pleegwat

For the steering mode, consider that the 'turn in place' mode really only works for a single steering position.

With how expensive PU tends to be, I imagine they did it for cost reasons. And of course a motor compressor as an optional feature with separate motorization set (as in 42053) is out, since I don't think they do separate motor kits any more.

I don't think the real thing has steering modes, so I certainly wouldn't expect it on a model either. The gearing on the drill arm looks strange. At a glance it's all just for the shoulder up/down motion. But why is that axle going into the body if none of the other degrees of freedom are geared? Definite must-buy for me though.

Do we know how close to release last year they postponed it? Is it possible that it was postponed after this version went to Liebherr for final approval?

3-34 appears misaligned here. However actually, the hollow studs on a half-pin can fit the bottom of a technic beam in two ways: The normal way any stud fits, or at a half-offset with the hollow stud fitting over the bump on the bottom of the pinhole on the beam.

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Very impressive

Haven't we already done an upscaling contest?

Would it be possible to use 1x2 jumper plates to bridge the half-stud offset?

I'm not so sure this is the case, however other costs (moulding, storage) likely correlate to the size and/or weight of the piece, and the size of the piece itself also correlates to the weight of the piece. Shipping costs also tend to be significant, and the shipping cost of a boxed lego set depends on its size and weight. Those two correlate, and in the case of lego probably weight dominates anyway.

If you're mounting the differential between flipflop beams rather than in 5x7 frames, you can use 5.5L axles which don't need separate fixing. However I think those are not quite long enough for doubles.

It's likely they only marketed those products where the hardware was popular. I've heard that the C64 was way more popular in Europe than it was in the US; I don't know about the other two.

You can use this part, though it takes 1 module of space between the gears: Or there's these old ones, but I don't know how much force that connection can take.

I'd see if I could lengthen the black horizontal bars behind by a module or two toward the motor to get more overlap between the beams. Only one pin overlap feels iffy. I don't have it in my hands though, and it may well be fine in practice as-is.

Looks like a good solution. The only potential problem I see is that the orange and grey liftarms may have more friction than the original solution, but I doubt that's significant.

Nice creative solution. That's for undeveloped film; this film has been developed.

My gut says heating either the filament or a mould and squeezing the ends into shape would be more reliable than cutting, but making an appropriate mould is probably a metalworking challenge rather than a 3d printing one.

That would be an interesting approach for sure.

Could you cheat by only connecting a hose to the port at the base of the cylinder, and simply releasing pressure to let the hatch drop?

I've philosophised the same thing. Certainly the older PU gets, the less likely it becomes that such a component is introduced. I don't think it would be too unreasonable a component though.

I moved my millenium falcon, saturn V, and LUT to my parents' place last weekend. I know both the system models have damage and the launch tower (which is almost pure technic) was in just as many pieces as it started out in. I haven't unpackaged anything though; it needs to move to my new house next month and I'll figure out the damage after. I'm taking the other display sets next weekend; we'll see if the pattern holds.

The proper total number of teeth (sum of both gears) to get a perfect mesh is 16 times the distance in studs. for the 1x1 diagonal, the ideal number of teeth is 22.6. 12:8 links only have 20 teeth total, which simply is not enough. It's not going to work any better with a 12z spur gear than it does with a 12z double bevel.

You can use the powered up app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lego.common.poweredup&hl=en&gl=US

But the rotor rotation doesn't have a reverse mode. It has a slow and a fast mode in the same direction.

Key word there is curve. 5L beams are straight.