Daniel-99

Porsche 911 RSR [RC MOD] Here is my version of Porsche 911 RSR and a first car in 1:10 scale. I made several changes in bodywork and a custom RC chassis. Features: custom RC chassis detachable bodywork PF Servo for steering Double steering rack, positive caster RWD, two PF L-motors for propulsion Powered by Buwizz 2.0 Full story of the build is linked below:

Hello everyone, Im a new Eurobricks member and have only a few posts, some of them present my own technic creations. I noticed, that there is no possibility to see all posts of any member even in it`s personal page (correct me if I`m wrong). So, taking an example from Nico71 i decided to make a dedicated topic for myself, there i will share my lated technic creations. Main goals for this topic: Make a list of my Lego technic creations Make a brief preview of each car Give a link to a full story of development... Please, put all the suggestions and discussions into dedicated topics if possible ;-) Chevrolet Corvette [RC MOD] Features: RWD, driven by two PF L-motors PF Servo for steering Buwizz 2.0 for power some bodywork modifications ;-) Full story of the build could be found in the following topic: Fitst PF car Well, everyone knows, that to get skill you have to practice a lot... and first results differ a lot from the later one... Here is one of my first PF cars. Features: modular build (3 sections) PF L-motor for propulsion PF Servo-motor for steering Full story of the build could be found in the following topic:

It is always helps having a real car for proportions ;-) Also I really appreciate the usage of the rims. There are still a lot of project with old rims on sport-cars, but the new one has a better view and steering geometry! Cant wait for this rims in White and Light Gray colors!

Your note is an honest one, thank you! Of one wants to, he can take some conclusions concerning the ways of improvement of a set: if you want a shelf model, then there are plenty ways to go if you want an RC model, then there is nothing to improve in this set - impossible! I saw several good improvements of this set to make it and RC one, all of them include: chassis transformation (shorter wheel base, longer suspension arms) new live axles (lighter, smaller, steadier) bodywork (to make it lighter) changes in the mass distribution I would say, that after that much transformations your [MOD] becomes a [MOC] - isn`t it true? And without this transforms you will not be able to get a good RC mod! Good luck!

