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Toastie

Eurobricks Grand Dukes
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Everything posted by Toastie

  1. Hello @maehw, I believe this may be not that successful, but who knows. @evank did the scanning of the book, which, if I recall correctly, was sent to him by Helmut Albrecht, one of the authors. Back then, Helmut was high school teacher and later became Professor at the University of Education, Schwaebisch Gmuend. I have been in contact with Helmut last year and this year, a very nice individual. He tried to find stuff related to TC Controller and LEGO Technic Control in general - to no avail. They had issues with water damage to their building/s etc. Helmut also contacted Herbert Hödl - but again, all TC stuff they had (and that was a lot) seems to be lost. Herbert has retired since long, Helmut retired recently and has a long list of non-LEGO related activities. I then contacted LEGO dacta customer service and told them the entire story with reference to EB etc. They actually replied and told me to be patient, as they wanted to inquire at LEGO Archives in Denmark. Evan and I were particularly interested in the TC Controller software as well as PASCAL code implementation, as discussed in the reference book. TC Controller provides, as the LEGO Interface in combination with #9771 and TC Logo, PWM control. Well, what should I say: TLG decided that it is not possible to release any further information or even software from their archives due to patent and NDA regulations. Wow. That software is from <1990 ... about 35 years ago. And at that point, we "gave up" - if you have more success, please report here! All the best, Thorsten
  2. I completely agree on this. I am in the same boat and used ESP32's and even Vroom boards for far less demanding tasks than yours - programmed using the Arduino IDE or the VS Code IDE with the platformio plugin. This is simply brilliant, @LabManager! Best wishes, Thorsten
  3. Heehee - me too - this very morning! For €80 from a BL seller located in Northern Germany ... we'll see "what" actually arrives He camouflaged the interface as "electric programmable" - never ever expected it there, I mean, it is electric, but not programmable - only to realize that the "Code Pilot Bar Code Sheet, laminated, 2 sided (paper size A3)" is listed in that category as well. I guess I am too narrow-minded Well, I don't like to play with smart devices that much - born a couple of years before the ARPANET was invented, I like to play with 8- or 16-bit machines running QBASIC programs, I love CP/M and MS-DOS <4.0. Well, the programming is much more comfortable on a modern laptop with DOS emulation, but then I copy the programs to the real machines. So if all goes well, I shall code a QBASIC/QuickBASIC program for that beautiful machine ... and then run it on my IBM XT. As that one has no HD installed, the program length is a bit limited, but then 100kByte of compiled QuickBASIC code represents a sheer endless litany of code lines and subroutines This is going to be fun! All the best, Thorsten
  4. Wow, how cool is this!!! Thank you very much for sharing and walking through the installation process, @BatteryPoweredBricks. Also, very nice video! And congratulations to @diegobaca - simply incredible work. I don't have an Interface B - these are for sure excellent pieces of LEGO engineering. Too bad, they forgot how to make such fantastic electronic devices All the best, Thorsten
  5. Welcome to the club @maehw! Your diagram is marvelous - I can't find anything wrong. Thank you for your effort!!! Just recently I though trying the "modern computer link to 9750" with a Bluetooth-2-USB adapter, these HC-05 (or HC-06) thingies. Works like a charm. All you need in addition is an Arduino - this time I used a Pro Mini, which essentially is a Nano without USB port, as the HC-05 does that. I made an ugly socket to connect both - this way I can use them for other things as well. The Pro Mini gets nicely conditioned 9V from #9750; I just soldered two wires +9V and GND to unused pins 2 and 4 of the 20 pin socket of the Interface A - the Pro Mini has a 5V regulator on board and supplies that to the HC-05. The nice thing is: Wherever you place the #9750 box with the BT extension, you can access it from your computer, as the HC-05 just becomes another COM port visible in device manager BT after pairing. Then edit the DOSBox-X config file in the serial section, it all works: More here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Toastie Will post that in the next weeks along with an updated QBASIC program. All the best and have fun! Thorsten
  6. Lawsuits, the final frontier ... Well, I hope, truly hope, that The LEGO Company, or The LEGO Group, or LEGO, The One and Only, actually rolls out better sets than the competition does. That is all there is. Don't tell me about ethics and costs. Just get - dammit - better. And simply cut the cost saving crap arguments. Should these apply, well then, goodbye. TLG is not a religion, it is a for-profit, totally for profit oriented company. As any company is, in a for profit-oriented world. What a surprise. In this world, lawsuits >sometimes< work. Generally, simply being better, even if otherwise "unlawful" copying is happening, assures success. Just be better. And don't wine so much. Rock on, Thorsten
