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Ivan_M

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Everything posted by Ivan_M

  1. Ivan_M
    I know you can use gamepad to controll model with sbrick/buwizz, but it is very cumbersome and in some cases doesn't function at all. Even the official software is not bug free (esp. buwizz, sbrick is much further because of its age). Beside that I don't want to give phone to my kids so they can run simple train. And rechargeable BB is quite necessary for it, it eats batteries for breakfast. The controller + BB is around 40$
  2. Ivan_M
    Here is test drive with 2kg load, it is quite fun to drive with such a tight turning radius. The steering arms are perfectly fine, no disconnects at all. I don't suppose superstucture will be over 2-2,5 kg.
  3. Ivan_M
    I know there is a lot of buzz about Chineese clones nowadays, but this is not a clonning brand and the product is very different from BuWizz, only sharing its form factor with it. I have discussed it with @Jim and he gave me permission to make this topic. Please refrain from meaningless post that you hate anything from China and that you wouldn't buy this. Thank you I have stumbled across a very interesting piece of hardware recenty - rechargable battery with four motor outputs AND remote controller - CADA remote control. The most interesting feature is indeed dedicated controller, unlike buwizz/sbrick there is no need for smart phone. I guess video (taken by František Hajdekr) is better than words: I can only say FINALLY, the need for smart phone is what makes buwizz/sbrick unusable for me, I just want plain controller, ready in 1 second and recharchable battery. The biggest question is of course what kind of hardware is inside the BB. The only info is that the battery inside is Li-ion, no info about capacity. I'm also very interested in motor controlling chip. I don't expect it will be comparable in power with BuWizz, I expect it to be better verision of LEGO Li-pol battery. So if there is anyone here who already purchased it and is willing to open it to give us some details, I would appreciate it.
  4. Ivan_M
    First, it is necessary to know which type of Unimog you aim to build, for exaple U 2xx tire size is from 295/60 R22,5 to 425/75 R20, while U 5xx it is 305/70 R22,5 to 495/70 R24. So after you pick desired machine calculate the overal tire diametr = width*profile*2 + disc diameter. For 295/60 R22,5 it means 295*0,6*2 + 22,5*25,4 = 925,5mm. Then divide this number by diamer of lego tire - 925,5/94,3 = 9,8 and that is scale (1:9,8). You can see that the width of tire 295mm in scale 9,8 is 30mm so the lego tires are much wider. So it might be necessary to try different types of tires to get correct diameter and width as well, Unimog can be fitted with huge number of tires so you might end with scale 1:9 to 1:11 easily. Once you figure the scale you can convert the other dimmensions, if the width of U216 is 2820mm so in scale 1:9,8 it is 288mm ie 36 studs.
  5. Ivan_M
    That double end makes it useless unfortunatelly So I think I have position of all function-wise parts in place, I had to use small BB tho: 20180923_131935 That red axle from 16T gear will go to rear to extend rear outridges. After that I have disassembled almost the whole thing and started with better bracing. There is a nice spot at rear for 2 IR receivers, That way I will only need two PF extension cables. I think the overal height is 1 stud higher than what would be possible but it is still fine I think. So now I need to brace it properly and then test all functions before I move to superstucture.
  6. Ivan_M
    Yes, I know it is a week spot, I would kill for 4L perpendicular connector, 9L and 11L rack.. I will rather sacrifice RC drive tho than switch to steering without ackerman and pivot point inside the wheel, I value those two features very much.
  7. Ivan_M
    Thank you. Overal width will be 17 studs, I don't think it is different from cranes using 62mm wheels, is it? Anyway it is given by scale (1:22, overal width 3000mm =>17 studs). Wheels do not touch anything, it is indeed tight fit and pivot point inside the wheel is the key. The outridges are enclosed in something like tunnel made out of panels, I think a picture is better than words: The technic brick slides between two panels, it is tight fit and it cannot move to other direction. There is however no space for any rack because it is enclosed from top so the only way to push it to and fro is using string. I have made it that way to keep the width 2 studs. I think I will place battery behind 5th axle, just before outridges. Maybe it will be necessary to use AAA box
  8. Ivan_M
    Thank you, it will be made out of system bricks (panels and brackets), only the 4th section will be from technic bricks and first section will be from technic panels. Whole boom will be 6 studs wide and 7 studs high. Here you go: 20180921_200823
  9. Ivan_M
    Hmm, I didn't noticed but I have rolled it only few times on table and seemed fine to me. It is true that the steering angle is the same for axle 1&5 and 2&4 while it should differ slightly, but I didn't want to reduce it by gears as it makes offset. And regarding the steering arms - yes they are not locked, I guess I can try to make them different. I have used the same setup on my previous motorized truck and it was running fine, but this will be heavier model so it is worth checking.
