Nazgarot

Thanks for the replays. I'll start on this today. A WIP tread should be up within a few days. Hopefully I can have it finished before the end om July :)

Would it be ok to take a former failed project, and rework it into a tracked vehicle, or does it need to be a fresh concept/idea? The whole structure would be remade and both propulsion and scale would have to be changed, but a few mechanical ideas would be reused... Basically it would be a completely new vehicle based on a former failed design. If this is not clear I also have a second idea, but not sure I got the time. ED

I've been doing a lot of testing trying to get this right. I first tried to mod it so the linear actuator was under the linkage (like the real machine), but it requires a lot of restructuring and basically rebuilding most of the loader arms. I agree that this is the best quick fix, especially if combined with Jundis fix from the top of the page. This removes any forcing of the lift actuators in lower position and allows for a better up angle in lower position. Thanks to both @Apple and @Jundis for these ideas!

Well, 42209 was amazing! A really good parts pack and one of the most complex and compact official sets I've ever built even though the functions are quite basic. I recomend it for anyone who likes compact builds with lots of complex building techniques! If this is a sign of what is to come I'm thinking we have a lot good coming. I clearly prefer these kind of sets over large empty RC sets that have a super high price, but very little complexity... Both the large RC bulldozer and the large RC crane was bummers for me. To expensive an felt like I build hollow models that could have been much more...

That is an amazing and very good looking build! One of the best shaped vehicles I've seen in this class! Very good work! Would like to see some technical shots of what is below the body and form the underside. _ED_

The looks are okish, the tires great, and for the functions... They at least make room for improvements and modifications :) I think it is a great little sett as a base for modifications, a little like the Unimog. Room enough to make some cleaver solutions to control the diffs, to modify the suspension setup, and maybe to make some manual gearboxes. I can see myself moding it as a old G240 or G300 from the 80s with 4 speed manual and reduction gearbox as well as front and rear diffs. That would also include a full rebuild of the front for a solid axle setup and an i4 or i5 engine. This might be the first buy of the year for me :) Edit: A string or flexwire setup could make a realistic diff lock solution as that is what is on real models from the 80s. And could also be very compact...

Thank you very much for the feedback. There are som options here I had not considered that may be a good way to build my collection. I haven't used pick a brick much, and that list is really helpful jodawill I also haven't considered sets outside off historic or nature related themes, but I clearly see the possibility of buying SW, Disney, HP and other licensed series and selling the parts I don't need. Maybe it's about time to start selling on BL and not only buy... Thanks MAB! Hopefully I'll be more active here with some mocs in time, but for now, again, Thanks for the feedback! _ED_

Hi. I'm an AFOL who mainly has been building technic models and have a substantial collection of Technic Lego as well as a few other sets. As a kid back in the 80s and 90s I had no interest of the Castles line, but after my darkages back around 2008 I started getting interested again. I did however have few system parts, and could not afford to buy a lot, so I mostly got Technic sets. I did however pick up a few Castle and SW sets along the way. I'm now at a point where I'm ready to invest a bit in the Castle line in order to make medieval style mocs, and need a few tips for how to build up a good assortment of parts. TLDR: I'm looking for tips on what sets make good parts packs as well as other ways to increase my parts collection. Below I've listed the sets I have, and are about to buy. Have: 7979: Castle Advent Calendar (2008) 10193: Medieval Market Village 7189: Mill Village Raid 31120: Medieval Castle x2 21325: Medieval Blacksmith 31132: Viking Ship and the Midgard Serpent Planning to buy: 21343: Viking Village 10305: Lion Knights' Castle 10332: Medieval Town Square Considdering (Are these good parts packs?) 21318: Tree House (Can get it for €190) 21341: The Sanderson Sisters' Cottage 10325: Alpine Lodge

I love this idea! But I would swap the water for silicon oil. som thin oil like 60 - 100 wt would do well i would think, and it would also lubricate all the seals... I have to get my printer running. I need to try this! _ED_

Thanks for this! Will be next up on my project list! :)

Because the holes are offset on the studded beams the beams in figure 3-34 has exactly 3 Lego unit between them vertically across the gray beam. In figure 3-35 there is less than 3 Lego units between the holes, and no beam can be connected vertically across the beams using opposing holes. I believe this is what Sariel was refering to.

