John Daniels

You put my plans with the cab into words. Thanks Alasdair! I completely agree! I'm not sure what happened when I used Sariel's scaler before, but when I made another image and typed in the dimensions it gave me the proper scale. Thanks Ingmar!

Thanks guys! Now that you mention it, I can see it. I should be able to solve that when I fix the cabins dimensions. I should be able to fulfill your appetite for something new... The way it is designed now, I can only fit 4 rows in the grill, to be accurate there needs to be 5. So back to the drawing board! Thanks for the link , I already pulled some inspiration from it! I can't help but agree with you there, Lego did an excellent job on the 42043, but I am going to try and redesign the grill. Here's hoping that I can top Lego . I sure can, I'll throw them into the next update - since I will have my camera out anyway. For sure, I've been at this for 2 months at the least. I have the new scale; 1:16.7, I can't believe how much work that took Thanks for your help Ingmar! ~John

Thanks Ingmar, I completely agree with what you said about finding incorrectly scaled sections, and I am really looking forward to tackling the problem area and putting it right! The scale very well may be off, there were a lot of variables in getting that number. I'll take a look into it for sure, and I appreciate having your scale to tire combination as a reference point.

First off I would like to thank you all for your comments! And now, as promised, I would like to present the newest additions to my Arocs build, the front bumper and the cabin. #4 #5 #6 #7 Cabin; For the cabin I have chosen the StreamSpace L-cab, which is the second largest cabin available for the Arocs line of vehicles. The real cabin has a length of 2.3 meters and a width of 2.5 meters. I used Sariel's excellent "Model Scaler" and "Wheels Chart" to find the approximate dimensions of the cabin. So a big thanks to you Sariel! Using the Scaler tool I found that the models scale, using these wheels is 1:12.5 1:16.7. The cabin is still very much a WIP. I have quite a bit of work left to do. As I discovered during the process of making the blueprint overlay image above, namely, my dimensions are slightly off. The top of the cabin needs to come down by one stud, and the roof needs to move back by a couple of studs. Bumper; As for the front bumper I am trying to incorporate as many of the distinctive details and angles as possible. I am having trouble fitting in the smaller light that goes on the inner side of the main headlight. Apart from that the bumper is coming along nicely. I look forward to what you guys have to say. Have a great day, John P.S. Link to my flickr page added to my signature. Edit; Slashed out the incorrect scale and added in the proper scale.

I was starting to get bored with all of these Porsche threads, to the point where I just skip over them. When I saw that you were the poster I had to give it a look, as your creations are usually top notch. I wasn't disappointed. The looks are great, and the transmission and the suspension/steering geometry are the icing on the cake. Well done Thirdwigg!

At the suggestion of Horace T, I shortened the wheelbase of my Arocs build and it helps quite a bit with the proportions. #2 #3 Besides shortening the wheelbase I have also added on the mudguards, fuel tank, exhaust gas after treatment system, front bumper, and a couple more engine details. During the process of shortening the wheelbase I discovered a way to lock the end of the chassis. If you look closely at photo #1 you can see that the inner frame rails aren't attached to anything, thus creating weakness in the chassis. Now the inner frame rails attach to the outer rails using the perpendicular pin and pin hole connector. This creates a rigid connection at the end of the chassis which increases the rigidity of the chassis as a whole even further. In regards to the side detailing I feel that the front mudguards could use some improvement, and possibly the fuel tank. On the other hand, I am really pleased with how the EuroVI exhaust system cover came out. I'd love to hear what you guys have to say. Thanks, John P.S. The next update will include the front bumper and, if all goes well, the cabin.

It looks to be the perfect scale, the problem is that the engine bay is missing everything that feeds/cools/filters/etc. add those in and it will be perfect. Really top notch work Effe! edit: removed irrelevant part of quote.

