Alex Ilea

Looks really cool! It could use 2 buggy motors, buwizz and a beach side driving video.

Very nice presentation of the builds! It was interesting to see all the WIP versions in LDD, some of them overlap with my own ideas for certain challenges. It was a pleasure having you here in Romania, we had lots of fun, and let's hope we meet again in the near future :)

Nice job, it looks very accurate! The best MOC for this car.

Superb models. Thank you for visiting us!

Thanks Lipko! I expected people to comment on the orange Clio, but I see that the others are more popular.

Thanks for the interest! Yes, it has been built by Zerobricks, and he will post a topic with his models in th next few days.

It is! It is super fun, especially with international guests. And yes, in my experience 4WD is very good for drifting, but it really depends on the surface. On my wooden floor my hoonicorn did really well, but on the tiles it was a mess to maneuver it. Thanks for the compliments! The 5th and 6th link I consider are A arms that hold the shock absorbers. The other 4 are the diagonal ones. No steering link for this one, just cv joints from the motor to the steering system. We try to keep the models as accessible as possible, because we want new participants (we are 6 recurring and 2-3 on and off guys). We also want to make some non motorized challenges (pullbacks) for future contests, because there are some people who would like to participate but don't want to spend money on electronics. We are definitely excited if you would join us, after all, we are "neighbors" :) We were in talks with some Hungarian lego builders that we met at Buwizz camp, but in the end they didn't come. I mean, we don't "market" contests on Eurobricks, it wouldn't be nice I think. We are still debating on whether to make a winter contest or not (we usually do) but we need to come up with some cool challege ideas. I suggest that you join our forum (it's in Romanian) and see the "technic contest" section. There we post the next contest. https://forum.rolug.ro/viewforum.php?f=59&sid=f0b1f798184fb5506edac60ecd32f4e3

Hi everyone, Today I want to present you my models for the Romanian LEGO competition, called RTXP, that took place last Saturday, 30/09/2023. RTXP= RoLUG Technic Xperience is a yearly LEGO Technic contest that we organize in Romania, where we bring LEGO enthusiasts together and compete against each other for the fun factor and for new experiences. We had the pleasure to have @Zerobricks as a participant this time, therefore the competition was fierce! 4 Challenges for this contest: Drift Cars, Mini Trial Truck, Mini Racers and Utility Terrain Vehicles (UTV). I will give a brief description about what each challenge is all about, then show each of my models with a summary of the features and powertrain. FYI, we give points for the finishing of the race, and extra features (opening doors, lights, fake engine, working steering wheel, etc..). Then at the end we add up the total points for each person and create a final standing. ***If one person builds multiple models for one challenge, only the best one counts, and the other gets 0 points for the final score. Drift Cars Rules: Sports car looks, most be a proper body, max tire size 43-56mm (tape allowed for easier drifts), any motorization combination is allowed (BuWizz products also) My model: Hoonicorn Features: 4WD, working steering, suspension, V6 fake engine, opening trunk, detachable bodywork, 2 BW 3.0, 2 BW motors and 1 PU L motor. It drifted insanely good on my wooden floor at home, but less so on the tiles at the location. This challenge was super messy with lots of crashes since nobody knew how to drift properly. We have seen that most of the people chose RWD. Mini Trial Truck Rules: 4 wheeled off-road vehicle, full bodywork, tire size 56mm (tractor style is preferred), max 1 motor for drive (forbidden BW motor or buggy motor) My model: Redux Features: Opening doors, detachable bodywork, fake L3 engine, working steering wheel, 1PF L for drive, 1PU L for steering and 1 BW 3.0 For this one I tried to make an accurate multilink suspension and I must say it turned out just awesome! 6 links per axle to be exact. The main drawback was the steering which had tons of play... Xellow My second model for the mini trial race. This one is built more traditionally, with no features, and it just performed really badly. Not very proud of it, but of course, it is my fault for that. Features: 1 XL PF for drive, servomotor for steering and BW 2.0 for control. Mini Racers Rules: Sports car in the scale of the mustang/ Bugatti bolide, proper bodywork, tire size 42-44mm, max 2 PF/PU motors for drive, any control unit permitted. My model: Renault Clio RS Features: Opening hood, working 2 cylinder engine(no room for the V6), active steering wheel (with rubber band), 2PF L for drive, 1PU L for steering and 1 BW 3.0 This was the most fun challenge I would say. All of the cars drove well, everyone had good driving skills, but the tiled floor made some cars drift while taking some tight turns. I am actually super surprised how well my MOC performed, considering the weight of the complex bodywork. Utility Terrain Vehicle Rules: UTV style vehicle, 4x4 with 2 or 4 seats, proper bodywork, tire size 75-82 mm, only PF/PU motorization allowed. My model: Maverick Features: Working steering wheel, fake engine, 2PU L for drive, 1PU L for steering, PU hub for control with powered up app. Now thinking about it, we should have maybe allowed some stronger motorization options, since the cars had ok speed but not spectacular. All of the cars had suspension and we could see how some people chose differentials for better cornering, and some direct drive for a balanced speed/torque combo. The mandatory group photo: Final scoring (loc=place) Full gallery with all of the models here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/ILEAALEX/rtxp-2023 Highlights video: Thank you!

