NoEXIST

Any Dumborc transmitter will work

Long time without updates… But now first Decks are getting ready to be shipped

Some old rims like this would make it easier for 4x4 builds Also mustang rims and other capable rims might be handy. Classic wheels do have some issues because of its 1,5 stud depth. However I have no problem with classics too:) This is nice idea actually!

Body on! However it's still in slightly unfinished condition (these things sometimes last forever)

@HorcikDesigns This gearbox is sick! Imo that's how we should put BU motors inside Lego builds, not using planetary hubs. I personally would like to have a version with center diff!

The most important thing is a tire or the wheel in general? Simply, can I use 49x20 tire with 14mm rim? Actually I have more different rims on my mind. Using them can be beneficial, so I would say it's quite important:)

Definitely want to see new Lego Porsche in action and make something like a mod with this chassis:)

Nice looking, nicely working, overall great! To continue with our discussion about speed and 4 buggy motors configuration. Motors inside CaDa buggy's seems to be more efficient, as they have more rpm and it doesn't seem they're missing torque. So far I didn't overheat them a single time. But I did that with buwizz motor:) Feeling of 4buggy with small 56mm wheels can be described as "I always have enough power to slip all 4 wheels on a bit dusty surface" I also tried same setup with 68mm wheels and it still was enough powerful, but you're missing this extra bit of power. Faster output of the motor does similar thing, but makes car go even faster:) So talking about the speed your trophy truck goes I would guess there's something near 20km/h

It has asymmetrical and symmetrical version, but you're right asymmetrical is used to fit shocks. There are also used shortened CaDa CV joints and custom lower arms which can be replaced with regular, but these have less play Video showed first version with slower buggy motor output. Most modified parts were needed only because I had to move front axle only by 1,5 studs, front driveshafts are not parallel to arms if you look from the top. There's no problem to fit the body on this chassis, but need modifications. I didn't finish it so far only because there's better access to eleftronics for testing RCDecks:)

Thanks for your kind words. That's unfortunately true, people are more interested in new sets. Yeah that would be nice to have a bit more photos, but now there's only a chassis for testing RCDecks:) Definitely need to order some more components! I'm also curious, I didn't manage build good handling off-road vehicle so I'm going with the touring cars so far:) You can simply exchange these hubs with Audi ones. Don't have Audi ones so I can't compare the performance, but main thing is that this hub is more into using with smaller wheels, they only allow axle connection

Floating rpms is probably the result of small reduction. Also bearings definitely will lower the load on the motor. Also about a gear and adapter. I personally like the idea of having an rc spur meshed with Lego gears. Might work better than an adapter

I think portal hubs won't like this amount of spinning:) I also would try go into a bigger reduction. RC cars usually have something near 9:1 with these classes of motors. It probably will perform even better!

Update: Parts started to arrive including receivers and I got a gyro one to test how will it work... I did find out that you have to place it in proper position. I'm not so far sure this option will be easy to use in different models. P.S. gyro in my skyline is working if rear of the car is going up🫢 P.P.S. gyro is adjustable with a 6ch knob as we thought

I was looking for some brushless motors to use, the best form factor I found was 1410 or 2430. They're small and allow to create some mounting points on the back and the front like PF L or PU L. However the problem for this form factor is that stock Lego reduction (M/L motors) wouldn't handle this. There are also two ways to work with it: Using XL reduction, but it requires bigger size, maybe something like PU XL but possibly shorter Or not using planetary reduction at all and always put huge gearing down in your model. I personally like the second solution, but it definitely needs bearing everywhere it's even possible

However it will be less powerful, I don't think you'll notice the difference. Honestly in my opinion its overkill for Lego cars

Thanks! There's a problem with good looking cars with good performance, parts suffer a lot outside and not only transmission parts but also panels and so on. But I still like it! Thanks! In my opinion it's completely different side of the hobby, I was making purist style trucks for a while. But now I'm trying to be as much creative with the parts as possible:)

It's been a while since I built the first version. It used 4 Cada Buggy motors, geekservo and first working RCDeck prototype with 3s lipo battery:) Car used slower motor output (which is similar to @Zerobricks Audi) and still achieved a speed of ~16,5km/h. This car uses some custom parts, such as rims, wheel hubs with bearing, shorter links and so on. Another thing is that a car body is modified version of this moc https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-50815/Sfcustoms/skyline-gt-r-r32/#details It's been disassembled for a month and I decided I wanna challenge myself rebuilding it with motors using faster output! It achieved crazy 27,5km/h! Weight of tested one was 1100g (full weight of previous version is 1200g) So main goal now is to give the car finished look😁

In usual version it will only work with Dumborc transmitters. But they are only pistol looking as far as I know. Different transmitters can be used but only (size restrictions) with modified version as mentioned few posts earlier. P.S. pistol looking remote control can also be smaller as Dumborc x6pm is

Definitely better... Planetary hub must spin CV joint faster even if you didn't connect the transmission. Simply less torque is needed to spin the wheel

Having fun with first orders!

Actually making everything separate and connectible is even more advanced method:) It's just to solder things a little bit differently. But yes, exactly, this will allow every receiver to use. Yep, I already tried to make shorter version. But there's quite a lot things to make, so it will be done a little bit later:) More on this topic, one customer asked me about connecting 2 receivers to one transmitter at the time. I tried it yesterday and I have to say it kinda worked!

Correct

First part is correct, but the second isn't really. In this case these ports just have to be connected to receiver to make 2 and 4 channel work(or maybe you can connect it differently) but all the servos might be connected to receiver. Mainly RCDeck becoming an ESC

Uh, you mean this one, this one is bigger than I could fit. For this receiver I can suggest removing receiver from Deck at all. We came out with @Lixander to just remove receiver, so there's more empty space inside the brick, and connect external receiver to ESC's through ports i invented for servos. However, next step for me is making this exact brick, but one stud shorter. I'm now using mine transmitter with two different receivers, you don't need to rebind them, just once you connect the transmitter first time. Another use of this button is gyro setup if you do have gyro in receiver. Don't want to speculate about that, but it works this was:)

1. Receiver, it's separate, you can connect your one if it fits. Not sure if they have pins in the same order, but it can be done even without soldering 2. Buggy motors, as I said before, I'm using Y-cables to connect 2 buggy motors to one deck port, it works nicely this way 3. The electronics right under(on) JST connector is that 30A ESC 4. You're right about that empty space, but I don't see a way to put electronics in a different way to reduce one of the dimensions, you also getting some space to find that bind button and not trying to find it inside the cables 5. Battery, it's also possible to put connector outside of the box if you mind a bigger connector. In some cases it would be even better. Mine battery is this one https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJEcxgF This one allowed me to play about 15 minutes with a car with 4 buggy motors (that red skyline video)