SNIPE

Ill give it a try thanks.

I think gears would be too rough. There is a lot of load on the yellow rings so If bearings dont work ill have to add more motors. Regards, snipe.

Hi, I did consider it but the problem is my turntable is on its side as shown in the pictures so there is nothing to clamp the two halves together. also the spacing between the two halves are an unconventional amount, which is hard to build around. I tried normal technic 60T turntables but they are not smooth enough.

Hi, Does anybody have any ideas on how to vertically support rings which are made up of 4 curved gear strips, putting gears inside of them would not be smooth enough. I have tried putting different types of pulleys and Lego system 2x2 tile round with centre hole in the channel on each side of the gear strips but the spacing is imperfect and there is no bricks thin and small enough to fill this spacing. and it would also offset a big proportion of the whole model. If not, I could always just use NXT/EV3 motors as they have a strong output hub which is supported by the motor enclosure anyhow, but this will be expensive and noisy. I need something that will allow for the curved gear racks to spin smoothly because they are used as wheels. here are the pictures of what I have tried: https://imgur.com/a/H5Wfq https://imgur.com/CpFwpwO https://imgur.com/2q4308j

Here is the LXF file so far: http://bricksafe.com/files/snipe/42069-mod/42069 mod.lxf Happy modding,

I'm trying to replace the dials for the functions with motors. In LDD I've added 4 wheel steering but I think the rear bottom 5 x 11 frame has to get removed. The two links with ball joints are 1L further back on the rear than the two on the front. I also added a red 4L centre diff. I'll post the lxf shortly if anyone is interested. I don't know how strong it will be yet however. I have not even finished building the real model (unmodded).

edit: wrong thread.

granted, but it is more realistic.

Only problem is you can't see if the axles are centered perfectly but the UV joints or axle connectors will stop anyway. Another trick which is possible is to squeeze 4 inner gears in the differential and they don't fall out. There is a knack to doing it though.

I just spotted a variant of the 2L worm gear, it exists in only one set, the 2017 city Cargo Terminal The part ID is 32905 and can be found here: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32905#T=C&C=11 I was wondering if this variant has any differences to the regular, well known 2L worm gear? Does anybody have any for comparison? Differences, for example more friction in the axle hole, or slightly different teeth. Regards, Snipe

Another copycat: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwt-01LAZ3HM383CK9N8naw

Another thief spotted. All of his videos are stolen from Australian Lego fan channel link: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdWTuOYAjLECawBgl5WbBXQ Yeah.. I'm getting real sick of that, I've NOW had to f**k on making a reply here from what I was doing because of this idiot thief. edit: I finally worked out how to add spoiler tags but just posted the channel link. I have not reported it in case people want to check it. I'm done here.

Nice job here, I've always wanted to do a studless version of a studded set but just never finish them. For examble 4884 but with both doors and roof powered by small Linear actuators and all studless.

I'm busy modding this set by removing the unnessesary gears and linkages and rebuilding the functional parts so they all are as minimal as possible while also adding a motor hooked up to IR recievers. This gives more space for: RC drive RC steering RC wheels retraction RC bomb doors RC middle fans RC rear jet nozzle & wing flaps pivoting. RC fan doors. *maybe* RC rear wing flaps (for steering). Ill use a rechargable battery box, two IR recivers, two large transmitters and 7 pr 8 m motors. x2 for rear wheels drive, wheel retraction. x1 for steering x1 for fan doors x1 for middle fans x1 for rear wing flaps x1 for rear jet nozzle and wing flaps x1 for bomb doors (bombs fall out by gravity) So far I have a working set of rear retractble wheels which also are driven to simulate the jet thrust. So far I made working front retractable wheels with shock absorbers and started building linear actuator based rear wheels but realized after trying to figure out how to then add drive to the rectraction mechanism that I can just have wheel drive and retraction/deployment using a single m motor (since are the smallest) This works by having a motor shaft which drives the driveshaft for the wheels using bevel gears at 45º but the motor shaft also has a friction pin on the other end so that the entire driveshaft can not only be driven but orbited around the motors shaft. I limited this orbiting motion to 45 degrees and this is basically how the wheels retract. The wheels would spin even when folded up but I could just live with it or put something in which the tire touches so that it cannot spin however this means adding two friction pins either end of a pin joiner and adding this to the driveshaft so that is is basically a saftey clutch however this reduces some of the torque going to the folding mechanism which means it can't properly "orbit". Also when there is sufficiant torque, the folding mechanism is actually quite hard to knock shut because of the wheels spinning against the ground and having lots of traction, though they are a little on the fast side for a jet. If there is a saftey clutch added to the driveshaft however it is easier to accidentally or under weight, collapse the wheels. I'm trying to shrink the motor shafts friction mechanism but this is kinda hard using the bevel gear brackets. Ill post images, vids, and digital models soon as this could be hard to visualize. related thread:

