ralphie

A, I want to see some people go a little crazy

I realize not every set would work, but for something like 6989 Mega Core Magnetizer, I would personally have no objection to the original studded windshield being present, plus just enough to interface with the magnets. That is probably a slippery slope, so we might have to accept that some sets just won't work because their original parts are too iconic.

Hmm, I was thinking more of things that walk or crawl, rather than no-vehicle. Technic strandbeest. Some convoluted technic art could be fun though.

I like it.

I think we'll get there in a few years, and I don't think it would be a bad thing. Focus on mechanical design and buy the pretty shells. Will Lego do it themselves? Never.

Nice job, I really wish there was some sort of better steering part than 48989 / 65489 so ground clearance would be better on these tiny trucks.

Nice work, looks very well integrated.

nice work, looks like fun

@Gray Gear I’m not a monster, there are inner transparent bricks you can see in the first pic for fake LED bulbs. I couldn’t fit 2x 2x2 round due to a bunch of structure for the hood angle, plus the edges of the headlight cover. There is enough inside to look satisfying though. I was originally using trans-neon green for the headlight bulb, which really shows up better through the headlight cover. I had to switch to trans-clear because 1x1 trans-neon green tiles are quite rare.

I really liked the body work of this MOC, better than most official sets, so it is almost all identical. Changes: Swapped out the popup headlights for something a little more modern, or from a racing 365 Hood grill is a real grill Made the lower grill one stud taller using the new tiny panels at the bottom Hood now opens more like the real thing, uses string to stop itself from folding open too far Engine intake has more of a real grill Fake carburetors Fake exhaust (straight pipes!) Made the whole bottom totally flat by using a half stud vertical offset for the diff. I was *really* tempted to just remove parts of the engine cylinders, but I finally found a honest way Chrome exhaust tips, and it turned out to be fairly annoying to keep a black element to hold all of them My realization after making a few versions of the front suspension is that there really needs to be significant ground clearance with this fender and tire combination. The suspension travel ended up being about half a stud. I still need to look through my collection to find some interesting printed tiles for the instrument cluster, plus figure out if there is any hope for a transmission, but I doubt it.

@JamesJT I bought the instructions on rebrickable and I'm working on some upgrades to this MOC while I wait for 42125 to be a little easier to find (I like to buy at my local Lego store). What's the etiquette about that? Separate WIP post with a link to this post? I will not release instructions, but I would like to post pictures of course. I'm totally happy with the purchase, just taking things a little further.

The extended worm gear looks very interesting

I agree on all counts, which is why I expect Lego RC will only ever be slow. Thus, as an AFOL, my personal choice is that I don't bother with RC. PF/PU definitely has a place for models where turning a hand crank would take too long.

I prefer MOCs without PU, PF, or RC. PU/PF is sometimes necessary, but I try to avoid it. RC is way better outside of Lego, they should partner with Traxxas to make a few chassis options that are Technic compatible.

The B models are the best part of 42125 so far. I sure hope those fenders come in a few other colors some day. Also I really like the unapologetic light grey headlights. They work well.

I have no hard feelings about voting, but hey, maybe if @BrickBuildingFox and I discuss the matter excessively, we’ll both have 50 posts by the time voting closes... Either way, thanks for the fun contest. I’ve been lurking for a few years and finally got a dedicated Lego room, so it seemed like a good time.

My vote is invalid, but hey, we are competing for glory, and this is allowed. 4: 10 17: 6 9: 4 26: 3 10: 2 7: 1

Nicely done, very compact especially on the bucket arms.

Route Clearance Vehicle The zombie outbreak was under control, but the undead still showed up in surprising numbers along supply routes. Something about the sound of diesel engines rattled what was left of their brains. Helicopters couldn’t clear underpasses, or along heavily wooded roads, but an RCV in experienced hands could clear 400 miles a day of just about anything. Features Suspension & steering Turbine engine with alternating fixed and spinning fan layers Planetary reduction Dual miniguns driven by the engine Miniguns engage by lowering them, using rotary clutch selector Side View (guns stowed) Front View (guns deployed) Rear View (guns deployed) Rear View / Frame Build Topic https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/182783-tc19-route-clearance-vehicle/

Tail of the bike looks amazing. For the front, IMO keep the panel if you can get the top edge level with the ground.

Added steering wheel, headlights, instrument cluster, kick stand, tail pipes. Shown without plates for “frame” contest submission. Details of planetary, turbine, overall gear chain, and minigun clutch. It rides a bit low, and the miniguns point a bit down, but I’m calling it done for now.

I was unclear, I meant to say yours is better. One stage of 64712 gets about 4:1 ratio, but the diameter of the part is ~7 studs, plus it is quite hard to mount. The length of one stage is also ~7 studs. I’m mainly using it because it looks cool when operating.

Nice

I've been using the inside teeth of 64712 for planetary. This is definitely smaller and tidier.

Power Puller tires are significantly wider than even that, which is why they are hard to build with unless you are making a Russian truck. The buildable figures are a bit small for the Ducati, but too big for super cars. Tires from left to right: Power Puller (~110x66R), 107x44R, 94.3x38, 94.2x22 (Ducati), 94.8x44R