SearchFunction

ER0L suggested to me, that I should do an update here on a particular car of mine, so I might as well give a short presentation of everything not yet shown here. Low 6 wide with space for minifigs http://mocpages.com/moc.php/383727 This car uses panels to get a low profile. Instructions on how to build it is in the link. A white roadster http://mocpages.com/moc.php/383515 A design around the 11209 wheels. Coupe design http://mocpages.com/moc.php/382826 A design working both as a coupe and as a cabriolet, full guide in the link. Vans http://mocpages.com/moc.php/380663 A basic van design A full size family car http://mocpages.com/moc.php/379911 Longest 4 seater I have ever built. Coupe & Cabriolet http://mocpages.com/moc.php/374882 Another multi-purpose design. Super compact http://mocpages.com/moc.php/385423 The opposite of the fullsize car. Police Interceptor Mark II http://mocpages.com/moc.php/372876 An upgrade of an earlier car I made 4x4s http://mocpages.com/moc.php/370628 I didn't have any 4x4s. Now I do . Centerengine car http://mocpages.com/moc.php/370584 A mix of Lamborghini and Porsche 4 seater, 4th version http://mocpages.com/moc.php/343485 Not sure if I posted this already, in any case, this is the most recent version. 5 wide with full minifig http://mocpages.com/moc.php/370802 Taking advantage of a special piece, a very low 5 wide can be built. Instructions partly explained in link. 64 foot (stud) Yacht http://mocpages.com/moc.php/373118 Had to have one of these. Home Sweet Home http://mocpages.com/moc.php/384814 A typical 1950s Cape Cod like design. Fully detailed interior. And that about sums it up I think. There are LDD files for every creation if you want to copy something or want to check out building techniques.

The reason its so cheap, is because its made in China. When I buy stuff in general, I dont mind paying a higher price for locally produced goods, because I know the money goes back into the local community, and so it helps support my way of living. Now I don´t know about Sluban, but there are plenty of stories about companies operating in China, that has no problems using dangerous chemicals banned decades ago and dosnt give a damn about labour rights or decent wages and no local company I know of can compete with that and neither should they. Dont get me wrong, you wanted that bus bad enough to buy it, so you satisfied your curiosity. I do that too sometimes. We must to remain sane .

Okay so I have looked at the digital models for all the modular buildings, and been doing some testing. To be able to build on top of the deck, all edges must be supported by a plate below. Also the "holes" in layer 2 shouldnt be wider than 4 studs for a stable surface. Lego have used a 16x16 plate in the cinema building, but that was without much building on top of the deck. This is the layout I´m going for now: Layer 1 Layer 2 The 3rd layer would be the flat smooth plates the deck rests on, on the level below. This solution uses more, but less rare parts and fewer different ones. Also I like symmetry .

