Redimus

The Mk1s will be fine, my 7 wide Pullmans are 50+ studs long, and are fine round the bends. However, if you want to make the Mk1 look a bit more 'right', I'd recommend tapering the lower half of the coach, and replacing the inset doors with some details to show they are doors (simulation door handles, actual hinges (obviously not working, but they'll help make it obvious it's a door), etc). As for the loco it's self, I'd recommend replacing the cones for the whistle with single round stud plates, and looking into lowering the chimney a bit somehow. The top of the A1s were always pretty restricted thanks to how big the locos are, and Tornado is actually a tad shorter than the original design (mostly through the cab being slightly lower) thanks to modern safety rules for running under the wires. EDIT! Looking at it again, I'm not sure the larger wheels will fit under the foot plate. If you're planning to use Big Ben's XL wheels, the flanges are 2 or 3mm deep, it doesn't look like you have that much space under the footplate.

I modded 2 HEs to include the Jacobs bogie between the two sets as well, and it's great until you encounter points. Anything but the most basic option for points *will* cause derailment. If you get two basic sets and leave them as is, you'll probably be fine though.

Until he's worked out on which direction he wants to go, he might as well just get a current set and see where it takes him (it's what I did). A couple of 9v era sets are both comparable in quality and price to current sets, but most older sets are objectively nowhere near as good as anything available now, and cost a lot more to get one in a decent enough condition.

Assuming it's still out in your area, have you considered 60098 (Heavy Haul Train, http://shop.lego.com...Listing=listing)? Personally, I think it's a much nicer and more realistic looking loco than 60052 (although I'm biased by the fact that I am European, and when sat next to the Mearsk loco, 60052's loco looks awful). The wagons are pretty much 50/50 between the sets, they both have one wagon with a daft load, but I feel that overall 60098 just wins it because the ore wagon is a really fun build. Anyway, for me it goes like this: Best loco: 60098 60052 Best looking rolling stock: 60098 60051 60052 Best track options: 60052 (only one to include points) = 60051/60098 (just a plain loop of track) Best trackside: 60052 (unloading depot with overhead crane thing, forklift and small truck) 60098 (mineral unloading rotating crane, level crossing, digger and helicopter (technically intended as loads)) 60051 (level crossing and very pathetic station platform) Overall, it's tossup between 60052 and 60098 for me, and while I favour '98, I think '52 has the edge on value for money, especially if you have no existing track to add it to.

It's that simple? Cool.

I've recently picked up the 12v controller and a signal set, and intend to pick up some lamps too. I really like both the look and the way they are controlled. I also love the way it's all controlled from one central control unit. So here's my question: Has anybody either modified the innards of the 12v controller to drive 9v or modified 12v motors and controller to rail wires to run without the central rails? I'm keeping my mind pretty open at the moment, just looking for ideas that (with the minimum of modifying aging mechanisms) that would allow me to use any part of the 12v system on a more modernly powered layout. Worst case scenario, I'll just use the controller as a signalbox and nothing more, it's still pretty cool. :)

Pfft, 7wide... all the way! lol I recommend you download Lego Digital Designer (LDD - link), it gives you virtual access to most of the modern Lego bits, which allows you to experiment without the expensive process of making sure you already have the bits first. Try and set some form sort of standards (height of the buffer beam, average width, a roughly what height you want the roof of this and later trains to be), so that it'll not look too out of place with either the trains you already have or (if like me, you want to go with something other than the Lego Standards) the trains you'll build later on. Trust me, your first loco *will* look a little rubbish compared to latter efforts, but at least if it follows some standard measurements, it might not look completely out of place next to future projects. Also, another advantage of LDD is that you can easily share you work in progress designs with the rest of the community so they can tinker with it and help you find solutions. Never be afraid to post in here when you're stuck on something or stuck for ideas, these guys are brilliant at this stuff, and it's helped me no end.

If it's any consolation, they won't get to the making money out of it stage, no train, ever does... :(

That thing is astonishing.

Hey guys, as yet I have no characters who can blow up silver objects, but I have a couple of vehicles. Here's the thing though, they don't. At all. I can't fathom how to make them do it. I don't know if I'm being really stupid, if the aim is so poor that they simply can't lock on to the items, or if there's a bug with the version I have (PS3). Anyone got any ideas or solutions?

That's a shame, because you pulled a really good minikit sized 08, lol.

I too would be interested in the LDD of this, I think my dad would get a real kick out of it.

How many drivers?!? lol

First colour (after the grey 'base coat' unveiling colour), that she wore. It's the colour BR tried out for express locomotives before settling on Brunswick Green.

I think the biggest issue you'd have with the direct ball coupling is it won't clear Lego curves. My Q-class uses 2 sets of ball joint connected together. It's never had any issues with disconnecting under loads (certainly no load the loco it's self could actually pull) and fits happily around any curves I try, and on any manner of uneven track (which is particularly important when you risk lifting the conducting wheels off the track with a more rigid coupling).

How do you attach the buffer to the lego?

I've bought and build a few Megabloks sets, and there are some really useful pieces that Lego does not yet do. Has anybody done custom piece files for LDD to represent any Megablock specific parts, and is there anybody on Bricklink who actually stocks Megabloks? The way I design my customs (LDD > physical prototype if needed > more LDD > Bricklink supplemented by own collection) makes it difficult to include the potentially very useful pieces, so it'd be brilliant if I could include them in this process. Also, if this is the wrong forum, please move it, I had a quick look and couldn't find anywhere more appropriate.

I have to say that I like the simplicity of 9V direct from the rails. It is also by far the easiest way to power the generally smaller British steam locos I want to build. Once you've got enough track, the motors are not too expensive (£20-30), but you do have to spend a fair initial outlay to get started.

Wider than standard curves but not too sweeping because of space considerations.It's hard to say for certain because I don't have the exact measurements and the layout's current set up won't be it's final one. Like everyone else I would also be interested in the more sensible points (hell, a version of the current ones with the cut off point earlier like normal model railway points would do!). In all honesty though, while I would certainly consider any and all alternatives to plain lego track, I'm not the kind of person you can bank on for a sale because I don't know (yet) exactly what it is I want to achieve.

What would the Width of a full circle of R120 be? I'm guessing quit large. This project interests me (ME seem to be taking a very long time to get around to releasing anything to people who didn't catch the Kickstarter) but I suspect my needs don't fit yours and it'd be another project that passed me by. Still, I'll watch this with interest. Edit: That said, I'd be very interested in the half length straits.

I know, I know... I'm on it! lol

That looks really good.

Huzzah! We have finished Pullman! I'm now thinking about the next coach, but before ordering the parts, I've decided to have a second go at the brake end, not sure it's much more accurate, but I think it looks a little better than my first attempt (new version is the end on the left).

Soooooon......

Hmm, that's true. I've also just noticed the two guard area windows aren't the same height, will have to sort that out, lol.