Cute small build!

In my opinion, the red shows the shape of the car better than the grey they used (especially the front). It would be cool if someone made a sticker livery like the real car's special stary paintjob. Example

It looks so much better in red!

This solution with the pullback motor is interesting to say the least, and I can see how it mimics the real car system. But I think it can be done way easier by having one L motor for 1 side of the diff and one XL for the other side (boost side). Concept it very simple, it doesn't need any "buildup" and, the XL motor, due to the higher internal gearing, wouldn't spin out when the main L is working. Even better, have one XL as the main drive and a buggy motor for boost (and a boost gauge in the cabin when the buggy is engaged would be cool). This double motor, double speed is a neat concept, especially for these hybrid systems. Reference (check 1:22):

This is a cool build, well done.

But if an entry is not awesome it shouldn't win. It doesn't matter if you make a superbly engineered build, if it is ugly it shouldn't win. Same for the opposite. And yes, double voting is the way to go, but again, keep jt simple.

I am not invested in this "how to vote" conversation, but why not keep it simple? For public voting, give each build a score out of 100, any way you like. You are more into aestetics, fine. More into functions, fine. Entry 1: 90/100, entry 2: 55/100 and so on... Obviously, if someone votes 100 for 1 build and 0 for the rest that shouldn't count.

Thank you! Thanks! Sure I can, here is my process: You have to first see if the model is feaseable to build, this meaning if you have enough parts in order to build it to a decent standard. Looks and functions matter. So with only the parts from the Ford GT, I wouldn't attempt to make a lamborghini sian or something complicated like that, because in my mind the inventory is not generous enough in order to make the lambo look super good. It would just turn out ugly and no one would like it. Then, of course you start building. I usually print a blueprint of the real car, in the scale of which tire size that I use. When building, I start at the same time the bodywork and the chassis. I don't want to not have the necessary parts for either, so if one needs a small sacrifice in order to improove another section this is the easiest time to do it. Mind you, I only build with real life bricks and only after the model is complete I build it digitally. You know that, what is on a screen sometimes doesn't work in real life... So I make this back and forth between the two, and I make sure to capture all the essential details as much as possible, while also constantly checking the parts that remain. I also "reserve" parts in advance for future steps that I know I have to do. Of course, there are times when I need two parts of one type and I don't have them and I make one side better than the other, but the secret is to not make it very noticeable. There are a couple of these on the Supra and they don't really bother anyone. I hope my answer is what you were looking for. If you have any more questions please ask them. Thanks, Alex

Hahaha, thank you! I actually had a lot of people say that exact same thing.

This is quite interesting. I could see a good aplication in fast lego vehicles, but more as a concept suspension. Is it more efficient than the standard we do?

