syclone

Perhaps if they spent some development money into new clutches and gearbox gears instead of all this C+/new panels/other weird non-functional stuff we could get more compact and realistic gearboxes But nah, they still use (almost) the same stuff as ~30 years ago... at least we finally got the 20t gear and 28t (sort of, assuming the new disassembled differential can be used that way). As far as simple 1:10 cars go - I see no reason for them to be kept simple, the Flexari was basically a rolling hole due to that.

Yes, I ended up succesful))) - converted my binary .stl file to ascii-encoded .stl using this website tool: https://www.meshconvert.com/ - used this tool to convert the resulting stl into .dat: https://github.com/HazenBabcock/stl-to-dat The .dat converter is a python program, I used Python IDLE, opening the file there, then "Run" > "Run Customised" (or Shift+F5) Then in the command box that opens wrote the input file name (with the .stl extension). The .py program and the input file must be in the same folder, the output .dat will be generated with same name as input file in that folder too. Then I've placed mine into the unofficial library, re-run the indexing executable and was able to use the part. ----------------------------------------------------------- Although I've run into another small issue: When editing in LDCad, the part is invisible, only can see a crosshair marking the part position (it can be edited and placed that way). The part does show up in LDView,POVRay and LDpub though, so instructions and renders are unaffected. Have no idea why this happens.

Wow, that's some amazing skills to make a B-model faster than the set releases Lovely looking, really makes me wonder why there's no official alternate... oh well, can't hope something amazing from TLG these days, at least we finally got a proper set! Even more insane is that it doesn't use any pneumatics yet has so much functionality Kudos for making it a cab-over engine instead of the american style nose too, looks much more modern Now all that's left is swap the wheels for 49'5x14 and we got a new top-notch truck heheheh

Such a great entry, truly wonderful how many different functions are present in such a small model! The small design changes are a good improvement

Wow, really great entry! Seriously feels as if someone enlarged the original set, the stickers look fantastic as well. The cars look close enough to the original even without taking into consideration the mentioned colour availability. I believe Eric Trax said it best, a winner right here!

Wow, that's an honest review stating cold facts from top to bottom. Even more impressive is the amount of negative comments made towards the set - most want C+ gone or simply find it boring lol. For a partspack - no way it's worth it. Even if you manage to sell off the electronics (good luck) the Tow Truck is much better value, both as a set and parts alone. Nonetheless I have found a positive side to this set - I now started to like 42070 .

I wonder if that's the case. Still, they do weird stuff - Creator Expert models are just an eyesore, even completely different parts need to be different colour just because they're close... Just highlight the part in the instructions, not make a trillion weird colour parts. I suppose so, still quite a weird system with the blue/tan colour exception you mentioned. Even more weird is the 2L axle+pin in black - isn't it too similar to a 2L black pin by their logic?? Though apparently it was the DBG 2Lpin+axle that needed to be recoloured into red... No idea what they're smoking up there in Billund. In regards of getting new pins - perhaps a good point, but they need to calm down with the colours, the circus wants them back As far as deciphering goes, can see it being useful, although didn't rely on it too much when reverse-engineering MOCs a few years ago since there's still a few using same colours. Have to agree with Howitzer with the bush pin - I believe it's the only "correct" pin as it gets coloured as the design needs it rather than having a specific colour, though it's certain Technic sets have a tendency to use a same colour one, being red some time ago, now orange...

All frictionless pins used to be light grey, then light bley. Only exception was the dark grey/dark bley 3/4 pin. IMHO that was the best - has friction then it's black, frictionless - grey. Both tan and blue stand out way too much (and now even red ). But oh well, glad I left the brainwashing system. Then first came down the axle-pins, becoming tan, being followed by 3L pins and 3/4 ones. Still beats me why they do this even though they add 1x part per page and most people don't dump all the pins in a single box. And now since they make this pin LBG, we're basically back to square one, what was the point of making all frictionless pins different from 2L tan, if now we have a 2L and a 3L LBG pin?! Same with possibility of bar insertion - this pin seems to accept one, all the while they are removing that ability from all other pins... wtf.

