Didumos69

Thanks for the photo. Is there enough angle difference between the left and right wheel? I can't tell much difference from the photo, but a small difference will probably be sufficient. You're right, my gear rack stabilizer collides with the body. I will have to study a little further. EDIT: I might be able to move it underneath the gear rack with one stud space between the gear rack and the stabilizer.

This is a very nice solution DayWalker! Very inspiring too. One question: Could you post a picture showing the wheel in max steering position, so we can see the different angles? Different from many other advanced steering characteristics, Ackermann steering is very noticeable in a playable model like this, you can feel it. Simply put: It adds to playability. So I will have a go at this too for my ultimately playable version. I have to mary it with my rear HoG steering though. I would also slightly improve the way the balljoint is attached to the wheel hub. I checked this with the real model and it's not more limiting than other parts. Btw, this is not meant to compete with your solution. I'm just trying to translate it to my playable version: And here are a few shots of what I have in mind to mary this idea with rear HoG steering. I replace the removed 7L liftarms with 9L liftarms a little further to the back. I reused the gear rack and did some plumbing to move the ball joint one stud inwards. I also added a gear rack stabilizer..

This is how frictionless it can get. In first gear, engine geared up by 300%. Overall ratio of 5:1.

I decided I want to have the rear HoGs to be positioned at the front holes in the panel above the diff instead of the rear holes. In that location they are better reachable through the rear window: This made the rear HoGs a little more straight-forward. The 20t bevel gears at the front of the rear suspension are already locked-up by another panel that is part of Box 2. Therefore there is no need anymore for 6 half bushes and all the plumbing at the backside of the liftarms above the diff to secure the gears. The 20t bevel gears are now placed on 6L axles that run through both 13L liftarms. Between the 13L liftarms these axles are kept in place with two bushes each. Another advantage is that the HoG shifting now rotates in the same direction as the dashboard gear indicator. I also had to change the routing of the rear HoG steering, because the HoG steering axle now also rotates in the opposite direction. But this wasn't that hard. I replaced the CV-joint in the steering axle with a U-joint so I could add a 16t gear between the joint and the gear above the gear rack. A CV-joint is of course better, but the angle is so small that the sine-effect of the U-joint won't be very strong.

I almost forgot to mention that my last refactorings made the chassis even more sturdy:

And here is the LXF-file showing the rear HoG steering, dash gear indicator and stabilized gear rack modifications:

Here's a cutaway of the complete drive train (red), steer train (yellow) and shift train (green):

When the shifter runs into 4th-to-1st gear block: Depends on how the red change-over-catches have been placed, or replaced: Out-of-the-box, the change-over-catches won't allow slipping, so you can't pull the trigger. When you turn around the change-over-catches - as suggested by Attika - the knob gear will eventually slip along the change-over-catches when you pull the paddles hard. Finally, when you replace the change-over-catches with (+0)-liftarms - as I did in my playable versions - the knob gears will slip even more easily. I could do with less resistance coming from the catch, because I have far less friction in the shifting train than the out-of-the-box version. Main reason for this is that I replaced the 2 friction-generating 8t gears with a 90-degree-limiter. When you drive the gear shifting axle from outside the paddle shifter unit: This will require some torque to overcome the friction-generating 8t gears in the out-of-the-box situation, but the shifter unit can handle the rotating axle. Actually, nothing hapens inside the unit, apart from the vertically placed axle and the side knob gears rotating. The chosen change-over-catches configuration does not influence this (EDIT: I didn't try this for the out-of-the-box situation. It might be that in that case the change-over-catches block one of the side knob gears, depending on the rotation direction). It's because of this free rotation that I have been able to add HoG shifting to my playable version. Another prerequisite for that is the replacement of the friction-generating 8t gears with a 90-degree-limiter. This video shows the HoG-shifting - and dashboard shifting - and while these are used the vertically placed axle inside the paddle shifter unit rotates along, without causing any problems. Also after rotating the axle from outside the unit, the unit will continue to operate as before when it is used again.

