Arioh

Can someone clarify small question about PF L motors and V1 reciver? I know, that 2 PF L motors on one channel of V1 reciver are underperfoming. So here is the question. if i put 2 recivers in model, one purely for servo and second for motors, where each L motor use its own channel, does they would reach their proper speed, and would such combination safe for hard-coupled motors? I'm trying to make rc 42077, and have only V1 recivers and regular AA battery box. Thus question above. Or what is better for model of such scale and weight - 2 L motors, 1 XL or 2 XL motors?

I didnt have any problems with my Def either... I never managed to make transmission cracking and skipping in regular play (without trying to crack it on purpose), I love how it looks, i love all that expierence with building it ( additional difficulty in my build was to build it morrored to get RHD model.)

Maybe better solution would be to use these rims https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=55982&idColor=5#T=C&C=86 ? They already come with cross axle hole instead of round pinhole

Small update. Just quickly threw together crude test body. Body and chassis are both build like tank, feels very solid and robust. Still, body could be very easily removed (in RC style) - just just need to pull out two pins, take off 2 half-bushes and HOG gear. Also its realively easy to pull out engine from chassis. Maybe ill pause here, maybe redesgin body, or made whole new entry, i didnt sure yet... UPD - Added LXF file https://www.dropbox.com/s/tbuasw7g5wy6kv9/Baja Bug.lxf?dl=0 And work on this baja-like buggy is stopped. Working on other model for TC18

Hello to all. I decided to try my weak skills in this small car challenge too. I decided to totally change while direction of my entry, instead of baja-bettle-buggy ill will do Hi-Ace style mini-truck. Old (totally different) idea:

Seems i was lucky, i never managed to make my copy of Landy to emit any cracks even on highest gears... Just careful building with ensuring that all grears didnt squeezed, proper u-joint aligment made miracle on my set.

I love this scale. I’ll try to make something too. And I have a question - 3rd party bands allowed, but is makeshift springs( made from auto pen springs) allowed?

Ouch, didn’t noticed that. I initially build blue version from my spares when first preliminary photos leaked, and i initially made hood with proper angle, thus I didn’t noticed, that in instruction that moment didn’t covered...

@Sariel Nice 42102 review, as always. But there is small aligment error in the model in the video. And such error i saw nearly in any review... Hood of the tractor is paralel to horizont in your build, when it should be sloped. Here is the photo of said error: lime original set - correct hood position, blue spare-piece replica - position like in your, and many other reviews... But still, its awesome little set, and b-model is good too - it features rear wheel steering, and chassis isnt exactly same.

@Nebulaire, nowhere, just build it only by using picture on the back of the box and official promotion video as reference. Here LXF model of B model https://www.dropbox.com/s/7h7jzuoixpmelb9/42102 b.lxf?dl=0

I love that small and fun set. Both A and B models are awesome and cute. This small set is also nice part donor too.

Wow... it looks so awesome in bold dark azure. All those bright splashes of other colors looks awesome. Do you have Stud.IO of your modifications? Did you tested my version of steering system? If your model still have default mounting points for bodywork, you just can build my RC chassis to have good rc model. And shaky bumpers on half-pin with studs are fun in RC model - you need 2-3 good angled crashes to leave them on the ground, or get dragged half-detached behind the car :) And what do you think overall about my edits to this model after you build it physically?

Aaand, my gift to myself for new year is bought... So excited to build those little fellas.

@sirslayer is correct, im in game too. My entry was one of the earliest and one of the simpliest... But damn, this contest made 8081 to be one of my favorite sets...

Thank you for a model, ill gave it a look. Sadly, it need to reconstruct chassis around rear wheels. Fat rear wheels's tires collides with https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32009#T=A And when you build my drift car - make sure that you redownload LXF file - to have latest wersion with all reinforcement fixes. About quick-detach. It has 2 intention - to add playability as you noticed, and to easen process of bodywork disassembly, hich shortens time needed to swap panels between RC and non-RC chassis. Waiting photos of your azure variant.

Yea, but about black version avalible... what im doing wrong with LR configurator?

Ill just leave it here

I was bored at the evening... And decided to recreate 42102 using photos that avalible now... ANd what can i say - its very fun little set. It has steering, working PTO, and attachment can be rised and lowered. ((i didnt have Linear actuator mount base, so i was forced to jury-rig my onw substitute, and neither i have 36T gears - thus 2 pairs of 20T gears used.))

I will install Studio today and will check your Palomino. Also, if you would build either of my versions IRL, please, share your comments on build and usability of them. Also, can you share file with your modifications? UPD - can you convert your Palkomino to LXF model - its easier more comfortable to me to build in LDD then in stud.io UPD. I managed to fix problems with 8-tooth gear in drivetrain - managed to add bracing structure, which now stopping gear when it trying to slide out. LXF file now have fix implemented.

Second this - with careful building, when you are check that all gears have enough freedom for spinning freely, correct U-joins and differential aligment (central one, which with wrong spacing scrub agaisnt U-joints) - You wouldnt hear any cracking in transmission at all.

And here is it - my lazy RC mashup of Blue muscle car. (Warning - picture heavy post) All RC done with regular lego parts: L-motor for drive, Servo for steering, IR V1 reciver for control, and AA battery box as power source. RC chassis fits in same dimersions as manual one, and Set's outer shell fits it without alterations. Obligatory belly shot Due low ground clearance and servo wire - model is indoor only, better use on smooth surfaces. Photo also shows nice steering lock, which is around 40 degrees, thus making model very agile and nimble. However, i didnt recommend to run it with Buwizz, especially with overdrive... Because of how cramped model is, its drivetrain could cope only with regular power. All thanks to 8-tooth gear used in it, which starts to skip and cracks under significant torque. I used old 8-tooth gear to lower chances of it being click and crack against battery box power outltet. Still i dint found any ways to reinforce it in current setup. If you, guys, have your ideas about reinforcing or completly rebuilding chassis - please, let me know. On bright side - battery box is isnt buried deep in the chassis Just remove 5L liftrarms above it and split chassis at halves to get access to BB. Both, original manual and my RC chassis side by side And two shots of manual's chassis upgraded steering, which as i mentioned before - works smootly and has impressive for technic car steering lock of approx 42 degree And final shot with both chassis' and outer panelling Short, horrible video of model in action: And LXF file of RC chassis: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xjv476hq5gdojtq/42098 RC drifter.lxf?dl=0

I also build blue (erm... orange) car this set from my spare parts back at august when instructions were released. It came out rather similair to @johnnym`s one, althought with differences. I flattened rear axle on same level to the front, slightly adjusted steering system (it still use nearly same solution as the original set, but steering lock is around 42 degrees, and i still can think that i can squeeze few more from it). i kept powerdome from original model, but with different shape, and rear was redesigined, it reminds me crazy mix between SIlvia's S15 and Supra's ones. Both, front and rear bumpers are quickly and easily detachible. Currently going to redo it into motorised version with AA battery box (the only that i have). Photos of old, manual version Overall idea for that drift style vehicle was inspired by Silvia S14 Rocket Bunny Boss LXF file with my edits. Small Technic wheelarchs replaced with custom solutuion. https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4ak3j15m6terlz/42098 drifter.lxf?dl=0

Also make sure that u-joints didnt grind against 24z gears nearby. I had such issue, thankfully its easy to correct. (Note to myself, do not build such complex models when drunk)

Will you share instructions for your upgrades?

Hmmm... i wonder - Defender's rims - hit or miss?