Wurger49

Thank you, all of the designs are based on the original LEGO builds, I had to arrange and connect it cleanly and in the same design language of the rest of the castle.

Cheers, let me know if you have any questions when you build your one, unfortunately, the Ideas Blacksmith is no a bigger scale to the castle

LEGO MODs are an ongoing process for me, with more time on my hands, I look to improve the model where I can. With feedback from fellow AFOLs, the empty door frame on the keep next to the staircase is an eyesore, it was a rush job as the it’s a piece that can hold up the upper level. I decided to fill up the frame with the 1x1 yellow bricks and round plates, and 1x1 brown plates; to find just enough 1x1 yellow bricks, I had to gut out the counterweight of the trebuchet for its bright yellow bricks and replaced them with dark stone grey ones. I even had to remove two bright yellow bricks on top of the windows, replaced them with two reddish brown ones, this actually turned out well as it created a nice diagonal pattern following the slope of the roof. I was short of two 1x1 reddish brown plates, so I had to use two 1x1 round plates on the two inside columns as they are hidden from view. Finally, I had to sacrifice the trebuchet again by removing the 1x10 back plate so I can connect the arch columns. I quite enjoy this improvisation when working within the limitation of the official LEGO 31120 pieces. I moved the staircase inside by one stud to allow for the wooden beam and column, it was easier than I thought, just had to change out some bricks one the wall and move the nougat brick holder to the edge of the plate it is sitting on. As I was adding to the wooden keep, I nearly knocked down the great tower, I realised that it was missing a stone column on the ground level! The original LEGO model only had a wooden column as there was a small house on top, I didn’t think to reinforce the inside corner leading to a wobbly tower, all fixed after two 1x1x3 bricks. I still managed to have a working trebuchet even after taking away a lot of the original pieces, the hole plate is moved higher one, so the chain does not dangle as much while in resting position. The arm is longer due to the pieces I had to work with, the longer arm had the unexpected benefit of balancing the counterweight, the original LEGO counterweight is slanted as it’s only connected on one side by a single peg. As I am in the mode of improvements, I reinforced the front legs of the dragon with a 1x1 green flower and 1x2 sand yellow plate each, the original single stud connection is weak, the front legs keep on falling off with play. That was the first step of the to improve on the keep section, however, the location of the staircase is still creating an awkward space where a door would not make sense. Now I know it’s quite easy to move the staircase I decided to move it completely to the watch tower section. This allowed me to complete the flooring on the keep, add in a dining table and an inward-opening door, plus an extra treasure chest. The nougat brick holder now sits on an inverted roof tile. I changed the base plates of the watch tower to one 6x6 and 2x2 brick yellow plates, moved the stairway there locked in by two 2x4 sand yellow plates. I connected the staircase one stud from the edge of the section so it sits centerline of the castle. I finished this section with an armory crate of twelve 1x1 round bricks sitting on two 2x2 reduced plates. Looking forward for comments and feedback please. 31120 MOD Changes by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Changes by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Changes by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Changes by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Changes by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Changes by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Changes by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Changes by R Y, on Flickr\ 31120 MOD Changes by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Changes by R Y, on Flickr Thank you, just made some change interior changes.

Definitely, I made a self-imposed rule of using pieces from the 31120.

Hi eldiano, that empty door frame is still bugging me, it was a rush job and I am working on moving pieces around and building that part up properly, stay tuned!

I would say leave them, as LEGO used the green bricks as they are meant to be rocks next to the moat or river, with moss and vegetation.

Haha, cheers, two is all you need, I see some people buying 3 sets to build all 3 LEGO designs, IMHO, connecting those 3 designs look messy... And always wait for a sale on Creator 3-in-1s!

I managed to fix the loose coat of arms, I swapped the two round bricks with two palisade bricks, topped them up with a pyramid tile, they lock in the crest securely and no more movements.

Thank you, I didn't get to have any LEGO as a kid growing up, but I am big fan of military history. As an adult, LEGO brings another level of fun and mind thinking. Yeah, fair enough, haha, MOD are more interesting than doing the standard build too.

Thank you, I was happy that I was able to pull off the two-storey keep, facing the river. The bright yellow colour really adds to the model. For the higher walls, are you referring to the battlements/crenellation? The original LEGO ramparts and battlements are quite low. Thank you!

Thank you for the feedback! It was the easiest way to support the 2nd level and not very noticeable when the castle is enclosed. The frame is overhanging the stairway by 2 studs. It's not ideal, but I haven't figured out a better solution yet. Thank you!

