sirslayer

I agree about the servo, ill bring it down and redo all my motors mounts and to make the steering more Ackermann without limitations.. Well I have version 2.0 of my chassis coming up soon and it still retains the original design but with more functions. Piece count over 125 Important upgrade or changes Center differential to alter speed between front and rear axle for more Ackermann enhancements . 12 volt operation.. Yes, I said it Real suspension 2 link per axles Cab design, day cab with fake engine, cockpit and lights . Here is my sneak preview 12 Volt operation I present a 12 volt mod and Please be cautious using any 12 volt or higher batteries after market batteries . They can exploded if contacted with water or any mishandling. This can void any warranties on your equipment and this web site or I are not responsible for any injuries or damage. If you don't agree to those terms then you can just leave this thread. The is AFOL site and therefore ill show my presentation I was able to use a Black and Decker 12 volt battery from a power drill. The battery sports a 12 Volt Max 1.5 Ah Lithium-Ion 1400mah and there are models that does 2000mAh / 2.0Ah (24Wh) on the higher end.from 14 dollars to 36 dollars USD makes this a very affordable battery. A charger is required and 500 charge times till memory loss and up to 18 months of storage with a full charge. and a few pictures of the M motor mounted with Lego 8869, Now you can control your slave battery A few videos on the performance I installed 2 XL motors and it didnt last that long, the second XL motor pops off and it started to dig a hole and bury itself.. Wow very strong torque and higher rpms.. back to the drawing board!!

wow!!

is this tapping? @Aventador2004, and what didn't i figure out?? u-joints fix would be on my next posting .. did i over seen something else?? I fixed my grammar and maybe my picture was misleading i should of drawn the red line a lot further to show where anti-ankermann would intersect so ill show an anti-ankermann results for clarification .. see how the angles of both front wheels don't intersect with the rear axle at the center of a turn

I like the realism of your chassis. If im understanding your chassis correctly its on a uni-body frame and that would be a challenge to build.. I hope it works out in the end!!

To Ackermann or not to Ackermann (Anti-Ackermann) that is the question!! After @aventador2004 corrected me on Ackermann steering (high 5 to you) I made a simple tool to correctly show the angles to the center of the turn. The red line and blue line should be a trapezoid in shape .. as you see im using Ackermann steering on my picture The steering bar on Anti-Ackermann is located near the front of the tire vs behind on Ackermann. So its a very easy to setup Ackermann or Anti-Ackermann.. Which steering type is recommended depends on what kind of a Rc chassis that you plan to build.. An Ackermann based with a limited slip differential and a positive wheel offset would give the best in smooth turns and less wear on your tires. If you were designing a bus or a family car Rc chassis , i would feel safe to include Ackermann steering for realistic turns. Use Anti-Ackermann If you want to design your Rc model for quick turns and crazy stunt like handling with the expensive of unrealistic turns and even some tire wear (since its Lego, tire's can be replaced. I have never seen a worn out Lego tire but it can happen!!) @M_longer posted a very helpful picture on this thread and the last diagram on his picture shows wheel offset.. Soon Ill finish my testing and observations of Lego 68.7 mm rim and of course a high 5 to M_longer for pointing it out!!

simple is good

I couldn't resist, The DIY Poor Man's ,Ultimately ghetto battery Mr. Lego meet your replacement!! Mr. Series The 12 volt wonder!! !

@johnny1360 thank you for your optimism !!

it is flatter and it would be easy to install but the 12v black and decker battery is almost the same size and weight compared to the lego battery pack , just a tad bigger and its cheap!! https://www.ebay.com/i/273083889184?chn=ps&fl=a

boy , you just can't add 1.5 v without major surgery so I opted for this , Hosting is the Lego 8870 led lighting cable by splicing to my new 12 volt battery , The led lights will shine to let you know that your opponents will be eating your dust!!!!

@ Imanol BB thats is very helpful advise.. as you see is this picture its very close to your examples.. almost the same!!! and this is the type of posting I like so the audience and I have learned something today !!! thank you to M_longer .. I do see what youre saying .. thats why Im losing my u-joints.. to much stress because the elbow joint doesnt match the joint that turns the axles .. . time to redesign.. !!

Im almost done with my version of the poor man's , just add 1 AA 1.5 volts in series and see what happens

@M_longer yes , the u joints!! they are in line. I can turn to the left or right to the point i need a stopper. Have you seen my video??? watch it again if your in doubt. photo i posted are examples of my mistakes and discovery to share with my audience . its been full of discoveries!

Philohome website was very helpful and he was running his test motors @ 12 v !! but dc direct connected, I've designed a simple generator by using 2 medium motors direct coupled to a Large motor which produced 3.5 volts from the pf connector and only the large motor was power up from the receiver.. ill hook up the 2 x medium motor pf connector to some led lights and they would strobe. i wonder if its possible to use the generated 3.5 volts to a XL motors for a 9 volts plus 3.5 volt over drive?

