ArchieNov

I took mine out from storage and experienced the exact same thing. The clutch gears for both the turntable rotation and driving kept slipping. To be honest, this has always been my problem with Technic sets. I find that after a long time of being in storage, the amount of friction increases. I doubt it's due to dust since my sets are stored in plastic bins. I think it's more about the Lego plastic somewhat becoming less flexible and drier/more brittle over time. For example, the black technic friction pins feel so much harder to remove now than they did when I first built it. Anyway, I solved the issue by replacing those clutch gears entirely with standard connectors. It doesn't seem to stress the motors when I drive it, so I think it's fine to remove the clutches. On another note, one reason why I really like the 42100 set is that it's roughly minifig scale. So that means I can put it aside other minifig scale sets I have like the UCS AT-AT and Razor Crest to get a better sense of how big these vehicles really are.

In my case, I just replaced those 2L red axles at the side panel connection points with the 2L blue half pin/half axles. It does the trick of keeping the side panels flush with no wobble. It has the drawback of making it harder to detach the side panels though, but if you don't plan on removing those regularly, then it shouldn't be an issue.

I borrowed the great ideas on this thread and made my own simple versions of the cranes and door guns. Of course mine are nowhere near as nice as what you guys have made, but I'm pretty happy with them. It also allowed me to repurpose some of those builds that came with the recent Hoth Battle Pack. Door gun: I know people hate stud shooters, but I think these ones look nice and give extra bulk to the gun making it look more menacing Cranes: I wanted at least 4 because just having 2 didn't feel like the AT-AT could deploy troops quickly. I can also use these to lower the Speeder bikes or E-Web blasters. I think they are pretty discreet when folded up. Front grill under head. I decided to make the grill lines vertical instead of the horizontal. All the reference pictures I've seen on the AT-AT models show them as vertical Lastly, I added those boat studs to the back of the side laser cannons to cover it nicely. Looks much better than just leaving the anti-studs exposed.

In case anyone wants to see what I did, here are some close up pictures and a short explanation The first picture is the partially disassembled view while in the 2nd one, I've highlighted the areas where I've made changes. The parts encircled in red are new parts, while the ones in blue are existing parts that I just rearranged. There may be additional parts outside of these that are required to make the mod, but it is up to you what parts you want to use as these are mostly aesthetic. Blue areas: For the 7x3 angled technic liftarm on the upper leg, I just flipped it upside down so that there's no more restriction to bending the knees forward I moved that sloped brick assembly below the knee 1 stud up Red areas: You need to replace the liftarm that connects to the foot with a 7x3 angled version (same type as the one used in the upper leg) You also need to extend the lower leg by adding a 1x1 brick, plus a 1x2 technic brick with the 2 pin holes The other encircled parts are self-explanatory. These are what will give the hips and ankles their articulation when attached. Then here are close ups of the hip and ankles so you can see better how I connected them.

Thanks for the feedback! I will keep the legs long then :)

Hi everyone, I recently purchased the Lego Hoth AT-ST 75322 and just like other people, I was disappointed by the lack of meaningful poseability in the legs. This has always been the case for Lego AT-STs because of how top heavy the design is, and I keep hearing that the reason Lego fixes the leg positions because otherwise it won't be able to stand properly. And whenever I tried looking for Hoth AT-ST mods, they never address the leg poseability. However, I still wanted to have the ability to pose my AT-ST other than just standing next to my UCS AT-AT. And even though I have severely limited knowledge in building custom MODs and the different kinds of Lego parts available, I tried to see if I could indeed give my AT-ST the leg joints it deserves. And much to my surprise, I was actually able to do it with a few simple modifications using fairly common parts. I can now have my AT-ST in different poses such as walking, looking up/down, standing tall, crouching low, etc. And it has no problem holding its pose as the joints are stiff enough, especially in the ankles. As for how it looks, personally I think it's fine and looks better than the stock, even though I had to widen the thickness slightly at the shins. But of course that is subjective. If any of the more capable builders out there can improve upon my design, you are more than welcome. I just request that you kindly give me credit and share your improvements on the design with me so I can also learn from you. One thing I'm still undecided on is whether I should shorten the legs or not. In the video, I retained the height of the stock Lego Hoth AT-ST. But at that height, its head is coming out to be around 2 studs taller than the top of the UCS AT-AT's knee joint. Based on a size comparison chart I saw, it's only supposed to be as tall as the knee. So I tried shortening the legs in the picture below, but am not sure if this is more or less accurate to the actual model. Let me know if I should keep the legs as long as in the video, or make them as short as in the picture.