Hello everyone, at the beginning of September I bought myself a Zetros set... The main reason for this expensive purchase was the exclusive list of transmission parts. I would like to share with you my opinion on the set as of "RC trial truck". Speaking in two words: total waste! Sorry, for that, I was not going to be rude, but it was hard to find another words that could describe all my regrets on this set! Here I want to criticize the marketing provided by Lego. I would not even argue on the set, if there was no "RC TRIAL TRUCK" in the name of the set. The main reason of my complains is that it can not really drive, especially making the trial! I will try to explain my opinion in details. 1 It is too heavy I do not understand people that say: "the new Zetros can climb steep hills because it has a center of gravity close to the front axle!". Let me not, that such center of gravity is obtained not by a clever placement of motors or battery box, but by the over-detailed, unacceptable heavy body, especially the hood bonnet, that opens each time you go not up the hill but down the hill (which is always a part of trial competition to see, how your car can go down the hill and not fall of it!). Also the battery box sits too high! The car can climb 47 degrees ONLY because it has too small wheels with 2 studs ground cleaners! (i will speak of it later in details). You can see a good examples of clever mass distribution in the following RC trial cars: The Set have a brilliant details, BUT they add too much weight. The body very close to the original, BUT it is build of too small pieces and bricks, so it is too heavy! One can easilly fing other Zetros projects in a bigger scale which has a lighter bodywork! That is really important! For an RC car weight is more important that the overall proportions! The solution is simple: use more light panels! For example: 2 Too many gears in transmission and remote Lockings The possibility to get the remote control differential lock is great! But it add a lot of weight, and take the space. This space could be taken by the battery box, for example! Also, the rear axle diff-lock... It blows the rear axle in size (and weight) like crazy, bring the potential weak-point of the transmission. But the most importantly, that it brings too many gearings with 1:1 ratio - ridiculous! The funniest thing about all this mess with diff-lock, that is does not help with turning radius at all... And since the car has planetary hubs, the locked differential does not provide mush stress to the transmission! So WHY we need it, especially for trial (there it will be permanently locked). I saw some previous posts on this topic and noticed the 6x6 version of the truck - Very nice! The best solution here, from my point of view, is to have a permanently locked differential with a classical live-axle scheme (you can see it in 6x6 version or in Toyota FJ 40, link above). It is worth to get rid of remote Lockings! But if Lego wants to sell customers more of its overpriced "new" C+ motors, it would be better to have 3 L-motors for propulsion! - this could have helped with overcoming the extra weight of the body. Also, with 3 motors one could build the following momentum distribution scheme: one L-motor for the front axle, one L-motor for each wheel of a rear axle with a dual drive-shaft. This is not the best configuration for trial, but this way you can make the imitation of an electronic differential in the app... 3 geometric passability The original Lego car can not do real trial. Here is the list of problems: too small wheels - 85 mm tires are needed for this rims 2 studs of ground clearance - again, could be solved with a bigger tires. too long bonnet - this is a problem of the original car, i suppose (Unimog is 1000 better on this parameter) no suspension travel - need 9.5L shocks, better mounting, longer suspension arms. Again, i would not argue on all of this points if the car was not called "trial truck" - it has no properties of trial trucks except 4x4. The tires are the source of my pain! This tires are too wide! I would not complain even on their diameter if they were as thin as Buggy tires! This tires only works for building tractors!... but not the trial tricks! Also they are too "unsoft" - even old 85 mm tires are better! Do not call the car a "trial truck" if it has a tractor tires! Also, the suspension is too hard on both axles... And has 0 travel... I suppose an original car has a better articulation, an the TRIAL version should have even better one! Even my sport car have a better articulation! The articulation of the suspension is more important for "TRIAL TRUCK" than the snorkel ! There are plenty of clever suspension ides, tips and tricks on Youtube.. See each of the videos linked above for example. But the best way here. i suppose, is to use 9.5 L shocks (and the soft one at the back)! The suspension arms are too short, that prevents live axles form proper articulation. Okay, i can understand, that on the front the designer wanted to keep the original suspension type with suspension arms coming from the front and to keep the proportions he decided to make them short. But what was the reason for the REAR AXLE? Speaking of Unimogs... This car has a better base for trial.. I was surfing trough youtube couple of days ago and found a nice trial competition. Can you recognize the trucks? Was there any Zetros? Lego tell me, WHY did you make a "trial" version of a Zetros truck? 4 Driving experience is awful! Sorry about you guys, but I get sick from hearing from another review on Zetros set that "it is awesome trial truck, it can climd 47 degrees". Also it is so stupid to see the following avatar on youtube video: a lucky face of a man with a Zetros on the back that is staining on a steep hill. "честно про Zetros" from Russian means "truth about Zetros". Now iti is my turn to tell you the truth! The only thing that Zetros can do is to climb flat hills! It is awfully slow, has a weird turning radius and will stuck in the first grassy place with a transmission full of fresh greenery! It is totally unplayable on the street due to its small wheels. And you will get tired of it after a first home-drive (do not believe videos on youtube! they are made to get views and likes (i mean vides on Zetros)). Even old 9398 is two times better as a crawler and can be played outdoors! To prove my words i will link the following video: After a big disappointment with Zetros i build my own trial car. (green one) I will make a post on it later, but a few things you need to know about it are the following: Live axles with 9.5 L shocks open differentials 2L PF motors pover EACH axle separately (not the best setup for trial) planetary hubs, 5L ground clearance! 1,5 kg (Zetros has >2 kg of mass) Buwizz 3.0 for power (In my video Zetros has a Buwizz 3.0 unit as well) Then i made a journey with 9398 and my new car - they were very close, like tow brothers! 5 Price The licensed model is WAY OVERPRICED! Even if you want some parts from these set it is worth to buy several other set which together with provide all needed parts. Together with a license, unfair Lego company also sold you a new electric that is also overpriced! And for this enormous amount of money you get a "trial tuck" that can not do REAL TRIAL! Summary The Lego company plays its cunning game! Zetros is unplayable. It can only stand on a shelf. Do not buy Zetros set if you have any limits with money - there are plenty of other "good" sets. Positive section If you is the one who have bought Zetros and got disappointed from it, DO NOT TRY TO IMPROVE IT! - it is impossible due to the wrong philosophy of the car... But i will tell toy the good news: Zetros Set has enough pieces to build many cars that can really do trial. For example, there are two for now: And yes, the bottom one is the Unimog! If yo have extra parts you can build even better trucks! Because all the parts for the transmission this set already have! For example this car has 3L C+ motors for propulsion and one L-motor for drive (you can replace it with M-motor and a worm gear). And the last question to Lego company: could your Zetros set perform like this: Feel free to comment on my review and have a real TRIAL with Zetros mods (f it is even possible ).