Hello all I have, like mdoupe, developed a program to help me find better cheaper ways to buy bricks from BL. The program works as intended and have helped me to a certain degree when buying bricks. It is however tailored to my needs, and since I am faily new at programming, it contains some shortcuts, simply because I do not know how else to do it. I don´t really have time to provide proper support for it, and have been wondering if I should release it or not. Since BL2.0 is on the way, and everything I have made once it launches will be outdated and unuseable, I want to know if you people here, would like to have it anyway to play around with? It will be unsupported, but I will try to listen to your needs. So far it have the following features compared to Brickficiency: - Uses an algoritm to cut down solution search to a few minutes. This can be modified, better results takes longer time. - Once a solution is found, tells you exactly what to buy in each store for the best price, minimum buys taken into consideration - Blacklist for stores you dont like - Blacklist for words in lot descriptions you dont like - Average shipping costs can be provided for a more realistic solution Limits - bricks must exists, and a color must be provided - Only bricks and minifigs is recognized - Not optimised for multicore CPUs - Region options are "everywhere" or "EU only", I might be able to expand on this - Collects only data from shops that provide a paypal option I worked on this program before mdoupe announced Brickficiency so it has been interesting to see the feedback he have gotten. Our techniques are similar in aproach, but different in technology used. EDIT: So I got a little bit of time to write some basic instructions. The program can be downloaded from here http://www.filedropper.com/brickfinder01 HOW TO USE (Short version): Step 1. Go to a BL "My wantedlist" page, select "Hide items for sale", press go, and then "Show all". For each page you have, you have to right click anywhere on the page, select "view sourcecode" and copypaste everything into the top textbox in BrickFinder, then click "Extract lots". Then save. Step 2. Type in your your 2 letter ship country ID, and select if you want to limit your data collection to the EU only. Then click on "Query shops for inventory". This can take a while. Then save. Step 3. In the 4 fields below the "Show wantedlist" button fill in information after the following guidelines: Currency modifier: Prices are collected in whatever currency BL decides is right for your country. If you want the result to be shown in another currency, this is where you type in the exchange ratio. Average shipping costs: Make a guess for much you think shipping will cost you on average, or set to 0 if you dont care. This is used in calculations to decide if adding another shop with cheaper parts are worth the trouble. Note that if you change the currency modifier, you must also change the shipping costs to the amount it would be in the new currency. Max shops: The maximum number of shops you want to find solutions fore. You can use this to make the search faster, if you are satisfied with a certain number and only want to see if better solutions are possible. Max paths(Short explanation): The higher this number is, the BETTER a solution you get. Also the higher it is, the LONGER it takes. 3-5 should give you pretty decent results. Step 4. Click on "Find price". This shouldnt take too long. 5-15 minutes. Then, if a solution is found the result will be displayed to you. I´m not going to go into details about it, should be fairly easy to understand what the numbers mean. You can then adjust the max shops/max paths and try again if you want a better result. Or by pressing "Copy To Output" the text gets moved to the top textbox, where you can copy it to your prefered word processing program. You can also write unwanted words from lots or shopnames into the two text files for this purpose (remember to save). The program does not need to be restarted to do this. If you find that you need to adjust an inventory item or wantedlist, you can save the data, and open the Data.txt file and fiddle with the numbers in there. It could be made simpler, but this was the fast and easy solution. Notes of caution: 1. The cancel button should only be used in step 4. If you get funny results, better to restart the program. 2. Many shops have special terms you need to check up on first before ordering anything! 3. Buying straight from Lego is often a better deal, than ordering from 8-10 sellers due to shipping. Allright, hope I havn't scared anyone off. Program most likely only works on Windows platforms. As I wrote previously, support will be somewhat limited as I am pressed for time these days. I just hope someone other than me could benefit from it. Use it in combination with Brickficiency

Well for this level there isnt 9 levels above, since its a roof, and so it bends like a curve when put together like in the pictures in the first post. Also this bending is neither good for the bricks or for the stability, since its not possible to attach it properly to the level below it (all bricks are new by the way, and not damaged in any way). Also there is cost and availiblity of bricks to consider, so it isnt as simple as it might look.

I am working on my first building and just realized that my deck is curving upwards because I built it with 2 layers of plates completely covering each other. The reason for the curving probably have to do, with lego plates kind of functioning like a box turned upside down. That way the "top" of the box where the studs are, is more rigid and less flexible. This was my first attempt for a 24 x 32 deck with a 4x10 hole for stairs: Layer 1 Layer 2 Now after looking at some instructions for the modular buildings, I see that Lego usually build something more like this Layer 1 Layer 2 Where no plate that is larger than 6 studs in one direction, is larger than 6 studs in the other direction ( So 6x16, 6x12, 6x8 etc. but not 8x8, 8x16), with 2xX plates in the "middle" connecting as many plates as possible, and 1xX plates covering up the edges. But what are your preferences when building modular? Do you have any guidelines, rules or suggestions on how to build decks?

This topic is relevant to me. Far too often I find that sellers do not have what their inventory states, they send the wrong parts or whole lots are missing. For the most part, replacement parts are sent, but about 1/4 of the time only refunds are offered. Like you I don´t really feel comfortable leaving anything but positive feedback. I am a hardass, and I have to lower my level when dealing with BL. Mistakes are made all the time. I don´t really like buying through BL, but its really the only choice when specific parts are needed. 1 shop, not to be named, stated it had "used" parts. Many of the parts where downright defective, and the seller had put plates together one on top of another so they where impossible to pull apart. The shop had a "return" policy which I decided to use. Cost me more in postage than I saved, but the seller did refund the bricks. The feedback on the sellers page did not contain any negatives, but the neutral ones clearly reflected my experience. In another one after leaving neutral feedback, the seller didnt understand basic english and sent me angry childish messages with lots of exclamation marks insulting me. I had made a mistake, not noticing a part of their policy and although it was extremely hard, I stayed polite and I was able to get the seller to actually send me the parts that was missing. Afterwards the seller stoplisted me. Not that I ever want to buy in that awfull place ever again. Thats what I hate the most. Be very aware of sellers with pages that clearly indicates a lack of english skills. If something goes wrong, communication is nearly impossible. So, my policy is to not leave any feedback at all if it goes all to hell. Otherwise I write a positive one, but explain that parts where missing or similar. But it can be nerve wracking to be so polite all the damn time. I know I am in the right to give neutral and negative feedback sometimes, but its just so much easier and restfull for the soul to forget about it and be done with it. EDIT: I advise buying in multiples of 2 if possible as sellers seem to have an easier time remembering these numbers. EDIT2: If something goes wrong, never assume, what you can´t possible know about. Package goes missing? Maybe it really did go missing. You don´t know because you didnt pay for insurance. Seller does not respond? Maybe there is something happened you dont know about so ask. My patience is quite wide, but once after almost a month and 3 messages to the seller without reply, I was very very close to giving a final ultimatum warning the seller that unless a response was had, I would have to report them, their choice not mine, which I might add I should have given earlier. I finally recieved a reply, and the dispute was solved. I was feeling the whole time that the seller just hoped I´d go away so they could keep my money, because transactions was going on at the store...BUT I cant possible know for sure what happened, so the only thing I can do is not to buy there again.