  7. I know We collaborate with some of the folks making them. This dissolution is nevertheless a somewhat matter of (currently little) concern, as the stuff added dissolves within the battery to presumably - and in my world hopefully - something not causing any harm some years down the road. Or as they call it - in the long run . Well, we'll see ... so far, resurrection of apparently dead LiPos is of central concern in this discussion. Good night and all the best, Thorsten
  8. That is all cool and nice, but this is for "many years storage". Not "6 months not used". However, 6 months without charging it from time to time and having a circuit that is constantly sucking current, well, will drain the LiPo on that timescale. It always depends on the circuit of course. Some need more than others. No idea what the BW sucks, when turned "off". Partial charging (well, better close to full, but not fully full ;) is one good thing to do when storing a LiPo. But the most important thing though is getting it off from any circuitry. In reasonably well-designed devices, actually "inside" reasonably well-designed LiPos, there is always a protection circuit preventing deep discharging, overloading etc. I just arbitrarily visited GitHub for some info: https://github.com/xlfe/conservative-lipo-protection. That's also (very small) electronics usually hidden under some wrapping foil around the otherwise ugly LiPo cells, but once the thing tripped due to deep discharging, you need to know how to resurrect it - and @Zerobricks is at it, I guess Best, Thorsten
  9. Nice that it worked! However, there is no "killing". There is chemistry going on inside a LiPo. Or in any battery/rechargeable. A true one-way battery delivers voltage and thus current as long as chemical redox reactions inside that thing find a way to get to a lower state of energy/entropy. When that chemistry is finally happy, i.e., it is at thermodynamic equilibrium, the battery is usually considered "dead". Which is nonsense - such a battery has found chemical peace. Rechargeables are essentially the same thing, but the chemistry inside is reversible. "Charging" means driving the chemistry to one equilibrium, i.e., the charged state. Draining it means driving the chemistry to - well - the "drained" equilibrium. Batteries don't allow you to reverse the redox reaction system, which is, from a chemistry cost standpoint, cheap: Trash them. Chemicals used inside rechargeables are comparably "expensive"; but need some attention It appears as if your storage state was something in between the two extremes of equilibrium: "Allowed fully loaded" and "allowed empty", which is >not< zero Volts, but something well above zero. Deciding on "allowed" versus "not" is the task of "electronics" ... when that electronics was designed as: "X Volt is bad", the "thing" will just play dead, and not allowing charging the LiPo. But the LiPo is certainly not "dead", it is out of (self-defined) safety specs. Best regards, Thorsten
  10. Hey! Don't get me started :D - I am happily using Windows since Win 3.0 was introduced. And before that, I jumped on board with DOS 3.0. And yes, I have no clue, what I am doing right. It crashed back in the days now and then, but later, it simply worked - I may have used it without my men-in-black-sunglasses My last blue screen is win-millennia away ... Whatever (believe me, I have 500% Mac, 200% Linux, and 400% C++ totally convinced absolute freaks (i.e., very nice individuals I have very much fun with) in my research group). They also happen to reinstall this and that from time to time - I never reinstalled Win - I fixed it - somehow). Maybe being a chemist helps - we ... try out things, and claim of course it worked, when it worked. And don't talk about it, when not. Now, what is going on here: It would be very helpful to learn about the different scenarios. One is: LiPo charged half-megablocks, put away for months, attempting to recharge then and . No way to resurrect it. What else? LiPo fully charged, put away for months - ??? It would be helpful to know exactly when your charging/resurrection of the BW did not work anymore. Are there any phantom currents, when the BW is turned off? No. There are real currents! It has to recognize the "on" button, when the charger is applied, all that. So the thing listens, what's happening on its in/outputs - and that needs some current to flow. After months, the LiPo is totally drained, should there be no totally drained protection, as virtually every LiPo circuity should have. LiPos don't like to be drained to zero - or better below a certain level. Should these BW folks forgot about that: Screw them. Which does not help at all. But: Totally drowned LiPos can be resurrected; you need to disconnect them from the BW circuitry though and then treat them nicely. Here is one link, don't blame me, if that does not work: https://www.instructables.com/Restoring-over-discharged-LiPo-Lithium-Polymer-bat/ This is all pure speculation - I don't have a BW. But I have devices discharging below the critical level, if unattended. Should BW folks talk about this issue: For sure! But don't simply trash otherwise nicely designed systems, as I will never abandon MS Folks, here is to feeling good: Best, Thorsten