Hi guys, I wrote up on a topic for the MOD of 31120 on this forum, hope it helps others, and also looking for ways to improve.

Hi Captain, I managed to fix the loose coat of arms, I swapped the two round bricks with two palisade bricks, topped them up with a pyramid tile, they lock in the crest securely and no more movements. Photos and description of my MOD in the link below.

This topic has a lot of photos inside, to make it easier for everyone to see the updated version of my MOD, I have been editing this first post to show the latest version, 24 July 2021. From two sets of 31120 Medieval Castle; I built a Grand Castle, a trebuchet, and a four-legged dragon, no extra pieces required. It has been featured on Blocks Magazine Issue 83. Your feedback is welcome or share your MOD ideas please! A photo review is on Brickset, its format is easier to read compare to the forum posts. https://brickset.com/reviews/60120 YouTube photo video: Version 1 Design Notes please read towards the bottom of this post. Version 2 Design Notes Version 3 Design Notes Version 4 Design Notes Version 5 Design Notes Four-legged Dragon Design Notes LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr Here is a summary of the modifications up to version 5. I started building both sets simultaneously bag by bag over a few nights. I find this is the most efficient way to build two of the same sets, learning the building techniques and sorting out the pieces by building them into the castle. I wanted to build up four towers on the castle, incorporated the pavilion roof of model B into the great tower next to the yellow wooden keep. The keep is built up using two flipped window and chimney yellow wattle and daub buildings, shortened to fit inside the rampart. I added a second 1x8 reddish brown brick as a beam to the floor, rearranged them both so they are spaced equally from edges, moved the grey bricks to fit accordingly. With the watermill and dark azure plates only on 2 sides of the castle, my castle is sitting on the bend of a river, so I placed yellow wattle and daub structures with windows facing that way to have a waterfront view. I studied the towers on the gatehouse, which is composed of two sections each on the ramparts, I can use three sections for the great tower and one section to raise the corner tower by one level. The great tower became five storeys tall, I added two dragon gargoyles at the lower floor above the watermill to balance out the heavier top design. The crenels on all the battlements are raised by one brick high, the slope tiles on the merlons are flipped so they face outwards. Merlons on battlements should be as tall as soldiers to shield them from projectiles. I put the weathervane on top of the great tower, plenty of flags already on the other three towers. The location of the old staircase is awkward with my modification, I decided to move it to the corner tower section. This allowed me to complete the flooring on the keep, add in a tapestry table, plus the well on the ground floor. I had the stone battlements on the great tower for the first three versions of my MOD, then I finally realised it does not need to be there, as the alchemy study is enclosed and has no use for the machicolations. It was an easy fix; I swapped the stone battlements with the yellow wattle and daub boards. I added a brick high of yellow and brown bargeboard to the watch tower roof to add a splash of colour to the otherwise entirely grey corner. Moving to the front of the gatehouse, I tiled up the entire footbridge and build up the outside moat bank with olive green round half plates and some other pieces for support. A protruding portcullis was made by a clipped-on horizontal barred door. I find the coat of arms above the gate fiddly; it moves around with slightest amount of motion. I swapped the two round bricks with two palisade bricks, topped them up with a pyramid tile, they lock in the crest securely and no more movements. The treasure chests have been moved to the gatehouse. I used two 22385 2x3 light bluish grey pentagonal tiles to replace the 2x2 dark bluish grey tiles above the gate. Those two dark bluish grey tiles went to the pavilion roof of the great tower, I didn’t like how the pentagonal tiles stuck out of the roof. The apple tree moved into the wall by one stud, has five 6x5 leaves, two green apples with four arches acting as branches, using a twig to connect two 6x5 leaves that are offset on top of each other. I changed all pink studs to yellow studs on the ground, so apple tree has pink flowers, and the ground has yellow daisies. I raised the ramparts to the same height on the second level of the four towers. I started on the section next to the five-storey great tower. I built a second set of clip and bar to secure the wall connections. I tried different arrangements of 1x3 and 1x4 arches, but only the 1x3 arches allow for the even spaced machicolations on battlements with no overhang onto the next section, I wanted to keep the castle in three sections for ease of move and storage. All hinge connections are removed from the model, so the plates are secure on both floors. The river is now connected on the two sections, as side walls can’t open up after I removed the hinges. I took out two round corners and one 2x4 plate, replaced them with one 4x12 plate, added some waves, an olive green slope and medium azure 2x2 round. The river is also lengthened by two bricks with a new green mossy rock tower base and buttresses. A phoenix shrine is built using round corner bricks. I used the 4x8 dark tan plates with 6x6 plates, so the footprint of the space is the same as a tower. Before I started, I changed the base of the corner tower section to the 8x16 tan plate, so there is enough depth for the columns. For the connection of the round bay window corners to the