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Everything posted by Sven J
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Hi all, Being a lifetime Donald Duck fan, the famous 313 car has been on my list for quite a long time. Finally I managed to actually design and build it, so here it is – the 1934 Belchfire Runabout in approximate 1/24 scale (enabling me to use it also as a decoration for my G-scale trains…): The rumble seat is fully functional: The underbody: We all know that it never rains in Southern California, but in Calisota (the state in which Duckburg is situated), it does… So of course, there’s also a primitive convertible roof for the little roadster… … but nevertheless, it’s seemingly still a rather humble vehicle. (The German text in the speech bubble translates as „Daisy’s going out with Gladstone again! Just because this dandy has won a brand-new Snobillac in a tombola! Someone like me with just a small car can’t compete with that.“) But at night, Donald turns into the Duck Avenger, and we get to see the 313’s secret features, like hovering rockets, a telescopic bumper bar, a bullet-proof shield, a laser gun, a grappling hook shooter and a smoke generator… And of course, thanks to Gyro Gearloose’s ingenuity, it can all be remote-controlled from a safe distance: Full-resolution pictures can be found on Flickr. I hope you enjoyed our short trip to Duckburg! As usual, comments and criticism are most welcome. Thank you! Sven
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Oh, I didn't know that you're of Dutch origin. I can't guarantee that I will succeed... I just said it MIGHT be easier to build a Kuhn slide than a functional lifting link... Well, in fact I have a little idea how it might work, but please give me time to think about it and try it out. Especially as there are also several locomotives on my list that don't have a Kuhn slide - and I really don't know yet which of all those I will build next.
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@Duq It actually seems as if the "Kuhnsche Schleife" was kind of a German specialty - but round here, it was quite popular, mostly for tank engines (see below). Wikipedia has a basic description. Perhaps this illustration, though with German technical terms, will also help to explain the function: The Kuhn slide was used on most DRG standard tank locomotives like the BR62, 64, 80, 81, 84, 86, and even some DRG tender engines had it (most notably the famous world-record BR05, where the large driving wheels left no space for a lifting link, but also the prototypes for the BR41 and 45). After WWII all DB "Neubaulokomotiven" were equipped with the Kuhn slide, too.
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In fact, that's something that I had already been considering. I fear it would be a rather cumbersome procedure, though. That would be a nice model, too, I have to admit. However, there are other locomotives on my list... and actually two of them have the Kuhn slide: First, continuing my series of standard gauge industrial locomotives, there's the Krupp "Bergbau" type, Germany's most powerful 8-coupled tank locomotive (surpassing even the 2-10-0 BR50 in terms of pulling power). Guess who is such a fan of this engine that he wrote a Wikipedia article about it... Second, another narrow gauge engine class from one of my favourite holiday areas: Locomotives no. 12 + 13 of the "Kleinbahn Leer-Aurich-Wittmund". With regard to these locomotives, I am still doing research as to whether they were painted black or dark green. I was able to find relatives of former employees of the railway, but even they can't remember (the locos were scrapped in the 1950s, and no colour photos seem to exist)...
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[MOC] DB E03-001 12v - in "Blue Era" style
Sven J replied to Paperinik77pk's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Neat work as always! The 7740 was a dream of my childhood days... but with this thing it would have been even more gorgeous! -
Hi Sergio, I tried it with one of my previous models (don't remember exactly which one - i think it was the "Flensburger" 0-8-0T, but it might also have been the Bulgarian). Back then I connected the radius bar to the pinhole right below the centre of the expansion link. But this solution didn't satisfy me for two reasons: The mechanism resulted in a rather long valve travel, with the risk of the valve stem falling out of its bearing. While that could have been fixed by using different parts or a modified geometry, the second issue couldn't: That layout, without a functional lifting link, would be prototypically correct for running in one direction only. This might be ok for a tender locomotive running mainly forward. However, for my tank engines, which were designed to run equally well in both directions, I found it inappropriate. So I returned to the radius bar attached to the centre, representing the valve gear's "neutral" position. On of the next locomotives on my list (Arrrghh! So many locos left, yet I'm already running out of shelf space...) has a Kuhn slide in its valve gear... that might be easier to get working than a lifting link... Happy Easter to you and all other readers, too! Sven
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@LEGO Train 12 Volts I used this tape for the first time on my Bulgarian loco some 2.5 years ago, and it still sticks well. And in case that it should come off, it would be very easy to replace.