Have you seen this video??

thanks!! @Aventador2004, i needed someone to correct me and I couldn't figure out if the steering bar goes to the front of the tire or behind!! no wonder i was getting mixed results!! update: im going to keep my anti/reverse ankermann steering systems and see how far it would take me

youre right i have found this link http://www.plug.pt/forum/index.php?topic=5268.0 by the way, thats a nice looking model your sporting I wonder if the Lepin Rc receiver have any or at all some type of voltage input limitations?

@Permo this might be a silly question, so youre saying your able to feed the IR receiver with 11.1 volts and youre not worried that the receiver could over heat?? is there a heat sink inside the IR receiver ?? I thought 10.4 volts is the max voltage to feed the IR receiver??

Believe it or not , The weight and the sturdy/strenght of the beams and lift arms varies with different color.. Black color technic elements have a different uniqueness then all the other colors.. Dark gray liftarms and beams are the strongest and weighs the most.. His discovery with the black design will take him far... and his models look tight even the red white and blue.. weigh you blue, white and black of the same element on the scale and feel for strength of the beam by bending it a little and the next thing your masterpieces will be better .. good job jamesjt

hummm,, i can say this that Lego's admitted of producing to many bricks last year and the look of your collections are just the $ 50 dollars or less models that you can find on ebay. i dont know if you do have all the correct bricks or even all of them but you do have an extra differential and seems to be more pieces if i was just going by the instructions books that are laid out.. no specials sets but i did have the submarine or just a few parts left from it.. Ebay usually deals are 5 dollars for every one hundred various technic pieces .. To part with them... My bricks are gonna be buried with me when I die..

4 way reverse ackermann steering My novel approach to implement 4 wheel steering using reverse Ackermann for reasons of its behavior of its tight turns and wheel skipping for fancy car tricks . A realistic type of steering which been popular is know as Ackermann steering in the Lego technic world has taken off. Most high end technic sets should include Ackermann or otherwise a new and unique design might sneak in from time to time, with advance suspension and all the bells and whistles.. In a mini chassis design , either a simple/generic steering is implemented with a useful suspension or an advance steering with no suspension (like set 42068) is what you would end up with. My design uses an advance 4 wheel Ackermann steering with a 1 length travel simple suspension . Only a few individuals have venture this far in a mini chassis world of Ackermann and suspension . I dont even use a rack or worm gear. just levels and lift arms. some would say that type of design haves to much backlash or "gaps" when you turn to the left or right. even at center, a little drift from center can occur if the pins are worn or bent. Well my MOC having racing/ off road chassis in mind is a kind of crazy since one should design a sports car chassis differently then a off road truck. Well i found a good balance with a 4 wheel system using a pull and push of a center weighted beam. It provides the handling that is required for a sports car and the same time, the steering system allows the beams to float so it gives you travel for suspension especially when bouncing up and down from rock climbing. the next picture shows what a little back lash can lead up to if its not designed right. the top axles are centered and the bottom are off by a bit from a to tight pull to the center beam .. all four tires needs to be pointing straight when centered on a 4 wheel steering system !!!

Motors and Generator The default electric motor is the Lego XL motor, this motor geared up for speed is how my MOC was designed for. 2 x m motors and 1 l motor coupled together is also recommended. 2 x XL motor coupled together is experimental. Top speed doesn't change but acceleration and climbing up hill does improve with coupled motors. Caution, any motor of 2 x XL or more can cause damage to the axle and it can crack open your u-joints under load and stress. look in the center of the circle and you see a broken u-joint and a white powder ring around the axle, that show stress in that area!! various coupled motors The L motor coupled with 2 x M motor is very interesting!! If you only powered up the L motor and connect a led light to the 2 x M motors , it will light up .. The 2 x m motor becomes a generator!!! the voltage output is 3.56 , i wonder you can charge your batteries with this method?? or connected and power up with the L motor does it add more voltage?? more testing needs to be done!!

Simple steering The ackermann steering provides different angles on the toe when you make a turn to prevent wheel skipping. If i had a limited slip differential on the rear then make a left or right hand turn would be smooth with no wheel skips , since its a positraction the rear wheels tends to drag a little on tight turns but the trade offs are better traction for off road usage. Im happy with this trade and you can always add any functions to this modular design and swap it for testing. On my MOC the servo is mounted on top of the steering bar with no gears or levers required and the servo swings left to right so cable management is required!! .. Now that's simple!!!

@efferman, That is a nice looking cab!! is that a smaller scaled model compared to the mack truck? i can tell by the XL larger motor.. Just curious, Why not have 2 XL motors and mount them like if they were like gas tanks.. I tried to do this and it look great but i had issues with gearing!! is it possible you can figure out some type of gearing for a mounted 2 x XL motor like my picture?? I did a gearing system and it skipped like crazy. I see you mounted just one on your design near by the gas tanks would be installed and imagine with two XL fully function on your design would be awesome and i haven't seen any models that haves 2 XL motor mounted with 5 length of space in between coupled together without losing the gas tank look .. regardless your model and flat nose cab looks awesome !!

Nice color, nice theme!! I like it !!