Berthil

Nice work! Curious how the remote control looks, 6 phones? :)

The Marble Run is too high. I've made a snake ramp from relatively cheap parts after the invisible lift visible in this video from 2:20 up

After 4 re-builds I have stopped trying to make a Goldberg GBC out of it with 3 to 4 cardan arms. The tryout works but it drops too many balls to be part of a circle of GBC's running all day.

Thanks! Sorry, I didn't make an inventory file (or digital design in LDD or other program). If you are going to build and get stuck just let me know and I will help.

I've tried to put 4 arms in a row and pass on balls to each other but unfortunately the timing of the arms keeps changing and I cannot see why. The 24 tooth wheel hooks on the top of the LBG tower, could be the reason for changed timing. I also need to run it passing 1 ball per second which is may be too fast. I still like the arm movement very much, I will try to make a GBC with 4 arms with 2 parallel ball streams and less critical timing.

Also an excellent idea with the cut nails, I'll also try it on my next modular. I will get copper nails like these with flat head and 3mm width.

Very nice mechanism! I understand the neck brace to create room between the Technic cam and the liftarm L5 but it lets the gears slip in my build. Nevertheless I would like to use the liftarm mechanism in a somewhat modified way to make a serie of arms passing on balls if you permit. Of course I'll give you credit for the arm mechanism.

Market Street with 14 leds has been put back in it's place in my modular street, next in line is Parisian Restaurant and after that Green Grocer. The Parisian Restaurant should be less work with 2 floors less although it has two terraces with original 'lights' that of course will get LEDs.

I will also rebuild the Ball Factory if the improvements are reliability improvements.

Top floor also ready which completes the Market Street. LEDs put in to terrace, bedroom and bathroom with no wires visible in the interior. It looks better in real life as the human eye is better than a camera, even with these pictures shot with a 5D Mark IV.

Thanks @beverly888 for your positive comments <3

@ ER0L, thanks for your opinion, it is clear to me you like to keep it 100% TLG. I don't see any Modulars with 100% TLG lights. Meanwhile 2nd floor Market Street is ready.

2nd floor of the bakery is ready, here without walls. I've added LEDs to dough table, oven and cabinet. The LED at the cabinet will have a 1x2 reflector tile above it attached to the ceiling. Tonight I will make more pictures when assembled and dark, I hope there will be some red glow visible from the oven :)

@ColletArrow The idea for the switch for the pictures is very good but it would be a lot of work just for pictures. I already have many pictures of the modular interiors because of my 'all floors tiled' project. When the LED project is finished I will do the same photo shoot of all the floors but without the studio lights :)

That a very good suggestion but have not done that. It's however already a lot of work, adding switches will add more complexity and I probably won't have the lights on during day time because I will never sell the houses and hope to get old and I hope the LEDs will get old too so I don't have to replace them. Having them on during daylight will probably shorten their life more than running them at night only. Plus I would have to apply 13 switches every night and morning to switch the exterior light on and of because I want every house to be able to stand on it's own without having a connection to the next house.

1st floor with bakery shop of Market Street done (bakery shop is not standard in the original Market Street). As a tryout I wanted to see how small I can make the lamps, at the right bottom you can see how the two lamps above the counter are composed. Above that the 3V 'lifeline' with contacts (I might use thinner wires for the next floor) So I can take of the 1st floor as intended with the Modulars and the lights go out. Put it back and the light go on. When the Market Street is done I will make a movie. Very pleased with the result so far. Standing in front you can actually see the whole shop inside with just looking through the windows. LEDs are on maximum voltage, it is possible to dim them in 6 steps with the 9V train power supply. Look how dull and dark the floors above the lighted floors look :)

@Foxw Thanks for the tip on the 4755. I would really like to use something like that but it will be hard to solder all the wiring to it. I'm also with you on the heat thing, I've looked into the SMD and concluded that's a bridge too far for me to solder. Advancing in the project I notice my skills go up on soldering the 3mm LEDs, the wires behind the LED take up less and less room. To avoid heat I'm running everything on 2,8 volts to keep the milliamps down. The 9V train regulator is able to light the LEDs from step 1 to 6 with a 100 ohm resistor to the LEDs. Alle the LEDs are in parallel because I don't want unpredictable light because of voltage drop. The 0.04 wires I found work very well. They don't knick and break and are strong when pulling. 7 Euros for 10m at Conrad