i's not just about building every possible type of vehicle it's about making a better version of the same sort of vehicle too, when LEGO releases new parts that is very helpful. The best way to get the most out of Technic is to not to over-engineer it, if something is slightly floppy but holds then 9 times out of 10 the surrounding other stuff will support it anyhow. So with this ideology you can build things as complex as it is currently possible with Lego Technic. I used to think "oh no, were running out of vehicles to have for official sets" but it's not really the case. So anything goes for me personally, as long as the set has plenty of mechanisms that work.

I think this is quite good, and even like the color vomit as long as it is not for bodywork or chassis that shows through the bodywork gaps. Look at how few parts it uses. That's why its good :) remote shifting would be cool too, ill probably make a second modded version of this set after buying it.

It is a good technic set because of the functions and mechanisms it has, which is the most important thing about lego technic. Some people prefer manual functions to electric or electric to rc. The ocean explorer is far worse because it's essentially a creator/city/whatever design but made in technic. It has like two small functions. Where as the 42070 has many functions.

Thanks very much for the review. I kinda feel bad that it scored such a low mark but it isn't the end of the world I guess and people will still buy it myself included. The gear trains are cool too, what motor drives what?

I don't think the 42070 effectively has much backlash for the steering since there is probably a 2L axle with pin on the steering rack 12 tooth gears.and one can easily be added. The friction of the pin means it is harder for backlash to happen.

I counted 33 for the 42068 including worm gears, diff case and mini turn table top. 3+4+2+6+1+7+4+1+3+2 = 33 and 110 for the 42070. 13+2+4+1+13+1+1+3+4+7+3+10+13+21+1+1+12=110

Just noticed most of the m motor is LBG, is this an instructions mistake or is it really that color? I'm amazed that there are two red diffs, that means that it is fully AWD rather than what I thought would be AWD for front and middle axles and 4wd for rear axle. Also happy there are 'pinhole with single axle' in red but none of the new 'pinhole with double axle' which some 1h 2017 sets have.

I was wondering, what part do we need which can be the most useful mechanically, i.e for making advanced connections. I would say perhaps a 32184 but with the hole types inverted, so two pin holes and an axle hole in the middle. or maybe a 27940 with 3 or 4 axles in either '+' or 'T' shape. What do you think?

Well, yes it is the same part, just with a print, however it is generally/typically considered to be a different part. Hope I'm still on topic.

I just realized that the 42069 has no PF or am I mistaken? is it at least designed to be built with the PF addon pack?

The problem was when the LA started clicking it caused vibrations which jolts the arm in which the wheels are connected. Originally it was overly bad but after gearing it down it is not as bad. Ill try a worm gear and white clutch gear or just live with the LA's. A pneumatic solution is probably not great. I in the mean time have managed to make it smaller (8x5X2) when folded up.) excluding the motor and gears. I forgot to mention that there will be shock absorbers for the wheels too. Thanks for the replies. EDIT I tried a few worm gear mechanisms but the small LA is still smaller, and after removing the gears and directly adding a PF M motor it is alright now, I also added the suspension and simplified everything. also the worm gear method can accidentally be knocked and then it retracts unless you add the white clutch gear to the same axle as the worm gear and have the motor drive the clutch gear with an 8 tooth gear the worm gear can then drive an 8 tooth gear also.