Thank you, hopefully I will be able to give an update every couple of weeks. I can only imagine! I would be thrilled to see an Arocs up close and personal. Thanks for the tip on the wheelbase, it won't take more than a few minutes to change to the proper length. That is one of the strenghs of the chassis, the length is easily adjustable. Thanks again, John

As the title states I am building a to scale MB Arocs. My goal is to faithfully recreate the chassis, axles, cabin, and other details. #1 I will brake down each section of the build bellow. Frame; Just like the frame in the true Arocs, my frame consists of two parallel beams that flare out at the front, while having a minimal number of cross members. This was actually one of the hardest parts of the build so far. I went through many different designs, each one failing to provide the proper amount of rigidity, or being overly large. After a few weeks of tinkering and experimenting I finally stumbled upon the design that you see above. It consists of two rows, one horizontal and one vertical. Through the liberal use of connectors the two are connected, and thus create an exceptionally strong and compact chassis. Which is resistant to compression and stretching, while allowing a certain amount of torsional rotation, just like the real Arocs frame! Axles / Suspension; I have endeavored to recreate the axles used in the Arocs, therefore the truck is suspended on leaf springs. The rear axle follows the design of the original, with dual links stabilizing the bottom of the axles, and shared leaf springs; regrettably I have not been able to realize the triangulated upper links. Even though I plan to yet again redesign the axles so that they include this link. The front axle to a lot of work to find a design that was compact, allowed me to include leaf springs, and also utilized the linked steering system of the real Arocs, in the end I prevailed and was able to create a simple and reliable set of front axles. Each of the front axles is suspended on it's own set of leaf springs, but they are connected together to create a reactive suspension system. Engine; The engine is a compact I6 with - for the moment - minimal detailing. I hope that you have enjoyed this glimpse into the design process of one of my MOC's. Updates will most likely be scarce, as work is a little crazy right now. Comments, questions, and criticism, are all welcome. Thanks, John Edit: Added numbering to the photo.

The number of functions in such a tiny package is astonishing, and not only that, but the wrapping looks pretty nice as well!

Your reviews never dissapoint, your photos really are amazing! Thanks for giving us a taste of the experience.

I was just contemplating buying a second Arocs the other day, and the price drop to $174 just shoved me over the edge. It should be here around the 7th

Very nice, Nick! What a beautiful rendition of a beautiful car. Now I really want to go and build something.

I am thoroughly impressed, your transmission runs very smoothly, and you were able to create the proper shifting mechanism. Great job! To embed a video you just have to remove the "s" from "https," and it should look like this: Edit: It looks like Didumos69 beat me to it in regards to the video, and he provided an example of the code.

A little late to the party, but I will throw in my support for the hot water trick. Even running them under the tap on hot for 5-10 seconds is sufficient.

I'm glad that I could help Now all you need is a little bit of practice! I have been using gimp for a couple of years now (on and off), and there are still little problems that I run into, even though I could probably fix most of those with a proper lighting setup.

Always a pleasure watching you build, the amount of patience that you possess is awe inspiring. I look forward to your continued progress!

I would suggest that you take a look at Sariel's Photo Processing Tutorial, it really helped me get started with gimp. And it is about 50x faster, once you have edited a few pictures

I use plastic drawer units from Akro-Mills, they seem to be of pretty high quality. When I first purchased them I had to remove some extra plastic on 10% of the drawers, which was left over from the molding process. Now all of the drawers slide smoothly. Here is a link; Akro-Mills.com I use the 26 and 44 drawer units. I'm not sure if they are available across the pond, but I highly recommend them.

I was really looking forward to this from the WIP picture(s?) alone, and it sure doesn't disappoint! The level of detail that you are able to achieve is absolutely amazing. A joy to look at! John

I don't know off hand, but it is easy enough to figure out with a voltage meter on ohms setting and any pf motor lead.

The extra stud of clearance is already built into the model. The lift arm is actually supposed to be placed another hole down into the outrigger foot. It is an extraordinarily common mistake, which I made as well. Your suspension mod looks great by the way!

That is highly likely, at the very least I have the exterior of the paddle shift box built, as accurately as possible from the limited photo's.

I gave 2x4 liftarms a try, and it doesn't look like they work, and neither do 5/4 length liftarms, you almost need a 4.5 length liftarm for it to work..

You are correct Lipko, I built a quick mock up, just to see how the door mechanism works around it all. And it all sits under the changeover catch. I still find it strange that they used a changeover catch instead of a two length liftarm, since the square side of the catch is slightly shorter than one stud. So there is extra slop.