The pins are 1,2 mm copper, they wont bent and the connection is not in the long copper part. The long copper part is for soldering wires to. Indeed they are high on a shelf and only take them of the shelf only once or twice a year. Surely that discussion must have taken place somewhere else on the forum multiple times. Basically the only thing I did so far was drilling some holes and adding some none LEGO parts in the form of wiring and LEDs because you can't light up the Modulars with Powerfunction LEDs. How terrible. It took me 2 years to make the decision to add LEDs to the modulars because they are so nice but just stand there in the dark at night. Adding LEDs will make them come to life the way they deserve. I'm not trying to convince people to do the same, just to show may be a way how to do it for people that have taken the same decision. For 100% Lego fans that cannot appreciate LEDs in models (Star Wars, LOFTR, truck models etc.), just look the other way would be my suggestion.

So this is what I tried and it seems to work although it's not designed to take of the floors 10 times a day. The copper pins will transport current to the next floor. From there I can solder wires to where ever I want to the same connection on the next floor and solder the lights on that floor. This takes up just 1 brick at the back and a 1x2 brick on the inside. Since it is possible to match colors of the wall nothing can be seen on the inside of the wall with this construction. With the exposed 9V plug I can hook up the next modular to the power source.

That's a very good idea. I also looked and cheapest miniature contacts go for 2 Euro's per pair. I also thought of miniature contacts with a feathered pin but it's hard to keep it miniature. I now just use 1.5 mm cooper wire that fits, with insulation, exactly in an open stud. I'm currently testing and will report back if it will work. This method is 80% LEGO, very low cost, it actually looks like an electric coil and colors are easy to match existing wall colors with minimum changes so I hope it will work.

I had thought of a system with technic bricks and contacts between floors but this would mean too many modified LEGO parts and modified houses. But I still like the idea very much, take off a floor and the lights go out and no wires to the next floor. Put the floor on and the lights go on. I've not given up yet but it must be workable without too many wires and modified Lego parts. I'm running the whole system on a 9V train regulator with the right resistor to make the LEDS at their brightest at 9V and dim the lights from there to my liking. So I want to use the old 9V plugs between floors and between houses. This means I can take the floor of and unplug and it is also possible the order of houses or even light 1 house on it's own when taking out of the street. I like the idea of using as much LEGO parts as possible and being flexible in how to display the house in the street. The old 9V plugs are not so tight as the current Powerfunction cables, they separate more easily. I also though of putting two 9V plugs as connection between floors as a solution to my first and favorite 'plugless' idea. The problem with the idea of 2 9V plugs between floors is I need double the amount of plugs. It needs about 34 cables for all modulars and I think too much wall modification is needed. So I think I'll stick to my original idea of one 9V plug for every floor. It's more practical and a LEGO solution without modifying the Modulars too much. Any thoughts are welcome though. Edit: still busy with the 'plugless' idea to connect floors by contacts, haven't given up yet. May be found a solution that takes up a 2x2 brick and actually looks good. Tomorrow I will test more and see if it works and keeps working.

After tiling all floors of all modulars I think it is time to add LEDs to all my modulars. Since kits around there vary from 50 (Aliexpress) to 125 Euro I want to do it myself since buying 13 LED kits times 125 Euro is not an option. So goal is to light up all of these: So I want to do all the wiring and soldering myself. Because it is first in line in my street I started with Market Street. Goal is to use no LED strips and original lamps of the modulars. Where there are no lamps I will add some like below with the 'vegetable hall' of Market Street. Estimated total cost of all 13 modulars: 150 Euro. All materials already bought from the local electronics shop together with some good advice, beats any webshop. How long lighting up the Modulars will take will show this thread from this first post to last, I don't expect it to be a short one. Drilling out all lamp posts for wiring, all got through without damage. First tryout, the 0,04mm wires fit well between the tile grooves and even through the small hole under the stud in the headlight bricks. Where possible I hide wires with 3mm tubes, in Market Street very little modifications were necessary. Pleased with the choice of 3mm warm white LEDS, the wires fit through the stud holes. For Market Street I have added two lamps to light up the 'vegetable hall', the wires run through the 3mm tubes so no wires visible. I'll keep you posted with progress but as said, this is going to be a long WIP.

Almost the whole AFOL community uses Flickr mostly only for their MOC pictures, you must have good reasons why not.

19: 10 10: 6 2: 4 13: 3 15: 2 22: 1 19 simply the best because of so much technical features within an existing design. 10 also very good but that's gonna win anyway so not first on my list :)

Can these be converted to F1 grid girls?