JoKo

Of course he will show his driving skill in the entry video!

Hi everyone! I haven't posted for a while and I have a lot of new MOCs to share but first I have to show you my project for TC27 ! It's a RC go-kart with a Power Function IR receiver V2, two PF L motors and PF servo. I wanted to build a good drift chassis with no differential, no suspension but I still wanted something steerable when not drifting so I angled the front axle with nb3 axle connectors to have some caster angle. When turning right, it "lowers" the right front wheel and thanks to a rigid frame it lifts (or unload) the right rear tire. Just like in kart racing. The idea with kart was also to build an animated driver using the battery box as torso, articulated arms connected to the steering wheel and animated head to look into corners. He's name is Ken Brick and he's wearing his meanest race face!

That's very nice and compact! I will for sure try to use it for a next self locking differential vehicle.

This video was just to illustrate the mechanism in topics about my trial truck MOCs. (https://youtu.be/BRvybPfbMoo and https://youtu.be/sowGB9vvKBg) It is my original idea. I was inspired while playing with differentials, combining two of them like this "subtract" the two wheels speed. The James Watt centrifugal controller was the second inspiration. Very simplified and crude but the idea of "something happens when it turns too quickly" is still there. It is indeed reliable on flat ground at least but will lock when tilted, which I consider more useful than a problem in use. I don't think this can be useful in real life, sounds like a transmission crusher to me. Maybe with a centrifugal clutch instead of violently locking the main differential... Back to the topic. I also hope that @MP LEGO Technic creations will show us his tractor at work!

Beautiful! So nice to see my system in such a perfect MOC. You can see the same system in action in this video: https://youtu.be/rR2us0vD4M8

No offense but maybe claiming total fairness as participant is a bit ostentatious. Strategic voting is not great, sure, but I respect that people enjoy the thrill of a contest different ways. As long as rules are followed we should let people play as they like. There is no need for shaming, drama or controversies, it spoils the fun of this contest. Which-hunting is no more fun than strategic voting itself... Maybe the voting period is just too long... kids are getting nervous!

Exactly! 1 or 15 points makes no difference. They "cancel" each other just as well.

The only way to avoid strategic voting is to prohibit participant voting. And that would kinda be against contest spirit. With current rules a participant not voting is obviously a strategic choice and will annoy some but at least it makes a more impartial jury with neutral non-participant and the most fair-play minded participants. Not so bad because contests are for fun. An alternative could be a neutral non-participant only jury for the official ranking and make participant voting mandatory for a "builders favorites" where the most competitive can vote honestly aside main competition.

Thank you! That's what I thought when I bought the BMW M1000RR ! The Yamaha is a nice set for parts. these new gearbox pieces are great even if it take a little bit more space. And more head scratching to have the gear sequance you want than classic orange wave pieces. Thanks! I'm happy with how it turned. Thinking about using the same technic for two cylinders engines already!

Hi! I'm motorcycle enthusiast, rider, sometimes racer. So the 1:5 scale motorcycle line is for me a blessing. I love the new wheels and suspension. The new gearbox pieces are great too. However I think that the good old fake engine pieces are totally out of scale at this size. A 4 cylinder at 1:5 scale would be 290 cm^3, that's cute for a supposed liter-bike. That's why a started a motorcycle MOC with this idea: to build a single cylinder engine but properly scaled and as detailed as possible. I took inspiration in the KTM 690 LC4 engine: the bore is 10% too large and the stroke 2% too small... good enough. I built a gearbox with the Yamaha mt-10 pieces. The engine has a timing chain and camshaft that pushes on a lightbrick (can be disabled) In order to demonstrate the working engine and gearbox I built a stand with power up hub and XL motor. When the motorcycle is on the stand the fake engine is driven through the alternator rotor, on the left side. Unlike the official sets the engine and gearbox is more of less skeletonized and mechanism can be seen through. The cylinder itself can be built solid or skeletonised, or even 1/4 cutaway like on these pictures. So what are your thoughts? Any idea for improvement?

This one has a correct gearbox. 1-n-2-3 You can follow instructions

No. It is not a Technic specific program and no mechanism can be tested virtually. Imho you should not design a Technic MOC virtually without building and testing the mechanism IRL

I don't really get what you mean by gimmick or something cool... If that's about performance I would say in order of difficulty: differential, suspension, 4 wheels drive, lockable differential. You should start simple and add something more when simple works. Do you have a lot of Technic pieces? If you want you can start a WIP topic for your first car, find a way to embed pictures and we can help you when you are stuck with something

You're welcome! And welcome on the eurobricks Technic zone btw

Looks like you are maybe scattering a bit with your project U are making a RC car for a race? What kind of race? When is the deadline? You can start by making a simple RC chassis. No suspension no differential. Just rear wheels driving in the same direction and a steering system. Make it functional without trying to make it cool first. You'll have a ton of ideas for making it unique along your creative process. About what you asked on the other topic, about learning Technic, gears and stuff... I don't have a book in mind but building official Technic sets and investigate how they work is the way most of us learned. For each set you own you will find building instruction for alternate models, some are free to download: https://rebrickable.com/ Any knowledge about real life mechanic is also useful. Youtube can be a nice place to learn too: Lego Technic and real life engineering channels are plenty. You will find a lot of interesting stuff here too.