Hi everyone I find that when I design in LDD, I get to a stage when I´m done and then I go "and now I need to check what colors I can get for this model" and I usually go about it, looking up the most unusual parts on BL, copying out the parts in LDD with the colors availible. This is time consuming and I know LDD manager can sort of do it, but what I would really like, would be to, from a selection in LDD hit a button in this new program, which would then do a similar check and tell me, which colors where availible (so all parts are the same color), and maybe the next colors ordered by, how many parts that do not match. Something like this: - I select 20 parts in LDD and click button:. Program tells me: Colors availible - Black - White - Red Close matches - Dark blue (1 piece unavailible: 2540 ) - Yellow (2 pieces unavailible: 2540, 3189 ) .... So if your a programmer and want an idea for something usufull, there you go .

Hits the nail on the head. If they wanted to redo them, they could make them like the newer flexible traintracks. To all others though, why not just brick-build your own monorail? Or cheat a little and use non-lego parts? Or buy a model train instead? There are options here if you want it badly enough people.

I havnt read the interview yet, but Lego has done the police station and other sets almost every year for several decades, so thats not entirely true is it? I can understand it if he is talking about themes such as wild west. Going to read it later.

You have an actual cave for your lego, or is that some unusual wallpainting?! Amazing.

You could try building the car around one of these or the more modern counterpart. Oh yeah and fantastic car trailer by the way : )

Interesting way you have made space for two figs. Your cars reminds me of the movie 5th element for some reason : )

I have been working on my own yacht in LDD for some time now, and the first thing I thougth of when I saw this was "The Left Hand" from Donnie Brasco, with "love machine" blasting from my speakers. Seriously. This set is begging for a recreation of that scene with the friends characters as stand ins for Donnie and Lefty .

I should have provided a picture http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/571/figsn.jpg/?sa=0

Amazing how close your pickup trucks are to these: I guess we must have been similar in thought! I really like your extended cab version, and that large windscreen looks much better than I thought it would. Also looks a lot more heavy duty than the one I came up with. Just a tip: Your can arrange the arms so they don´t stick up in the air like that. Have one fig having its arms down by the sides and you should just be able to have the other fig next to it having its arm a bit up in the air, but not all the way up. Terrible explanation. Anyway ITS POSSIBLE

With all this building going on in Lego City, I was kinda wondering why I havn´t seen a construction company yet, so I am just throwing that idea out here for people to get inspiration from. A construction company would in a lego universe probably contain everything needed to build a building. So there would be an office for the architect (makes nice drawings) and the building engineer (translate the drawings into a workable solution). Maybe they have an assistant for making coffe and running errands. Then there is the builders "shack" where the foreman and the mason, carpenter, electrician, painter and other craftsmen meet in for work. Maybe there is changing rooms and showers, a place to eat lunch. Outside there is a truck for transporting materials, the workers cars and naturally there MUST be a caterpillar or similar digging machines. Maybe they have a mobile crane as well. And naturally they must have 1-2 vans sporting the company logo. Some construction materials such as doors, bricks, timber and similar have their place on the lot too. Scaffolding equipment is standing in a corner. The whole thing is fenced in and patrolled by a guardsman with a dog. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ That was my inital thought, just trowing it out there.