Thank you J! I wasn't such a big fan of dark blue before, but I started to really like it. It is a perfect color to show body lines, as it is not as dark as black, or as bright as white. Really liking it! Wow, thanks! Yes I did try my best to hide all the empty spots. Asteptam pozele ;) Appreciate it! I already started working on the V2. The plan is to make a new chassis, with as many features and details as possible and then recolor it so it uses as many parts from the current chassis. In order to minimize the extra parts required.

A superb build from Bruno, I really like how professional the chassis and the doors are, really impressive stuff. I won't sugar coat it, I expected a bit more from the front end. I mean, the headlights could have used some more bricks to shape them in a more authentic fashion, but I guess they are stronger that way.

Wow I didn't expect so many comments and a frontpage, thank you everyone! I am already thinking of ideas for the V2 version, @langko, this model really deserves an upgrade ;) @Jundis Ask and you shall receive: Of course it is not possible to built it without painting some parts, unfortunately... Thank you!

Hi everyone, First of all, I really appreciate that you are reading this topic, I know everyone has busy lives and limited spare time. Now let's get to the model shall we. I am presenting you my latest build, a B model for the Ford GT 42154, the Toyota Supra MK4. I will say with 100% confidence that this is my best B model yet, I just love how it turned out. Of course, the JDM king, the Toyota Supra, especially the MK4 is a super popular car within the space of Japanese sports cars and, myself, being a fan of this car, it was a no brainer to try to recrate it in technic. I had the Ford GT, designed by @grohl, on my shelf for the 3 months and I just couldn't un see those transparent headlight pieces being a great fit for the Supra headlights. So I gave it a try, I printed the MK4 blueprint and started working on it as I do with any scale car I do. I thought that with such a limited inventory (as is the usual case with B models) I might not be able to recrate it to the level that I expect of myself. I really wanted to fit the L6 cylinder engine but it looked way off, so a L4 had to suffice. It just looked more in proportion. My model is actually 2 studs wider than what it should have been (due to the long CV joints), so it is as wide as the Ford. I guess a widebody Supra doesn't hurt anyone ;) I set myself to build the whole car on the outside and build the interior last (which was the best option). In the end, I only had parts for one seat and a simple dash and basic details. Considering that I used close to 90% of the original, I believe the result is quite satisfactory. The rear is an iconic part, especially the wing spoiler, which, funny enough, is what I built first, in order to "reserve" the parts for it. For me, it would break the car if it were missing. Other details worth mentioning are the tail lights, which turned out surprisingly well, and the singular exhaust pipe on the left side. By the time I got to the roof I got really worried, I had so few black parts left, but I managed to pull some strings and make it happen. Of course, it has the typical supercar features: suspension, opening doors and hood, and HOG steering below the spoiler. I want to thank you again for reading this, really appreciate it! This model is my pride and joy right now, and it will stay on my shelf as a display piece that I continuously look at to inspire myself for other builds. Here is the dramatic edit I did for it over at YouTube: Do you guys like this type of edit, or is it just too much and would like a more "normal" presentation? Let me know. Also the mandatory building instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-156818/Alex Ilea/toyota-supra-mk4-42154-b-model/#comments All the photos of it over at bricksafe: https://bricksafe.com/pages/ILEAALEX/toyota-supra-mk4-42154-b-model-full-gallery I have thought, when seeing the feedback online for this model, of making a V2 of it, kind of like a "Pimped Up Supra", same outside shell but add a custom inline 6, detail the engine, add 2nd seat, detail interior, add a rear diffuser, and a sequential gearbox. Something to think about... Thank you guys, have a nice day!

Useless to us, but useful for LEGO as they save material and make more money :)

Looks good!

It looks quite accurate. I would like to see the diagonal metal beams (last photo with the real thing) that are on the side of the car. It could be done with 6L LBG beams quite nicely as they make a perfect triangle. Keep it up fratello ;)