Very nice fenders! Perfect! Really like how they cover the wheels - most of the Lego official models do not have such a feature! And a wheel base is better now as well! - see my previous comment on another project, where i was complaining about the short wheel base! Also you have a realistic angle of a steering wheel. One thing im not really pleased with is the rims!, i know that the Porsche set has a standard symmetric rims, but that is unacceptable for a sportcar! Just look how the rims from the Land Rover set looks! These are two of my RC projects in 1:10 scale. The Porsche 911 RSR was the first one and in order to get a proper steering, i bought a Land Rover set ;-) Scrab radius is important then going fast, and also it looks 100 times better! But i will repeat again, your project is very interesting! And the photos are good as well! I wish you a good luck and clever ideas! Keep building! P.S. The muscle car should really have live rear axle. I suppose there are plenty of examples on the youtube. By the way, a new Lego technic Ford Raptor has a nice live axle and you can modify it for your needs. Also recently i was developing RC 4x4 cars with live axles, so i get some experience in them.. I will make post some time in the nearest future, and this might also helps you! You can keep working on the bodywork, just reserve some space for the live axle at the back ;-) Since you moved the engine to the front it will not be hard to do!

Very nice to see a project in 1:10 scale! Also, i have not seen 4-seat sedans in this scale for a while! I think, that im too late with my comment, but still, it seems to me, that the wheel base is a bit too short for a sedan with 4-seats. Din you use the proportions form the real prototype? I build a 1:10 scale car and it has a longer wheel base, but my sport coupe has only 2 seats (should have, but in fact there is not sits, since it is a light RC model)

Impressive! The main benefit of this build from my point of view is that it could really pull a lot of weight! it is not only a nice shelf model.

The front suspension [prototype 2] Here is a new front suspension I managed to came up with... I took quite a lot of ideas form this two trophy trucks - this are the best examples i could ever find https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-52788/GooberReboot/trophy-truck/#parts https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-90031/GooberReboot/trophy-truck/?__cf_chl_tk=j_VvIOUIGLDv1nYTTrNe4icIUDHHKSCXV5JX8_htJfk-1637526577-0-gaNycGzNCeU#details There are steering arms missing... (see grey pins on the hub), but an extra-arms are there, but they are not connected to the steering motors, playing the supporting role as in 42099. There was the question of geometry: how to make a proper caster angle of the front axe without "braking" the horizontal structure of a cage (middle part)... the suspension arms has 9L length and the steering arms as well... The steering rack is parallel to the suspension arms in order to keep the angle of the wheels in all possible positions of suspension, which has wide interval of values (long travel suspension). I placed the steering motor horizontally as a structural element of a cage, so the steering gear meets the steering rack by an angle! - and it is not that good! There will be a potential problem with such placement - weak place of a front suspension. Also, bigger gear (than usual 12-tooth one) make the car uncontrollable and the steering motor looses it`s torque, that is important! So... i need to build another version...

But it is a very good proportion still! Half a kilo per 1 Buggy motor!