  11. Welcome to EB! No, you did not. Well, sort of not. Hmm, who really cares about strictly "not", I certainly don't. Not in this forum, I believe. Someone may notice the blurred studs in your photographs This is a nice motor you are using! Are there any issues with the friction of the gear when using different makes and models of switch points? Or do you manipulate these as well, as I do? All the best, and thanks for sharing, Thorsten
  12. And I bet, you will be not only granted entry to the heavens, but surely be complimented in ... and then maybe asked how to fix the burnt motors of His train layout, who knows ... Have fun and all the best, Thorsten
  13. @jacey98penny Sometimes a link tells more than a thousand words, sometimes - well - not. As per usual: It depends. Do you want to control your "setup" = various hubs/trains/whatever (let's call these servers) from one device (let us refer to that as client)? In other words, the servers are all the PoweredUp hubs, the client is a controlling program/device. Or do you prefer individually operating smart devices, running on their own? I believe @Lok24 is touching on the latter, whereas @lego3057 refers to the former. In an exhibition, I'd rather connect from one controlling client to all the servers; this would render the synchronization of all devices more reliable. And in this case, I'd go with @lego3057 suggestion, and use the BAP code, you can download at the website addressed by that link he provided: Easy hub sign up and very nice control. Using this software, you are not restricted to any number of hubs signing-up, other than imposed by your hardware. Yes, this needs a computer to operate all servers, but you have a nice and clean user interface and a rather stable connection means. In a show, all the numerous cell phones, and other BLE devices around may cause some interferences, but that is exactly the same for any other BLE client/server connection, be it the PoweredUp app or the referenced BAP software. With PyBricks you can create self-contained programs, not suffering from heavy BLE traffic - as well as BLE communication type controls (e.g. using the PUp remote), but that can BAP do as well. And then both a prone to heavy BLE traffic interference - to be expected at shows. I'd say: Try it out! Best regards, Thorsten
  14. Well, that is true. However, I was in a similar situation, when inquiring about a LEGO 9771 ISA card in the Technic forum, encouraged by another EB member to do so. And it worked, although the member I then got in touch with, wasn't here for years. The whole thing resulted in a free 9771 ISA card for me; covering S&H was all that member was asking for. PM is also one route that may work - should notifications still be active for that member and the email address still be in use. Who knows ... I would not give up right away. Good luck, @GlennH! Cross my fingers. Best, Thorsten
  15. I am disqualified making any comments on this machine - other than loving what it can do - LEGO Technic wise. This is in a so many levels above my league. However all these very nice System bricks in a Technic MOC, giving it - what it deserves. And not only that, adding to the technical functionality. For me, this is LEGO Technic. The LEGO part includes everything TLG makes, the Technic part makes the functions. Well both do/aid - hmm I am confused ... but wait: Technic is LEGO, System is LEGO, electronics is LEGO ... yes, this makes the difference ... Your model is beyond anything, I can comprehend, but to me, it is the perfect way of doing Technic. Thank you very much for sharing! All the best, Thorsten
  16. Hmmm. On professional for pay software - yeah. On a project like this one [which I found and find simply mind-blowing, particularly when looking back (in this thread) at the light speed pace, this was developed by @Cosmik42], all the "could be", "would be", "what could possibly go wrong", etc. issues are certainly not in forefront programming focus. Now, foreseeing that a potential user has BT radio off when using BLE devices also needs some "imagination" ... believe me - I am no. 1 in line for such failures, but when I find out, I usually slap my head (hard) to get my brain into the clear. It's like calling Comcast, and they ask you: "Well, did you double-check that you turned your device on?" Or even better: "Is it plugged in?" I guess it is more like: If you don't know what you are doing, do it anyway, but don't blame others if it does not work (rather than sloppy programming) ... Here is to SP (sloppy programming) - I am in! All the best, and keep it rolling, Thorsten