Thanks. To a certain extend it is a new car, but the nice thing is, the body - Box 2 etc. - fits out-of-the-box . This is also how I'm going to present this as a Porsche dream contest entry: The looks are pretty constant over time, but what's inside evolves continuously .

I just posted a photo report about my dashboard gear indicator, rear HoG steering and stabilized gear rack in my ultimately playable thread. Btw, I have a better looking indicator in mind, the one used here is just a placeholder. I just realized I could easily route my approach to the DayWalker gear indicator, but coming from the dashboard side instead of from the gearbox side. A marriage with the HoG shifting might be possible after all .

Time to report on my last modifications to Box 1. I set myself a deadline for this: July 1st, 2016. The last modifications I made are: Rear HoG steering, a dash gear indicator and a stabilized gear rack. This time I made photo's while refactoring, so it will be a photo sequence kind of report. Again it's important to know that this MOD is built on top of the Sturdy without body MOD. I also assume you already know about the rear HoGs themselves. EDIT (2016/07/01): I changed the position of the rear HoGs which also resulted in a slightly different routing of the rear HoG steering. See this post. About the dash gear indicator: The original gear shifting mechanism completley relies on knob gears. This is good because they won't slip. And the actual change-over-catch-mechanism can't do without them. However, for a few weeks already I'm using a paddle-shifter-unit that operates with bevel gears instead of knob gears: I replaced the two knob gears at the bottom side of the unit with 2 12t bevel gears, aligned wit a 45 degree jumb, just like the knob gears had. And guess what, over a period of two weeks I didn't have any problem with slipping gears whatsoever. The 7x5-frame enclosing the gears prevents them from slipping. I even tried to force them to slip, but they simply didn't. Based on this knowledge I reconfigured the lower section of the paddle-shifter-unit once again. This time to add a second output axle that drives the gear indicator. This output axle points towards the center of the car. However, on that side of the 7x5-frame a 13L liftarms was blocking the way. This liftarm is quite essential for the whole chassis structure, so I had to find a substitute for this liftarm. I solved this by attaching a liftarm to the inside of the black console-panels and by securing these panels better. The photo sequence will show how I did this. I started off with dismantling the whole section between the D+N+R-console and the front suspension module. This includes the front HoG and the D+N+R-casing. I removed the paddle-shifter-unit as one piece. Then I replaced the axle sticking out of the front side of the D+N+R-console and I modified the way it is supported (with 2 5x3 levers): Next step is to add a 3x3 liftarm to the front and a 5L liftarm to support the black console-panel to the right side of the D+N+R-console: Then I changed the way the toggle joint and the CV-joint are supported, so I could add another 3L pin (with a 1L liftarm) to better secure the black console-panel later on: Now I rearranged the gearing at the bottom of the paddle-shifter-unit, added the double snap and gears for the base of the gear indicator and put the unit into place. There is another - not visible - 12t bevel gear meshing with the thin 12t bevel gear inside the shifter-unit. Make sure all gears make perfect 45 degree jumbs, just like knob gears would: I added liftarms to the inside of the console-panels and some parts to hold the double snap. These structures also connect to the front suspension module (make sure all connects perfeclty, as you can see I didn't and this gave me some headaches afterwards ): Stabilize the whole front structure with two vertically placed 4x2 liftarms: Now before we continue, I assume this part of the rear HoG steering to be present already, except for the CV-joint. Note that the 4x2 liftarm carrying a pin with pinhole also serves as 4th-to-1st gear block: Next step is to insert part of the rear HoG steering axle and a 5L liftarm to support it (you can still see the pin that I didn't connect properly ): Now we can reconstruct the D+N+R-console and the dasboard. The 12L axle used for steering needed to be divided into a 4L axle and a 8L axle, so there is space for the gear indicator axle to pass through: And now the gear indicator can be added (sorry, don't have an image of the result). The 3x3 liftarm can be replaced with a pin with pin hole integrated in the dashboard that is part of the body.: And we finish off with the gearing near the gear rack and the gear rack stabilizer: One more thing: To make the whole shifting train operate smoothly, make sure all axles rotate without friction. Any feedback is much appreciated.