Your idea with making a smaller tires on the front is very interesting one! By the way, these are not final tires ;-) I think i will use some RC tires for a better grip. But an idea of placing smaller tires on the front is very cool! Although i will try to keep the front disks as they are now - since these are the only lego asymmetric discs. except water, I suppose

Thank you! The main goal for this project is the good performance, not the overlook ;-) But i will make my best on bodywork after the chassis will work like a charm! Also I forgot to mention, that it is very fun that on first several photos buggy is standing close to my Red coupe. The red coupe was build first and I made many outdoor driving with it, but after a while i got tired from the amount of attention you need to keep on the road in order to find a flat path, cause over-wise you will end your driving experience with a crash! The new buggy should forget me going not only a flat road ;-)

Hello everyone! Lately, I made several posts of my finished models, some of which was build many year ago, so i cant make more photos of them and add your suggestions to the build. Today i would like to share with you my recent project. Im building (developing) an RC Buggy in big scale. Im not trying to make a version of a real one, but the general principles i follow are the same with real buggies. General principles: - independent suspension with a big travel - Rear wheel drive - big positive caster on from wheels - 2x Buggy motors for power (1 per each wheel) - lack of the body - only the structural elements... - double steering arms (for stability and stiffness) I have begun this project a month ago, but then got interrupted with some 4x4 cars (i will make posts on them later). The first prototype This car is actually closer to trophy trucks than to buggies, but nether mind... Features: - Rear drive with live axle. Long travel, soft suspension. - Dual driveshaft: Buggy motors are connected to the rear wheel independently. - McPherson front suspension, positive caster, extra steering arm for stiffness (like in 42099) - anti-row bar at the front The main goal of the first prototype was to test the McPherson setup and the gear-ratio (find a good balance between speed and torque). I made a several tests, and was very pleased with them (see videos below) but many observations has been made for the future development. Main benefit of the McPherson setup is it`s compactness, since there is only one wishbone. But it also became the problem for the car, since additional wishbone gives more ridged structure. Also all axes in transmission has a lot of plastic dust in them - Buggy motors have made their job too well! Summing up, Im very pleased with the first prototype, but the general scheme should be changed! So the development continues... Im waiting for your comments and suggestions... It is not that easy to build a thing from lego that can drive "properly". THIS SECTION WILL BE CONTINUED! ;-)

Hi, it is nice to see more Porsches here! I finished a Porsche project half a year ago and there is more of such projects here! But an idea of moving the engine is something new for me! Are you planning to make an RC car or not? We wait for the updates on your project ;-)

Hello everyone. I`m building a model in Studio.io and I split the main model into several submodes. Is there any way to set an order in which this submodes will be assembles in the final PDF instruction?

I thought of GT-R as well, especially with the 1-st prototype of a bonnet... But building real cars is a lot harder that building non-existing one... And in not ready for this ;-) The good thing is that one can design it's own body with this chassis!

Very interesting chassis... I was trying to build a diagonal one as well, but failed... It would be great to see this car with a bigger wheels (for example from Lego motorbikes)

I was thinking about white fenders, but the EVE 3 set costs a lot... And it would not be that a problem if I would use its electronics - but im not interested in it... And build these fenders only is nearly impossible to me, cause im living in Russia ;-) Of course, I will make them white in the instruction!

