syclone

Most impressive replica, will have to second the reply above - needed a double take to realize that it was, in fact, a Lego model Judging from the video it also quite a quick model for 7'7kg, those 6XL motors are sure put to a good use

m8.... that's a differential's normal function. The inner spur gears allow the wheels to have different speeds. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Differential_(mechanical_device) However please check if you built your gearbox correctly - as it seems that is the issue from your video since the red central differential doesn't move.

Ohohoh, Doug at it again with another whacky car (though it pales in comparison to the Nissan S-cargo ) While at it, thanks a lot for even more positive replies))))) Aaaand honestly quite happy the pop-ups weren't a thing on the Autozam - at least that version, as it looks quite sad hahah. I'll leave another render here - three colours side-by-side.

Depends on whom you might ask. A lot of people on Instagram and facebook add "carbon fibre" prints on parts, sticker up a whole model, spray paint it to change the body colour... but then, these people don't build a single MOC by themselves, their only purpose in doing this is to occupy a shelf with a pretty Technic supercar, take some photos and get cred on SNS. Then we have the (relatively) conservative MOCers who might spice up a model with chromed discs here, paint a single part because it is not available in that colour and is absolutely crucial... Finally there's purists - no custom nothing, or just some little additions (i.e - rubber bands, dissasembled shocks...) - and those who use a 3rd party supplier to make up for lack of parts in certain colours (transparent parts for headlights for example) or make a model in a unique colour that isn't common in Technic. Personally I see no issue with either - it's your turf, do whatcha wanna do. Certainly some spray-painted examples are, well, ugly or really badly done, but nonetheless some are very impressive like Paul Boratko's two tone supercar (see spoiler below). The wheels are the smallest offenders I believe - some colours like Sian's golden ones won't fit each and every MOC, and Defender wheels are only available in black, whereas the "normal" rim of the same size comes in a variety of them. Would I do it? Not really. The most I'd do is chrome some discs, but that's because I don't mind using cheaper solutions , and reusability is key for me, can't afford having something on display or ordering new parts for every MOC. The abovementioned car:

1. Do you mean the front wheels and the rear wheels roll in opposite directions? Then one of the differentials is installed the wrong way. 2. But if it's the same axle (if you rotate the right wheel forward and left wheel is rolling the opposite direction) then it's normal - that's how a differential works. Nonetheless if you take both rear wheels and rotate them together and the front wheels rotate the opposite direction - the differential gear is the wrong way. Refer to this picture by Jim from his review - Both differentials should have the gear on the same side.

Go to Rebrickable page of the MOC -> Build MOC -> Change Build Options -> "extra set" - enter Chiron set number. ------------------------------------------------- The fotos of the lime version look amazing

Yes, his program has to be used via Python: https://www.python.org/downloads/ Though I can convert these to .dat for you, you can send the files through PM if you need

Wow, huge thanks for everyone's praise! Glad to hear the car has caused a good impression))) Never expected to get it to the frontpage either, thank You Milan @Seasider About alternative colour - it is 100% possible - only change necessary is to substitute the 3L smooth axle joiner to the version with ridges. It would require some rare parts though, like 2L axles in white. In the spoiler below the renders of the two-tone and full white versions)) @FriedlS The spring were taken out from the soft LBG shock absorbers - part 76138

Good Day. Today I present you another japanese car in 1/11 scale - Autozam AZ-1. This kei class sport coupé is one of the most recogniseable/famous ones outside japan in spite of it's poor sales due to the high asking price and the burst of the bubble economy at the time. It also forms part of what is known as "Heisei ABC Trio" (Autozam AZ-1; Honda Beat; Suzuki Capuccino). The real car was developed by Mazda (Autozam being their brand focused on Kei car and sales of rebadged vehicles) with the F6A engine (in-line 3-cylinder DOHC turbo) coming from Suzuki. It was sold in the standard, Mazdaspeed and special editions (such as M2 1015) as well as under Suzuki badge as "CARA". Following the japanese kei class category standards, AZ-1 has 64ps (47'8kW) and is quite small at 3295 x 1395 x 1150 mm. To put that into perspective, here it is against a "small" european car: Some of the reasons why this car stands out so much are the gullwing doors and the MR layout. This model represents the standard edition, with a low factory spoiler(wing?), in it's iconic two-tone red+gun metal colour scheme. Initially it was intended to use the 43.2 wheels, but after making the Daihatsu Hijet in 1/11 scale with the 49'5x14 tyres, I wanted to make them in same size. This allowed me to cram both more detailing and functionality. The final model's features are: - M-motor for drive (with differential) - Servo for steering - Front independent MacPherson strut suspension with positive caster angle - Rear independent MacPherson strut suspension - Working steering wheel - Working fake engine - Working headlights - Detailed dashboard with AC vents, stereo and gauges - Detailed interior with gearlever, emergency brake, seats and door detailing - Openable doors, boot and bonnet I've tried to replicate the general look the best I could and to make the model more or less consistent overall. Hence the use of liftarms placed onto flexaxles for front quarter panels, as bare flexaxles stood out too much. The side intakes took some time to make as well, and even though I've tried using the 1x2 grille tiles, in the end the bionicle tooth piece ended up being my go to solution. The lower door sills actually use a bit of inherent slack coused by frictionless pins to archieve that slight inwards angle towards the bottom, but it is quite sturdy and doesn't damage any parts. Presentation video: PDF instructions available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86177/syclone/rc-autozam-az-1/ Photo gallery (and an extra at the end of post): I've actually forgotten to take an underside picture, so here's a render instead to make up for it. Although red is definitely the most iconic colour for the AZ-1, there was also a second factory-available colour - blue. Unfortunately TLG's Technic colour palette has barely any blue parts, and having Bruno's Ferrari as parts donor the choice was already made, but if you don't mind ordering 3rd part parts, here's what it'd look like: Hope you've enjoyed this small model - C&C is most welcome as always)))

