SNIPE

I simply store my parts in individual drawers, before I used to have two big boxes which collected much and dust, when I tipped the lego out to use it it used to set of my allergies. As for models I don't really buy lego models to play with but when I had my lego ferraris assembled they used to get dusty, I used to use a bruck fitting on the end of a hoover, it was ok but was not brilliant, some canned air will work better but takes time, try tipping them upside down. you could take it out into the garden when it is fairly windy and point it to where the wind is blowing. or maybe store the models in a sealed bag or box.

no , you can always get more other parts to use with them, or donate them to me lol

Whatever works best on the model so ill try any ideas related to either. (it is a car)

Hi, if I had a motor that was pumping air into a tank, can I have a way to automatically close off the opening for the inlet and then unblock the outlet when the tank air pressure reaches a certain point. Releasing the outlet will release the air

Hi, today I had another crack at trying to design my super car and found a good way to use the differential I wanted while keeping the diff and housing thin to make room for the bodywork. I managed to get the diff and the housing in a 3L by 5L space, I also noticed that it ran very smooth and even had spin back when you held one of the sides. I also noticed that it could have three gears on this space, two would be on the differential and the third is on the axle. The usual car setup uses front,rear, and center diffs which the gearbox is connected to the centre diff,on this lego model, there is a small gearbox which connects the rest of the axles containing gears to the three gears on the axle which in two of them are for the diff, the secondary axles, like the main axle can counter rotate half way meaning that the gearbox can apply direct torque to either wheel. There is a gearbox on the front diff and rear diff. Normally the power is split between front and rear wheels and is then split again temporerilly. The secondary axles are split by the yellow sleeve not by another diff. I was playing about with it, and for some reason blew on the largest gear and noticed that it span quite easily, I then blew through the side hole which is extremely close to the gear but allows for air to pass over the teeth and spin it, it span quite fast indeed, I was quite surprised and made a high pitched whistling/whining sound. Here are some pictures of the build without the secondary axle: Here it is with the secondary axle, the gear groups have not been worked on much yet as it was late... I did not have an air tank and compressor to blow air through but it still flys. http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9875/file6442x.mp4 Note that this whole thing can be made using the Lego unimog set, LDD file is HERE

Yes, I know but that is an update on them, because of previous talk about them.

Hi, How come Lego did not use a voice coil in the servo motor, the same thing is used to move the read arm on a hard drive they are incredible fast and incredibly accurate.

Sets like the 8448 is one of the easier sets to see the insides of, because it has little bodywork. But all technic sets are never the less, quite easy to look into.

Just look at the LDF file, that way you get a 360 view, where the axles are ( there is two ontop and one underneath and centred is where the suspention boxes go. So in other words: The spring loaded axle hole is linked to the steering/suspention arms which then go to the wheels. hope that helped.

Perhaps an F1 car , they are technical and light and look nice perhaps put the lpe v8 in and mske everything else the right size so if looks realistic. This size of car enables it to have many good things built in.

Hi. I was busy looking at beams and springs and came up with an idea to build a simple (so there is less to go wrong) off road quad bike, so here it is: Features involve: front and back suspention which can be limited or set as 'open', when this is done it can either work with the front or back wheel sticking out of coming inwards, this was done by mounting the wheel beams to return to center steering boxes which allows for +90 and -90 degrees of rotation, the front beams had to be changed to a shorter 2 hole thin lift arm since I had to make room for the steering assembly but keep the bike from being too sloped at one side. This can either be put in some sort of launcher, or have something that compresses the rear spring then lets it flick back up itself, which will paunch it forwards. this is made, (as I like all lego cars) to be able to work and not break all the time. I couldn't think of a way to motorize it. Here is the LXF file Note, When and if I get the suspention boxes, rims and headlight Ill make it myself as a real model.

there is few lego bricks in the model, there is 2x12 base plate stud-less for the floor, two motors, 4 wheels and two bricks with holes in them for the front axle to go to,the rear wheels connect straight to the motor axles. battery pack is held by hand the wire is in the air so it does not get ran over. I think it will go fairly fast, the goal is to see how fast a lego model can go and then try to make it better. I might not use the lego speed computer in that case but that's a issue for later

I could do that, the wheels are meant to be light, have small 'sticky' tires and low ground clearance the floor is perfectly flat., there is no sides or top on the body.

But the wheels are attaching directly onto each motor so there is little weight for it to handle, the wheels and body is lighter than one motor is.

One is a car which has wheels larger than the body which enables it to drive after being flipped over, another is a super light dragster which is made of 14 parts , floor is one brick, two motors connected to the back wheels, two front wheels using one axle and that's it. the battery pack is not on board you just hit accelerate or reverse and it will do it, no wireless transmitters anywhere. It is to see how fast I can make a lego car go

I just need the speed, nothing else I still don't know which one is fastest. This motor is for several projects even ones that don't exist yet I have three NXT motors, a M motor and a 5x4 stud 9V motor which may not work anymore. There are more motors than is shown in the link but you probably knew that.

Which 9v motor

Hi, What is the highest RPM motor that LEGO makes? with the new power functions servo motor count as a possible option?, Since they are brushed DC motors they will have a voltage load limit too.

You can use a worm gear as a gear rack (the pinion gear is the driver) if you make the worm gear the driver you could get a finly controlable steering system. A worm hear adn normal gear rack are also compatibile with each other. There is a lego toothed bar which has many super fine teeth, a winch drum can mesh this, preferably the one with the axle hole in the middle., that could also work but the gear rack is like 16 or 18L). for super fast responce and short space usage, and good turning circle you can attack the steering wheel directly onto the chassis of the steering unit, no gears requires, then put a universal join on so that the steering wheel is not so flat, the steering whell joins to this universal joint, this is not so good for larger models as it will have too much grip and weight which puts strain on the axle and universal joint hoever if you put a plate on the axle with holes either side you can attack the steering arms to these holes which gives better mechanical adtantage and reduces strain.

Easy, you get a roof tile which is sloped and turn it sideways. then keep putting them together so it goes higher and narrower like this and put the windows and stuff in sideways if it looks fine or think of some way to have the windows upright and the roof like in the images, it shouldn't be too hard and building on top of this should be easy too with the /modified bricks/technic bricks' as they are called on brick shelf. I have no idea how to picture what roof shape you want or the dimensions, '1 brick high' does not tell me much

With things like gears sometimes the teeth can go inside of what would be solid surfaces.

Using gears changes the torque unless its a 1;1 ratio where they are the same size.

To change the RPM the 'voltage' or 'power' as it is written in the software is changed. The motor has reduction gears inside of it which always spin with the output shaft of the motor or in this case the axle hole thing on the end. other lego motors don't have or have different reduction gears some motors are much faster the motor in the nxt is quite slow but for a tank gun it is realistic speed wise. The other motors are compatible with the NXT using the motor ports you might just need a converter cable for the different connector it requires.

Ah sorry I'm not into cutting or gluing Lego I think Ill just rescale the outside part, since its SNOT I have to make it big enough so one brick equals so many bricks which are put sideways

But how do I know which one used technic first all it says is 1977 1977 1977 and so on