Thank you! The official modulars I think is actually closer to this scale than the narrower 4 wides, but they also contains quite a few more bricks. Would like to do a small house someday where one of these could be parked I belive that was indeed an Esprit. I forgot to tell that its mostly a mix of a Kenworth 379 and a 359. You could make your own. Just grab the lxf file , although some of the parts are a bit hard to get. Your welcome! I like to share my designs and se what other people can do with them so if there is something you can use all the better . The great thing about Lego though is that we can make our own as well . That 7w copcar of yours is stunning. One of the great things about 7w is that the windscreens looks so much better. Dont stop making 7ws

V-LP-11C & V-LP-11D, V-LV-69F to V-LV-70F, V-LC-21B Hey all. These models have been in the works for quite some time but I finally managed to finish most of them. I shall start right of the bat with the one that started it, the interceptor: This one was inspired mostly by Er0ls policecar, but I wanted to try and see how low I could make it. Its surprisingly stable and has some nice features. I first built a regular looking version though as seen here: This sorta developed into various open 2 seater designs: A long time ago I made a 4 seater police car. It was a bit bulky, had no doors and the minifigs had trouble looking out through the windscreen. This is the new version (in the front): Its lower and shorter, has doors and a "real" windscreen in the back. Its based on a new design I came up with that allows for minifigs to wear wide hats in their cars. This also comes in a regular version: Not entiry happy with the rear on this one though, but maybe I will find a better one someday. This next one is an update of an older model. I like the way it turned out: Due to its height, I was unable to use the "wide hat" design, but I am working on a model that has that as well. The camper in the last pic is not currently in the BS gallery. I made some changes to the design of it and will add it soon. Next up is a pickuptruck design I liked so much I made 2 of them: And the one I used the most time on, a US version of 7998 (without a trailer though): It has many nice details I think, such as a TVscreen and coffee machine(stolen from someone else). Stole the sideview mirrors too from a car transporter. Exactly which one escapes me at the moment. I did use some custom chromed parts for the exaust but besides from that, its all LEGO standard parts. There are lxf files of all models availible at brickshelf along with more pics if you want to steal something . Its also easier to view details that way. Some of these models contain some trickery but this new batch is quite stable in that department.

Stylish. Definately gonna steal this at some point .

Although I build in a 6w scale, I just find the originality and detail in these builds amazing.

Not a problem, but I´m just curious, whats the obsession with putting crash helmets into trashcans?

Okay I just had a succesfull render. Here is what I did: After hitting the "convert" button in LDD2POVRAY, BIN files and POV files are created in the output folder. I then made another folder, and moved the pov file into it. Then when opening the pov file from the new directory in POV-Ray it was able to render succesfully. I am new to both programs so I guess there is an option to tell LDD2POVRAY to put the two types of files in two different directories? It seems counter intuitive to have to move the files manually afterwards. Or maybe its simply a function of Windows XP as opposed to newer operating systems? Anyway thanks, off to do some renders!

The path makes no difference. I´ve tried having them both and each seperately. Why must the converter program be running after conversion? Didnt make any difference though. I still get the same error. Message log: Preset INI file is 'C:\DOCUMENTS AND SETTINGS\SF\DOKUMENTER\POV-RAY\V3.7\INI\QUICKRES.INI', section is '[512x384, No AA]'. Preset source file is 'C:\Documents and Settings\SF\Skrivebord\LEGO\LDD Tools\TESTRENDER.pov'. Rendering with 2 threads. Parser Options Input file: C:\Documents and Settings\SF\Skrivebord\LEGO\LDD Tools\TESTRENDER.pov Remove bounds........On Split unions.........Off Library paths: \\.\LDDIncludes C:\Documents and Settings\SF\Skrivebord\LEGO\LDD Tools C:\Documents and Settings\SF\Dokumenter\POV-Ray\v3.7\include C:\WINDOWS\Fonts Clock value: 0.000 (Animation off) Image Output Options Image resolution.....512 by 384 (rows 1 to 384, columns 1 to 512). Output file..........C:\Documents and Settings\SF\Skrivebord\LEGO\LDD Tools\TESTRENDER.png, 24 bpp PNG Dithering............Off Graphic display......On (gamma: sRGB) Mosaic preview.......Off Continued trace......Off Information Output Options All Streams to console..........On Debug Stream to console.........On Fatal Stream to console.........On Render Stream to console........On Statistics Stream to console....On Warning Stream to console.......On - "ldd_default_colors.inc" line 20: Parse Error: Illegal character in input file, value is ffffff80. Render failed - CPU time used: kernel 0.05 seconds, user 0.02 seconds, total 0.06 seconds. Elapsed time 0.95 seconds. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have roughly the same problem here, sitting on Win XP 32 bit, the following error shows when it gets to the line #include "ldd_colors_declarations.bin": "ldd_default_colors.inc" line 20: Parse Error: Illegal character in input file, value is ffffff80. I suppose it has something to do with the color options in LDD2POV?