I have lots of gray frames that have cracked or become brittle. I have no problems with black ones. Might actually be that the black plastic somehow is more resistant to aging/UV/mechanical stress... _ED_

Still sounds like a sun gear in your diff is missing. This model is always 4WD, but has lockable diffs. I guess that is what you refer to with "diff mode", while locked being 4WD? With the diffs locked it would work anyway, but with open diffs no power would be transferred to that wheel. A simple way to test this is to set the difflock off and test that the opposite wheel on each axle counter spin when you rotate the other wheel. You should also be able to feel if the wheel is connected to the driveline or not. The diff should have 5 internal gears, but it is easy to forget the last one... If this is not the case short video of the problem would be very helpful for us to help you further. Just upload a short clip of the problem with some explanations to Youtube and give us a link. _ED_

The following things have been my main takeaway: 1: Steering geometry and how angles affect steering stability. 2: Adder-subtracktor gearboxes and vectored drive systems. 3: Testing mechanical principles like the watt's linkage, and learning how to apply them. 4: Using CAD software to test ideas before trying them out in reality, and the ability to predict problems with a physical build vs CAD. In general I have learned a lot, but much of that is exploring implementations of things I already knew, like mechanical principles. For example the importance of gearing down a drivetrain after the differential to reduce the stress on differentials and gearboxes.

This is an impressive model, with great performance! I'm actual quite stunned that you managed to fit it all in such a small model, and still maintain that level of performance! Would love to see more SnowRunner trucks from you! :)

This is really cool! Great engineering! Would bee cool if you inverted the "programing chain" 90 degrees so that you could link multiple panels to display streaming codes. _ED_

I suggest you try and see how far you get. When reverse engineering always begin with the parts that are easiest to see, then work out the rest from there. Often it can be a great help having the parts around to see where and how parts must be mounted. Best of luck to you. Maybe we can help each other if/when I can find the time :) Would be cool to start a Reverse engineering thread for it as a forum project, if it is ok by Lipko. _ED_

From what I can see the pictures are quite detailed. It should be possible to do a complete reverse engineering of this model. Personally I do not have enough time at the moment, but I suggest you try your hand to reverse engineer it with a Lego Cad program. _ED_ Edit: Actually after seeing the video again, I think I will reverse engineer it. But as I said I don't have the time right now. Maybe next weekend if Lipko don't mind.

This is impressive! I like how it is coming along, and I'm very excited to see your choices for bodywork. Could you make a demo video to show how the dual drive system works offroad? The gear train seems a bit weak to me, but might be ok if the model is light enough... _ED_

This is what I love in a B-model! A great well functioning model that is very different form the main model! This seems very good! I just wish Lego could be as creative and start including B-models again... _ED_

Way to cool to be "the most boring vehicle/object in the world"! Great and creative work! _ED_

The string is the missing part in all the experiments I've done. It saves a lot of space for making the valves/pistons. I find i very hard to make anything this compact without that ingenious solution, but if someone can come up with something better I'm all ears. Best of luck trying. We as a community might be onto a new super-compact solution for fake engines. This reminds me of some of the collaborate projects back when I first discovered Eurobricks. :) _ED_

Thanks! This is a great idea for how to simulate working valves for fake engines! I have been looking into that problem for years without finding a good solution. But the half L bushes is a great idea if it is combined by a crankshaft that requires less space... And an idea for that came up in the copetiotion to make small cars for the car transporter sets a while ago. Simply stack low 1 stud tiles and connect them to a axle and you have it. I will do some experiments :)

That is a genius idea, and probably the best purist solution I've seen for making the helicopter more to scale. Hope to see some results as this is a mod I'm highly interested in. _ED_

There seems it might have enough space in the floor for a by wire control system from pedals to rear rotor pitch. The hard mod will be building a small enough pitch system to keep it in scale. I would also expect to see mods to make the oversized motor panels smaller to make it more to scale with the model without covers. These are mods I would implement in a second if anyone can come up with them. I wont be getting this before Christmas, so little chance of being first... Another nice mod would be a very low speed for the rotor rather than the current low speed. This would make the blade pitch change much easier to see. I'm excited to see what people will come up with. For me this has turned from a "meh..." to a "must buy" after having seen the reviews! :) _ED_