  17. No, I don't. I joined EB in 2010 - so missed the debut. Unfortunately. I am older though - or better old BUT. This is a Technic wonder. Really impressive. I am not into cars, or skiing - but so much more into "machines". Wow, all that functionality, so well-thought-out! Mostly I love the progressing with time - just leaving TLG behind (PF is dead - BUY PUp(!), nothing will work anymore) and embracing superior 3rd party electronics - AND keeping it all compatible. This is so my world of LEGO. The "spreadsheet" alone makes me smile, feeling good, and having fun. Wow. I am really taken away and a bit speechless. OK, composed this blurb now, but ... And just to rub it in: The System bricks you used for this Technic MOC makes - again - all the difference for me. No machine gun fire holes, nice slopes, the fence elements ... and so on and so forth. LEGO at its best (aka the best of both worlds, which are not two but one world, in my opinion). Thank you so much for sharing this decade long development. As said, so well-thought-out. All the best, Thorsten
  18. Hi, don't really know where you want to go with this; as a "project" that you chose (right?), you certainly should have a focus - if so, what would you personally like to focus on? As I don't know what the format of this project will be (written report, if so, approximately how many pages; other formats?), it is hard to make any suggestions ... If it were any piece of written work, the introduction could assess the topic "LEGO: Building vs collecting". This topic alone can fill uncountable pages, but you could tailor your introduction towards your "Design and Technology" task. What readily comes to mind in that regard is: "Space, the final frontier (James T. Kirk, 1966)" ... But there is more, there always is ... "All the things I could do, If I had a little money (ABBA, 1976)" - and so on and so forth ... All the best, Thorsten
  19. And as per usual: Tipping hat, a slight nod, and a very deep bow. Incredible, what you have accomplished. As said, per usual; when you post, I don't click right away on the thread/link. No, I relax a bit, make myself comfortable, maybe a Scotch, maybe a Northern Germany beer. Get this and that out of the way on my desk ... and then, just let it flow. Others have said what should be said. Thank you very much for sharing! With very best regards, Thorsten
  20. Oh, and that is absolutely fine with me - they don't have to, though. Technic nowadays looks much "cleaner" - as was pointed out before (with studs adversely affecting the looks). I have the impression (and that may be totally wrong) that this happened because the main theme of Technic went from "machines" to "cars" - not right, but maybe to sets, that require cleanliness rather than function. Yes, I know, you can have all the functions you want with studless Technic, and the gearbox inside such a set in (to me) a miracle, but I can't really see it in operation. You will have to use quite some panels to cover the "exposure-to-prolonged-machine-gun-fire" look when using all these beams for the "hull" of these machines. Which is also fine with me! I just can't adapt to that concept (of making Technic display super cars); I like building Technic "machinery" that does something to the extent that studs don't even come into focus, although they are there. I yes, this is my personal view, this is the world of moccing and not of making as much money as you can. And I am also aware, that virtually nobody in this forum finds any of my stuff appealing at all! So - all is good! Best, Thorsten P.S.: I tried to be - hmm - a little provocative with the post you referenced, so no offense! P.P.S: Just purchase on eBay a used #8485 set - with still working (!) flex system elements - there is no better Technic set than the fully studded dinosaur attached to control center II roaring on my desk ... in my opinion
  21. Oh yes ... "Technic" 4.5V lights can do the same magic - and match very well with the 4.5V train section ... @Andy Glascott: This is so incredibly nice. I have copied your pictures, enlarged them and just sat there and enjoyed every detail ... All the best, Thorsten
  22. Yes, they use gases, but not so much specialized liquids (other than highly volatile liquids = be careful). As far as I can tell, they don't like chemicals at all (as you already pointed out) but much so (very) dry conditions. It is not the low temperature killing mold (they more so fall asleep), but "no water" available. At low temperatures, generally, the water content in the surrounding >air< is low (but upon freezing it condenses, on surfaces, which could be the affected paper as well). If the freezer is not tightly sealed, more water enters and condenses on surfaces - and upon defrosting the "object" may get wet again. Dry conditions are thus pivotal, as "molds" hate that, but it is not that easy to get there if no suitable environment is available. Does not help much, I know, but the "freezer" was catching my attention ... Best, Thorsten
  23. Here we go, studded Technic wise ... And make that in all Technic studless whatever technique ... I love the combination of all LEGO systems. Best, Thorsten
  24. OK, it is what it is, but when I am posting in that forum (my electronics stuff virtually nobody is interested in, and that is totally OK), my "MOCs" are certainly not to any scale, but are Mindstorms related. Which is Thomas' truck as well, isn't it? Besides a nice enclosure, there is some advanced electronics at work here. But: It is up to Thomas, of course. Thank you very much for taking your time responding, highly appreciated! Best, Thorsten
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