It should be ok with this if your vehicle is light enough. this is not a differential though. Maybe before trying to motorize a mechanism, try it with your hands and see if it works as intended. What you did obviously turns one wheel forward and the other one backward.

Looks nice! The A-frames are spot on, the resemblance with 60194 is stunning but that's also what's annoying me a little bit when the contest is about "Design a non-licensed/non-branded arctic vehicle".

Thank you! yeah, I tried to make the video not too long and boring.

Last night was the first snow and negative temperature where I live. So I could test real condition. There is the video And the final pictures

ICEBREAKER Built on 60368 hull with Powered Up Hub, 1x XL motor, 2x L motor Total length: 85cm Beam (width): 20cm Draft (underwater height): 8.5 cm Air draft (above water height) 35 cm Displacement (weight): 3.350 kg RC functions: - Double cyclorotor propulsion (drives the fan and radar) - Steering by rear rotor thrust vectoring (drives the helm) - Pneumatic system with air pump, tanks and valve, bubbles every 15 seconds (drives the watchman) Manual functions: - Anchor and winch - Deployable helipad, twin-rotor helicopter - Functional crane (winch, tilt, rotation) - Liferaft deployments mechanism Video: Discussion topic: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/196976-tc26-mighty-icebreaker/&tab=comments#comment-3665864

Yeah the multi-hull idea is more like an accessory to help me dare try it in outside "dangerous conditions" but I still needed more buoyancy, ideally far away from the centerline... first thing I did was removing a Control+ L motor used as a servo for thrust vectoring the front rotor. I lost some maneuverability but it is still far better than with traditional prop and rudder. Then I added buoyancy with immerged brick blocks between the two parts of the hull, two air tanks below the front deck. I also added a small 60373 fire boat hull turned upside down below the front of superstructure. it is decked to prevent air loss and compartmented to reduce liquid ballast effect. On top of that (bottom of the icebreaker) I built a flooded bulge that contains a metal technic crane hook and a metal technic counterweight. All this gives me a quite big air bubble trapped as high as possible, a neutral flooded area and extra weight as low as possible. I have two positions for each to adjust the center of gravity. With that I was able to keep the boat afloat and leveled with the crane but without helipad and no anchor winch. I keep them for display and play feature on the table or the floor. I added a pneumatic system with a Control + L motor driving a small pneumatic pump. The motor also drives a worm gear mechanism with a crank driving the valve. I have seen that blowing air bubbles under the hull and ice could help with icebreaking. I first tested without valve and the result was far from impressive... that's why i made the valve mechanism to pump the air into the tanks and release pressure every 15 seconds. Still not great but visible at least and I used this mechanism to animate a little bit the boat: a minifig with binoculars on the observation deck sweep ~25° of the horizon with a 15 seconds cycle. And on water I can add a lightbrick warning light on the front deck that turns on when bubbles are released. In the pure tradition of big floating Lego boats There are a few accessory vehicles that I made with as much Technic as possible. I'm done building. I now have to tune the steering control and make nice pictures and video.

Thanks! It's not a feature for now... The propulsion is inspired by the Voith-Schneider system. Common on tug boats but still some nautical-nerdy stuff. @efferman did a great tug with back in the days: https://youtu.be/OlZ1n3thJB8?si=v6NUSX96v6N4XHGf I do frequent float test in my shower but I'll need something bigger soon for propulsion soon... And breaking ice is not on the table yet. I'm facing a dilemma: The ship is gonna be too heavy and too top-heavy. So either I make it simpler and lighter or I add buoyancy and stability with outriggers and floats. I'm not sure what is gonna ruin it the most. On one hand it's gonna be my biggest MOC , I'd like to make it complex and make the most of the 4 motors allowed plus manual function for maximum playability. I have enough lego hulls to make it stable but on the other hand I'm afraid that it would look awkward. It looks nice and quite realist now I'm afraid to ruin it

There is some progress!

Hello folks! I was not active for a while but I have now time to start my TC26 MOC. For a long time I wanted to build a new boat with cyclorotor propulsion. This is a good opportunity to build a functional icebreaker. I started with the hull from 60368 Arctic Explorer Ship. Because it has a pointy end and a "motor well": the opening in the hull into which I will submerge my rotors. Then I built a twin rotor with the maximal diameter possible in the well and minimal length. I still need to set the two hull halves 10 studs apart to fit the rotors and hide the gap with dark blue panels. This pushed the hull length to 80cm, this is gonna be a beast! Cyclorotor? What is that? https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/191154-moc-cyclorotor-tow-boat-voith-schneider-inspired-new-funny-prototype/&tab=comments#comment-3537717 It will feature a Control+ hub, two independent thrust vectoring rotors and should be as functional as possible for real-life icebreaking!

Instructions are now on rebrickable for free: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-164382/GerritvdG/42113-bell-boeing-v-22-osprey-mini/#details The model evolved a little bit to be easier to build and gather the pieces. The rear landing gear is now 1 stud further back to fix stability/CG problem Thanks @GerritvdG for making the instructions