  10. Ivan_M
    ..make son, plant a tree, build a lego mobile crane... Here is my new project - 5 axle mobile crane using 62,2mm wheels. I have not build any of the famous cranes like 42009, its ultimate version, Groove, etc., the only crane I have ever build is the fabulous 5-axle crane by @Erik Leppen so I delve into very unfamiliar waters. The reference machine is Liebherr LTM 1250-5.1. So far I have decided to implement these features: - 4 axles steered (servo), single steering mode, various angles, ackerman - 1 axle driven by L/XL motor, fake V6 engine - pneumatic outridges, extended by string (M-motor) - this is the feature I want most, I would like them to lift the whole crane from ground, pneumatics operated by autovalve (M motor) - 4 section boom using system panels, each ~60-70 studs long, extended by string (M or L motor) - custom LA to lift the boom to correct angle - string operated (M or L motor) - slewing via motor - winch via motor - proportions matching with real machine So far I have lad the bottom layer of carrier and tested the autovalve and outridges extension mechanism. I really like how the outridges work, it is technic beam with plate on bottom and tile from side. It fits perfectly into small panels (2 bricks high) - one newer type with support from one side and old type without support from other side. There is enough space for string and shouldn't bend. The only question is where do I put the pneumatic tubbing and if I will retract cylinders by 2nd set of tubbing or use rubber bands. Some kind of winch for the tubbing would be nice, but there is no space. Since the outridges are totally blocking any holes for axles from front to back I had to guide steering axles under it (yellow) and drive axle over it (red). It means that the racks are mounted upside down but it works very well. WIP - 5 axle crane - overal view WIP - 5 axle crane - outridges WIP - 5 axle crane - autovalve WIP - 5 axle crane - bottom view What I'm struggling now is where to put battery for undercarrige. I also have to add drive motor and rear outridges, then make it sturdy, it is now without any bracing.
  11. Ivan_M
    I have checked the available pallet/colors (mainly technic) and it is quite limited - there is no PF at all, pneumatics has one cylinder but no pump , ther is only small linear accurator and not big one... I hoped that I would make some mid sized technic truck but without such parts it would be too simple to catch any attention. Any hope for some cool technic model is also in vanish. Maybe there will be some nice scale (model team) model, but 2000 parts is too low for anything bigger than car. I also hoped that some parts that were available in certain color few years ago would appear, but it is possible to use only parts found in sets from sets currently on shelves. I don't think I will participate on either side (designer/customer).
  12. Ivan_M
    Exactly my thoughts, the copycats are not bought to save on istructions, they are bought because of price of parts packed in one package, very low postage and somewhere far behind are instructions as "free" bonus.
  13. Ivan_M
    I think they make the instruction anew. I can't think of any solution how to prevent this other than offering better value as with any other (digital) content. Take a look at spotify, neflix and other similar services. The piracy of music is MUCH lower than 15 years ago when the only possible legal way was buying CD. So my conclusion is - the key to get rid of lego copycats is to make lego more affordable/available (including old parts/colors), including support for custom sets (so you could buy instruction or instruction+ parts in one shop). Is it ever going to happen? I don't think so.
  14. Ivan_M
    Any particular reason for 1:17 (Arocs) scale? The accurators are not long enough for much smaller scale. I have build EW160e using pneumatics in scale 1:21,5 and pneumatics have better range and even with that some movements were slightly limited. The range of movement in 1:17 using LA's will be half of real machine's range.
  15. Ivan_M
    Hi, sorry, I have moved it to different folder so the link is different: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YTbmNCAvHrxdRvvDsBUGclXQCgENEfl2/view?usp=sharing
  16. Ivan_M
    That makes no sense, most of the technic sets are fine with battery box that has no other purpose - ie without any remote control. Recent technic models are single motor + gearbox or 2 motor (+ gerabox) setup. For that you are fine with dumb BB and powered up receiver. The technic BB will feature one PU port and no other electronics to minimize cost, there will be new remote with two PU connectors and MAYBE another PU connector to chain them. The form factor of PU technic BB will be the same as PF one. Receiver - who knows.
  17. Ivan_M
    I like all kind of models - diecast, plastic, lego etc., I like to study how they work, what purpose they have. The choice to use lego is because it was my toy no. 1 in my youth and that you can easily build and demolish/rebuild anything without the need for tools, leaving you with intact basic parts. Since I do not have any need to display anything it is perfect solution for me. Sometimes I have an urge to buy some diecast model, but in the end I realize it would only gather dust. I also have as much fun as building with real bricks in building digitally, and then creating instructions. It is very satisfactionary for me to see other people building the same model I have build.
  18. Ivan_M
    Anone ever trided something from AVF model shop? I'm particularly interested in this one: https://afv-model.com/52/Maßstab-1%3A16-LIV-und-Wolf-Reifen-Vollreifen Not the best thread, but the size would be very good for trucks in scale 21,5:1 - it would be possible to have duallies on Mack style truck. However the price is monstrous without knowing if it will fit any of the lego rim (and even if it fits it is bloody expensive)
  19. Ivan_M
    Lowloader is also finished: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-17382/Ivan_M/lowloader/
  20. Ivan_M
    Truck is finally published on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-17197/Ivan_M/8x4-heavy-duty-truck-rc/ lowloader is in progress, I think I will finish it before end of the week.
  21. Ivan_M
    Thank you for your kind words. Dragline is published on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-17193/Ivan_M/dragline-excavator/#parts
  22. Ivan_M
    Thank you! I have already submitted it to rebrickable, it is in the process of validating. I hope it will be published soon. Thank you. I mention it in first paragraph, Designer-han's dragline is one of my most favourite crations and reason I have build this one
  23. Ivan_M
    Thank you! Boom is my favourite part as well. I think it is possible to have tracks with various width mechanism, but certainly with some drawbacks like larger middle section or tracks not beeing wide enough in extended mode. Maybe next time :-) Thank you! I think the main difference is that in US roads/streets are wider so there is no need for steered axles. I don't think roundabounts are used in US as well
  24. Ivan_M
    It is difficult to judge from the pictures, maybe it is correct width. Do you work with some kind of real world reference machine or just build for fun without too much hassle?
  25. Ivan_M
    Seem to me a little bit too wide and I don't like that mLA in cabin as well
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