aminnich

I got done reading that… and then went to Facebook. The fake model popped up as an ad. How is that legal?! I bet LEGO got word about the fake and said screw that, we aren’t releasing this. Im sure the LEGO designers aren’t too happy about these third party guys.

I bring up the question since it is shown in the video thumbnail... is forestry equipment considered construction?

TC11: the battle bots had a 45x45x45 bounding limit. I remembered that was in a “stored” position. I’m not sure if you will need to be specific like that for this contest.

I am modifying 2legoornot2lego’s lowboy trailer to move a heavy load. I am having an issue with the suspension on the axle not being nearly strong enough. All axles bottom out right away. In my opinion there is no reason to have suspension if it is just going to bottom out like that. I’m wondering if anyone has recommendations to stiffen the suspension to handle the load.

Very cool, thank you!

Either would be great to have access to.

I’m curious if you have all of your files somewhere public?

I have no experience with the cheap 3D printers on the market today. I have read some good reviews about them, but I have no idea what kind of print tolerance it gives. Mine is a mid grade printer, cost about $850. It prints really nice, but it did struggle on the small LEGO stuff. I have to mess with the program and settings to try for a better print in the future. If you are looking to print really high tolerance parts, I don’t know that I would recommend a cheap printer.

So I bought the printer in March and decided to mess with printing custom-ish LEGO this past week. I printed part number 6571 without the extra ball joint. I modeled it in SolidWorks and printed on my Prusa MK3s+ using Hatchbox filament. After printing a batch of 20 "good" parts... I found a mistake and will be reprinting.

I think if you are changing other components to be more to accurate to the real machine, the overall width of the model should be changed. But if you are able to get more machine components into the model with the extra 4 studs of width (more accurate ripper movement) then I think the extra width is justified.

I just got done building step 5 twice, I was given a yellow 7L beam instead of a 11L beam. No big deal, but wondering if anyone else ran into this?

I have not been in here for awhile... glad I came in to check out what is new. As always, excellent review Jim, you never disappoint! As for the model, I am buying this ASAP, great looking model for sure!

Looks like I have a lot of settings to mess around with when the printer is delivered. I better schedule a week off from work so I have time to dial in the machine

So printers dont supply a print tolerance? That sucks. Would be nice to know that for modeling a component. Ya well I had looked at resin printers, but I read that they smell awful and did not want that in my house haha. I am hoping that I do not need to print my models in half and glue together, that sounds like it could be a challenge to get right. Thanks for the tips! I wonder if there is a way to reduce that pressure when a layer is done being printed? Would reduce the amount of "blob" and help reduce the seam buildup. I will for sure look into moving the seam to a desired location when starting to print. Thanks!

Thanks for the advice. I knew that LEGO is made with ABS and the fumes are not something to mess with. I was also looking into PETG because of its strength, but I am worried about it's possible lack of flexibility. Something to try out I guess. The printer I ordered is an Anycubic Chiron. I will give the Polymaker filament a try, thanks for the suggestion. I read a little bit about the horizontal expansion. I will need to look further into it to really get a feel for it. Thanks for all the helpful tips! I am glad to see printing holes is not a huge issue, just takes some trial and error to get right. Also nice to see once you get it dialed in, repeatability is there. I use CAD for my work and work closely with the machine shop. I know all about tolerances and such. I figured machining tolerances are going to be a bit different than on a 3D printer, so I was planning on making my own chart for reference. This would be specifically for my printer, which by the way is a Anycubic Chiron. It has a print accuracy of 0.05-0.3 mm with a 0.4mm nozzle head. I may change that to a smaller nozzle if I get into higher precision stuff. How do you reduce the number of seams for a hole? I would think the number of seams is minimized by the number of layers, not? This printer would be used specifically for custom parts. I do not see any reason to print existing parts when bricklink.com is a thing haha