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It's no paint at all... I use 2mm self-adhesive lining tape for that purpose. It's much easier to apply than paint.
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Basically, yes. I had considered that design for previous models, but dismissed it: It would be prototypically correct for running in one direction only (backwards in case of the R.202). So I prefer the "neutral" position which is equally incorrect for both running directions... No... just some tiny strips of double-sided adhesive tape in the wheel's pinhole. I know the gear wheel trick, but it's more important for me to have a realistic engine frame than to avoid non-purist solutions. With the gears, they would limit the frame's width to 3 studs.
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Thank you! I'm sorry that I have to disagree, Sir... It's not easy to see, but it's there: It's connected to the centre of the expansion link. Not movable, of course, but that's common practice for locomotive models. A functional lifting link is almost impossible to build, I think. But at least the portion above the running board is there, too...
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Thanks again! The feautures that I, personally, am most proud of are the snotted front boiler mounting/steam ducts and the Walschaerts valve gear, which is complete despite the limited space. This proves that it’s possible to have a prototypical valve gear in an 11-w model… maybe a hint for future 1/33 standard gauge locomotive MOCs… ;-) Thank you Thorsten! You’re always too kind. Regarding the BuWizz: Technically you’re right, of course. However, I’m not very talented when it comes to things like soldering, so I have to stick to plug-and-play solutions rather than to make my own LiPo battery packs. And that’s why the BuWizz gives me a significant advantage compared to Lego’s 9V batteries, or 7.4V LiPo, respectively. Another advantage is that the BuWizz uses Bluetooth technology so that it can be hidden deep inside the model, and it's much smaller than the combination of PF receiver and battery.
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Thanks a lot for your kind words! Mille grazie! I feel flattered and honoured that you like to have another, closer look at my model. However, I'm sorry that I have to correct : The sausages are actually the sand tubes - I know they're too thick for that, but I couldn't find a more suitable part. The brake dummies for the second axle are made from 1x2 plates with clips, directly in front of the wheels. For the first axle, I omitted the brakes, as they wouldn't have fit between the large flanges and the cylinders (and they really wouldn't have been visible at all).
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He-he... Thank you! Thank you very much for your appreciation! The white background is actually just a few sheets of ordinary A3 paper on my desk. Each picture is a combination of 5 individual photos (in order to reduce noise). To avoid cast shadows and unwanted reflections, I took the photos under artificial lighting, not in the sunlight. For an acceptable DOF, the aperture was set to f=22. As a result, exposure times were between 8 and 13 seconds...
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Thanks again! You'r really too kind. Every word of that is true... but in addition to that, I don't really have a choice: The smoke generator needs the BuWizz's 11V output. With Lego's standard 9V voltage, the smoke is very thin. Something like that?
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Thank you all for that overwhelming response! I'm very happy that you like that little engine so much. Sergio, my friend, I'm so glad that you're still well! I had the pieces printed by sculpteo.com. The material is called PA12; it matches Lego's light bluish grey quite well (much better than Shapeway's grey PA). For a smoother surface, I opted for Sculpteo's polishing service. P.S. Did you notice - the cab doors are openable this time... Oh, you have seen it on Flickr... As it is not entirely my own design, I chose not to present it here on EB. Be patient - I hope there will be a video in about one or two weeks.
