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Thanks everyone for your kind comments The 'Automatic Motor Shutoff and Alarm System' seems to be popular. The nice thing about it is that under normal use it just passes through the motor's power with very little added resistance. The gear ratio doesn't change either, so it is easy to replace any existing motor with this system without having to make any major modifications. The clutch in the middle only slips for a split second before the motor turns off, so the parts used to make the clutch aren't being worn out either. It is great for mechanisms that have constant loads on them such as GBCs, but not so good for mechanisms that have variable loads such as vehicles. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it I've only made fully detailed instructions for one of my models before (my Technic Water Strider), but I'm not very efficient at making them so they take me a long time to create. I could create an MLCad file if someone else would be willing to turn that into instructions. Let me know if you want me to do this.

Hi Everyone. I'd like to show you my GBC Module that I made called "To and Fro". Definition: to and fro /ˌto͞o ən ˈfrəo͝o/ adverb - in a constant movement backward and forward or from side to side. verb - move constantly backward and forward. noun - constant movement backward and forward. I wanted to design a GBC module that I hadn't seen done before. The main feature of this design uses a string and pulley system, with different levels of mechanical advantage implemented to get the timing of the mechanisms just right. This GBC module adheres to Type 1 of the GBC Standards, processing one ball per second on average (http://greatballcontraption.com/wiki/Standard). The main focus of this module is the 'ladder' in the middle which raises and lowers using string and pulleys. You can see this in the video between 1:48 and 2:04, and I'll try to describe what is happening. First of all, the end of the string is attached to the frame, and goes down to the cranks. The exact length of the string can be adjusted, similar to how guitar strings are tightened. The cranks have pulleys on them, so the string actually moves twice as far as the diameter of the cranks as they rotate, but at the same time the force is halved. Next, the string goes up to a pulley fixed on the frame, then down and around another pulley, and back up again. The bottom pulley is attached to the moving part of the 'ladder'. This halves the distance that the 'ladder' moves compared to the string, but also decreases the force required to do so. The string goes over another static pulley at the top, and then back down to the outside edge of the moving part of the 'ladder'. To move the outside edge of the 'ladder' requires the full force of the string to move. Due to the mechanical advantage of the different parts of the pulley system, the 'ladder' wants to move up first since this takes less force, but once it hits a stop at it's upper limit, the string then provides force to the outside edge of the 'ladder' which causes that last little 'kick', which lets the balls roll to the other side. This module can also be broken down into four smaller sections for easier transportation: The motor which is part of my Automatic Motor Shutoff and Alarm System, The 'hopper' and 'ball diverter', The 'ladder', and The 'waterfall'. There is only one M-motor powering this module and that helps ensure the timing of each section is in sync with the next. The motor section is attached to the 'ladder' section with a universal joint, and the 'ladder' section is attached to the 'hopper' section with a CV joint. The 'waterfall' section doesn't need any motor input, so it is attached to the 'ladder' section with a single axle that allows it to be detached easily. Between the 'ladder' section and the 'hopper' section is differential (hidden away underneath), and I can manually adjust the rotation of this differential via a worm gear to get the timing between each section just right. Apart from this one worm gear used to make timing adjustments, I haven't used any other worm gears as I have seen the damage they can do to GBC modules if something gets jammed (although, in theory, my Automatic Motor Shutoff and Alarm System should stop this from happening anyway). There are quite a lot of gears within the drivetrain, but it runs quite smoothly. When I was creating it I thought the weight of the 'ladder' would cause a lot of strain on the motor, but when one side is going up gravity is making the other side go down which cancels out a lot of the strain. Jams sometimes occur in the 'hopper' and 'ball diverter' sections, and are typically caused by too many balls in the hopper, or the timing of 'ball diverter' not being adjusted correctly. I have had this running at a public expo that my LUG held, but I was too busy to baby-sit this module, so it was only running part of the time, but when it was running it ran without issue. This is the first GBC module that I have made, so I spent a lot of time trying to get it working consistently. I hope you like it. Any constructive feedback/comments/questions are welcome. UPDATE: I have created an LDraw/MLCad file of my GBC module. Read more here. Music:

I used a total of 127 chain links. I would have tried to make this model bigger, but I was limited by the number of spare chain links that I had. Instead of chain links, you could use string instead, and replace the gears with pulleys. As long as there is enough tension in the string (but not too much), string would probably end up being a bit smoother than chain links. I might try that out in the future sometime.

Hi Andy, thanks for your kind words. I don't really have any other photos of this model at the moment, but the key parts are the six gears and the chain going around them with the sliding shuttle in the middle. Everything else is just me trying to build a working proof-of-concept by adding a frame, and cranks. Really, these can be added in any way that you like. The tires are just used to stabilize the model and provide grip so that it doesn't slide around the table. The size of my model was determined by the number of chain links that I had available. If you make it bigger, you may want to add something to put a little bit of tension on the chain. If you have any other questions, let me know and I'll provide more details where I can.

Hi everyone It has been a little while since I have posted anything, but I wanted to share my latest model with you. GoPro HERO Session Camera Dolly and Panning Rig This model is a dual purpose dolly and panning rig for a GoPro HERO Session camera. It uses a single chain to control both the linear movement of the camera (dolly) and/or the rotational movement of the camera (panning). My YouTube video explains how this works in detail: Please let me know what you think. PS. For other models that I haven't posted on Eurobricks, please check out my YouTube channel (https://www.youtube.com/user/slfroden). Thanks

A Technic Snowflake: Thanks Mike

This is one of my favorite Ferrari cars, but maybe that is because I watched MagnumPI when I was growing up. You have done a great job recreating this car, and it is instantly recognizable. I like all of the details (that others have already mentioned), and I especially like how you built the grills on the hood above the head lights.

