Ryokeen

I see, should work fine. As i said could be a timing issue(when to "activate" which coils). But as an advice..you should now be that close on your amp limits of the ESC as the motor stats (except kv) are not always that correct. But from what i've read i would assume that they use special timing/startup mode or even some weird encoded sensored data so other motors might just not work properly

Should be cross-compatible but stuff like timings might be different for each motor/brand. Also(not sure what exact ESC and injora motors you have, think it's a 1721 and that is quite a bit smaller) it could be that even a 2435 motor draws to much current and some protetion kicks in.

The number of teeths is independant of the shaft size. What matter is the tooth "spacing". Lego uses a module 1, so a pinion with module 1 with 12 teeths will be the same size as a lego 12t gear and mesh just fine. You can get 12t(or more) module 1 gears both for 3mm shaft or 5mm. So as with lego gears it all depends on what gear ratio you want. From my experience 12t were easiest to fit as you can mesh them with a 20t and have 1 stud space between to have place for motor mounting support.

On light models that is to be expected my tiny 1:18 crawler has full bearings and stops from full throttle to stand still in less than a sec just when going into neutral..not enough mass for inertia to overcome the motors internal resistance. Also the mentioned "Running break" might be a problem, commonly it's named "drag break" and applies some break in neutral. Crawlers use that a lot to stay in position without any throttle.

@gyenesvi great little model. As i happen to have a rc crawler in that scale (1:18) i would say, don't worry much about shocks. At that scale they can be oil filled but mostly aren't as you need a very thin oil and that won't then do much. 2nd as a fun addition, crawlers mostly got counter rotating shafts to reduce torque twist. So the back and front driveshaft rotate in opposite directions. Maybe you find space integrating it, just an idea. Anways awesome little model.

That's not a 6s capable motor, 4s at max but most likly 3s. 6s motors commonly start at 42mm diameter and at least 5mm shaft. Even if your esc can handle 6s the motor won't(at least not for long). And yes at you can read here in the topic even 2s will be a challenge with lego. Remember brushless motors got a lot more punch than brushed ones and the initial torque tends to rip everything build with lego only apart. In my opinion the 2 most important things are: Metal Axles and a good way to connect them Bearings to prevent molten plastic even with metal axles. That includes wheelhubs with bearings

From my experience, if you twist aluminium axles, the carbon ones will just splitter away. They have great bending strenght, but torsional they are way weaker than aluminium axles. @Knott Try to avoid long (unsupported) axles, or try to reinforce them with some stoppers or other parts(i have some weird 2l connectors that don't have a stop in the middel inside) Also keep in mind, bigger RC cars have big chunky driveshafts. Got one car here that is "only" 7-8kg but used 5mm thick hardened steel driveshafs(an each part is shorter than a 16L axle) Along with that, they use either cush gears(some rubber "gears") or slipper clutches to lessen sudden forces from either impacts(landing) or sudden accelerations. But it is kinda strange that the aluminum axles twisted like plastic ones and the metal u-joints are totally fine(and they have way thinner pins) I tried that aswell, works semi good as the weak part is the shaft to brick axle connection. Either use short aluminium axles and file them down or mutilate a 4L axle with center stop and get rid of the 1L part and file down the stop part to be D shaped. Yep they do, but if you brace them properly(best with bearings) it's fine.

Yep it seems to be, could also find it on amazon labeled as an upgrade part for the following "SG 1603 SG1603 SG1604 UD1601 UD1602 1/16" Those are WlToys.

@Krzychups i've searched for them and they are(mesured mine) most likly this : They added adapters for the drive pinion gear and the output shaft parts. The ratio is 1:2.65 (tooth counted)

If you don't fill RC shocks with oil you can just continue to use lego springs, except maybe for the durability of RC shocks. But the oil in them is what makes them proper shock absorbers.

Not the red ones i have, those have just 2 wires, positive and ground, so an esc is needed to produce a at least a pwm signal(or in that matter regulate voltage and polarity).

