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Didumos69
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Everything posted by Didumos69
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I would be interested, especially in the chassis. Not to build, but as a source of inspiration. -
Just a quick remindet that my ultimately playable version will be on display during the Bouwen met LEGO® stenen event from august 9 until august 11 (10am until 5pm) in Boekelo, The Netherlands. I won't be there myself, but my brother will be. He is one of the organizers of the event.
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Just to be clear about my position: I'm not disappointed about my 'caricature'-entry not making it to the semi-finals, I didn't expect that to happen although I did have some hope. I just share some critical thoughts with others.
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Great summarizing conclusion.
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Many notes on the lack of originality in the list of semi-finalists and I think I have to agree with them. If the contest would have been about building a replica of an existing model, the lack of originality would have been perfectly normal. But the contest was as open as could possibly be: build your dream Porsche. I had expected to see a mix of original models in all kinds of shapes and sizes as semi-finalists. All breathing the Porsche signature - which is something different from 'looking like an existing Porsche' or 'coming most close to the original functions'.
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I entered with my ultimately playable 42056 based on the idea that the look of a Porsche is timeless and what's inside evolves continuously. But that entry was disqualified because it was based on a standard set. After that disqualification I got the idea of entering with a very small scale model.
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I think there's nothing wrong with some criticism, especially when it's about the contest in general. This is a discussion forum after all. It's up to the judges and LEGO what to do with it. Jim already mentioned that he suggested to have separate categories for LDD and real models next time. A good suggestion I think and it shows there is some room for improvement.
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Congrats to anyone that made it to the semi-final! Not because my entry was a LDD-only entry - it was a bit of a caricature anyway - but I think it's a bit strange to have a contest open for both LDD-models and real models and select only real models, because they are preferred over virtual models, without informing contestants about this in advance. Reviewing functions of an LDD-model is maybe more difficult, but is still doable. Besides that, there are many real MOCs that claim functions that turn out to be heavily flawed when you get your hands on the actual model.
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If If I recall correctly this part is actually being reused. It was originally used at the side of the dnr-gearbox but is not needed in the corrected version. If I'm not mistaken you need only one such piece for the errata, only in step 61a.
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Apart from the drawbacks you mention yourself this looks quite interesting. I'm very curious how this will fit the body. The inclined kingpin will cause the wheels to take more space when rotating around the steering axis, which may cause the wheels to collide with the body in turns.
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I think the Porsche 906 50 years Anniversary edition will win, but my personal favourite is the 550 Spyder by Victor Imaginator.
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Reasoning from the 3D-model in my head: -The shifting block should indeed have the same orientation as the same orange piece at the left side of the gearbox. -The right PDK-paddle is for shifting up (1-2-3-4) and the left paddle for shifting down (4-3-2-1). When shifting up, the PDK-output-axle rotates clockwise when looking at it from the driver's position. EDIT: Corrected the above text. Should be clockwise. Are you sure you reassembled the gearbox correctly? It's easy to switch some gears mistakenly.
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Thanks for your feedback! I would think your problem with the gearless clutch should not occur. You probably have too much friction in the gearbox and the engine. You have to make sure all individual axles have some play and rotate with almost zero friction and gears do not rub against liftarms. Especially the red clutch gears need to have some play. It should sound like this:
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Which paddle is for shifting up and which for shifting down is not affected by the errata, so I don.t know what could be wrong in your case. I don't have the model at hand. The block should be between 1st and 4th gear. If not, the extra flap inside the H-frame is not placed correctly.
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Very original idea and good looking too!
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I deliberately left out the reverse gear shifting block because it takes up a lot of space and still allows to shift from 4th gear to neutral and back. Besides that it weakens the way the gear stick is mounted. I think it's a work arround rather than a fix. I think the better way to fix the reverse gear shifting would be to actually bypass the gearbox in reverse. But that would be an advanced MOD and as it adds to realism it should IMO also make sure the gearbox is not engaged when in neutral. That would require the order to be engine->D+N+R->gearbox. Right now it is engine->gearbox->D+N+R.
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It's just another good marketing tactics that is meant to add to the feeling of having bought a model that comes very close to the real thing. They simply chose the level of granularity that gave a number close to the number of parts included in the set. If the set had consisted of 3000 parts they would have chosen a slightly different level of granularity to come close to that number. At the finest level a car consists of many more parts: http://www.toyota.co.jp/en/kids/faq/d/01/04/
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Color Coding
Didumos69 replied to Richard Dower's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I would love to see a community-driven color-coding that makes it more easy to 'read' the functional part of a design or a model. A single preferred color for functional modules, such as gearbox or engine, a single preferred color for rigid base structure elements, such as chassis etc. -
Great job with the functional peddles! Suspension also looks great although I prefer to see active camber with close to zero camber when the vehicle is not moving. No, caster angle can be observed when looking from the side. Camber - as correctly mentioned here - can be observed when looking from the front.
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Awesome looking model! One of the best entries in my opinion. Well done!
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The 4th-to-1st gear lock is located inside the H-frame on the left side. The 90 degree limiter is on the right side. It consists of a 2L (o+)-liftarm attached to the shifting axle and a 4x2L liftarm on top of the H-frame. This required less parts as the 4x2L liftarm also serves as extra support for the axle between diff and DNR-gearbox.
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[PORSCHE] Porsche ZERO
Didumos69 replied to zux's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Very original! You should profile it as human powered vehicle. People can reach speeds over 85mph (116kmh) with them: http://www.whpva.org/competition.html -
Thanks! Would love to see someone build it!
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What I mean is in Drive - so not in Reverse - you can shift to neutral and back while in 4th gear. That should also not be possible. This is why I wasn't happy about the earlier suggested solutions. The best approach would probably be to completely bypass the gearbox in reverse, but that would require the order to be engine -> d+n+r -> gearbox instead of engine -> gearbox -> d+n+r.
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Very interesting. If I understand correctly this still allows for shifting from 4th gear to neutral and back? Or did you fix that too? The numbers in the overview sheet sure look promising! I'm really curious what you're going to come up with.