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SNIPE

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by SNIPE

  1. do the universal joints fit through the middle of only the outer bit? (this is the yellow bit in my image but yours will be black from the f1. car)
  2. does anybody have the ball joint part (NOT he center part) of this par: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=techstr02 does anybody have the ball joint part (NOT he center part) of this part: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=x873c01 or does anybody have both of these? i mean have the part only or have it separated from the other bit of it, its the yellow bit i am after in the second link and the similar looking part in the first link(there is only one part in the first link anyway))
  3. if you have bushes you can remove them or use a half bush and use either a lift arm or a half size lift arm, you could use a thinner gear and another thinner gear (even bevel gears work as normal gears (not on an angle)) you could use a part which does the same job but takes a little bit of space off the old part, just try and use your imagination to fix the problem that you created then you will learn and be a better builder if you can give me a LDD file of only the gearbox i think i could make it better.
  4. i mean will the universal joint fit in only the outer bit that has the ball joints on ,i am not using the middle.bit that have the wheel pegs. on. i have thought about using the antenna or similar sized parts before but that wont work as i need them to mesh with the universal joint (which is a cross hole), with the wheel(which is a cross hole) and with the disk brake (which is a cross hole) so i made my own spindle and wishbones but decided that this was would be stronger as there is fewer parts to go wrong and the parts that are for the job are in 1 brick sometimes. i need the universal joint to go through the hole because that means it will take up less space and it was be protected by the spindle and also it will keep is stationary, this also means i can mount the disk brake and wheel closer and that means it will be stronger that using spacers on the axle which effects the wheel balancing. i am using universal joints because this will have 4WD and still have working suspension and steering.
  5. hi, i am working on a better wishbone and spindle assembly and i need to know if these universal joints fit inside of this spindle centre hole: does the universal joint spin round easily? http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=techstr02 <-- spindle http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=62520 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244a or with other spindle: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=x873c01 <-- spindle http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=62520 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244a i don't want to shave or cut or glue any bricks because its not in my nature and because i will be putting up instructions for the whole car so that people can build it.
  6. the worm gears and several gears in a row along the top is a bad idea and you can use a gearbox like on the 844 super car, its small and compact and can have several speeds. (this is in the LDD file) this is not what you asked in the topic so my guess is that your gears are either too small (too little friction therefore little torque or too big (too much friction and torque) so use some gears that have a few more/less teeth or find another way which they might mesh better (IE some holes might be too far or too close which causes the gears to slip when in the meshing process, also if they are too slack you can wear the teeth down and if they are too tight you can snap the gear in half or wherever. if this still isn't the case then you can keep these meshed by having a tight pulley inbetween the two gear axles,this is good because the pulley can be tight when it needs to be and it can also loosen up slightly in the meshing process if the part or placement is changed. another way is have a beam with holes in it in both sides of the gear (with the axle(s) going through BOTH the beams) also make sure your gears are not counter rotating to their natural rotational direction, this means that they can jam or slip away from each other (and not mesh), your motors and the gears outputted from it might not be syncing properly (one shaft or gear+shaft might be spinning slower or faster or in the wrong direction to another shaft or gear+shaft coming from another motor. there are many other problems which in that case you might have but i cannot explain all of them.
  7. the gearbox connects to the rear engine. he center diff connects the two shafts the top diagram is NOT a parts layout its a horsepower transmission diagram the center diff still gets powered by the gearbox the center diff has two output shafts one we send to the front of the car the other to the back the input shaft or two input shafts is for the center diff so it can link the two shafts. at the front of the car the center diff output shaft is the input shaft for the front diff the other output shaft of the center diff is the input shaft for the rear diff one clutch is in-between the two engines and the other is in-between the gearbox and rear engine (the other side of the engine not the end where the other clutch is)] both flat 8 engines are mid mounted
  8. i don't see anything wrong with it the center diff acts as a transfer case which connects the two shafts, the gearbox is the power source you can just switch between 4 wheel and 2 wheel drive (the downwards arrows indicate that the center diff connects to the shaft)
  9. i think i have the shaft connecting and the other parts lay worked out like this: http://pastebin.com/bCDq7RhJ (this is different to the above link because that one shows the layout for the horsepower transfer, this one is just the same transfer but he actual real model layout of the parts.
  10. ah cheers anyway
  11. how do you get the color's such as PC black and metallic blue and metallic red back in the LDD colour pallet, i can still have bricks that are those colours from 4.0 in 4.1 but that's loading a model that has a certain colour which is not in the new pallet. is there a secret thing i need to do in LDD or is it changing the prefs. file in notepad?