Hello everyone, today I`m going to reveal to all of you my Red coupe MOC that I placed on my avatar ;-) A long long story begins There is a long story of development of this car. It starts with my childhood dream and the First Lego technic PF car (see https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/188301-fitst-pf-technic-car-moc/&tab=comments#comment-3468455 ) (that I built in 2012). After I left my hobby for about 4-5 years. And then I returned with RC MOD of Chevrolet Corvette set (see https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/188300-chevrolet-corvette-42093-rc-mod/&tab=comments#comment-3468619 ). After that I tried to deal with a big scale (1:10) by building an RC MOC of Porsche 911 RSR (see https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/188322-porsche-911-rsr-rc-moc/&tab=comments#comment-3469094 ) - that was a big challenge for me and required a significant upgrade of my lego workshop... At the very end of my story with Porsche, I get some ideas for a new car... but to build a car from that ideas took me 2 more months. The cassis and first ideas of the body I was developing a new RC chassis for my Porsche 911, it is a long process, you know... Finally, the chassis has been developed. It was built out of ideas and I was very pleased with it! I needed to add several mounting points to it in order to swap the body. The chassis was waiting for me on the next desk where I used to play lego and I was doing my everyday job on computer. Then suddenly, I looked up onto a shelf and noticed, that fenders from Land Rover set 42110 has a nice shape as a front grill! I checked my idea, and it worked! At that moment I realized that the story of a new car begins!... To build the back lights of the new car I use the old Bionicle heads! And made first lines of the roof and A-pillars After that the process stopped... New fenders from Ferrari set Process stopped... I was struggling a low with making the wheel arched for front wheels... the bonnet I made required me to make a very sport-like very slime and curved wheel arches. At the same time they needed to be sturdy enough for outdoor driving and also provide some space for the suspension travel... After a month of unsuccessful attempts I was ready to give up! But likely for me, the new Lego set Ferrari 42125 has arrived! I waited for another month for a "good" price since it was totally overpriced form the very beginning. The Ferrari fenders bring the new power to me. Also they provided the color for the car. To finish the bodywork in red I bought two Ducati sets their parts help me a lot! On the photo you can see the gorgeous moment of attachment of the side-panels to the car. After I solved the problem with fenders, the car was assembled piece by piece in such a way, that all my ideas nearly "provide" the form of the car and the part use. As you can see, the first prototype of a bonnet was lifted up to be a roof ;-). Some underlying ideas for bodywork: - Short front and back bumpers (comparing to the Porsche set) - Front grill with a fender from the Land Rover set - Narrowing door panels The car has no interior and no doors, since I was building an RC car. I was saving the weight. Final car with batteries (Buwizz) has a total weight of 1,5 kg. Photos of a finished car Hope you like it! After finishing the first version, I made a significant update of it. Now it is equipped with 2 powerful Buwizz motors and powered by 2 Buwizz 3.0 bricks. The total weight is 1,63 kg and the mass of the car is moved closer to the rear wheels for a better grip. All electronics is located in the lowest 5 studs of a car so it is very stable and quite fast (about 12 km/h) it is really fun to play. But you heed a flat areas since the ground clearance is about 2 studs (all in all it is a sport car). The suspension is independent and very responsive. I have no video to share for now and the winter has already come, so I will wait until spring! Now im 100% involved in 4x4 technic RC off-roaders.... P.S. I will try to make a OPDF instruction for my MOC, but it will take a lot of times. And if you have any questions, no not hesitate to ask me - the car was not disassembled and it is waiting for the warn and sunny days on a shelf ;-)

Further development continue. I build a new chassis with the the new steering system: - Ackerman steering geometry - double steering arms - positive caster - camber - zero scarab radius After that I found that the fender from Land Rover set fits so nicely as a front grill! From that moment I could not think of Porsche ;-) Well,... I think it is time to tell you about the car pictured on my Avatar ;-)

Hello everyone! These little fellows I developed about 6 months ago! I thought they were the smallest engines ever, but no I see that it is not so... However my fellows are very strong and stable ;-)

I like how you add a new color in the car replacing the red one! This Porsche is a sister if mine ;-)

After finishing the car I started to develop a new chassis. The main problem of the 1-st version for me is that the structure is broken in the front to make a positive caster. Here is a new version. It has a positive caster as well, but the main issue is solved. My dear Porsche, it is time to make a pitstop! Also im sorry for the quality of first pictures... They were made in the building process, and mostly in the late evenings, so no natural light was available... Hope this photos will make the car to shine! P.S. could anyone help me with tags? Im a new member so I do not know how to add them, and this car should definitely get a "Porsche" tag :-)

As far as I know this system doesn't have a proportional steering. It is OK for trial, but will not work for fast cars... That is why I can not use it by now. Hope CADA will add the proportional control later!

Very nice! How many models you have built before this one? - looks like it is not your first MOC ;-) What is the turning radius of the truck?