I'm not sure whether a "like button" proposal is a good thing or not. For once, I know a few forums that have this implemented (and seem to be using same platform as EB, one example is LinusTechTips). But they usually have a few reaction types, i.e. hilarious, thumbs up... Not sure what kind of reactions would be suitable for a MOC presentation. As mentioned by others this sort of "fake interaction" is plentiful on other platforms. I myself am guilty of such behaviour, just scrolling through Twitter/Instagram feed and pressing like without much thought if I like the post/content - in a few days won't even remember anything I saw there. Perhaps some will find such system reassuring, but a comment means so much more - even if it's pointing a fault. A comment means that the person took their time to read through the post and look at the details, perhaps looked up/compared what the real thing looks like and took their time to write a meaningful answer (of course there can be an obvious question or a simple reply too). On the other side it'd be a good thing, since it's true one can find themselves short of words for a MOC - perhaps you recognise the quality of the build, the likeliness to the original or the complexity, but would end up repeating a trillionth "awesome!!" or "love this supercar!". Perhaps you'd like the author to know that you like the build, but it's not in your general area of interest, therefore you can't pinpoint a detail you find excellently done - I for one have no idea about construction or farming equipment, so wouldn't want to appear an ignorant person making a comment with an obvious remark or question. Sure the lack of interaction can feel discouraging, but at least this forum is alive, comparing to another local one, where posts barely have any audience at all, on the first page one can find stuff from 2016 or earlier, sometimes with 0 replies and barely any views, or an empty hearted/robotic response like "you did well.".

It's a Fire Engine Big Red Brick! Didn't want to finish it, but it'd be a shame to have yet another unfinished TC entry The front doors&seats both on the original and this are in a weird configuration, waaaaay in the back. But it came in handy since there was plenty of space to make the steering wheel work. Need to steal a few white pieces from my Daihatsu for the roof and rear. It can sort of be seen through the windows, but emits a pleasant sound when rolling it around.

Thanks! Indeed love that channel, lots of fun cars. Also quite a fan of the tuned "sexspec" ones they show, reminds me of "Pimp my Ride" episodes. Their episode on their 10th gen turbocharged Hijet was a fun watch))) Also have a WIP of another generally "unconventional"/rare vehicle they featured... Thanks! A japanese builder on instagram said they're very popular in rural areas, so 4x4 seems to come in handy. Although on the real machine it's only partial, the usual configuration is FWD. Thanks for the realism points, also made sure to indicate the "480" since it's a small freight vehicle))) Would need a lot of luck in the lottery to get a 33-33 though! Unfortunately screwed up the size, since real plates are 330x165mm, which is a 1:2 aspect ratio - at 1/11 scale a tad smaller than a 2x4 tile... but for some reason 2x3 looked better Managed to sneak in two anime references in the kanji and hiragana as well (might be a bit far fetched though) Looked into printing them too, but it cost 2-3€ per piece +S&H, ended up printing a laser copy and making a tape transfer, not that good looking up close, but much cheaper for certain.

Good Day! Today I present to you a small-ish 1/11 scale MOC: Daihatsu Hijet S110P Introduction about the real thing: This truck belong to a japanese "kei" car category, and the 8th generation (which this model represents) was made between 1994 to 1999. It features a 660cc inline 3, 31kW EF-NS engine. LEGO model: -Scale: 1/11 -Power: CaDA conroller -Drive: L-motor, 4x4 -Steering: Servo motor, working steering wheel -Working headlamps -Openable doors with locks -Front strut suspension -Rear "leaf spring" suspension (flexaxles) -Openable glovebox -Openable rear hatch and bed side walls Wanted to build one of these for quite some time, but the wheel choice was tight - either too wide or just too big. Having made the custom 49.5x14 tyres back in April, they seemed a perfect choice, and now that they're official parts, even better. The finished build is quite front heavy, as it is to expect, but as a result of this, the suspension is an abolute delight to play with, and is quite responsive. The front axle is a reworked version of the one I made in "Desert Rally car" several years ago. Unfortuntaly, LEGO CV joints are prone to popping out, and the new ones are useless due to how big they are. This means that every now and then the truck becomes wither 3x4 or RWD, but the truck pulls through without much issue. For control, I ended up using CaDA block, as it has a physical remote and it's much more fun that way. Nonetheless, it is mounted using the anti-studs on the bottom, so BuWizz is a drop-in replacement. PF AAA battery box can also be used with minor mods. Front bumper posed major challenge to me, as I'm not very well-versed in bricking. Technic solutions looked ugly, and using a brickbuilt grille didn't look good either. Had to use the 1x2 grille tile as a solution, which ended up frowing on me in the end. There's a little SNOT to get everything to allign, but mostly it's just plates&tiles. Video and more photos below, PDF instructions available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-83476/syclone/rc-daihatsu-hijet-s110p/#details Brickshelf gallery: https://brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=583241 Thanks for reading!

Great model as always. Considering your limitations in regards of inventory, it is amazing what you were able to pull off. Great performance too, with all that weight in back -------- As far as "IP" and whatever, there are thousands of MOCs of cars, trucks and other stuff that is model of "XYZ" company. No one gives a megablock about it.