square battements, I tried a few variations, I decided on the sloped version using 3665 2x1 inverted slopes; I used one 3676 2x2 inverted double convex slope for the connection of dark tan plates. There are ten furnished spaces inside the keep tower and the corner tower sections: most of the designs are taken from the original LEGO model and modified. - Double beer barrel dispenser - Kitchen with bench and fire stove - Fruit stall - Well with a bucket - Blacksmith workshop - Phoenix shrine - Dining room with a tapestry table - Throne room - Lookout room with a monocular - Alchemy study I still had enough pieces to make the trebuchet, though had to use some different pieces. Lastly, I modified the LEGO dragon to a four-legged dragon, built up the torso so the ball joints for the wings and front legs are three plates apart, new shorter and slimmer front leg, a longer tail and wingspan with a new connection for the wrist claw. ORIGINAL POST ON 9TH JUNE Following last year’s 31109 Pirate Ship, I was very excited to find out LEGO is bringing back the Castle theme via the Creator 3-in-1 set 31120, it’s not as expensive as the Creator Expert sets and it’s within my budget to purchase two sets to do my MOD. I purchased two sets on 1st June from Hobbyco, the best hobby store in Sydney, I started building both sets simultaneously bag by bag over the next week. I find this is the most efficient way to build two of the same sets, learning the building techniques and sorting out the pieces by building them into the castle. This time I decided to use only the pieces from the two sets, no extras from my spare LEGO for this MOD. My original intention is to combine Model B, The Watch Tower into the enclosed castle, as there is no tower on the yellow wattle and daub manor house corner, I wanted to add it there. I reversed the location of the chimney and windows as the blacksmith with the watermill remained on the corner. I connected the same building to create a two-storey house/keep and removed the doors and window covers, shortened the roof, to allow it to fit inside the length of the original rampart. With the watermill and dark azure plates only on 2 sides of the castle, I think the castle is sitting on the side of a river, so I placed yellow wattle and daub structures with windows facing that way to have a waterfront view. With the physical model in front of me, I realised that I cannot simply add the original LEGO Model B on top as its base section is too big. I studied the towers on the gatehouse, which is composed of two sections each on the ramparts, I can use three sections for the great tower and one section to raise the watch tower by one level. I progressed pretty quickly with the pre-built sections, making sure the arrow loops and red/white banners are arranged in the same manner as the gatehouse. Please be aware that the two battlement arrangements are opposite of each other, only two sides have machicolations and I used the wrong battlement on the great tower, I only realised that after looking at photos that the machicolations are facing the keep’s roof, not the outside wall, I had to fix that and retook the photos again. I removed the prison cell windows so I can have the black window pieces on the keep and give the gold pieces to the great tower windows. I moved the archery target range to the pop out cell wall. The crenels on the towers are raised by one brick high, both the crenels and merlons on the ramparts are raised by one bricks high each, the slope tiles on the merlons are flipped so they face outwards. Merlons on battlements should be as tall as soldiers to shield them from projectiles. I put the weathervane on top of the great tower, plenty of flags already on the other three towers. Moving to the front of the gatehouse, I find the coat of arms above the gate fiddly, it moves around with slightest amount of motion. I swapped the two round bricks with two palisade bricks, topped them up with a pyramid tile, they lock in the crest securely and no more movements. The well is now secured to the back of the gatehouse by swapping out the brick yellow 2x2 plate with a 2x8 plate, located next to the food stall. I was still able to build the trebuchet, just have to use some different coloured pieces. I didn’t build any animals from the set initially as I was rushing to finish the castle, I can build two dragons from the pieces but I didn’t like how it has one claw per wing and no front legs. I built the fronts legs like the hind legs, expanded the wingspan and lengthen the tail by one section. I also added some more 1x1 roof tiles as fins on the back of the dragon. The Disney Castle 71040 dwarfs the Medieval Castle 31120 side by side, the Disney Castle is still my favourite LEGO set! They are what I have done for the MOD up to today, hope to see other’s MODs and feedbacks. Please share with us on comments. LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr

Some more updates, the air scoops were too long, the tip are now formed by Wedge 2 x 1 with Stud Notches, followed by 2 x 3 tiles. The light bluish plates 1 x 8 are now offset by 3 stubs beneath the tiles. I extended the Reddishe Brown Plate to the round plate on the driver side, I had to change how the seat is connected by moving the 1 x 2 plate. I added a second Round Plate 4 x 4 with 2 x 2 hole to enhance the round shape of the thrust blades. On the top of the engine I used two curved 1 x 1 double slopes and Curved 2 x 2 x 2/3 Slope. IMG_5503 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5504 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5506 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5505 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5507 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5510 by R Y, on Flickr Thank you, how did you go with your version?