So is the insane demand for this thing finally starting to subside? I’ve been wanting to get one since last year but all our local suppliers and Lego stores couldn’t secure stock. Unfortunately the timing is not so good for me now so I’ll have to wait until around Xmas this year to get one. How long can I expect them to keep on producing this and do you think they’ll start giving some discounts on it sometime in the future?

Would WD40 work too? Is there any risk of damage to the parts?

It’s funny because I have the same problem. But it wasn’t always like this. When I first built it, the turntable was able to move without much trouble. But after leaving it untouched for about a year, it now has extreme difficulty in turning and often gets stuck. I even had the same issue with the outriggers. But that was easily solved by replacing the single blue friction pin with a non-friction one instead. Some have said that maybe dust is the issue, but I keep my stuff inside enclosed bins so I don’t think that’s the case. Batteries aren’t the problem either.

It looks good! I don't have a UCS Falcon (yet), but when I do I would like to build a stand like yours. Will you eventually share the instructions to create it once it's final? And maybe also the mods needed to remove the landing gear and cover the underside. Thanks!

Apologies for resurrecting this topic, but now that a lot of us are looking forward to the new UCS Millennium Falcon about to be released, I'm sure many will want to display it with their UCS Slave I. It's been about 2 years since I applied and shared my MOD here, and I am happy to report that my Slave I didn't droop a single bit in that time. All the bricks my MOD were connected to in the cockpit area are still holding strong and show no signs of separation (it was theorized that my MOD would place stress on the bricks and eventually lead to it coming apart). So long story short, I think my MOD was a success and is safe to apply (at least from my experience). @Pariah Was your Slave I built following the official LEGO instructions? If so, perhaps you can try applying the MOD I posted in the first post. It's worked for me so hopefully it does for you too.

Question: I'm building this right now and just finished the 2nd part (outriggers). I wanted to know why the designer opted to use a blue friction axle pin instead of a tan frictionless axle pin for one of the gears for extending the outriggers. Before placing this gear, the outriggers would easily slide in and out. But after adding that single gear with the blue pin, it takes a lot more force to get them to move. I just tried out the motor and while it has no problem pushing the outriggers out, I noticed that the motion is jerky, the white clutch gear slips a lot, and the overall speed of the outriggers are slow. Is this really the right way to do it? What if I replaced that blue axle pin with a tan one?

Hmm, dust had entered my mind, but wasn't sure it would play a big factor. Deformation might also be the culprit. Anyway, thanks for the advice. I'll just wait to get the parts needed for the Ultimate 42009 before I disassemble and rebuild it.

Thanks everyone for your responses. I understand what some are saying about friction in the build, but I made sure that the gears would have enough slack while I was putting it together. Also, I think that if I had built it incorrectly, the performance should have been as bad even from the beginning. But like I said, it used to be able to do these actions better before, but now it's having a harder time even with new batteries and no other changes. In any case, are the motors safe as long as the clutch gears are in place? Even if the gears at the end are barely turning?

I've recently gotten back into collecting Technic. One of the sets I purchased was the 42009 Mobile Crane Mk II less than a month ago. While the L motor has always struggled with the outriggers or lifting the extended boom, right now I'm noticing that it's even slower than I remember it when it was still new. I haven't made any modifications to the functions, everything is as stated in the instructions. At first I thought the batteries were just getting weaker, but I replaced them with fresh ones and the performance hasn't improved. I'm also getting the same experience with my 42042 Crawler Crane. It can no longer raise the extended boom from its lowest position. Again this was always a struggle for it, but it would be able to do it slowly but surely. Now, it can't even do it after installing fresh batteries. So is my motor's performance deteriorating? I've been using the functions occasionally, but never straining the motors as much as possible. Or is there another underlying issue (e.g. The white clutch gears)? Do these start slipping more often after repeated use? Thanks for any replies.