Without the stickers it seems as if it is wearing one of these: Welp, really was a great opportunity for some new smaller CV joints for the front axle, specially with that "Raptor" badge... guess these will never come...

Well, perhaps downscaling it a bit (somewhere around the size of 8275) would've helped... I've only seen a pair of photos but seems like it's a big shell on tracks, similar to the Liebherr. This would also remove the need for new tracks, potentially making the price even smaller (or not, since there doesn't seem to be a direct correlation of new elements increasing launch prices, nor prices lowering once the element is used in various sets). I'd also support it being pneumatic (since it's most similar to hydraulics in Technic), but even the "mini" motor from C+ is enormous compared to normal RC/robotics servos... so not a chance, specially with such a functionally limiting system such as C+.

Well, most aren't saying that a 70's brick on wheels is better than a 3000 piece supercar... just some particular details are infuriating such as C+, colour vomit, etc. Even so, my first set (8281) still is much more functional and fun than most sets nowadays that sell for around the same price. Perhaps had I grown up on 10 types of bricks, a pair of axles and gears, my opinion would differ, and I'd be elated to get the latest smart thingy that you can point your camera at to see the internals (like the new Zetros app feature), but I did not. I'm neither a millionaire to pay thriple or quadruple a set's worth cuz of a logo and a license from some company I hold no interest in. Since our views seem so different, you do you, and I'll do me.

These ^^^ Also, the fact that all mechanical parts are absolutely huge (or getting bigger than the old counterparts, like the gearbox "clutch"), and in most cases very weak/prone to breaking. Gimme smaller CV joints that won't pop out whenever barely touched!!!

If you were serious - I don't think there's much going for it, it's same stuff as PF, just new connector to screw people who have tons of PF motors . The only "new" feature is programmable stuff - and honestly that's Mindstorms territory, not Technic. Lastly, seeing as most contests are actually against electronics - the chances of even seeing something like that are even more slim. ---------------------------------- How about a simple one? I'm on a strike with unfinished TC entries

Voted for seeeing the finished model, but really depends on the MOC. If it's something with innovative/complex functions, then of course a WIP topic can provide a great look into how these got made, but it'll also take away the "wow" effect of seeing the finished model. For small/medium MOCs without much complexity WIP topics might not be that suitable - although then again there is some amazing stuff out there that could make for an interesting to read/participate WIP.

Even as a big fan of the buggy motors - they're a major pain in the a$$ to build with. The "original" ones are even more so due to the 9V connector taking up space, and as mentioned half stud offsets are terrible to work with, specially in a small MOC, where all little space matters. BuWizz motors are nicer since they removed the diagonal supports for the pinholes and made them round, but are not as exciting as I thought them to be, considering the elevated base price+additional hardware to power them at full potential (BuWizz 3.0+PU motors) in return for a small performance increase. As far as desireable features: - form factor without half stud offsets/annoying bumps - angular type motor (with a pass-through axlehole) - close to or same performance as the "original" So far very happy to see innovation from CaDA - the new pico LEDs and micro motors are long wanted items, and making them PF-compatible was the right choice. Now Tested the servos again by themselves, with different extension cables, and even a switch - same result unfortunately (on all 4 BuWizz ports and both legacy and new apps). Although hearing that your BuWizz 2.0 unit has no issues controlling them leads me to believe that my BuWizz 1.0 is either defective or simply developed a fault after all these years - cannot confirm which one is it though, as never had a servo motor until now. Though will hold off on getting something else hearing now that a CaDA app is developing. Does this mean that the current hubs actually support proportional controls and the only limiter is the remote? In that case would love to see a proportional remote someday too - currently enjoying the phone-free control a lot.