If you have more than 2 channels on your receiver(preferred a 3rd channel with something like a 3 way switch) you can just plug in another small esc into that channel. That 2nd esc needs to be powered aswell, but make sure the 3 pin connector to your receiver only uses signal and ground(else you fry your electronos, as only one esc should provide the receiver and servos with power) And for motors then you can use the red geekservos or pf motors(pf connector adapter needed). In short, for every dc motor/brushless motor you need an esc to power/controll it. But only ever have one esc provide power to the receiver and servos

Put a pin without friction(the ones with round holes in them) or a 1 1/4 pin (pin with stud) in a liftarm. Most 1/10 - 1/8 RC shocks are mounted with m3 screws and they fit nicely without slack through said pin parts. Also the pins will prevent any damage to the liftarm and also stabalize a bit. I used that in every of my RC brick cars and never had a slopy shock or any damage done to the mounting point, even at longer jumps

That's one of the reasons why no hobby grade RC car uses glued in bearings. It just won't hold. What is done there is that there is a small notch between the bearings so that the outer one can't slide in and the inner one can't slide out. The outer bearing get's pressed in by the hex adapter and the wheel, the inner bearing get's pulled outwards by the thicker part of the axle(in the metal U-Joint atempt the small splint thought the joint and axle). Sometimes along with the notch, different outer diameters for inner and outer bearings are differend aswell. The inner bearing got the bigger outer diameter to prevent movement. But anyways almost always 2 bearings are used with a notch(small inside "ring" in the wheelhub) to limit movement of the bearings. But fitting that in the space of a lego wheelhub means very thin bearings.

So far i've had good results with some lithium grease. Used that for some gears and small turn tables and so far, after a year, nothing bad happened. Edit: Silicon Oils(low viscosity) for RC shocks work aswell. They are also unlikly to have any effect on plastics or rubber as they else would cause problems with the seals an other parts.

@Krzychups Nice done there, looking forward to it. Side note. I have those HSP parts here, they do fit, but are a bit higher than Lego pins, means the ballcup won't be exactly one stud above like with lego towball pins And they do hold, but not as much as lego parts, so you need to connec the lower and upper arms, which can be a problem as they might be 1/4 stud more apart than they should be

@aFrInaTi0n Nope think just the 8t gear. The 12t half bevel ones might be a different aluminium alloy but on their site it's just aluminium, where as the 8t is declared as stainless steel.

@vergogneless Nice order, have fun :) 2 advices..some locktite for the 2L 3L metal pin replacements can be usefull if you don't want the screw to get loose without having it screw in to much. 2nd..the 8t gears are from stainless steel, which is harder than the aluminium (12t, 24t and so on) so it might erode the aluminium gears(especially without lube). That actually happend when i used an 8t/24t downgearing. Fine aluminum dust everywhere.

Slight correction, discardged is mostly around 3.2-3.4V depending on how low you want to got(should not go below 3.2V). 3.7V is commonly used as a storage voltage as it's neither full nor empty.

@aFrInaTi0n Had that with one 5L liftarm from them aswell and in the process it got slighly bend. So i looked and the bearings they use are most likly "Miniatur Kugellager Zoll / Inch R156 ZZ / 2Z 4.762 x 7.938 x 3.175 mm". A good sorted store for bearings(kugellager-express) should have them. Just in case you need spare ones or want to pack some in printed/modifiered brick parts.

@gyenesvi The u-joints from them are shorter than regular ones. By about 3/4 stud in total. So the hub works well with their u-joint others will have an offset.

Thought the same, i have some RC cars(and lego hybrids) that can drive 50km/h+ and they are waaay faster than shown here. But yea a crashtest is pretty pointless unless one is still designing an RC car and wants to know the weak spots. I doubt that. I had a crash at 20km/h , not even frontal. A lot of pins broke/bent, same for Liftarms and axles. Panels are quite stable though

You do know that Lego themselfs use strings and used to have customers cut pneumatic hoses ? Anyways, great idea on such a small space :)

@NoEXIST so you have 2-3 Motors per PF Output. Keep in mind that Motors draw more current while starting and that with such an amount of motors the voltage could drop quite a lot in the frist few moments. I don't think smaller ESC have that much capacitor storage to compensate for that.

I just meaned that milling a lets say 2mm in diameter and 8mm in depth shape(4 times the corners of the axlehole adapter) can get problematic :) that's all