No worries, if you have any other questions on the parts used, let me know

I built my speeder exactly as stocky13's instructions on reddit, then I changed things bit by bit over the next 2 weeks. The design of the engine core with the 4 reddish brown triangular plates, and how the 2 air sccops are attached remained mostly the same. I removed a plate from his design so the spinner of the enigne lines up with the thrust cone at the back, when that was done, I was able to move the 3x3 wedges closer. The seat was simplied to an arm up plate and a 2x2 hinge plate, with a 1x2 plate for support, sitting on the inverted 1x2 bracket. The air scoop i wanted to keep to 2 plates thick, a 1x8 plate connects via 2 studs onto the hinge plate wihat finger, the second 1x8 is offset by 2 studs for the hinge arms. I used a 2x2 stud plate instead of all 1x2 stud plates to reduce the amount of gaps on the scoop and the grille pieces are not loose. I tried a lot of combinations to hide the hinge connections and not look bulky, I ended up using 2540 plate with bar handle open ends. Engine nacelle is connected by a 32073 axle 5 onto the inverted bracket, it uses one 2x2 round pate, one 2x2 round tile, two 98585, one 73111, one connector axle 2L, one bar with light cover. The thrust cone is a 2x2x2 cone with a vertical swirl round plate. The nozzle is stocky13's design. The rest are mainly superficial changes on how to decorate the 4 sides of the engine. I even used 2 projectile launcher 15301c01 for the base. Stocky13's design of inverted for half of the engine core allowed me to add 2 centreline pieces on the cowling.

cheers, thank you thank you, ah, I have seen quite of few mocs on aliexpress, where the designers don't get credit

UPDATED VERSION on the 24/04/2021 IMG_5503 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5505 by R Y, on Flickr I started off with building up the Cobb Vanth speeder using pieces of the 75299 set, based on the guide from reddit user stocky13, very smart use of inverted pieces to create the core of the speeder. The new Round 3 x 3 x 2 with Recessed Center and Axle Hole makes a great engine intake with the Bar with light cover. File_002 by R Y, on Flickr File_003 by R Y, on Flickr File_000 by R Y, on Flickr File_001 by R Y, on Flickr File_004 by R Y, on Flickr File_005 by R Y, on Flickr File_006 by R Y, on Flickr File_007 by R Y, on Flickr

thank you, I like how you did the beach drydock!

Thank you for the review, I will pick up this set as I don’t have the 2015 play set, and don’t want to pay the high price for it. With Lego’s price hikes, even their kids sets are getting expensive.

I have no problems with the gun sitting on the plate with bar arm up in the original Lego design. When I moved the plate to the centreline, I removed the tripod base off the E-Web, so I can fit the 2 standing stormtroopers. Interested to see how you attached them?

The 75288 is a great set to start off with, I made some small modifications to have 6 snowtroopers sitting down on sand blue chairs, 2 stormtroopers standing, 1 scout trooper sitting on the speeder bike. I moved the E-Web heavy repeater blaster storage to the centreline, removed some sloped pieces to free up space. The standing 2 stormtroopers need to stand on a 2 x 2 Plate so the side panels can close properly. 72588 Mod by R Y, on Flickr 75288 Mod1 by R Y, on Flickr 75288 Mod2 by R Y, on Flickr 75288 Mod3 by R Y, on Flickr 75288 Mod4 by R Y, on Flickr

What a great topic! With Boba back on Mando Season 2, I finally built Slave 1 – 20th Anniversary Edition 75243 that I got on sale last year, to go with the Razor Crest, curiously to know what Mando gets as the replacement to Razor Crest. Very keen to see your comparison 75243 to the others if you have the time to write it up and post it here.

thank you, wow, that is indeed an old piece, I didn't even know it existed, it's great as it slopes on both sides. I will keep it in mind when I do my next bricklink order.