dr_spock

Sometimes it is just simpler and quicker to make it yourself than wait for LEGO or somebody else to come out with something you require for your build to work.

Do you have a picture or two of your wiring setup? Which types of wires are you using?

GBC at Bricks in the Six convention:

Super simple inexpensive 2 channel radio control substitute for PF IR receiver and remote. It was under $10 CAD. Could also work with the PU motors if the proper PU connectors are used. Wire to PU connector pins 1 & 2. Function like dumb motor on/off. Disclaimer: It will not pass the purity test.

There are many ways to re-profile wheels.

The Emerald Night building instructions specifies a PF XL motor. I connected the PU hub to the PF XL motor with a DIY PU to PF cable. You could probably stuff a PU L motor in there too and use all PU components.

Hmmm...

My copies of the coins on sprue have the numbers raised like the LEGO side. Also there is no "14" on the center of the sprue on the LEGO side. I got them back in 2009 with the Pirate Loot Island set.

LEGO would put the registered trademark symbol on their red logo on the box.

3D prints could be sealed with a sealant. It can be trickly to make them air or water tight. If you print in ABS, you could try an acetone vapour bath to smooth out and fuse the layer lines. Milling them out of a block of material like plastic or aluminum could be another option.

Use a PU App math function block to compare the value of the button to the no press value. When no press condition true, then use a random block to select which end point the motor to go to.

Probably shouldn't say how bad it is so that some competitors will think everyone think it is great and try to beat LEGO to market with their copy of the set based off the leaked pics.

I don't know about 10020. I came across some LBG pieces in the 10030 Star Destroyer when building it. They were used on the inside of the structure. I think 10030 and 10020 were produced during the transistion.

Not that I am aware of. Bricklink can show a list of stores in my state. I read through the term and conditions of those stores to see which offer local pickup. Some are helpful mentioning their city and pick up location in the T&Cs. Otherwise, I have to message them if they have something I want. I guess handing over cash for little plastic bags can be a bit suspicious. Some times shopping mall security drives by.

It seems to have the style of a larger CITY theme crane set. I think it'll go well in one's CITY layout.

I buy from local sellers that offer local pickup. I meet them somewhere like a public parking lot. I'd inspect the goods before handing over the cash. Some times there are weird looks from people passing by but it saves on shipping costs.

Depending on your budget, LEGO SHOP@HOME has them. You can get free shipping (and VIP points) if your order reaches the threshold.

Interesting, didn't notice that before about the reflectiveness of neon yellow. It appears not to be as shiny as the darker colours. What did they put into its mixture?

I use the PAB wall and LUGBULK for MOCs. I don't have a formula. That's too much math.

Theoretically it is feasible with a STM32 microcontroller hardware programmer. Whether the firmware will work is another question since they may not use the same addresses for their IO devices, support chips, etc. Also the STM32 in the Mindstorm has more memory. Depending of its firmware size, it may not fit the one in the Technic hub. It would be interesting to see someone try. Be sure to make a backup of the firmware first.

Sounds like broken wires if it works wiggle one way and not the other.

MOCing is hard work. Commissioning someone to design and build something to your liking is an option.

Unfortunately, one can't drink beer out of the boxes like one can do with the cups.

Or make an adapter to go between the PU hub and motor to fool the hub that it has the train motor connected to it.

You can measure them with a caliper to verify the difference.