Thanks! It would indeed be nice to have a MOD compatibility table. However, some MODs - for instance the 4th-to-1st-gear-block - can be changed very easily to fit various other MODs so I'm affraid it will be a lot of work to maintain. I already have that problem for the 'minimal' and 'playable' versions that I'm maintaining in my ultimately playable thread. I wouldn't want to be responsible for the complete overview as the number and diversity of MODs will only grow.

Great! Nice and compact solution. My dash gear indicator is a little more complex. I will post about the details in my ultimately playable thread soon. Like I said, I would have adopted this if it wouldn't clash with my HoG shifting. It's mainly because I need to secure this axle very solidly, or the gears will slip (just to clarify):

All my 'advanced' MODs fit Box 2., in LDD that is. Checked it many times already, but I'm even more confident now.

I didn't take the time yet to explain about the HoG shifting. After replacing the 8t friction gears with a 90 degree indexer, the gear selecter axle (with the orange paddles) operates fairly leightweight. That improvement paved the road for a HoG driving the gear selecter axle. Also the paddle-shifter-unit can deal with the gear selecter being operated from outside the unit. Furthermore it's important to know that this MOD is built on top of the Sturdy without body MOD. I also assume you already know about the rear HoGs themselves, but how does one of them function as gear selecter? HoG shifting operates via the right side of the H-frame with the 90 degree limiter in it. The first part is easy, I simply attached two U-joints to the HoG output axle. The second U-joint is attached to a 4L axle with end-stop, which is supported by a few perpendicular connectors. This axle carries a 12t bevel gear. Next step is to place a 20t gear against the back side of the H-frame. To do that, I had to drop the 2 11L liftarms running along the right side of the gearbox. I also had to drop the 3L pin with pin hole supporting the gear selecter axle (with the orange flaps). To compensate for this dropped support, I added a 4x2 liftarm that arrives at the gear selecter axle from the front side. I added some other parts to firmly integrate this 4x2 liftarm. Now the 20t bevel gear can be placed against the back side of the H-frame. I had to attach it to a frictionless pin-axle connector, not ideal, but there is simply no space for an axle longer than 2 studs. The 20t bevel gear drives the selecter axle via a 12t thin bevel gear. Finaly, to avoid slipping gears, I secured the outer end of the axle inserted into the second U-joint using 2 2L (+0)-liftarms. The lower 2L (+0)-liftarm is attached to the H-frame. This way the gears won't slip for sure. Here is an image showing the whole HoG shifting structure and in the background the dropped structure. As you can see I also replaced the brown 3L axles with end-stop carrying the change-over-catches with 4L axles with end-stop. Also because I needed the 3L axles with end-stop for the HoGs themselves: And an image showing only the new structure:

I would be curious to see how. Maybe if the axle that arrives above the H-frame could be secured from the side and not from below then there will be space for another 20t bevel gear inside the H-frame to drive the DayWalker indicator. But that will proof hard, because on the left side sits the 7x3 black panel and on the right side the seat. Btw, I like my dash gear indicator because you can also use it to shift gears. Adds to playability, not to realism of course

Nice suggestion, but that would indeed collide with the seat. The HoG shifting axle inserted into the second U-joint needs to be secured very well, on both side of the 12t bevel gear otherwise it will slip. This is my current approach and immediately shows how close to the seats this already is: But I have my own gear indicator on the dash already, although the DayWalker approach is a better place for a gear indicator.

Nice solution! I would consider using it if I hadn't already used that side of the H-frame for HoG shifting.

