
    Pneumatic cylinders and big linear actuators have metal structure inside, so it is combination of metal and plastic, beside that human kind produces so much plastic that it is better that plastic stays in LEGO than to have plastic food
  11. 1gor
    The main problem with Syn-trac is Tatra-like suspension; since model is (realistically) narrow, I have problem with to big steering rack or to long linkage...
  12. 1gor
    Thanks. If I'll manage to finish it this week I'll start to rebuild Loadall...so far I have made bases for 560-80 and 504-I3 but smallest will be new version featuring 3 cylinder engine and will be based on 49.5 tires. Bigger Loadall chassis will be redesign by using frames mainly... There is also one other project that is in phase of chassis optimisation - Syn-trac. Regards
  13. 1gor
    Dear members of Eurobricks forum, as you can see spaghetti work is finished for major part of pneumatic system; after I finish cab a d engine compartment I'll replace rear small pneumatic cylinders with medium size from 8455 set. Cab pillars are in place and I hope that at May the 1st I'll have more time for building. So far I'm very happy with amount of parts saved from last build so I'll have enough yellow axles for JCB Loadall which will be priority Ater I finish this one... ...note that (so-far) have only two yellow dishes 6x6 Any comment is welcome
  14. 1gor
    About engine, I prefer inline 6 and not V8...
  15. 1gor
    Outriggers are really original, and I like simple and sturdy chassis build. Real one does not have central differential and no portal axles, so I prefer your design.
  16. 1gor
    @keymaker I meant exactly what @Zerobricks posted. Thanks @Zerobricks
  17. 1gor
    It could be solved with using 3l liftarms that have axle hole at the end and thus part mounted just side by side if the wheel https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=27940&idColor=85#T=C&C=85
  18. 1gor
    On last image first solution to the left is best compromise, other "hub" solutions tend to fall apart in outer direction...
  19. 1gor
  20. 1gor
    @MangaNOID I have a plan to make more JCB machinery in future and one of them is JCB Excavator, but for now I'm Concentrating on systems tractors and telehandlers... Regards
  21. 1gor
    I hope that you are right. Your work on pneumatic excavator gave me idea to make my Fastrac with pneumatic 3 point hitch. I can not complain on one thing - I would make it yellow. Regards
  22. 1gor
    Very nice how you managed to camouflage battery box IMHO looks like SLT truck version. Kind regards my friend
  23. 1gor
    Great recap; I can just suggest that people put one 94.8x44 R balloon tire inside CLASS tire if they want use futuristic wheels because wheel is 6 mm more narrow than racing wheel medium. I look at this like Old Testimony, New will be with New Hub from 42099 set
  24. 1gor
    That is deffenetly step forward, but there is a long way to go; lepin is not the only one...
  25. 1gor
    Ladies and gentlemen, please do not get me wrong; @Idrissince you are relatively new member I want to point you also that there is already topic that could be used for this matter I do not want to sound or even act to be (just example) @Jim, but IMHO we should first look more detailed on Eurobricks to see if our question fits in some topic instead of starting new one which happened to be a kind of subtopic... Regards to you all
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