Looks great and (90s) futuristic Ingenious usage of pieces from what I can see, any chance from other angles too?

Yes, they are according to reviews (at least the new ones from "pro" series, with partially trans-black case). Here's a great pdf with most major 3rd party motors (except MK for their piracy issues): https://brickelectronic.de/downloads/Brickelectronic_TechCheck3_en.pdf However in spite of having ia rotary encoder inside, CADa servos don't seem to work with my BuWizz (1.0). All I get is weird jittering and -90, 0 ,+90 controls, and it doesn't work whatsoever in the new app - just ignores command inputs or goes crazy . It definitely is trying to position itself somewhere in-between with the old app, but success rate is practically 0 - sometimes it turns to about 30deg, but either returns to 0 or one extreme. Perhaps my BuWizz is defective or something, since it's the first gen. Looking into selling it and getting a Sbrick or another batterybox+receiver combo with proportional controls, having to use a phone has become a considerable pain after getting used to the CADa remote, even if it has extreme-only controls without stepping.

So Technic japanese cars when? Let's hope the next 1:8 isn't yet another Volkswagen... Although seeing as they make more and more american vehicles in Technic not getting my hopes up

Cannot wait to get my hands on them too, such great stuff (TLG micro-motor's semi decent, but the stud connection is difficult to make work). The vehicle seems quite fast&fun too)))))

We'll that's very wasteful. Even an XL motor being held only on one side has no issues running (and breaking gears in the drivetrain ) and looking up dissasembled l-motors, they're no that different. So no need to bin it if it's indeed the thermistor. To open, don't scrape, push a small flathead screwdriver between the two parts of case where the clips are, pushing the outer shell (LBG) outwards and the clips (DBG) inwards. There'll ofcourse be a little damage to the clips and a slightly bent clip holder, but once reassembling use a pair of pliers to compress the motor from both sides where those holders are and it'll all be fine (not as new, but not a catastrophical failure)

IMho 99% it's the wire. Try wiggling it with a constant power source and if it starts working ther you have the problem. Also lego wire have awful coating - it crumbles within a few years. Maybe there's a short somewhere. If it's a wire and is close to the motor - cut it shorter and resolder. If it's somewhere or close to the plug I'd suggest getting a new plug off Ali or maybe a custom wire if your plug is the openable type (with latches, they changed it in the last years to be a solid piece). Mechanical issues are quite hard to come by - the planetary gears are closed off quite well, and the thermistor would've prevented any damage as it is quite weak. I mean, my m-motors were constantly used/tested in dirt/dust with small rocks outdoor environments and 100% of failures has been the wire.

I just ticks me off. Their marketing is "18+" and "Build for real", yet they insist that real cars look like this? gtfo Besides, Technic used to have most parts black/other neutral colour which was easy to hide, even if some pins were poking onto the outside - now every pin has to be a different bright colour because we're apprently de-evolutioned this much to not be able to differentiate them by other means (don't get me wrong, I know of people who have a hard time doing so because of a condition/other reasons, I'm just saying what is generally true, especially for fans who grew up building that way). Then we have part reusability - you need to work around these crappy colourings to hide them as much as possible to get a good look. And no, they're still visible, even the top-of-the-line Sian has blue pins poking through a (several shades of) lime bodywork Aaaand, other themes get parts recoloured to make the outside looks even (look at theose HP glasses using black 2L axles. And what about Technic? NOTHING. What was the last time we got a specifically coloured pin/axle or a bush/half/bush to match the bodywork??? No, apparently Technic fans are absolute wimps that won't be a able to find a (eg.) lime pin that most liley would be a placed in a separate bag anyway! Oh, and make sure the axles are also some bright colour so a kid who should be building Duplo could build this 18+ set!!!!

Considering sets with pneumatics tend to be at least 12+ and kids use scissors in class since pre-school... that'd be quite an overkill protective measure. Although considering how they massacred Technic to be kiddo-suitable, quite likely. I guess including 3 rolls of tubing (thanks to the colour coding ¬_¬) with extra length just in case isn't the best idea anyway. If it were black as in 80's, 90s... we'd have a chance of it being that way. albeit very low. Besides we don't know how they add the tubing into sets - perhaps they have rolls of tube and just tell the machines to cut x length directly into the bag on request? Sounds more efficient than having a roll, cutting it up into pieces to then store them in a container in some warehouse to later place into set bags.

It was a red one, placing the .dat in the model's location fixed it, thank you so much!!