That would indeed be a good way to keep the 13L liftarms together. However, it won't help to avoid gears from getting displaced. Actually, this was not what I meant with glue. I was referring to the parts stacked on top of the front side of the 5x7 frame. These parts are to avoid the front 13L liftarm above the diff from bending upwards, away from the 5x7 frame around the diff. This caused the gears at the front to slip. I couldn't find a better way to fix the 13L liftarm to the 5x7 frame, there's no room on the inside of the frame, but this is good enough to avoid the liftarm from bending. I could use your method for the 20t bevel gear at the back though, but then it would have to tie the front 13L liftarm to an additional liftarm behind the 20t bevel gears. That would collide with the engine. The 6 #2 elements I used between the 13L liftarms are not used to glue the liftarms together, but to get a firm hold on the 3x5 levers that hold the vertical HoG axle. It's important to secure that axle otherwise the 12t bevel gear attached to it will slip. I hope this better explains what I mean. Btw, from an engineering point of view, the Porsche chassis has a very bad structure. It doesn't have coherence. It's probably a matter of personal opinion, but now that I have rigidified the rest of the chassis, the engine part was wagging like a dog's tail . When you look closely at the last image before I add the 3L pin with axle hole, you can see there is a gap between the 13L liftarm and the 3L pin with pin hole.

Today I would like to show how I realized the rear HoGs. It has become a kind of photo report. EDIT (2016/07/01): I changed the position of the rear HoGs which also resulted in a slightly different routing of the rear HoG steering. See this post. There is one stud space above and in front of the rear suspension module. I made use of this space and I used the holes in the panels of the body for the HoGs. It wasn't easy and I had to pull some tricks to get all gears slip-proof. This is the structure that I built around the front-side of the 5x7 frame holding the diff. The wide structure holds the output axles of the HoGs. To make sure gears won't slip, each axle - I used a 5.5L axle with stop for HoG steering and a 4L axle with end-stop for HoG shifting - is supported on each side of the gear. The structure on top of the frame is used to glue the frame to the 13L liftarms running above the diff. Without this glue these liftarms get easily pushed away (upwards) from the frame, which will cause slipping gears. Next step is to put a set of angle elements #2 into place and two 8L axles with end-stop, each with a 20t bevel gear. The axles are firmly secured with 6 half bushes each to avoid the bevel gears from slipping. The axles should still rotate without friction. At the back side 2 5L liftarms and 2 4L levers are used to lock-up the bevel gears. The HoG setup is finsihed with two of these structures. I used two 3L axles with end-stop that where originally used for the change-over-catches in the gearbox. I replaced those with 4L axles with end-stop. After connecting these structures to the #2 elements, you can put the body into place, or - for the time being - just a 11x5 panel: Here's an image showing the whole structure and the dropped structure in the background: And an image showing only the new structure:

Stabilized gear rack: Minor improvement on how the engine is attached to the chassis. When you look closely at the last image before I add the 3L pin with axle hole, you can see there is a gap between the 13L liftarm and the 3L pin with pin hole. When you detach the engine first, you can use a normal 2L pin instead of a 3L pin with axle hole:

Thanks! And good to know!

Yes, these are not included. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the essential MODs version and the advanced MODs version. The essentials version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the Essentials sections in the OP. The LXF-file that I made available represents that version. I don't think much will change in that one so I thought it was time to share. The advanced version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis and a dashboard gear indicator, but I'm still working on that one. Rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting and the dashboard gear indicator all work well, but I'm still not satisfied about the operation of the paddle-shifter-unit. But I will probably write a dedicated post about the rear HoGs in the near future. Thank you very much! Good idea to make something like a playlist to bundle all important video's. I'm quite new to youtube. And when I'm completely satisfied about my build I will certainly make a compilation video.

It was a bit of a puzzle, but I managed to get the gear indicator on the dashboard. The indicator has an offIset of 45 degrees and you can use it as a HoG shifter too. In the process of refactoring I also made the front section of the chassis a bit sturdier and of course I had to move the HoG steering to the rear to get the center spot on the dashboard free.. I will post more details later in my ultimately playable thread. http://youtu.be/M1S60ZXpZlo

I get it. Would have been nice to put the 3 2L levers also inside the 11x5 frame. But I can't think of a way to combine this with the 90 degree limiter either. A 3L thin (+++)-lever would also have helped.