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AndyCW

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by AndyCW

  1. Interesting usage of the claw pieces. The size and compact nature is great. This is something I struggle with. v/r Andy
  2. That's a damn shame about the leaf springs. I was looking forward to future updates. Racing mustangs are frequently upgraded to a truck arms back in the day. It may be more gratifying to change course than give up. Instead of a stock 68 Stang, go to a 68 racing stang. It could end up like a Trans Am racer. v/r Andy
  3. Bodywork looks awesome. The track width looks a bit wide, but that may be a personal preference. It really depends on where it will be going. Tight spaces really slowly, then narrow is better. Wide open spaces a high rates of speed, then wider may be better. v/r Andrew
  4. Thanks for explaining what the element on the back of the motor was. I was wrong. v/r Andy
  5. The battery box can provide up to one amp. V2 RX can provide up to1.5 amps per channel. Removing overload on battery not a big deal. Building a relay to bypass rx not a big deal. Getting full power out of your motors priceless! I don't know the answer to your question about removing the capacitor. v/r Andy
  6. Both, but battery first. According to your data 5292 stalls at 3.2 amps V2 has limit of 1.5 amps per channel (cuts 5292 power in half) Battery has limit of 1 amp (cuts 5292 power by 70%) The battery is the bigger restriction, but V2 is also a restrictor Am wrong on this? v/r Andy
  7. Even one output of the V2 receiver severely hobbles the 5292 motor to roughly one third power, but that is still a huge amount. For some reason I am having trouble providing links. It is really aggravating. The part number for the cable you need is 60656. It is available on bricklink.com for as low as $6 USD. Just search parts, electric wires, it is on first page. v/r Andy
  8. Looks great. Good luck on the competition. v/r Andy
  9. Unique steering solution and the pendular suspension is nice too. v/r Andy
  10. Wow! I have never seen a Lego contraption like this before. Is the concept copyrighted by someone? This may be a serious impediment to success. v/r Andy
  11. I like it. It would be nice to seen the undercarriage. I also think it looks the best out of everything of yours I have seen here. v/r Andy
  12. Yes, check out the link in my signature. You need adaptor cable that is available at Lego. v/r Andy
  13. I have got to get myself the RC controller and box. Using 5292 motors with IR is getting tiring. It takes a lot of running to keep up. v/r Andy
  14. You may want to make your driveshaft telescoping to account for the angle difference between it and your links. In the most recent picture, as the suspension compresses the driveshaft becomes "longer" this may cause it to bind. It may not do this significantly, if the suspension travel is small. There are almost always compromises when doing this stuff. It boils down to what the builder can tolerate and we are all different in this regard. I make lousy bodywork and often settle for less than ideal in this regard. Having seen your other work, this truck will end up looking great. v/r Andy
  15. As to the comment about the angle of the links. In the rear, this is not much of an issue. The axle travels rearwards as the suspension compresses or when it hits an obstacle. This helps the suspension function. It translates the force of the impact into the suspension in such a manner that the suspension moves. In the front, this I an issue. The axle travels forward as the suspension compresses. This feature causes the front suspension to resist compression when it encounters an obstacle. This is the opposite of what is desired. If you care to fix this, it can be done by relocating the link mounting points on either chassis or the axle. Moving the points on the axle will have the benefit of not reducing your ground clearance and break over angle. Otherwise love it. Looks capable and robust. v/r Andy
  16. I learned the same thing when I built my four speed crawler. Reduce the torque input (= increase rpm) and gear down after the transmission. Are you going to use a single battery and RX to power the 2 XL motors? This will limit their power output. v/r Andrew
  17. To be the best of my knowledge, equal length parallel 4 links are actually fairly rare in production vehicles. They do not transfer the torque to the chassis very well. This setup I great for massive travel, but not for traction or articulation. Air bagged pickup trucks use these layouts to get the door sills or frame on the ground, but they never really get the tires to hook up. Depending on the torque applied to the axle and the weight of the finished vehicle, you may need to separate the planes between the upper and lower links. What link arrangement does your real Pajero use? v/r Andy
  18. The amount of triangulation in the links also contributes to the centering effect the linkage has on the axle. With a four link setup, the point of articulation is between the upper and lower links. Increasing the distance between the upper and lower links will increase the axles resistance to caster and pinion angle changes with application of torque. v/r Andy
  19. Are the shackles for your leaf springs in the front? Is this the way the Mustang is in reality? Or a I misreading the pictures? Every leaf sprung vehicle I have ever seen has the shackle in the rear. v/r Andy
  20. Lose one of the 5292 motors in your diagram and you will be in business. The output power will be greater too. This way you don't have the inefficiencies of two motors contributing to the system. Even with a single motor, a single battery pack, and a single receiver the motor will be operating at less than full potential. The m motor relay mentioned above will bypass the receiver, but until the battery pack's current limiter is disabled the motor will still underperform. v/r Andy
  21. You could also use the 6.5 arm on the bottom and the 6 on the top. This would give both negative camber and a camber curve. Offset the top arm aft of the bottom arm and you would also get caster. v/r Andy
  22. This looks like a great first time build. Hell, your body work looks better than any of mine and I have been doing this for a couple of years. It is a good thing you used the old motors. A lot of that structure wouldn't hold up to the new motors power. v/r Andy
  23. In the last couple of years, it has taught me about suspension geometry. In general, It has made me mechanically minded. I am not shy to jump it mechanical projects, such as home improvement, hot rodding, or model planes. Give me some tools and some instructions a let me at it. v/r Andy
  24. I guess I misunderstood his statement then. v/r Andy
  25. That was a fast build. Did you try it with only one battery and RX? The power demands of those motors may be within the capacity of a single rx and battery. The reduced weight may help too. v/r Andy
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