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Edit: New video here. Dear trainheads, Some time ago EB member @Plastic_Goth presented his digital model of Ferrovia Eritrea's Gruppo R.202 shunter. I immediately fell in love with that cute little prototype, and I knew I had to build a model myself, in slightly larger scale for 45 mm garden railway track. Well, here it is! The prototype was built in 1927 by Breda in Milan, Italy, for shunting service on the 950 mm narrow gauge lines in Eritrea (which was an Italian colony at that time). In total, eleven class R.202 engines were built; several lococomotives are still in operation today (the „R“ stands for „scartamento ridotto“, narrow gauge). My MOC represents a R.202 locomotive in ca. 1936, after the original lifting injectors (inside the cab) had been exchanged for non-lifting ones (below the cab), but before a new numbering scheme was introduced, dropping the „R“ in the class designation. The model is held in accurate 1/22.5 scale and driven by a single L-motor working on the second axle. It features front and rear lights (from Brickstuff; separately controllable for the left and right engine side) and a Seuthe no. 99 smoke generator. All funcions are powered and remote-controlled by a BuWizz 2.0. The rods and valve gear parts are 3D-printed parts of my own design. The model consists of approx. 1,400 parts and weighs just over 1 kg. Compared to my previous models, it is much easier to handle and maintain, due to its "small" size, but still has amazing pulling power (10 four-axle LGB cars are no problem). So I think it will become my standard "everyday" engine... And here are the pictures: Prototype data sheet (drawing not accurate and not to scale): While the fireman is carrying out a minor repair on the smokebox door, an administrative officer arrives in his brand new Fiat Topolino (modified design by Peter Blackert): Two tiny Italians... Some views of the cab interior. As the BuWizz is located in the position of the firebox, the roof and the boiler backhead can be removed for access to the power button and to the charging socket: The frame: Three weight bricks are installed inside the frame and boiler, thus increasing traction: The half-plate offset in radius between smokebox and boiler required some unusual (but surprisingly sturdy) SNOT-work. A video of the model on track will follow. For now, here is a short sequence of the engine on the roller test bed: More and high-resolution photos can be found in my Flickr album. Comments and criticism are most welcome. Thanks for your interest! Best regards, Sven
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Well, as a compensation, my next model will be of Italian origin,,,
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A wonderful model of a famous classic locomotive. Your DIY lights add a lot of realism. Well done! Those renders are impressive, too!
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In Italy, side-view mirrors became mandatory as late as 1977, if I understand the Italian Wikipedia correctly. So the mirrorless version should be alright for the time of the Fiat's production.
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These are parts from the former Technic Flex Cable system: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=6642#T=C&C=10 https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=6643#T=C The "bars" aren't bars at all, but Flex Cables with rigid hoses around them. The Flex Cable system is a nice thing, but some of the parts have really hefty price tags...
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Lego acquiring Bricklink - Problem with 3D-printed parts?
Sven J replied to ScotNick's topic in LEGO Train Tech
They updated their Terms of Service on Wednesday... "1.2.4. Modified Parts: All parts listed in your store must be genuine LEGO parts in their original, unmodified condition. Custom printed, engraved, chromed, or painted parts are not permitted. 1.2.5. Custom Sets: Custom sets or instructions may be listed, provided they do not infringe on any intellectual property rights, including those of the LEGO Group. Custom sets may not contain modified parts or non LEGO parts such as lighting kits or electric motors. 1.2.6. Non LEGO Items: Certain non LEGO items that are deemed by BrickLink to be part of LEGO fan culture may be listed. These include literature about LEGO products, LEGO memorabilia, and items used to make custom sets (e.g. stickers, instructions, and boxes)." That's just what I had feared... What did they say when the deal was announced? "BrickLink was acquired by the LEGO Group because they are interested in strengthening the connection with the AFOL community and finding new ways of doing this through improvements to existing functions on the platform." Good joke, eh? -
Lego acquiring Bricklink - Problem with 3D-printed parts?
Sven J replied to ScotNick's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Oh yes, it does. When all non-Lego parts are banned from BrickLink, this will affect many AFOLs. I think our fellow trainhead @zephyr1934 found exactly the right way to react in his comment: 'My BL store has a new banner, "For each custom rod I sell it helps Lego sell about 250 bricks and it helps make one AFOL happy" I hope they have a pathway for custom parts to be reviewed and potentially accepted for listing. If not, my rods will find a new home elsewhere on the internet.' -
Magnificent! This will be great to see as a real-life build, especially when you have completed the remote-control gearbox!
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Ah, okay. Then I don't really know why the engine stalls... Perhaps you could try with a traction ring on one wheel only. At least that's the way Märklin does it with 3-axle gauge 1 locos.
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Very nice work! Amazing how you were able to get all components into such a small package! Are the rods quartered correctly (90° offset left vs. right side)? Well, I think you'll mainly need stickers with white lettering on transparent background for this locomotive. Now if you plan to build more models requiring that sort of stickers, it might be worth considering to buy a Dymo labeler and print stickers on your own. I'm very happy with this little tool. (And no, I'm not affiliated to the company. )