Well, somehow prefer the beams, as they look much cleaner Hood vent fits great, specially in combination with that rear spoiler

Afaik, Bricklink's Stud.io has the ability to do mosaics from an image, and then it is possible to make instructions. https://rebrickable.com/help/guide-to-stud-io/ Also, this tool seems to be able to make mosaics and generate PDF instructions: https://lego-art-remix.debkbanerji.com

As my tag suggests, LDD is my preference. Tried Stud.io - a pain in the a$$ to work in, overcomplicated and barely has any advantages now that new parts can be added into LDD in a matter of few minutes (check digital forum) and developer options can be enabled. Recently also started using LDCad+LDpub, but ONLY for instructions, and it is A LOT better than stud.io for part positioning and flexaxles, although the tutorials don't explain very well what to do and assume some stuff for known, but once you get over it, stuff makes sense and the program becomes easier to use with hotkeys. My parts inventory has always been limited, so LDD allowed me to build a lot of stuff I didn't have parts for. So far ~95% of my builds started in LDD, then I test the model and progress forwards either physically or digitally. It's very user-friendly, so it feels natural to build unlike the professional CAD nature of LDRAW-based tools. Stud.io seems to have tried to combine LDD and these LDRAW tools, but in my eyes it has a horrible UI (feels like usng an Apple computer) and general building procedure (aforementioned problems by others), so it never caught me in. Having short patience, not having to dismantle tens of parts just to change something small also is very helpful. Another bonus of digital building is the ease of backup - I still have .lxf files from when I started using LDD in 2012, but a lot of photos/videos got deleted over time to save space. Now, is it something essential? depends on the person. It has been discussed countless times before, and some absolutely despise any sort of digital building, others only use digital tools... whatever fits you better.

I'd love to see this. C+ motors (and the PF servo) are quite bulky, perhaps something similar to a RC servo but with PF connectivity would be perfect for smaller-scale MOCs. I know you guys need to keep up with TLG's system, but all third-party electronics are PF-based, so some progress in that area too would be much appreciated!

Guess I got a handle on the situation.

That engine bay Interesting solution with 5L liftarms, I see you're also using a 1x1 round tile with a pimple (tube?) to continue the curve, looks fantastic

Well as someone who crossed to the dark side and can buy a PF-compatible motor for 5€&free shipping, PU/C+ components are expensive, even if they come from sets Also, personally h8 C+ with a passion for a lot of reasons Sad to hear about Spike sensors not being supported, one would imagine if they forced that connector onto everything, it'd at least all work together... oh well. Does the other app (Mindstroms, spike...?) not support the Technic hubs?

Well that escalated quickly. <br> Are the lipsticks perhaps used to attach the hands to the handlebars?

Unique approach, a shame the software isn't up to the task though . Also quite expensive lol. Another possible way would be to program a Raspberry Pi to interact with the hub directly, but afaik TLG hasn't updated their C+ protocol source code, so I don't see it happenning soon or easily (not that I know anything about programming besides Excel VB )

Impressive machine, although I've sold my NXT recently, so no pin-sorter for me Wonder if EV-3 has enough power to run a shape-recognition program for wider pin-sorting possibilities using a webcam.

At none point have I said that it has the best of the best. It simply needs to get the job done without being a POS. As it is right now, it barely has any offroad abilities, or if it had any, they are runied by the problems aforementioned (you forgot the miniscule ground clearance btw). Also you seem to forget the gates included in the box, which serve the purpose of defining a trail to traverse - offroading innuendo. In regards of your laughing emoji statement: As far as I'm concerned, most buyers seeing a set pictured in a certain environment will suppose that the set can be used there, hence why water vehicles in Technic line have the Model does not float text on the box. However there's no such warning on Zetros, and a bare minimum can be expected therefore. It is the same as any other product - if it can't do it, the manufacturer has to clarify that ( the "presentation suggestion" label on food products is an example). Imagine a phone being marketed being used in a pool of water - one's first though is most likely to be "Oh, I can use that in water", not "tHis Is a sMaRtPhOne, ThErEfOrE i CaN't UsE iT iN wAtEr". The company marketing has to present (although usually perfect or exagerrated) realistic expectations and convince the buyer to buy a product. Otherwise it's simply deceitful. I simply can't rate something as good when it is simply bad, and much better products can be obtained, even if it's a toy.

When I was a kid, I didn't really care if my toys got dirty while taking them outside, specially if it's an Offroad Vehicle that is pictured travelling trough dirt on the box itself... In fact I had two cheap (30-40€ or so) RC cars that performed similar to this abomination... Can't really understand why people are defending a poorly performing set by saying that it's not meant to be an offroader while it is clearly a model of an offroader with promotional images explicitly suggesting so. Perhaps Technic's "Build for real" marketing should be changed to "Built for sterile environments"?