This reminds me a lot of my own braiding machine that I created last year (link), but it looks like yours works more reliably at faster speeds. Nice work

Nice work! I like the look of this a lot, however I do agree with others that the wheels look a little bit small, and a little bit of colour could help, such as stripes across the hood/roof or along the sides, or maybe just different coloured rims or hub-caps.

@Hugolin - Nice update using the winch instead of the reel to take up the final braid. I had also been thinking about making the same modification to my braiding machine since, as the reel gets full, it tries to pull the braid through faster (due to the larger diameter), and that changes the density of the braid. Using the winch allows the speed of the braid to remain constant, and results in a more consistent braid. Also, as you mentioned, having the winch allows you to remove some of the braid during manufacture without having to take it off the reel. Keep up the good work.

For Technic sets, check out the incredible work by Blakbird at www.technicopedia.com (click through to the individual set details). For calculating gear ratios, check out Sariel's Gear Ratio Calculator page (Sariel is also the author of the book listed above - The Unofficial LEGO Technic Builder's Guide).

#24 - 1 point #27 - 3 points #28 - 1 point

Great looking car!

Originally being from Australia, where we have right hand drive vehicles, I would normally try to mirror the steering on Technic vehicles. When the steering is just a fake steering wheel, that usually isn't too difficult. When the steering is linked to the steering wheel, it is usually possible to mirror it, but you have to be careful to make sure you don't miss something while building. However, there is one set that I remember that could not 'simply' be mirrored, due to the seat. That set is 8041 / 42041, which uses a Blue Technic, Panel Car Mudguard Right (see the first few pages of Book 2 of the instructions). To mirror this model, you would need the left version of this piece.

This is a true piece of art. Great work.

This is my favourite of the Thirty-Six Views of Mt Fuji, and you have done a great job to recreate it in Lego

Great work I also made a much smaller braiding machine (link), and I still want to make a larger one like this too. I guess you beat me to it I like the way that you keep the tension in the threads.

@Blakbird - Hmm, you might have to cut your daughter's hair off first, then I could probably run it through the braiding machine. @aeh5040 - Thanks for the videos - I had seen the first one before, but not the second. I had also seen some of the Meccano ones too. I am looking to build a larger, more complex braiding machine with more bobbins, but I don't want to promise anything as I have a few other projects to work on first.

Thanks everyone for the comments. I had the idea to build something that braids by myself, however after doing some research, I found that there are lots of other machines that also braid. The industrial machines usually have more bobbins. You can see the reciprocal motion in this video: Lego Technic Worm Drive and Linkage Mechanism

This model is my Lego Technic Braiding Machine which debuted at the 2015 Brickworld Lego Expo in Chicago (June 17 - 21 2015). There are three bobbins of thread that travel in a figure eight (8) pattern, causing the threads to intertwine and create a braid. A spool then collects and slowly winds up the braid. At Brickworld, once the collection spool was full, I cut the braids into lengths about 20cm (8 inches) long and handed them out to kids as friendship bracelets. This model was well received, and was nominated in the 'Best Mechanical' division. The toughest part of building this model was getting the timing of each mechanism just right. To keep everything in sync, only a single M-Motor is used. The other challenge that I faced was keeping it running for extended periods of time. All of the moving parts of the model would slowly work themselves apart, and the worm gears wanted to force the model apart any time one of the bobbins jammed. I hope you like my model, and all comments and feedback are welcome. Special shout-out to Nico71 for inspiring me with his braiding machine and looms. If you haven't seen his models, you should check them out (Nico's Blog).

This is an amazing model, very mesmerizing to watch, and creates beautiful mathematical artwork. Great job

I like the door opening mechanism a lot. Everything looks nicely concealed, and I think you have done a great job getting it to look like the real thing. Nice work

Fantastic work I think that if you are creating an RC model, it doesn't need to have brakes. For a car that is 'electric', I don't think that the sequential gearbox is so important, and you have done a great job with the hybrid drive system in this model.

@BRabbit - unfortunately, as Ninjabuilder mentioned, it looks like that particular piece is no longer available on the Lego Pick a Brick webpage. Lego changes which pieces are available from time to time. I bought enough to make enough stands for 8 series of the Collectable Minifigs (16 per series), but now that we have surpassed 8 series I don't have enough of those pieces to make any more stands either. There are a few alternative pieces that could be used, but the design might have to change a little bit to accommodate them. Try searching Bricklink to see if you can find something at a decent price. I'm thinking about changing mine to 2 rows per step so that I use less of the curved pieces, but I don't know what happens if Lego makes more than 16 series (that's 256 different Minifigs). Maybe I'll switch to the shadow box idea that some other people have done as it would save some space.

Hi Moz Nice cabinet that you have there I have always liked the idea of 'moving' furniture. Where does the front working surface go when you close it up? Is it hinged, and just fold up, or is it a separate piece that you have to remove and store somewhere? Which plastic containers are you using? Back home I was using Fischer containers, which look similar to yours. One thing that I learned a long time ago is that houses aren't square - the floors and walls are wavy, and sometimes the rooms are trapezoids rather than rectangles, so you always have to measure every dimension to be sure.