SNIPE

Another theif spotted stealing several users videos: He has stole content from brick builder, austrian lego fan, sariel, etc Funny how Ive spotted 3 theifs yet youtubes stupid bots can't spot ANYTHING and they think that's a superiour strategy. I know we should not have to mass report videos before youtube gives a crap but it's all we can do.. So please report this channel and in the meantime, happy building!.

Here you go: Just buy a couple of these brackets and put the nozzles and hoses through the pinholes. Clamp the two bracket halves together using the top two pinholes with a 3L liftarm (for example)

I got it all the way in the pinhole in LDD. Maybe I was not clear enough, I meant can somebody actually test putting it in a pinhole in real life. I will buy some but want to do when I have more different parts to order. I'll post the lxf file soon but cannot see much point to it. regards, snipe

Never mind, I'll just buy some and test it out. in LDD it fits fine. I don't need the connector to click into place like pins do because the connector is sandwitched between two15L liftarms. I don't need to worry about it rotating like pins do because the motors output and axle will prevent that from happening.

Hi, I have always wondered if this part is compatible with lego technic pin holes. I have a MOC situation where I need to have an axle thru-hole which also can be meshed with the pinholes of two beams which are 1L apart. I could use the new technic connector pinhole with 1L axle on opposite sides, placed sideways with a 3L pin connecting the beams but the connectors axles are too short, hence the need for an axle thru-hole. Can the sides of part 24122 be placed inside of pinholes? even if it means having to twist it in due to it being a tight fit. axle joiners or #2 connectors are too long also. Regards, snipe.

Here is an update: If the light saber pieces fit into the pin holes then I cannot see any other problem with this version which means it is basically complete for now unless I can later improve it, the priority now is to work on a totally different section of the model. Here are the images: Here is the LXF file problem A: a non idler hub would tie itself to the XL motor support holes but would not allow the motor output to rotate. problem B: an idler hub would not tie itself to the XL motor support holes but would allow the motor to rotate. Solution: the spokes should be meshed to the EV3 motor output and the black half of the turntable I used a light saber handle piece for this because it has an axle hole instead of a pin hole. The gray half of the turntable is only fixed onto the PF XL motor pinholes. and is not meshed with the PF XL motor output. The turntable keeps everything tied together so axles or pins do not slip out of their holes under weight. I will probably use a 60T turntable soon as I can put the EV3 wires thru the centre but still have room in the centre to replace the light saber handle piece if it does not fix

Small update: I have built half of the above and have decided to use 99009c01 or 18939c01 turntables in between the PF motors as the center hub is not likely to slide out of an EV3 motor where as with PF it does slide out. Since the turntables are almost impossible to separate this will keep everything tied together nicely They don't need to also support the spokes though because that was very difficult due to lots of weird pin hole directions and obstructions. Here is the build anyway: Note in the top pic the PF motors and enclosure is slouching down, even since this is half a model is still was not good enough. Changes: I am now using either a buwizz, or EV3 brick to control both the PF and EV3 motors. I have also added bracing to the PF motor enclosure as the motors would twist white a bit. I am using an NXT motor and slightly different struts, again this is only one half of the model as the rest of my yellow curved gear strips are in the other house. Please note (I should have mentioned before) that the PF motors are only supported by the weight of the buwizz/EV3 brick + some extra weights if needed. It must always point down towards the ground, unless I use the toothed half of the turntable for driving the yellow rings and make some sort of custom upscaled axle out of beams which is connected to the gray half of the turntable. The entire model in the LXF file will be replicated x19 and all connected together into one long tube with an EV3 motor on EACH end of the whole tube.

Next Update topic: HERE

Hi I have decided to abandon using the turntables and bearings and am going for this setup: The master motors (EV3) bear the load of: The PF motors (orange) The PF motor "back to back" mounting enclosures. (orange) The PF motors shared axle (green) The struts (pink) The spokes (red) The spoke center hub (Yellow) The wheel (blue) The battery boxes (white) The inner motors (PF) bear the load of: The spokes (Red) The spoke center hub (yellow) The wheel (blue) The struts (pink) Battery boxes (white) ill be mounted on the PF mounts to add a counter weight, else the PF motor outputs will be stationary and the motor housings will rotate instead The reason is because the EV3 motors do not fit inside of the wheels so I had to use the next closest thing but with enough torque (hopefully) Here is the LXF file, I have color coded each section according to the above lists. Missing parts: PF rechargeable battery box (substituted with PF AAA battery box) PF pole reverser switch (substituted with PF extension cable)

I'll give it a try.

It would certainly help but I'm a bit of a Lego purist. Thanks anyway though.

Ok, it works now. Thanks

Hi, I have considered using turntables but don't think they will be smooth enough under extreme load. Regards, Snipe

Hi, Is there something which will fit in the middle of this wheel so that it makes contact with the red ball bearings? You can move the bearings to different pin holes if needed. Here is the LXF file. it is for a robot and the yellow wheels will be vertical as shown and have heavy load on them, hence the need for bearings and hi-torque, thru-axle ev3 motors

Hi I tried adding C:\Users\kris\AppData\Roaming\LDCad\shadow\offLib\offLibShadow.csl and also enabled shadows, The other settings were fine. Still nothing, so I deleted main.cfg and opened LDCAD again and selected C:\ldraw as the parts library. Still nothing. Here is my log file. Regards, Snipe

Hi, I have part snapping enabled in LDCAD but no parts are longer automatically snapping in place. How to fix this?

Ok, I have decided that using bearings on the curved gear strips is not practical enough. Instead I will have a single turtable using bearings in the center of the spokes (i.e the wheel center hole). just like on a bicycle. Anybody have any ideas, I regular turntable probably wont be enough so need rollers or bearings.

That's correct. It is a robot :) a bigg'un

Oh sorry! I totally forgot to post the images a few days ago! My yellow curved gear strips are in the other house so I'll just have to make do with LDD for now: The disconnected black parts and pins/axles are just for the tire. Currently it is around 180 parts. There will be 19 of these wheels. Here they are: Here is the LXF file Regards, Snipe

Right, Thanks for the ideas, I have tested them and unfortunatley still require too much effort to turn. (the geared half of the turntable is for driving it and the gray half is is fixed onto the support structure. Since the turntable is in the centre. The nxt/ev3 motors have a super strong, multi hole output rather than an XL motor which only has a single 1L axle hole for the output. The nxt/ev3motor housings can easily support the load but they would hit off the ground since the yellow wheels are smaller than the motor. There will be around 19 yellow wheels each consisting of 4 curved gear racks. Back to the drawing board I go!.

What part is that again?

I'll try your last idea soon. The half bevel gears are too small so the yellow ring wobbles.

I will try and put something together as soon as I get home. I like the self induced pivoting of the bevel gears and I think if they are at a 45 degree angle and there is 4 per side it will also reduce the load and friction a bit on the bevel gears. should be able to reroute the wheel spokes on the outer edges of the bevel gears. will need non idler bevel gears for the holes on the wheel to not be obstructed but should be fine.

Hi, this looks good, can it go inside of the rings instead though? it cannot go on the outside. Imagine the rings are wheel hubs basically so the small rubber parts would go on the outside of the rings. Images coming soon.

Hi I unfortunately cannot have anything supporting the yellow rings from the outside as they will have the rubber 2L beams on the outside to mimic a car tire. I think I will just use motors rather than bearings but the problem is that the NXT/Ev3 motors are too long and stick out beyond the yellow rings. So I'm back to square one again now I'll put some more images of the idea when I get home.