NoEXIST

Sooo... I got pretty scary pic of everything connected! Next step should be packaging everything inside but, I did find out that Dumbo's receivers will not allow you to use a classic motors for channel 3. Google says it can be used as a light channel by using sort of switch or something. Or as I did find out myself it can be used with geekservos (45° to the one side when button is off and 45° to the other side when the button is on and no 0°), but I don't know about their motors. Let me know what do you think about this? It seems that easiest way out is simply making channel 3 used for rc lights and servos... But good news is that everything excluding channel 3 works fine!

Actually these two units have completely different battery. BW2 has 2 cells, but as it has a slow mode I think it's 1S battery with bigger capacity. Then voltage is increased by mode you choose. So no, you can't suit BW2 to BW3, also in BW2 battery is soldered to the board

It's really better to se a real photo, now it doesn't seem as big as it seem while you're looking on a 3D model:) I hope too. Thanks!

Finally a post with real update! Unfortunately it came out a little bit bigger than planned, but I want to say that I'll use every cubic centimeter of this deck, so it can't be smaller without selfmade PCB board (There won't be any wires sticking out of the deck, just didn't desolder them so far)

Oh, now I see:)

I'm aware, but not really scared of it as I also consult with my friends who have been doing similar things for several years and tried almost everything, but weren't interested in pushing it into a product... And most of the cases says that the problems starts to appear when you're trying to switch to a cheaper motor solution from Ali. But it's not always the case, sometimes it is about thermistors and capacitors in these motors. One of those friends burnt 2 esc's because of black L motors from Ali. They didn't have capacitors, so sparks from the motors went to the ESC (that was pretty strong as he used 6 of these motors in one model). The only thing I really think can end badly is connecting PF servo to a 3s battery. They seems too "fragile" even with standard voltage. For the PU motors it might work fine as they will get higher voltage on it's motor only. "Smart" functions of these motors have to be connected to something like Arduino if we want a PU servo. In the end safety is first and I'm not forcing people to use 3s lipo's. In my opinion it's even better to have higher current battery with less voltage. I did a research about how can custom Lego compatible motor look like and in case of small brushless motors it's even better to have 1s battery as it has too much rpm. (Ofc in Lego, RC models seems to be able to cope with that) The problem for this solution is that most of esc's are for at least 2s, not 1s. In buwizz case it seems like the unit will cut off before the thermistors in motors (sometimes because it can't provide enough current, but it's a different story), can't be an issue. I hope Czech post will give me an opportunity to finally take all the components and finally start a real progress instead of only talking about:)

Congratulations to the winners! Slowly getting higher, hopefully once I'll get on these places too :O

Well, that's the question, what's the difference between BW motor and MK buggy motor. One of my friends tried to contact buwizz and ask about their motor components and compare them, but he got no answer. So I don't really know what to say in this case. BW seems to work okay, I don't have problems with it, but I also don't know if it's truly a full potential of the motor

This one is 3s 800mah 25c battery. I would say it's enough for small models, especially with ~20min charging. But definitely need bigger battery for large models

Testing some of the components that already arrived. ESC (bottom one in the photo) and receiver. ESC seems to be nice under a bit of load. (comparing to what I've seen on the forums) Waiting to test x4fm receiver. So far the biggest load I was able to test was 4L motors which worked fine.

Sounds a bit off, if your BW3 can't handle advertised amount of motors, you need another one

Ali solutions also seems to be okay as you're not afraid of melting cables or something because there's no big load on PU motors

This is a questionable thing, do we actually need to squeeze all the juice out of the motors or using a lower voltage battery with much higher current? In this case you can power more motors by one unit, so you're lighter, but you have to deal with less rpms. All 3s batteries with high current I found are slightly bigger, it possibly can fit big technic battery box form factor. (Btw, I didn't found a single 5c 3s battery. Isn't it somehow made specially for bw) I always liked my bw2.0 and never had a problem with software as I'm always using BrickController2. But these captions about power under pictures of MOCs using 4 units are laughable.

Actually I seem to be that home project guy, I'm not sure that I'm able to go this far with the production. Not sure of how much of an interest is there. Maybe in the future I have to do something to cope with count of customers

I don’t want to devalue other people’s work or hate anyone at all, don’t get me wrong, but the cost in relation to the prices of bearings and plastic is not unattainably low Well, it won't mean smaller, but definitely more familiar form factor.

The experience I was talking about is that not every potential customer will be experienced with rc world. As we've talked about hub with only esc's inside is for more experienced users.

There are few solutions for the motors, but again outside of the EU. Brushless a2212 motor with printed nylon planetary reduction which is killing Lego parts constantly And Brushed 380er motor, which seemed pretty okay. One of my friends using it for pretty detailed cars on 56mm wheels. Everything is okay about this one, but it's using XL's planetary reduction, so it's dimensions are 5x5x9

You mean motor mount that is similar to a regular RC cars? I also thought about this can be pretty useful! But again, so much of a freedom requires some experience. Also about different parts, I started my printing journey with wheels and hubs, I can create them together with decks

Yeah, the good thing is that we now know how much is 800mah lipo for lego

As I can see y'all are pretty okay with forgetting about Lego motors Maybe I should also think about custom motor:) Maybe even brushless

Unfortunately the only way to do that is go for 2s battery or a bigger brick

That's what I think about, we need 2-3 separate products! BATTERY UNIT: I'm defenitely going for external charger as its more simple, faster and safer for the battery. ESC UNIT: You're right about only 2 motors, it's also good to have power reserve in ESC. This form factor actually allows you to use multiple decks... RECEIVER UNIT: In my todays opinion this one can be really small only if one driving channel uses ESC and other channels are used for geekservos and similar. ESC's for secondary functions are pretty big too. Maybe I should go for weaker ones for PU ports in the future. These ones theoretically can handle one buggy motor(each) too.

Quick question. Do you think JR connector is needed on the ESC box? Trying to figure out how small it can actually be As deck will have receiver outside of the box, maybe even more comfortable way to connect geekservo is directly to receiver

This difference is from that they also wrote 8.5Wh instead of 8,88Wh on battery

It has voltage modes as 2.0 do right? I found out that 2300mah is calculated for 3.7v:) I mean what a great description if it doesn't have voltage modes