  12. i just can't choose, I'd say Silver and Grey would match the Silver rims and some other parts. Here's the screen shots: no shocks or differential yet, just wishbones, spindle, (forgot the disk brakes ,mounting plate and calliopes),rims and tires, steering arms,axle and universal joints,(didn't put the wheel toe in/out (which is top and bottom tilt adjustment beams) because I'm getting the suspension done first,wheel left/right tilt adjustment beams,wheel quick release cap and hub/disk studs,(Tyre support ring is not done yet because I'm still experimenting with that),kingpins and wishbone connection arms,swivel arms and slider bracket for the axle+turning of the steering/wheels,stickers and anything else. note that the rims and tires used are not the ones used in the real model they are replacements as there is none of those parts in LDD. here's what ill be using: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=22969 (need to purchase these) http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32296pb02 (need to purchase these) http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=8386stk01 (BBS stickers from this which i already have) note that the gold axles mean that they are threaded and probably wont be gold in the real model. a new progress post will be coming soon and will show images of the final digital assembly of the front unit.
  13. hi, i have the placement of the parts, and what parts to use and not use and i have a diagram, i just need to lay it out in the car now, so, which layout would work best, any ideas? Here is the diagram which shows that the car will have a high speed and power ratio to the current weight and torque of the car and the diagram also shows that it can switch between 4 and 2 wheel drive: http://pastebin.com/bXUe0XsK
  14. the clutches are so you can change from 4 wheel or 2 wheel drive, which cuts one engine the engines are fake as in pistons etc can somebody help me visualize how it will be placed the car? (what goes where)
  15. actually no these is even better (the diagram shows where the power travels to in the car http://pastebin.com/bXUe0XsK i just need to figure out where to put the parts so far its front diff -> gearbox -> center diff -> rear differential but i need to add the clutches and engines alough it says front and rear im going to try and put them both in the middle but if i cant then one will be on the front one will be in the back.
  16. what about this way: gearbox | | v v front diff <- front engine <- clutch <- center diff -> clutch ->rear engine -> rear diff [The gearbox powers the center diff the center diff has two output shafts one we send to the front of the car the other to the back at the front of the car the center diff output shaft is the input shaft for the front diff the other output shaft of the center diff is the input shaft for the rear diff one clutch is in-between the two engines and the other is in-between the gearbox and rear engine (the other side of the engine not the end where the other clutch is)] the '|' and 'v' is a downwards pointing arrow.
  17. i don't understand this diagram
  18. i made a gun with it as the side gaps let me slide in the ammo
  19. here is some pics of a project i done a few years ago: theres many more images but i cant get them to work.
  20. sorry if it was messy, i had to dash off it should make more sense now.
  21. hi when i tried to use the 1 piece diff case that i do not have in real life in LDD the gears fitted in fine but when i make the next closest thing by using two 4 stud, 3 hole beams in parallel and filling in the side gaps to make it a square the same dimensions as the original case the three gears fitted with the case but the 4th did not so it must have stuck out, when i did this in LDD (using these same multiple pieces for the diff it fitted fine though so do the gears below fit in the case below and rotate fine? and also do these gears work in the case http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4143 here is the case i used first: (one piece) http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32324 the gears i used originally are these: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=6589
  22. about the same wodth as the 8448 or mayse bigger i am using verticsl suspention which works differently, theres no suspention yet thr tyres and wheels look normal enough
  23. i have the front done and it looks great and works fine, its the seem on the back but the two holes that line up are connected to stop the back wheels tilting as if it was steering (like on the front) the parts i am still going to get is mostly everything because of the colors i want, i built an LDD mode and a real mode using any color the correct part happened to be. here is some pictures of it so far, the ball joints and ball cup beams (which are connected to the gear rack and control the turning of the car (a.k.a. wheels)) are not there and a couple of other parts are not there such as the black frictioned kingpins that go through the wishbones, the 62x62 silver rims and the LEGO Michigan tires that go with the rims , the disk brakes and the calipers, the caliper mounts and pins the disk brake spacer plate,the inner Tyre strengtheners, the wheel quick release handle and probably something else, and some of these parts such as the wheels are replaced with something similar) 1 http://i52.tinypic.com/2hwhgkl.jpg 2 http://i56.tinypic.com/idfv2s.jpg 3 http://i54.tinypic.com/2hf2qmx.jpg 4 http://i54.tinypic.com/2db2ano.jpg 5 http://i56.tinypic.com/2v3k8zd.jpg 6 http://i55.tinypic.com/t5mzw0.jpg 7 http://i52.tinypic.com/30uzcc9.jpg 8 http://i55.tinypic.com/20gkx3o.jpg 9 http://i52.tinypic.com/16lya7p.jpg 10 http://i56.tinypic.com/mm65oi.jpg 11 http://i56.tinypic.com/zunu6f.jpg 12 http://i56.tinypic.com/dbljd5.jpg 13 http://i55.tinypic.com/117aesw.jpg 14 http://i55.tinypic.com/213m6mg.jpg 15 http://i52.tinypic.com/qn21ch.jpg last http://i52.tinypic.com/2mfn3av.jpg also the engine is not a flat 10 its two flat 8's (one is front mounted, other is ream mounted) the flat 10 was just to experiment with so i can get the design correct before making a couple of flat 8's coming next: suspension, steering rack and arms, gearbox (i can only show pics if i have an applicable amount of similar parts to make a prototype type with, until i get the exact parts online i will have to show LDD screen shots and prototypes of applicable parts of the supercar.
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