JoKo

Interresting idea mounting it close to the gearbox. you could event have a gearbox for the diff lock, it's not that more than disabling the lock By the way are you going 2WD or 4WD?

Hi! Nice to have evolution on this concept! You d'like a two speed gearbox with 3x speed difference between high and low gear? That would indeed be out of the system's capability but I think it's a little extreme without intermediate gear. With a closer gears 2-speed gearbox I think you can find the right ratio to drive the centrifugal device. If you have 4 wheels steering with high steering angle you will maybe need to slow down in tights curves. Not so far from actual off road driving. By my experience when the motors are under enough load to slow down, a loss of grip leads to wheel spin and motor speeds up, locking the system. And if you struggle to fine tune the minimal size centrifugal device, try with a bigger one. They have more options possibles and can have the sensitivity tuned with different shapes and locking obstacles.

I've always been impressed by Lego clocks and this silent grasshopper mechanism is very smart ! Nice piece of of furniture !

It seems hard to control 4 motors independently plus servo for steering without another Bluetooth hub. For pure performance I can believe it's more efficient and could be fun to drive but honestly I find this crude and nothing much interesting to put together. So I'll leave it to Tesla until I create something heavy enough to need them. I think efficiency is also about not using more electronics than needed but smart way to use it. And for me the pleasure of Technic is finding creative solutions not taking brute force to power a RC model

You're welcome! Happy to see it receives attention! Thanks for sharing your evolution! The LBG gear seems perfectly OK but I would use a new diff with red gear on top (substractor) to increase the speed of the centrifugal device by higher gear ratio. I don't think it can be as compact as a traditional or pneumatic lock but you don't need an extra servo or remote control channel. So I think it can be a competitive solution for some projects

This is a very simple model but I thought it's too funny not to be shared The idea is using chain around smooth round pieces to make some fixed rims wheels who seems to slide on the floor I used huges old gears which hide the mechanism.

I don't get what 8t gears you are talking about? don't have any 8t gear in the model. Nice to see it on someone else's desk overseas ! Bigger centrifugal devices are more consistent but this small butterfly gets the job done! And you'll have to find a way to ad steering somewhere. On this model the steering rack is just behind the bumper. I would be pleased to have feedback!

I just love it !

Hello I rebuilt 100% my trial truck to improve the design on two points: reliability for the gear train up to max torque and lowering the center of gravity. The frame is 2 studs wider to separate gears from differentials, slightly better lateral stability also. I relocated the battery box as low as possible with the two XL motors. there is a retained axle to push on the hub button. You can change the batteries directly from below and the differentials area are protected from below. The self locking differentials works with the same principle as before with a substractor diff linked to the main diff and a miniaturized centrifugal device to lock the substractor when too much wheel slip. By the way did someone give it a try? There was some people interested in this mechanism. For more about the auto-lock system: The mini centrifugal device:

OK, I was not proud of it anyway. Let's use these magnets to carry smuggling cargo.

Last improvement for the Ford T engine : hand-crank starter with a one-way mechanism. You can only turn the engine the right way. In the process I discovered that my engine was turning the wrong way compared to original. I had to mirror the camshaft to keep proper valve timing and the 1 - 2 - 4 - 3 firing order. Now everything turns the right way, even the hand-crank ! I then added a similar one-way mechanism between the electric motor and the crankshaft. The electric motor only drives the crankshaft the right way and the hand-crank rotates the engine without the electric motor.

Thank you again! I implemented the semi-auto six shots guns. It can still handle one huge rubber band instead of six small ones. Another function I wanted is the magnets used in 1980-1990 LEGO space sets. I added two magnetic loading points under the sidepods and I built a small 3 wheeler rover and a cryogenic box. With some texturing details and a few mandatory trans-red pieces I think this model is quite finished. I recycled the big parabolic dish I made first to build a small astro-cyber-criminals base for the pictures backdrop.

I'm very impressed by the cyclic and collective function out of a 1000p car kit.

I slept on it and found a way to have long connecting rods and realistic crankshaft and camshaft positions. The crankshaft rotation swept area and camshaft swept area indeed interfere but with proper timing everything rotates around each other nicely. Despite the total size I am really happy with this compact design.

I don't get it: What does a not working wheel means? turning freely? blocked? If the diff worked like a dream why did you rebuilt it? And if you have perfect 4-wheel drive now you should keep it like this. Honestly I'm pretty sure there is no mistake in this set instructions, This looks like human error to me!

Following a private discussion I challenged myself to the Ford T inline 4. Trying to feature as much details as possible with a technic theme. The main thing I could not really represent was the long connecting rods and the crankshaft mounted lower than camshaft IRL and crankshaft higher in my model. Because of the size of the camshaft it would interfere with the connecting rods. To keep the engine silhouette realistic the shaft driving the chain and the power fonction motor are at the correct crankshaft level. This engine was very simple. No oil pump or water pump. only a belt driven fan. Features -Realistic crankshaft with 3 bearings -Camshaft and valvetrain, correct firing order -Intake manifold with carburetor, fuel tank, fuel line -Full cooling system -Wired spark plugs This was my main documentation for this project: I made a stud.io file if someone is interested.

I thought the full valvetrain concept deserved a separate thread. It's not really the same scale too...

I built this car around the Flathead V8 engine with valve-train that I designed two weeks ago. Flathead engines have side valves, this allows the cylinder-head to be flat with only spark plugs protruding. Made out of Technic it allows the valves to close by gravity The hot rod is minimalist with a single seat. No roof, no roll-cage, no seat-blet. Just a big V8 with a massive 4 lobes compressor and a huge air intake with working butterfly valves and throttle pedal. There is a 2 speed gearbox and four wheels suspension. And if you missed it there are more details about the engine there:

Thanks everyone for the encouragement! I first improved the gun the lazy way: improved accuracy with a big aiming cross for the gunner and more destructive power with huge rubber band which makes the gun painfully powerful. Also improved trigger with a push button behind the rear landing leg. I also continued with fairing and details And finally I made a prototype of a better semi-auto gun:

This new one is inspired by German airplanes engines of WW2 with an inverted V8 with overhead camshafts. The inverted configuration allows gravity to close the valves. It is too big to fit in a MOC but it is a nice motorized desk model.

I think it looks like some insect with the mixer/fuel tank and this canopy. I'll continue this way with some retractable wings. No villain without weapon so I added a huge underbelly gun that shoots rubber bands.

Very nice B model! I have to admit I don't like the halo. It looks off. The engine cover has a vertical fin with horizontal line to the rear wing. Looks like a 2010 F1, they did'n't have halo at the time, I would just remove it.

I have two pieces I wanted and I made: 24tooth gearbox gear, made out of a differential 12 tooth gear drilled and glued to a standard 16 tooth gearbox gear. This allowed me to build a simple 4 speeds sequential gearbox

Exactly the yellow and gray parallelogram slide on the white roller but it stays in place by linkage tension. It doesn't touch the mixer inner structure and it's hidden so I'll keep it like that.

The main engine steering goes through the concrete mixer